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You racing people all the time? The ratio between your above 20 to below 20 mileages is the same ratio as me, cept the opposite

Alright I had to figure out the workings of my fuel heater. Never looked at it much. I don't know anything about what yours looks like so I wouldn't know. I'll take a good pic tomorrow and we can compare and see how identical they are. I bet there is something different. Dang, sorry bout the mud, melting snow and gravel roads

My Chilton's manual has been dead on for everything so far. All the way down to taking the engine out. I heard about Haynes, can't testify about the claims though, but the rumors were what made me go with Chilton. I can't complain about it at all, yet. Dash is coming out this summer

Remind me to drill and tap those 2 test ports on mine

I think I spent a few months playing with just that very time delay relay I don't see how having pressure would mess up it's starting ability though. Would make it start better if anything, I would think. I wonder if it feeds it so much pressure as to open the overflow and that does something that makes it start worse. Hmmmmm

I guess I can believe cummins doing something like that. Always taking the easy way out. It would be neat if below each gauge there was a digital read out about the same size as the digital odometer on 98+ trucks, and it would tell you exact numbers. Voltage, gallons left, oil psi, water temp, rpm, speed.. Maybe you all can see this on SGII. I can't use one though so I am stuck looking at my gauges. I can always dream though lol.

In 1998 everything went computerized so all you guys are seeing is just an on/off indicator. I don't see how it would move at all unless the computer fools you with readings based on rpm/engine temp. I have never seen mine go anywhere but where it is in the video at 40.. If your gauge does weird things when the foolers are on and off then that just further proves the whole gauge is a fooler. As long as it has pressure, the gauge shows something, though it's not related to the actual pressure. Mine is supposed to actually do something but I guess my sending unit is junk. Dodge wants $65 for it because of the gold plating they put in them. I'd like to know some real numbers on pressures though. Very interesting stuff.

I know the 98+ trucks are idiot gauges and the 97- trucks are supposed to have "real" readings but what exactly are your alls gauges saying? And for those of you with mechanical gauges, what do they say in comparison to stock gauge? I started my truck up and got 90psi at around 800rpm, and 35F engine block. As it warmed up I was seeing lower numbers and after running a few minutes was down in the 70's. As you can see, the gauge in the cab hardly moved, and of course is no where near actual pressures..

I'll bet they had a good one on it and dodge told them their mechanics needed something to work on so they put that one on it instead Just like the silencer ring and various emissions things....

I would bleed it if it were me. I'm sure it will kinda bleed itself eventually but I would rather remove all doubt lol.

You would have to unscrew the poppet valve core to get fuel out of it and you would have to find the same thread. I haven't personally seen the threads though. I wouldn't trust it if the threads were as fine and thin as ones found on wheels.. I would be afraid of it stripping out or just working loose too easily. But, that's just my 2 cents on it...

Hmm, that might work too lol. Wasn't sure how well it will hold that pressure after that 1 second goes by.

This looks to be some good reading about it. http://stamey.info/Truck/Cummins53BlockFAQ.htm

I believe that is misspelled and is a ST50. Very big. Even with the smaller turbo driving it, you would still need some serious fueling to really get it going. I think they used those on the Big Cam Cummins 400.

Sounds like a plan to me. Not sure how you are going to get the pressure but instead of running the engine, just blip the starter and that should kick the lift pump on for 25 seconds, then just turn the key off to turn the pump off, and if it happens to get out of control, at least it will only be 25 seconds of fuel lol.

I didn't think you could get a pressure reading from a fuel line going back to the tank. I would most definitely move it to #1. If your getting normal pressure readings then maybe there is something I don't know about these things and their return system. Wait for someone else to confirm it..

From what I can tell, you need to turn it and the high idle IAT fooler on. I think all the ECT sensor does is tells the 3cyl and high idle when they need to shut off (170F) but doesn't necessarily tell it to high idle, I think the IAT sensor is what tells it to high idle. When the engine is below 140F, then you don't mess with the ECT at all since it will basically be fooling it for no reason (since it fools it to 123F and the engine will be around or less than that temperature anyways). I believe the ECT fooler is only needed when you want to high idle and the engine is above 140F. If it is above that temperature, the high idle has no reason to kick on, regardless of IAT. So to get high idle on a warm engine (140F or above) you turn the ECT fooler on and hit the high idle fooler and then once it is turned on, you can shut both of those off and it will stay high idling until 170F. The engine wants to be at 170F+ but if you start it and its over 140F it knows it thinks it is a waste to high idle so it doesn't. You have to use both foolers so that it thinks it is starting from a cold engine and when you turn the foolers off, it is still on the cold engine cycle, which ends at 170F..

I think you got it all hooked up correctly. From what I can dig up searching and looking at pictures and all anyways lol. If it's hooked into #1 thats the supply line so that would be right. Yeah that pressure doesn't inspire me either

From what I can tell from his writeup, with the IAT fooler off (so it uses actual intake temperature) and the ECT fooler on (being FOOLED it tells the computer it is 123F). So if the computer sees 123F coolant temp yet probably 50F intake temp when running.. Yeah I am not sure. As far as I know, it has to be below 10F or just very cold to get the 3cyl to turn on. I assume you did all 3 switches? The 3cyl IAT fooler, the high idle IAT fooler and te ECT fooler? Are you sure you are hitting the right switch? Let me study his writeup some more.So the ECT fooler tells the engine it is only 123F, which meets one condition for the high idle since it shuts off at 170F, but if the IAT fooler is off, then it sees that 34F+ so I don't think it should turn the high idle on, and especially not the 3 cyl thing. If you have a scan gauge it might help you out. See if it shows the coolant temp being 123F or see what it shows the IAT temp as being. I think you might be hitting the wrong switch.I wonder if the computer senses that the coolant is a constant 123F and says the hell with it and kicks on the 3cyl to try and get that temp gauge to move.. If it takes a couple minutes for it to kick all that stuff on normally I am beginning to think it is time based. :confused:Why are you turning just the ECT fooler on anyways? It's not one of the scenarios he has specified so I don't know what you are trying to do.

You'll love it. The issues with them are very few and far between. The steering can last a very long time, thats about the only thing that routinely wears out that isn't a maintenance item. Keep it all greased up. You planning on getting big power out of it?I forgot all about this other issue, big issue really lol. 24v injection pumps and lift pumps are lubed with the diesel fuel. This new ULSD stuff has next to no lube in it and will kill the lift pump in no time (100k out of them is a record..) and after they go, now the injection pump has no fuel so it has no lube and is just like running an engine with no oil, so it also goes out, this will cost you $1000+ to fix. The solution?, you put an electric lift pump on it to ensure the injection pump always has fuel, you also add a quart of 2 stroke oil to every tank of fuel, or 128:1 ratio (I'm sure you've read all this being THIS site lol). You also get a fuel pressure gauge so you know when your lift pump decides to quit on you so you can fix it before damage is done. Someone else will fill you in on this more, I am a 12V guy

Yeah it appears to be that the 24v's share that problem with the 12v's. It is not very common though so the owner probably didn't do the fix for it. But just because it isn't that common doesn't mean it can't happen, and if you happen to get struck by lightning with it, you could be looking at a new engine, depending on how much damage it does. You must have read about all the stuff it does already lol. Heres more info on that. I guess it's the 2001+ that it wasn't very common on. http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/general/kdp/kdp.htm

You mean the 6th gear stops working? Never heard that on a 6 speed. The 5 speeds have that problem, 5th gear nut comes loose then you lose 5th gear until you tighten that nut back up.I just did a lot of googling and cant find anything about the NV5600 losing 6th. He must have meant the 5spd (NV4500).

Lets see here. The front end! These things are notorious for wearing the front end out rather quickly. You will have considerable play in the steering. See how much play there is to know how soon it will need the front end worked on. You can find out most of the problems if you go start it while it's cold out. Make sure the engine is as cold as it is outside, then try and start it. Should start like a gasser down to 15F. Give it an extra second below that. Below 0F it should start eventually, be weary if it hasn't started trying to start after 2 seconds of cranking.

If these things weren't so good at turning heat into power we wouldn't have this problem! I noticed my brothers powerstroke has no problem getting hot, or getting crappy mileage :lol3:With the cold front off pulling that trailer, I couldn't get it to stop swaying from 175-195, that's the closest range I could get it. Usually it will vary a little less each time, but it was below 30F out and every time the thermostat opened it would give it a huge inrush of that freezing coolant.

Coolant temp should be around 190. I heard 200F is optimal for efficiency though. If you meant intake temps, max efficiency is to get it to at least 100F in the winter, you will find this almost impossible to accomplish. Pulling a trailer you will just have to use your own judgement as to how heavy a trailer it is. Pulling this http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=209 I actually ran cooler without the winter fronts on, a lot cooler actually. So I should have left maybe 2 of them on so I could keep EGT's in check. It's just a war with ambient temps and trailer weight/aerodynamics. That trailer weighs 3500lbs loaded and my ford could barely pull it, yet a flatbed trailer with 4k lbs of scrap metal on it, ford would pull pretty damn good. The ambient temp has a big impact too. If it were under 20F and the trailer wasn't over 5k lbs, I would just leave the front on. Just as an example, it was in the single digits a week ago and I was doing 75 up a hill at 15psi, normally would get me up to 900F or so, I was only at 700F, and that was with the winter fronts on..