ISX

Can you build that?

I don't think someone is going to buy an $8000 machine to make a $100 gun lol. Very impressive though. If CNC stuff was all compatible then theoretically you could make anything on earth by just downloading the file.

Yeah http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/7732-2-000-000th-Cummins I subscribed to this engine labs page and they seem to be the first people that see it and share it. They have a ton of interesting stuff that they post every week. https://www.facebook.com/EngineLabs

That's my edumacated guess.

Yeah it really is amazing to see how much power is lost simply from the connecting rod angle. The rest is kinda boring. I want to make one showing all the pistons since this isn't exactly apples to apples having big cummins pistons vs. v8 ones since they make up for it with 2 more.

I forgot I had a way to calculate engine HP required to turn it. I get 6.87 at 800 RPM. 33% efficiency comes out to 0.407 GPH. I searched the net and found semi trucks are burning twice that at the same RPM. Another guy personally tested it and came up to 0.25 GPH. So I'm just gonna round everything and say 0.3ish.

Is he getting better? Sounds like hes an old school harda$$ so I'm sure he won't let the stroke take advantage of him without a fight.

Yeah I think you found it. You can see in this pic that the hold wire goes through the key and is fed by your faulty relay (not shown).

I made this a few weeks ago and figured I would post it up. Basically this shows some principles at work especially how the connecting rod angles and leverage play a key role in everything. This is only showing the thing compressing and then decomopressing, such as if no fuel was injected. I am not about to try and calculate that These charts assume no boost, 100% volumetric efficiency, 14.7psi atmospheric, 100% sealed off rings, and all the other crap that I don't care to figure out at this point. Took enough time to do with all perfect conditions so I am not going to factor in all this other crap. The goal was to see the effect of the crank to connecting rod angle and stuff and it is clearly seen and very interesting. This is using a 12V compression ratio of 18:1 Ideally I only needed a few charts but I kinda went all out so I'll just post them all. Remember, this is perfect world crap......and this will be obvious in a lot of charts since they are a lot higher than real world tests show. My reference point is 0* TDC. So the cycle starts there and rotates clockwise 360*, so 180* is BDC.. Oh and I have all the specs for every big 3 diesel except the 6.7 cummins. I never found a connecting rod measurement for it. So although I only show 4, I can change them around if someone wants something else. First is piston travel. Obvious as it sounds, it is just the distance the piston moves away from TDC (since that is my reference point). That is why 180* (BDC) is the actual stroke of each engine. Notice it isn't linear...at TDC and BDC there is very little movement in the piston as the throw just pivots the connecting rod but does very little piston movement. Now we have exposed volume. By this I mean the clearance volume (volume above the piston at TDC), plus the volume that the piston exposes as it moves down. Not 0 because there is always clearance volume. Then we have chamber temp. Just as it sounds, it is the temperature of the air in the combustion chamber. From this point on, the degrees have been swapped. The last 2 charts were 0-360 from left to right, now it is 180-180. This is because the peak is now at 0 rather than 180 and I ended up having a split peak on the sides of the graph otherwise which wasn't as nice to look at, so just be aware of that. The IAT was 100F so thats why it starts at that. The 6.0 is the same as the 5.9 because the compression ratios are the same (so the red line is also the cummins). Then we have chamber pressure which is obviously pressure in the combustion chamber. Notice it starts at 14.7psi because this is psia or absolute pressure. For those that don't know, boost gauges and such are gauge pressure, meaning they are zeroed at 14.7, otherwise you would have 14.7psi of boost without the truck even on and its a lot easier to just look at addition pressure rather than start at 14.7 and try and add/subtract. As far as I know, boost gauges measure the difference, so at altitude they won't be reading low or anything. Anyways just something neat. Same as before the 6.0 is the same as the 5.9 compression so red line is also the cummins. Jumping off of pressure in the chamber, you can calculate the actual force exerted on the piston based on the surface area, since after all, it is pounds per square INCH. Remember, this is just force exerted on the piston or basically the wrist pin, don't get ahead of me like some of you might be thinking Oh and the blue and green lines are on top of each other.. So now you're wondering how much force actually makes it to the crank. Well since it will be easier to let you scroll back and forth between the 2 pics if they are on top of each other, I will post is now and explain it after. Alright so you just saw that there is a LOT less force that makes it to the crank, and a weird dip in the middle. How can there be no force in the middle when there is peak force on the piston at that time? Well at TDC the piston has absolutely 0 leverage. The only way it moves is from momentum. All of the force on the piston +/- 10*ish of TDC (or BDC) is pure waste. That is why engine builders aim to get max pressure around 15* since as you can see, that is where the leverage starts to come back and the piston is able to do some actual work. In this next chart I plotted out the actual percentage of power from the piston that actually gets delivered to the crank. Notice that 100% happens around 72* (or 288* coming up on the compression stroke) as that is the point of 90* leverage. You would think that point would be half the stroke but because of the angles that the connecting rod is at, it changes to 72. And just for kicks, here is the actual angle that the crank throw to connecting rod actually is. Again, you can see the 90* optimum point is at 72* crank angle. Here is the spreadsheet if anyone wants to play with it. Cell F1 is a drop down so you can change between 0-360 or 180-180 because of the thing with the first 2 charts. Piston Acceleration 03.xls

My mom keeps texting me these pics and I thought I would share them. The snow is actually this morning Was 85F 2 days ago. The B2 flys around our house all the time, but this time it was really low.

No clue. A lot of my stuff uses MPG.. GPH can then be derived from it but yeah I have no flow meters to go by. AH64 has a map with idle flow I think. You all have scan gauges cant you put it on GPH and watch

I saw his boat in the other thread and that thing is amazing. Anyone who works with that is due all the respect I can offer. Hope he gets better and gets back on the water

The bold text was the password.. Its on the bottom right of this page http://forum.mopar1973man.com/downloads.php

3.55 you will do 60 in O/D with a 5 speed at 1700 ish and with 4.10's it will be 2000ishWith an auto 3.55 will be 1600 ish and 4.10 will be 1800 ish. Ish to account for tire variances.

Same here. I have seen them black and without the rust and they look pretty slick. I know a lot of guys swear by flatbeds and will never go back to a box. 4 wheelers can be loaded from any angle and you have more room. Sacks of whatever you use on the farm you just throw on. But I use mine as a minivan so I'll keep my bed Theres benefits to both. Last year when I went riding for a week at a huge riding area, we loaded the trailer as packed as we could loaded my bed full of firewood and threw a 4 wheeler on top of the firewood. So it has it's place. I think some people have little slots for side rails on flat beds so they could easily get their "bed" back to a point. There is also the look of the truck to figure out which class you're in at the fashion show.

I think you can get some hose and run the heater line in a loop and take the heater core out of the equation. As for the dash, I think its a PITA, I wouldn't do it again. I don't know how Mike has such an easy time but I thought it sucked. Then again he didn't pull the entire dash out so maybe that's easy. Just follow his instructions if you do it, if you are lost CALL HIM! I wouldn't do any guessing with that dash as its all plastic and pulling on it with a screw you missed could mean just breaking the screw hole out.

Yeah the AFC should only be used for fine tuning the preboosted fueling. Once there is boost, that thing should be shoved to the far end and never show it's face again. It should move past the fuel plate so the fueling arm hits the plate meaning your boosted fueling limits are now determined by the fuel plate. That is why you have all these plate contours. A #10 plate eases into the fueling and then eases back out on the top end. A #100 eases in then stays into it. #0 is completely flat for max fueling, though the plate still limits it so people take the plate out completely to get even more.

Ok you say you backed it out to where it was just barely hitting the foot rest, which is the AFC housing if I am thinking about it right (I don't have my AFC here, or anywhere, sold it haha). That means it must be farther forward in stock position. If you moved it back, then it could be holding the fueling arm back a little and causing the hard starts. You can actually take the AFC off, hold the FSS lever up with something and see if it starts right up, that will tell you right then if the AFC is holding something back. There is oil in there but it doesn't really "fling" out unless you rev it up, and even then its just some drops. I have watched mine a ton of times. Just make sure nothing like a hose clamp falls in there haha. But I am betting that is what's happening..

Where is this "fuel screw"? I know of several screws all over the pump so I want to know which one. As for the AFC controlling boost, that isn't the intent of it. It is only there as a way to hold back the fueling arm until enough boost is built to allow for more fueling so that it doesn't smoke out the intersection. That means it limits fueling until the turbo builds at least 5psi. I set my starwheel full forward so it sets the tension very low so it moves at more like 3psi and might be fully out of the way at 5-7psi. Never really tested it. But thats the principle of it. The fuel PLATE is what limits the top end, and therefore the boost you're capable of. If you are using the AFC to limit boost, then you aren't using the fuel plate at all..

Can you explain that in more detail? Also the AFC moves at like 5psi so why did you use 65psi?

That capability is a little ahead of us yet. As for why it is locked, this forum isn't huge and doesn't have all the ads that pay for server use on big forums. Those files are big and tons of people want it so it would kill this forums bandwidth in no time. Because this forum's intent is to interact and share info, we ask for you to scratch our backs in this respect and we scratch yours by sharing all those files. If we had more money we could unlock it all, simple as that. But the experience of being bloated with ads is not worth it. But we are a cooperative group and if it is apparent you are helping then we do bump you to standard member. You should be able to download them now

It's on the sidebar on the downloads page. It's mopar1973man.com

Ok soooo based on engine load and RPM??

What is the rail pressure based on and which way does it go according to the factors? If it uses timing does it go up as timing advances?....