ISX

You posted about the truck deal 5 days ago, so what surgery did you have 4 weeks ago? Is your leg alright?

Seems to be some confusion around other parts of the interweb so I will go into full blown detail and end it all. Diesels technically need an air to fuel ratio (A/F) of only 14.5:1 to have enough to burn all the diesel, however, in practice this ratio needs to be around 18-24:1. Even higher ratios are sometimes needed to stomp the EGT back down where it belongs. But the misconception is that boost is everything and nothing else matters. Although I said 18-24:1, I will use 18 for this entire article to keep from writing the entire 18-24 bit. Just remember that this is only for an example as ratios over 18 are needed quite often. Using 18 parts air, we are left with 1 part fuel. Thing is, the air does not mean a volume of air or pressure of air per say, but is a matter of molecules. It means 18 molecules of air for every 1 molecule of fuel. With this ratio, our engines can only support 129HP if there was no turbo. That is at 80% Volumetric Efficiency (VE),80F, and 2600RPM. This is because at a given pressure and temperature, there is only so many molecules of air that can fit into a given space (or volume). It is the same as putting balls in a jar, only so many will go in before the jar is full. With the given amount in there, the 1 part fuel that is allowed for every 18 parts air is only enough fuel to create 129HP. But my engine is rated at 215HP so now what! 215HP requires almost twice the number of air molecules as it takes to support 129HP. The magic happens because air is compressible. In school you learned that solids are packed very tightly, liquids are loose, and air is very loose and just drifts around. By shoving the air together, you can pack more of them into the same area. With enough force, you pack them so tight that it is the tightness of a liquid and will phase change (if heat is also released) but that takes way more pressure than we can get with our trucks. Anyhow,this force is boost. With more boost, you pack the molecules in tighter so you can get more into the same area. To make 215HP, I need 9.8psi of boost to cram in the number of air molecules needed to support the 18:1 ratio. The number of molecules within a given volume is called the density, and that is the key to it all. However, boost is not the only factor. Temperature also has an effect. As I said before, you can compress the air so that the molecules are shoved closer together so you can make room for more molecules. Temperature changes change the size of molecules. Hotter air makes them bigger, colder air makes the smaller. That means if the air is cold, then you don't have to compress the molecules as much because they are already taking up less space because they are smaller, therefore, you need less boost to get the same number of air molecules in there. The 9.8psi figure earlier was at 80F, but at 0F I only need 6.2psi. So temperature has a big effect as well, but it is important to remember that this is intake temp (IAT). The intercooler does a very good job so varying the turbo intake temp with cold air intakes and such does not have as drastic an effect on IAT, though the turbo would be a little more efficient since the air it is pumping is denser, but that is debatable and not the topic of this article. We are then left with volumetric efficiency which is how well the air can actually get into the combustion chamber. Low temps and high boost equating to the support for high power does nothing if you can't get it where it needs to be. This is why 24V's have a higher volumetric efficiency. More valves allow for more area to let the air in, so a 12V might have a VE of 80% whereas a 24V might be 90% or something. Porting and polishing also helps as a rough surface hinders good flow. The intake manifold can also pose an issue during high load/power conditions because pistons 1 an 6 are way off to the side of it so the air has to slam into the bottom of the manifold then wander over to the far ends of the manifolds, therefore, 1 and 6 have a less VE than 3 and 4, which is also one reason 1 and 6 run hotter since the fueling is the same to all cylinders but with less VE on 1 and 6 they end up with a richer burn. Turbo drive pressure also has an effect which is directly linked to turbine efficiency. If the drive pressure is much higher than boost pressure, then scavenging during valve overlap is hindered. It is possible to get lower drive pressure than boost pressure with a turbo that is efficient. So there you have it, number of air molecules is key. Though comparing equal molecules of air with different IAT meaning less boost when colder, gives you much higher pressure and temperature at TDC for the hotter IAT/higher boost compared to the colder/less boost scenario. I am going to figure out the exact pros and cons of both. I did read an article this morning done at some testing center with everything the same except varying IAT and at low load colder air proved to have better efficiency. However, at part load higher IAT's had better efficiency. They didn't do a test for full load. But this is interesting and adds another layer of thought to this article which I will research some more and add to this article when I figure it out.

Could you take a big fine threaded tap and tap that hole and put a plug in it and ditch the fuel heater? I've never read a word of praise about the fuel heater.

I looked at their schedule and found out in june they are racing 20 miles south of where I go fishing so I am gonna go see this 500ft roost for myself

Yeah that's hard to top

I was more just giving a response to W&F saying "what has our society decayed to" and showing how people are fully capable of doing the right thing. Just wish it lasted more than one day a year. Although Monday we are gonna get a blizzard again so everyone may very well become good citizens once again.

Dorkweed, they run the 200mph boats at lake of the ozarks every summer but you can't see anything without a boat and the last time I went they had cracked down on all the secret cliffs I had been finding. I would love to ride with one of them. I found some more pics of it. It uses 2 props. It said these were after it got into some sand.

We had a snowstorm yesterday and it dumped a foot on us and I think it's very interesting how everyone basically ditches the rulebook and helps each other get their cars moving. Everyone drives slow, if someone stops in the middle of the road then people offer help. There isn't any crime because everyone is outside helping each other in their time of need. Stop signs become a suggestion and we resort to common sense instead. Everyone is so much better on days when they have nothing to gain (since they can't go anywhere). Very odd how the everyday (dry weather) life is so very different. Rules are enforced, common sense is thrown out the window, people get mad at each other over anything, and heaven forbidddddd anyone goes outside and is friendly to anyone. I pulled 2 people out and dug 4 others out along with plowing a mile of road with the tractor since the city was working on major highways. I went to pizza hut and watched 4 people across the street all in different vehicles, get out and help someone in a car who was in drift. They had shovels, salt, everything to help out. It's just so weird that in a time when nobody can go to work or go shopping, everyone changes for the best, but when everything is perfect (roads are fine, weather is fine), people hate each other and crime goes out of control.

I roll the window down a few inches any time I am running back and forth between the truck. Been locked out too many times.

Man if I knew it was that simple I woulda done it already. My dad goes through tons of those at work, I'm sure of it, even electrically operated ones. You could get one that is normally closed so it needs power to release, much like how air brakes are set up. Would be neat if I could get my e brake to do the same thing as the brake pedal though. Maybe I can.

I've ran the numbers and had a temperature probe on the air filter and the highest I saw on a hill pulling the trailer at 100F was 20 over (120F). After plugging in all the numbers, you end up with a 0.5% gain in air mass in the cylinder when compared with what a cold air intake would provide (100F air). As a reference, 0F - 100F ambient changes air mass by 21%... In other words, because of the intercooler, the cold air intake and heat shield stuff is null and void. You will never notice a 0.5% increase plus that is only under high load conditions, most of the time I was only seeing a 10-15F rise and in the winter I saw almost no rise over ambient. Even if the temp was 50F over ambient, it's still only 1.5% more air mass. It's all because of the intercooler. I know a lot of guys run heat shields and stuff and I'm not trying to say they are bad I'm just throwing the numbers out there. There could be something to how much boost is produced with hot air vs. colder air within the turbo. But turbo efficiency has more to do with it than anything IMO.

I need to head that way anyways lol Yeah our tractor has the same thing where you pull a knob while it starts clicking as you step on it, then you step on it and push the knob in to release. Might have to look into that. Is that the one that has a disc brake on the driveshaft itself? I saw a super duty like that, pretty neat.

Ya know, you can speed those way up not much of a time lapse at this rate lol.

Ya know, I have never had a parking brake that worked worth a crap. Is there some sort of aftermarket thing that uses the brake hydraulics instead? I know the ebrake is for reliability but ive never had them work even on my jeep. I took the drum off and the ebrake stuff fell on the floor in pieces. So I laughed and put the drum back on. But the hydraulic brakes seem much more reliable for short term (running) applications such as this. I mean if the brakes dont work then the truck woulda rolled down the hill either way. So is there such a thing or do I have to invent it?

I think its this. http://www.enginelabs.com/news/true-story-behind-massive-engine-in-facebook-page-photo/

Wonder if they use 15w40

It's all about use. My truck was a hot shotter for who knows how many 100k miles so the thing almost sits on the overloads with no load at all. The air bags jacked it back where it's supposed to be and mannnnn it rides nice. I'd ditch the overloads altogether but it never touchs them so I just leave them for backup reasons (if the bags screw up). So far the bags are incredibly constant. I never have to touch them.

According to this 35psi is indeed past the right side of the map, but only above about 2500RPM. At 30psi you can get away with about 3000RPM. This is using 100F ambient temps, colder temps actually put it even farther to the right of the choke line. When you go past the map to the right (last line being the choke line), it is defined as efficiency going under 58% and the turbo having to spin a lot faster for little gain and it basically is overspeeding. If I put in a stock value of 22psi per say, it is actually well suited at 3000RPM. The sweet spot seems to be around 17psi and 2200RPM. Now there is a range of values so I just picked a spot and aimed for it. Basically the thing is set up stock, for towing. It has lag down low but towing it is perfect. Running 35psi is not good on it and to keep it within its design limits it needs to well, basically stay wastegated. Since we can outfuel the wastegate up to 30psi+, the wastegate needs modifications so it will keep it around <25psi. Thing is, more boost is how we cool these things off at higher power levels. I am not about to backtrack to make the turbo happy.. But, there are turbos with broader power curves that would be much better suited for the task that would also be happy with the high power runs (towing up steep hills or something, with a turned up truck). The stock one is perfectly matched to the engine at stock power levels.

No clue. Still makes one wonder. I'm reading about turbos and it seems when they go out of their range they have to spin very fast to get any more boost. We like to say this point is 35psi, but I'm not so sure. Still reading, still looking, still learning. Need to find an official HX35 map, rather than these home drawn ones.

I found this pdf by garrett and although our turbos aren't water cooled, it does teach you a lot. http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/sites/default/files/Garrett_White_Paper_01_Water_Cooling.pdf On the 5th to last page they show an oil slinger groove, one that was fine and one that was overheated. Mine looked just like the overheated one yet this was before I had ever ran over 35psi. Before I had it, it was a completely stock hotshotter truck. I always let it idle a long time if I had ran it hard and turned it off at 300F. Soo...what gives! What do you guys think caused it? Is 35psi actually too much for an HX35? We know they are all wastegated to 20ish so 35 is pretty far past that.. Also found this, kinda interesting. http://www.dieselpowermag.com/tech/dodge/1209dp_the_worlds_biggest_turbo_test/viewall.html Here's pics of the original shaft I took out (before the mill had its way with it lol)

I think you guys might find this neat. Basically you enter all but the g/kWh initially, based on your data plate. For instance, my engine says 215hp, 2600RPM, 103mm3... The spreadsheet is saved with my specs so you can see where they are. The fuel density should be left alone as thats the average density of diesel fuel, though I have it unlocked if you happen to know something about your fuel that I don't. You can see it calculates the g/kWh...This is the engine efficiency! Once you know it, copy 3 or 4 decimal places worth into the cell next to it. Once that is done, you can mess with all the rest and treat the g/kWh and fuel density as static variables. I added the MPG and MPH for the heck of it so you can see what you would be getting. There isn't much error checking on this as I'm busy with other crap so just use a little common sense as in don't leave more than one variable blank and don't fill them all in. I'll try and build it in later. If you are just wanting to mess with it (without looking at your data plate) just put 250 in for g/kWh as that is about the average of all the trucks. Oh and password to unlock is dodge as usual. Engine Efficiency.xls

18-24"!!! Danggg Russ. Even says 2-3 inches an hour. Get a pic of that crap coming out the sky like an avalance.

Yeah I'm still not sure if it was my valves or the new turbine/shaft that made my boost a lot better, but as I messed with the valves it pointed more and more to the shaft. My brother said he cleaned the shaft of a 6.0 and it was much better after. This tells me the shafts should be pulled and cleaned every 100k or so. It would be interesting to see if synthetic oil makes a difference with it since the coking is the issue. It builds up a very small amount but a small amount in an already tight tolerance does make it tighter and slower. At least from my experience anyways. I may pull mine again and see how it's holding up. And yes this is all just theories on my part but it was a very noticeable spool up gain.

Can you expand with all that you know about that smaller hole? Mine does not have it, I just have the hole in the bottom leading to the 2 opposing holes that flow through the banjo fitting.