ISX

Not sure then. I'd take the one out of the P7100 and compare the threads with it and everything.. Lots of fuel will dump out and you'll have to reprime it.

Calipers will work..And IF it is the same style fuel filter housing (think thats where you have the Vp44 fuel pressure thinger) then I would think it would work. The 96-maybe 2001 fuel filter housings are the same. But the 24V has the test ports bored out whereas the 12v's just have the casting.

I'll think of something lol do you have anything accurate at all? Calipers...I even have a ruler with 100ths of an inch on it.

Hmmmm, you can do the drop valve method of finding TDC if you have a dial indicator. But if you don't have the flywheel gear whatchamacallit then I wouldn't suggest it. Engine moves wayyy too much with the alternator nut. You could use the timing gear pin but that things the biggest PITA ever and I'll be damned if I am going to advise anyone else to use it. Hmmmmm one very interesting thing to do would be for me (since I know absolute TDC) to set my valves at 10/20 then measure the distance down or up that it takes before the engine gets to TDC. I would think all cams in these are the same so I would think it would work. Question is, do you have a dial indicator haha. I guess you could lay a straight edge on the adjacent valve cover and get a measuring tape and measure down

Too HOT! Thats 500F post turbo at only 40mph with 4.10's...........that damn thing should be freezing, not boiling. Do you know how to confirm stock timing with that timing tab thinger in the injection pump?

Think sledwrecker is onto something. I did find this while running around, might spark some more thoughts.

The pressure the engine puts out to drive the turbo. Think of putting a boost gauge where the EGT probe is.. From what you read in the post before your's, the back pressure is created by the turbo. After all, with no turbo and a free flowing exhaust, the engine has no real back pressure. Put a turbo there for the engine to drive and then the engine has "pressure" against it, so it has to actually work to push the exhaust gases out and this is seen as pressure because of the restriction of the turbo and having to drive the turbo. Known as back pressure on the engine or drive pressure for the turbo.

The only thing I can think of is bad fuel pressure, along with other things. The P7100 will actually suck in fuel on it's own, I talk to a guy who has started it with his raptor turned off. I'm sure not as much fuel gets into the plungers but it does run. But the "other things" I mean is dirty injectors, timing is off, etc.. I just can't see 8 damn MPG out of any one thing, though the guys on CF seem to pull it off haha. In other words, I have a pop tester, compression tester, can clean injectors, can set the timing, can test fuel pressure, and check other crap on the engine....but if it's beyond that (in the transmission or something) then it's beyond me.. I've spent my whole time with the engine on my truck so besides the 5th gear nut, brakes, u joints...I can't say which stuff beyond the engine would cause it, other than the common brake drag thing. I will say this though, it does sound like something in the engine haha. Possibly just a bad overflow valve causing the low fuel pressure which is why you have to give it more fuel to get anywhere. The EGT's are high because it retards the timing when it does this. Basically at say, idle, the whole thing is full of fuel, as the plunger goes up it covers the spill port for a second and injects some fuel then the spill port is uncovered and the rest of the fuel above the plunger gets shoved down the vertical slot and forced out of the spill port. When it comes back down, it fills back up until the spill port is covered for that second again and forms a void (vacuum air pocket thinger) above the plunger. But it's a small void equal to the amount of fuel injected since the spill port is covered for the same duration during the upstroke and downstroke (if throttle remains the same). So the plunger forms the void but keeps going down and then uncovers the spill port again so the spill port can then fill up the void as the plunger waits for it's turn to inject fuel. SOO!!! IFFFFFF that void ISN'T able to be filled by the spill port for whatever reason (low fuel pressure, too small of spill port hole, etc.) then what happens? The plunger goes up, covers the spill port, but then instead of injecting fuel, it just compresses the void back into nothing until the fuel fills the gap, meaning injection is late, also known as retarded... Retarded timing has NO top end. Maybe you saw my video of 0* timing, it wouldn't even run past 1500 (maybe it would if I let it warm up, but the point got across). It also means you have to be farther down on the pedal to get it to the same "power" as before, since a void of fuel obviously has en effect on power...you need fuel to make power.. So at WOT you might be the same as 1/2 throttle on a truck with good fuel pressure.You can be really cheap about it and just unscrew the bleed screw and screw a hose fitting in there and to your gauge and even a needle valve. Then just rev it up and see what happens. If it is under 25psi at like 2000RPM then you got a problem. Though it sounds to be more like it's running at under 20psi. If you do have that issue, you can take some pliers and clamp the return line when it goes to a rubber hose past the back of the injection pump. You don't close it off, just apply pressure and see if you can get fuel pressure out of it. Aim to see 35psi at least. If you are able to completely clamp it off and still nothing, then the lift pump is junk. Basically you are doing the overflow valves job for it. The springs in them get weak routinely. MAKE SURE you use something to round the edges of whatever you clamp the hose with...you wouldn't want to cut the fuel line up with the sharp edge of some pliers. I use those vice grips, 11R's or whatever, they have rounded over ends. Or I'll come fix the thing haha

According to this http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/89-93-tech-articles/25484-egts-pre-post-turbo.html that means your EGT's are pretty damn high. Basically the temps you see are what I see pre turbo.. However, everything else you mention is completely normal. This 8mpg thing though....was that unloaded driving? If you just doing stop and go and it's always under operating temp then that will have a big effect, though not 8mpg big What do you get pulling the trailer on the highway?

Yeah I've been waiting for his solution... I look at all the crap on youtube and he seems to have completely erased everything. Busy appointing new defense secretaries, CIA directors, saying how great it is that we are done with the iraq war. Just watched the whole video on the secretary of defense and the CIA guy. And IIIIIII think the CIA guy John Brennan should be president, cause he looks like a hard@$$ I can see him walk into congress with everyone bickering, "Everyone just shut up" and then he would eye whoever mumbles anything. Then he would say this is how it's gonna be... Then everything would be solved.

Do you have any gauges on it at all? Boost and EGT would help a lot haha. Maybe even fuel pressure.

Jeessuss! You sure it's not the tranny? If it locks up then I guess I couldn't imagine 8mpg. Does it smoke or start bad or anything at all? Gauge readings?

Whats the problem lol. I have you and this other guy who want me to stare at their engines but I am broke (college) and yeah it comes up to $300 round trip for gas (same for him almost, ironically enough).. A shop would set your timing for half that. Well, unless it was the shop that I went to and paid half that and all they did was loosen the nut and kick the engine then tighten it. I can show you how to do that easily

I got wayyyyyyyyyy more information than just that hahaha. I gotta read through the other 1000 pages.

I had a guy around here call me one time about his truck not starting and his batteries were brand new. All it took was a little corrosion under the positive drivers side terminal and it was dead. Lights under the hood wouldn't even come on half the time. There wasn't that much corrosion but apparently my definition of "that much" is way off. So if anything you might try cleaning them. And I could NOT see any corrosion until I took the terminal off.. Put something on them like the engine oil thing mike does. Not saying this is the problem but my truck sits months at a time with one battery thats 10 years old and leaking corrosion and it still starts. I'm not sure if theres an amp draw difference between a 12 and 24v as it sits there but from what I've experienced, its not significant enough after 6 months. The batteries are lower but doesn't seem they get low enough to care. If it was to sit over 6 months then I would consider pulling that IOD fuse. Anyhow, just something to maybe check

Hmmmm, wonder if whoever tested that is the same one giving all this other inconsistent data I keep finding lol. I'm gonna win the lottery and start buying my own test equipment. Fix the world's data consistency issues

You're telling me those trucks just have a regular turbo with a 9cm tiny housing?

I thought those were variable so they wouldn't really need any kind of fancy pulsations?

Alright got anotherrr bosch book which included a chart of every injection pump they made and the 12000psi of the p7100 just said p series which includes smaller pumps so according to everything in the books that specifically mention it, its 17,400psi. The VP44 is 21,755psi, the higher pressure one I mentioned before was a passenger car one rated for 4500RPM.

I'm going to say this last round with the bosch book is the correct figures. It is extremely detailed so I'm sure it will explain why. Also found out the VP44 has a 40* timing range and even has an optional pre injection like the CR's. Not sure if it's enabled on the dodges or not but says it's an option.

Bosch book I got out of the college library says P7100 is 12,328 PSI, which is of course different from everything listed above. Says the VP44 is 28,282 PSI. CP3 is 23,206 PSI and apparently they make an oil lubricated one called the CP3.4 "used in only heavy duty trucks"

Figured it out. They are split off because of a thing called pulse turbocharging which uses the kinetic energy of the pressure pulsations caused by the expulsion of the exhaust gas from the cylinder. It achieves higher torque at lower engine speeds. This is why the exhaust manifold is split into the front 3 and back 3 and why my turbo was split as well. So no clue why the HY isn't split. I didn't notice much of a difference if any but I guess the principle is there

You woulda $* if your wife screamed and you saw that red trail in front of your truck

I redid allll of my wires, so hes poking fun at it....lol I have the jeep for winter so I only start the dodge once every few months to keep it happy.

Not much discrepancy with that. Seems the more common things (SO, all the 12 valves) get grapevined like crazy. Most of those things are from very reputable sources, and they are all completely different.