ISX

Well I'll throw something out there to rock your world. MAN diesel (the biggest diesel company out there and the company that rudolph himself worked with) created a diesel said to be the most efficient in its class. What it did was had some sort of dual stage turbo that created incredibly high boost (80psi) and well those big engines always end up in some static RPM application, so it was designed to be running WOT at this 80psi. The reason for this high boost pressure was to get the air in the combustion chamber as fast as possible because they had the valve lash set so loose that the valves would barely open, meaning there was less power lost by a valve opening. For example, the exhaust valve opens nearing the end of the power stroke, but not after, so some power is lost, not much I'm sure, but some. Then you have the intake valve staying open into the compression stroke, so the air doesn't get compressed as much. So they said if we had a ton of boost, we could make the exhaust valve open later and the intake valve close sooner since the boost would drive the exhaust out quicker and replenish the combustion chamber with fresh air faster. I will have to find the article and more details on it but that was the gist of it.

The 1st gens had all sorts of exhaust housing sizes on them, from 12 to 21. They sure didn't have the power to push a 21 and only the later ones finally got down to 12 like they have been ever since. The 2nd gens have all been 12cm from 94-02. Except for the HY turbos.

So you're saying your calculator is a guess.. We need a genset with all the sensors and crap on it to test everything to get exact figures. I can get pretty exact readings on all of that except cetane, ignition delay, and cylinder pressure. I know there is a lot more to it than just that. So again, genset with dynamic timing p7100 (they did make those) and then a fuel rate thing and see which timing has the lowest fuel rate for a number of loads/rpms. I've been wanting to do that so bad for years. I think you mean in stock form on the boost and yes it is wastegated at 23ish and the lower HP ones were more like 18-20. I have a thread on some forum (no clue as I once ran around on a bunch) and I actually tracked the mm3 of all the different pumps even the VP44 ones. There are a lot of them with the same number but different HP ratings. This even applied to the 12V with the same stock timings. The injector sizes are all different though so I guess even though the pump could do whatever mm3/stroke, the injector could only get so much out.

24VTurbo, here is how you get miles per US gallon (what everyone on here uses). Take km/L then multiply by 2.3521. So earlier in this thread you said you had 103km on 14.98L. So you take 103 / 14.98 = 6.8758, this is your km per litre....so you get 6.8758 km/L. But we use miles per gallon so you take that number and multiply it by 2.3521 and get 16.17 MPG.Got it? Km / L = SomethingSomething x 2.3521 = MPG

I think I can figure out how long the injector is open. Yes timing is set where you spend the most time but we have NOTHING to go by. 13-16 is good but I want exact numbers. Shouldn't be a guessing game. I know being static that you just have to set it somewhere close but still, this guessing game is a bunch of crap. Basically I can measure the distance the plunger goes up and the distance it is actually pressurizing and then do a bunch of fancy math to calculate the time it takes to push all that fuel in using the profile of the cam in the pump. It might not be the exact duration that the injector is firing but I think it would be close [enough]. Actually timing on mine is retarded at high load. It has these retarding notches in the plunger to get more fuel in at the cost of timing which supposedly retards it 2*. I need to test it to see exactly how much. It is only on the 215 pumps.

Well heres my dilemma... Nobody can tell anyone what the timing should be on a given 12V. People say 16 for mileage and not to go over 18 or you'll blow a head gasket. I am not too sure about either one of those things... I ran advanced timing though someone set it wayyyy back when I didn't know anything I guess 3 years ago and they just assumed it was at the stock timing and popped the pump gear off and turned the engine a few degrees then put it all back together and charged me $150. The guy sure didn't confirm anything so it could have been at 20* for all I know. When he was done, it knocked (not as bad as a 24V) and had a lot of top end power, so I was happy. I didn't know the difference as to what he had done so how could I not be happy, it had power. However, it started like crap and after talking with everyone on CF they told me that was not a characteristic of being advanced to 16, but rather a 20*+ characteristic. This thing was starting at 50F as if it were -40F out. Then I figured everything out myself and set it back to stock. The starting problem was solved but the low end power was ungodly. I couldn't believe how much I had lost. But alas, I had set it by doing some shadetree instructions on CF and when I set it again based on the injection pump pin, it was at 2* ATDC.... So I set it back to stock though I used the valve overlap to guesstimate TDC, but this appeared to get me pretty close. Then I finally figured out the valve drop absolute TDC thing and the spill port timing thing and it was pretty close to stock value IIRC, this time I set it right at 13.5* (which is the stock value actually) and I think it runs perfect. So, back to the dilemma.... Actually you tell me what you need and if it's even possible to do this. I know injector nozzle sizes, plunger sizes, delivery valve sizes...Hell I have an entire P7100 on my desk. I don't want to burden you so if it's an issue then don't worry about it. But if it's even possible, I think you could get a formula and then make an excel such as this. This would help the whole world since people with 4.10's and 3.55's are both following the same 16* rule even though they are 500RPM apart at the same speed and load is different too. I for one never get over 2000RPM much. Thing is there just isn't anything more than a seat of pants to tell us where to set timing.. Being static makes it worse since guys who run 3000RPM all day can't run that kind of timing since then it will start like crap. In the summer it wouldn't really make a difference and with the trailer I run at 70mph since it's always interstate and that's 2100RPM. The RPM is so high that you can just set the cruise and let it do whatever it wants and EGT is never an issue up any hill you have. But I run 1800 without it, so it would be nice to see where it needs to be in both instances. http://www.mopar1973man.com//isx97/Truck%20Stuff/Ryan's%20Dodge/Engine%20Pull/IMG_0430.JPG

Where are you getting your figures for optimal timing vs RPM vs load? What is the optimal timing for 1700RPM 5-10% load?

I'm gonna have to debate the older/lighter thing. They are the same trucks from 94-02... I know they upgraded a little and you can say the engine is heavier, interior might be heavier, but come on, we are talking maybe 500lb difference if I exaggerate it like crazy.. I put 500lbs worth of engine blocks in the bed of my truck all winter and don't see a difference in mileage. These things aren't like gassers that get half the mileage per 1000lbs extra. They hardly notice weight at all. Dorkweed I think said he got 18 pulling his trailer and gets I think 22 unloaded so that just proves my point even more. 12 more valves do not add enough weight to drop a couple MPG's... Another thing I notice is how much you have to baby a 24V to get over 20mpg, I beat the hell out of mine and can't get UNDER 20 unloaded. The timing is all good but, it's like it's set up for the wrong parameters all the time. I am sure it has to do with emissions as usual, but it's emissions and JUST emissions, nothing else is a factor IMO. Now there is the issue that people come up with from winter fuel burning faster. I can see that, but, colder air in and hotter air out is the formula for efficiency. I believe the cold air makes up for the theoretical fuel energy and therefore keeps mileage consistent throughout the year. Winter fuel in the summer I would think would drop a mpg. Summer fuel in the winter would gain you a mpg over your usual summer mileage. I only think this because I didn't put winter fronts on one year and it got to -10F and I had to get on the interstate and the thing made 5psi more boost and was an absolute bat out of hell. I haven't touched winter fronts since and see no difference other than more power. The thermostat controls the engine temp, not winter fronts.. Now another thing is that the 24V actually produces more particulate matter than the 12V according to the engine label. The focus was Nox so the 24V is lower there but I think they did it with timing, making it really advanced and that is why they aren't as efficient, they are overly advanced. We already went over this though but the whole deal revolves around emissions. Thing is, ppumped 24valves get the same mileage as the vp, if not worse, so I have almost wondered if the block itself has issues with efficiency, though I think it's identical to a 12valve block besides the head, so is it the head thats inefficient? Who knows. I'm just saying there seems to be a lot of interesting variables, emissions being the major one but sometimes I wonder if reprogramming the VP so that it's at max efficiency rather than for emissions, would actually get it up to 12v efficiency, because obviously a ppump on a 24v doesn't fix it, so what else could be the issue..

I think you are right. The whole IAT fooler idea came about when me and Mike were talking about the differences between our trucks. I have static timing (I think thats what you meant when you said dynamic) and so it's always at the same timing. This has drawbacks on paper, but in real life I am getting incredible mileage as are other 12 valve guys. Now this is kinda shrugged off for some reason but I noticed in the winter, my mileage was still high. The temps went all the way to -10F here and I never added any sort of antigel so it's not like this wasn't winter fuel as everyone blames their crappy mileage on. So me and Mike started thinking...cause his mileage goes down in the winter as does everyone else's apparently with a 24V (never really read anything about other 12V guys) so I thought about the differences. And if you think about it, in the winter there really is only ONE thing different between summer and winter driving. The boost is roughly the same, ECT gets to the same 190F.....but the IAT, that damn IAT.....changes. So I said fool that thing like you do with the cold idle thing, except backwards, make it think its summer and see what happens, because I see no mileage drop... and low and behold, no more mileage drop. Now this also stemmed from him telling me that when he starts it in the morning when it's freezing, that it sounds like a bunch of ball peen hammers. But to me, even when warmed up those things sound like ball peen hammers lol. So I had the thought that all this talk about advancing them had accumulated and now you had a truck thats 20* advanced, though compared to a 12V at 20* it sounds even more advanced. So if you fool it in the winter to make it think it's hot, then the overly advanced stuff stops and it goes back into normal timing mode that its in during the summer. It might be more for emissions even, but if we can fool it then why not. It's not like there aren't 12valves running retarded timing for millions of miles.

I spent the last 2 hours reading and youtubing them. Very interesting and it's nice to see the level of respect they give to them. If anyone even touches the area inside the chain, the guard does the port arms thing and yells at them, though it's a command rather than just screaming at them, very professional, very serious. I read about some kids messing with them and after they stepped in the area 3 times the guard loaded the gun and pointed it at them and said "stay out of the area" again, they didn't do it again lol. Nobody in the audience can sit while changing guards either, or they get yelled at. I like this discipline. Those guys died and we don't even know who they are so I would chew the audience out for anything and everything. I like how the guards are serious (as previous example showed) because you should only be able to show so much disrespect before you hit your limit. I never actually knew anything about this...glad I do now.

Guess that was my fault, sorry. Caj is the only one on this site that does it that I know of, as others have stated, though I read about several on cumminsforum. It seems to be a flakey market unless you already have your foot in the door, I think a lot of guys have filled the empty holes during the crappy economy, though I could be wrong. I think if you get enough business going (foot in the door) then it could give you a decent salary, but again, I think you gotta get a reputation going, or get on shipping wars. I'm sure there are fees and things since every state is different. Definitely a chauffers license, not sure about CDL, maybe in some states. I think the initial cost might be a bit.. I'll take IT over driving my truck, rather work on it. Maybe this will help, though getting Caj in on this would probably be better. http://voices.yahoo.com/how-succeed-hot-shot-trucking-1052889.html

It will work now.. New members can't download until they get enough posts racked up. I bumped you to a standard member so you can download it now

There is a guy on the site named cajflynn and he rolled over a million miles recently on his 53 block hot shotter.. I think the 53 block issue is because of hot RODDERS. Obviously it seems to be weaker but I am not sure it's an issue if you don't beat the crap out of it. There are a lot of facts floating around the internet that stem from things that break even though those things are running 5000RPM and they have 2 injection pumps and might as well have drilled the injector out... I'm not saying the 53 block is that way but cajflynn pulls boats every day for a million miles now and his block is fine because he doesn't hot rod it.

If you need the truck then why not. I would replace them with the spring ones when they come in the mail though. They should hold to at least 45psi. I only had one blow off at 35psi because the bolt had stripped out from me impacting it on and off 20 times a day.

Eh I guess that's the easy way to do it. I've done hundreds with a hammer/socket/vise. No problems yet. It is an art though. You don't just hit it anywhere. Definitely not this blunt force and ignorance crap. I realize that's how everyone else goes at it but there is always an easier way to do anything, it just takes skill. Skill can replace machines, but some things take a lot more skill than anyone cares to learn. I did learn all of the driveshaft stuff from a guy who probably learned from his mistakes for several decades. I'm just saying it can be done.....if you bring it to me lol.

I swear everything on my truck is an 8 or 10 or 13mm. Maybe it was 12. I can't remember, haven't touched it in months It would make my day if someone just brought me a truck with everything under the hood completely screwed up. Better yet, take everything out from under the hood and dissect it as much as possible. Bring me the truck, bring me the pile of parts

A hammer and an impact socket..

I don't want to discourage you but I think driving is even worse than sitting at a desk.. You can't sit back and relax while you're driving, you have to pay attention. I mean your sitting staring at a computer or staring out a windshield.. How about we both tag team it and fix everyones trucks lol.

I really don't have any plans. Slide the temp from blue to red

Another concern is if the cardboard isn't centered and the fan kicks in, it will be blocked on one side and have flow on the other causing an imbalance and can eventually break off into your radiator. So if you do it (or anyone, someone will try it lol) just make sure it's centered using the fan as the midpoint.

Is this on a 52 as in not a cummins? In any case, this will work as long as you know the running mates. I am not quite sure what you mean. If you are going the normal rotation, then the exhaust will open first. For instance, on the cummins the firing order is 153624, so if you rotated the engine normal direction (clockwise from the front), until the exhaust valve opened on #1, then you would keep going slowly until the intake opened on #1, at which time the exhaust valve would be closing. The exhaust valve closes as the intake valve opens..this is called valve overlap. This is TDC exhaust/intake for #1, so it's running mate (#6) would be on compression/power, so the valves would be completely shut so you can adjust the intake and exhaust on #6. Once you are done, you would crank the engine over 120 degrees and since the next piston in the firing order is 5 (153624), the valves on 5 would be the next ones to open and overlap.. That should be 120 degrees from where you were just at when you set #6 by watching #1. So the valves on 5 will overlap and you stop during overlap and then you can do it's running mate #2, which is on TDC compression power, so you do both valves on #2. Then crank another 120* watching piston 3, when it is on overlap you can set 4. Then crank another 120 watching 6 so you can adjust 1. Then 120 watching 2 so you can adjust 5. Then 120 watching 4 so you can adjust 3.. If you meant can you adjust more than one pair of valves at a time, you can but I don't know which ones. There is a guide based on TDC #1 and #6 which is as follows: When piston #1 is on TDC valve overlap (intake is opening/exhaust is closing, you stop at that point), you can adjust the Exhaust valves on Pistons 2,4,6 and the Intake valves on 3,5,6. Then you rotate the engine 360 degrees which will put #6 on valve overlap. Then you can adjust the Exhaust valves on 1,3,5 and the Intake valves on 1,2,4. However, this method is for a cummins inline 6 and unless you are doing this on an inline 6 with the same firing order, then I don't think this is valid (I don't know what you are doing it on when you mention a 52 chevy). http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-12v-dodge-cummins/20-engine-valve-lash-adjustments

I had half a notion to wonder if that's what was actually going on. But they have to be sitting on a rather large sum of money nonetheless lol. Thanks for clarifying it though, I didn't really mean to come off as someone who actually knew what was going on in the economy.

I put 500lbs back there lol (2 engine blocks) You block the 4 slots of the honeycomb.

That has to be the cheapest shot I've ever seen. He has $5 million dollar floating around and unless he wins the political games, no charity get's $5 million. Unreal. There are people with cancer in their 20's who can't afford the medical care they are getting and he has $5 million burning a hole in his pocket. If I were rich I would save up maybe $100k, then spend it from there on. Give it to people who need it. Why do all these rich people sit on billions.

This is what I get.NV5600 6 Speed Specifications: Case:......Cast Iron Bellhousing:......Aluminum Alloy Torque Rating:......550 lb.-ft. Gross Vehicle Weight:......16,000 lbs. Gross Combined Weight:......26,000 lbs. Transmission Weight:......360 lbs. First Gear Ratio:......5.63-1 Second Gear Ratio:......3.38-1 Third Gear Ratio:......2.04-1 Fourth Gear Ratio:......1.39-1 Fifth Gear Ratio:......1.00-1 Sixth Gear Ratio: .073-1......(Overdrive) Reverse Gear Ratio:......5.63-1 Oil Capacity:......9.5 pints Oil Capacity with optional filter:..10 pints Recommended Lubricant:.....Chrysler 4874464 Input Shaft:..10 Spline, either 1.25" or 1.375"