ISX

Yes it will run the same but slightly more efficient on 230 and yes it will draw more amps on 110. Volts x Amps = Watts so if watts remains the same which in this case it would since the motor doesn't change HP rating between voltages, it means that if one goes up the other goes down. As in if amps goes up the volts go down given the same wattage. 1v x 100a is the same as 100v x 1a. The difference is that amps are your flow, your source of heat from friction.. So wire size is determined solely by amps. This is why your dryer/oven/etc. use 240v, because the wires would have to be 2 gauge which is very expensive being big copper wires and just not worth it. This is why 230 is also more efficient (though maybe not so noticeable on your electric bill) since it doesn't waste as much heat with amp flow.

Guess I am the only one who uses a different technique I turn onto the on ramp and as I am approaching traffic I am constantly looking for a hole, if it is farther back in the pack, I accelerate slowly so I end up at 70 right at the moment I am next to that hole. If I see nothing but cars or I guess what I see a lot is a line of semis with cars in the fast lane passing and they form this long line but it's not hard to see the line of them once you turn onto the on ramp. In this case, punch it Even though they are doing 70 when you turn onto the on ramp and see them next to you while you are still going 15, its a cummins... I dart in front of the whole pack. With the jeep I got now, ehhhh. By the time it gets wound up, the pack is past the entire on ramp lane. If you see now hole just keep accelerating slowly up to where you can readily hit 70 (maybe 30mph), then if you see a hole, punch it. Really doesn't matter if you drove at 30 for so long you are in the emergency lane, I have never had to do that but I could care less if I did. I am not about to be like all these other people who can see the hole in traffic, and then try and get on at 10mph in front of you. As if people cannot see that they are getting on an interstate.

Well no, obviously you can put your hand on the neutral wire on a 110 circuit since it is bonded with ground. Not so with the 230 circuit. So you could say the 230 is 2 hots and the 110 is 1 hot, but in reality it's just a matter of which is hot in relation to you touching it...they actually both work the same way it's just whether or not it's hot to us if we touch it. The second pic is what you need to check out. From what I can tell, there are 3 wires taped together which means there should be 1 wire coming from the motor and straight out then another 2 wires taped together to form 1 wire which comes straight out as well. Both of these straight out wires form your power connection. The wires at the motor have numbers on them. If you look at pic 3 at the bottom you see low voltage and high voltage 153284, the lines between the numbers show how it should be wired. low voltage is 110, high voltage is 230. So for 110, 153 go together and form one wire, and 284 go together to form the other wire. Right above those numbers you see L1 and L2. On 230 it doesnt matter but on 110 the L1 gets the hot wire and L2 gets the neutral. In your house, hot is black and neutral is white. If you notice, 230 configuration has 532 connected together going to neither L1 or L2, 1 goes to L1 and 8 and 4 connect and go to L2. In the pic you took it showed 3 wires connected going to nothing, telling me it must be 230 since 110 doesnt have 3 wires going to nothing. The schematic says the transformer is not used for 230 volt but only to step up voltage when using a 110 volt setup, meaning the coil of the motor starter relay must be 230 volt. Confirm that the motor has all those wire numbers hooked up for 230v operation and then if it were me I would just run a 230v circuit to it. In your house this is what those 2 breaker wide breakers are for. So all the breakers you have that are wide are 230v, such as your oven, dryer, etc. Though going to 110 might be more feasible since you probably dont have 230v outlets just laying around everywhere.

110 and 230 can both be 2 wire. Your house does this. The water heater elements are 2 wire 230 and household stuff is 2 wire 110. The ground is for safety and a lot of old things neglect it (but shouldn't obviously). 4 wire things such as an oven have 2 wires for the elements in the oven, a ground for safety, and a neutral for 110 things such as the clock in the oven. The house has 2-110 circuits or 1-230 circuit, the neutral is needed to seemingly "split" the 230 circuit into 2-110 circuits. It is actually 120 and 240 but things say 110 or 115 or 120, basically the same thing. Anyhow, that relay is called a motor starter relay. Switches don't like high current running through them so they are wired to simply start the relay by energizing the coil within it, which is many times less current so the switches are happy. The coil does have a power rating though and it might be a 110 or 230 coil and there is probably a little transformer in there to either raise or lower the voltage from the incoming source voltage to give the coil the proper voltage. Too much and it will fry too little and it won't engage. The motor is dual voltage but has wires that have to be connected a certain way for 230 or 110 volts. Looking at how it's wired would be a good indicator of what it has been ran on, though double checking everything else is probably a good thing too. A ground is a good thing to have and you can easily replace the cord (I assume that one doesn't even have an end on it or you would know what kind of outlet it plugs into) with one with a ground, then just run the other end to the frame of the saw. I could get into more detail but I don't know if this sounds like something too daunting to challenge or not, let me know and I'll give full details.

Someone on here said a while back to soak them a while in penetrating oil and then get a hammer and hit the bolt, it shocks the rust bond so then it unscrews. I went out and tried it on a few of them after they said that and sure enough worked like a charm.

If you know where the solid wood is can you run some unistrut or something to it then bolt the handles to that? Might look cheesy but maybe you can fancify it.

Isn't there a boost gauge on the beast? If it leaked enough to cause 0psi boost, you would be in 3rd gear at 25mph the whole time with that load. I just had well actually I pulled his trailer so it was like a little 1000lb enclosed little trailer. Just with that and no boost it was horrible. No power, just smoke. I have a bigger trailer that might be 4000lb with all of our crap in it and I run up hills by rolla, MO that are like 2 miles long and not sure what grade but steep enough all the semi's are down to 30mph at the top from 65mph. I am running 20psi the entire way up them holding 70mph. I don't even have a fan and run maybe a max of 205F. Really just need to hear some boost numbers IMO..

Amazing what the turbo does. I was pulling our trailer at 70 at 600-700F and the intercooler boot blew off doing "something" and it was amazing how quickly the EGT's went up. I had to slow down to 55 in 5th and was running at 1000F. Obviously that heat adds to the coolant temp.

I haven't messed with the exhaust manifold so any way you see fit to get the job done is as good as I would be able to tell you. You could take the turbo off easy enough though the studs on the flange aren't exactly fun either.

Some leaks don't expose themselves until you get high enough in pressure to make it leak. I stripped out one of the intercooler hose clamps (using the impact gun..) and just kinda let it go and all was well until I pulled the trailer and some old lady was in front of me doing 10mph trying to get on the interstate, I floored it to go around her and it blew up at 35psi. I put it back on and all was well, but a similar uh, occasion occured lol and I blew it up again but only partially. It would leak out from under the clamp only at higher boost levels (from what I could hear). The only problem is you can't really get any kind of tester to hold 20+psi. I would just check over each and every clamp for bolt tightness, and same with the intake horn/manifold bolts. Make sure all the boots are on properly as well, not sliding off like mine did in the aforementioned occasion.

Sounds like the shutoff solenoid isn't turning on. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-12v-dodge-cummins/21-p7100-injection-pump-fuel-shutoff-solenoid It energizes with a relay on the firewall to the left of the brake cylinder. That relay kicks on with the starter and gives the power needed to move the shutoff solenoid. When you let off the starter, the key being on holds the solenoid up with a green wire. What you can do is turn the key on and go out and push the solenoid up, if it holds then it is the red wire and the relating relay that is the culprit.

I am not sure when they did this but I just looked and it is now advertised as 350hp and 800tq. Before it was 350/650. So they just bumped it in the last month. Ford has been at 400/800 for some time now. Guess they finally kicked the cummins up a notch. I just wonder why the 6spd is still rated at 610TQ. The only thing I can think of is hot rodders will slam through the gears with their trailers and tear things up with all the power, so having an auto kinda eliminates that as long as the auto is built for the power http://www.ramtrucks.com/en/2012/ram_2500_3500/capability/powertrain/#

They should all spray. I would let the 3 foam and they should only do that for well not very long with it running. Let them do it again for eh 30 seconds. If they never start spraying a constant stream then something is wrong.

We got a big thread on this going on another forum. You might see if it helps you any. http://www.dieseltrucksite.com/showthread.php?t=110

I knew about the cost savings which is one reason I ran it. I also knew about the oil leak issue which is a reason I quit running it. Not because it leaked but because I couldn't readily replace the oil, always had to buy more and I hated the way they do things with the preferred customer thing. If they would make it easy to get then I would switch back.

I was not looking to argue Bill. Just trying to figure out what stands out about it. The title is the doubters of amsoil though, hence my statement about what exactly stands out about it that people doubt.. If I did want to get right down to it though, I would like to see a generator with an exact load on it put through the tests with different types of oils along with dynoed and see what happens. Of course the biggest concern of all is if it is legit or not. I know amsoil has been here for 40 years but somebody somewhere will have doubts. I don't know why but they will, the fact that they do makes me have doubts. One of these days I hope to conduct my own tests, to be scrutinized by the public as well Now I do read a lot about people gaining some mpgs by changing every fluid on the truck to amsoil, enough people that I might actually believe it. I don't see how these people can track 0.1mpg though when a speedbump could throw the truck off by that much. But if I ever find a way to test it, I will surely test out amsoil and be another believer if it all does what it says. I guess nobody will ever be completely satisfied. Thanks for the documentation Bill, and thanks for being honest, that's really all I wanted to see. There's enough guys saying "buy amsoil because I said so" so it's a nice changeup.

I'm going to throw something else out there.. We all know we need oil to lube, cool, clean, and I thought there was one more. In any case, what is to say that all oils on the market aren't plenty good for our cummins? My dad told me some months ago that back when he was in college they tested the engine drag using different oils and he said that anything with "lube" in it all had insignificant differences. I realize this isn't exactly a "wear over time" test, but it does say something. So if we say all oils lube the same, then as long as the viscosities are the same, they would all theoretically protect the same. I say that because I know thinner and thicker oil are needed under certain circumstances, which all oils on the market are capable of doing, unless you buy straight weight. I realize amsoil and every other oil company has tests that prove they are better, but whats to say these tests are actually beneficial to us? As in, if oil A wears more than oil B, are we gonna notice the difference a million miles down the road? Cajflynn has over a million now on dino oil pulling boats and stuff everyday and still runs great, so you can't throw out that obvious example. That brings me to the point that the only real factor in wear must be mainly contaminants. Crap that gets in the oil that is smashed between bearings and has it's way with them. That means the biggest contributor to oil wearing out engines goes right back to the oil filter. Dorkweed never changed his oil for 80k miles and it was supertech oil at that, all he changed was his oil filter and frantz oil filter every 5 or 10k miles. He is over 100k miles now, has no issues and still gets great mpg. The dual filter setup keeps it clean. Which brings me to point C. My theory is that the best way to keep the oil clean is use a centrifuge filter. I have never used one since they are expensive but I haven't read anything that said they don't clean better than anything else. Plus you just have to clean the crap out of them every now and then so there is no filter to change. Now going to the original paragraph on this post, the viscosity has to be the same or stuff isn't happy and like I said earlier in this thread, that is where amsoil has benefits. The cold weather operation is exceptional. But I see no other benefits that will hurt us in the long run for not using it. I mean if Cajflynn can go a million on dino, then what else is there to prove? Maybe it will easily go 2 million with amsoil, but I think there are other parts that wear out irregardless of engine oil so the engine would need to be rebuilt sooner or later, meaning the 2 million mile amsoil would have been a waste of time. I would actually like to see a nonbiased test of dino oil after 50k (drained from dorkweeds truck lol) and amsoil after 50k and see how much of a wear difference there is. Run both through a centrifuge to eliminate foreign crap. I just want to see if "oil wears out", or if it just gets dirty. As for Bill, I am not trying to talk down to amsoil, I don't favor any oil, I merely buy valvoline premium blue because it has a cummins on it, is blue, and is available everywhere. I would however, like to see something other than tests that amsoil performed when they are the competition.. Now if you can prove to me, after everything I just said, that amsoil is what I need to run because it will benefit me in the long run (and not just with cost, I know that), then I will switch back. I am not biased or anything so convincing me might be easy, though the examples I stated will be hard to match

I used amsoil for a while and the only benefit I see is anytime it is cold out. It gets oil pressure just as fast as in the summer. However, I don't see any benefit in the summer. It does save you money though, sometimes. If your truck is pristine then it's probably a no brainer, but mine leaks oil a little and every seal leaks a tiny bit so I can't fix one and call it good. This means I would have to order amsoil to replace what I lost. The only problem with that is that amsoil has their preferred customer thing so if I only needed a gallon and my year was up, the gallon would cost $20 plus the oil cost. I only needed oil once a year so every year I had to pay that $20 thing. If you don't pay $20, the cost of just the oil at market price costs more than preferred customer price with the $20. So I think their pricing is a little out of whack. The 25,000 mile interval makes up all the costs but still, it's the thought of constantly having to pay that $20. It's also just a pain if I need oil NOW. I screwed up and started my truck with the turbo oil return not in the rubber hose of the oil pan (different turbo, research and development lol) and lost a gallon there. I had to wait a week to get the replacement. I now use valvoline premium blue. I have nothing against amsoils products that I can statistically prove did anything bad to anything. I run it in my dirt bike. But I want more availability for my truck.

The only thing under the fuel filter is the lift pump/fuel heater. Is it leaking around that? Could be leaking out all your pressure causing all the low power issues.

I don't have much experience with resolving this but it sounds like your friend is right on the money and after searching around a whole bunch I found something about a boost elbow fixing it since the needle valve in the elbow makes the pressure rise/drop very slow so it doesn't transfer the pressure spikes to the wastegate and cause it to slam open. There is a guy with a truck identical to mine who has less power and his does it but mine never has so I don't know what causes it, apparently not power. I know this cause I blow his doors off every time we race. Hopefully someone who knows the true cause will chime in.

Yeah crack each line at the injector to make sure no air is in there and make sure each one changes the sound the same. Do you have a way to check fuel pressure?

That's some good work I woulda used a dryer vent hose if I had to do it

My question is did you beat the powerstroke you were racing? I would like to hear the verdict on the issue.

They sound exactly the same when you crack each one? Do it again but crack them at the injectors one at a time. There is something at 1100RPM that makes everything more noticable than other RPM's. It's fast enough to make the noise really loud but not fast enough to smooth it out. Mine did the same thing when I put an injector together wrong, but you said you have new injectors. I would like to see if cracking them at the injector changes anything, sometimes air gets in there and has a hard time getting out which. How did you measure #6? With an IR gun? How does it start when the engine is cold?

Good god! What causes all the rust there? I thought it was bad here where they use salt all winter to melt a stray snowflake.