ISX

I think it's a whole different world when you have a turbo. The engine drives it meaning the engine forces it to suck in air, you're using power to make it do that. A non-turbo engine is relying on nothing but luck and the vacuum from the cylinders, which I know the vacuum never sucks in 100% volume in the short time it has. Supposedly engines can be built to get over 100% of their volume in, formula 1 cars get in 120% with no turbo at all.

Put some penetrating oil on that allenhead in the manifold, then get a torch and get the area around the allenhead almost red hot quickly, then quickly remove the allenhead, if nothing then hit it with a hammer, not hard just a mild tap to break the rust loose, then try and remove it.If that doesn't work, heat it up again but now the allenhead will be hot as well which will screw you so have a cup of ice cold water handy and get everything hot again, now dump the water into the top of the allenhead being careful not to get too much on the manifold, you want just the allenhead to cool and it will shock it and pop it out of the rust. So dump the water on it for 5 seconds, then try and take it out all quick as you can. If nothing, get the drill lol.Remember that allenheads can strip so if it starts to strip, stop cause you will just ruin all further attempts. I am thinking a few hours of penetrating oil and a tap with a hammer might do it without any heat at all.

Yeah I read how crappy they were, but I can still throw a cummins it

Nice cadillac for my living room and a lotus for my grocery getting lol. I don't want to start a new thread for this thing but I have been trying to get a pic of this thing for months and finally pulled off the road and took one, I was determined It's the only 4 axled boat trailer I've ever seen. It's about that long is all I can say about it's length

It seems they added to this truck. [*]Ported 12cm turbine housing for more flow [*]3 piece exhaust manifold [*]Modified marine 370's for higher pop pressure [*]Longer delivery valve springs to accomodate the injectors [*]Timing set at 22* [*]Rack plug mod to allow more rack travel Now it dynos at 429 RWHP and 842TQ. I imagine the torque would be higher if it wasn't for the timing being set up for where the HP is at it's max. Boost was 42psi, EGT's hit 1500F. Apparently they still have the stock intake and exhaust.

For some reason I was in the right place at the right time to hear the older style camero (2005 maybe) start up that somehow had a 427 in it. I don't know how or why it was in there it was a really special edition. It was as loud as a nascar but you really couldn't tell it was any different from a regular camaro until they popped the hood. Being in a big tin building it was absolutely deafening.

The integra in the photoshoot thread made me start this Anyhow if you could have any car and money grew on trees, what would you get? Don't bring trucks into this, I think it's obvious what we would get lol. When I was younger I really wanted a Saleen. When it came to mustangs there were at least 5 different models you could get, each superseding the next. At that time (2001 or so) it went something like this from crappiest to best. [*]Mustang (V6) [*]Mustang GT [*]Mustang Cobra/SVT [*]Mustang Roush [*]Mustang Saleen S281 [*]Mustang Saleen S281-E (might have came out a little later) They had completely different body work and interiors than the regular GT and had superchargers and were rated over 400HP, think the E was hitting 500. Of course now that the GT500 is out, saleen keeps a bit under "the king" to pay respects or something. Then in 03 came the mach 1. I had just had open heart surgery and right after we got out of the hospital my dad took me to the ford dealer and we test drove a SVT cobra (supercharged ones now) and the mach 1. I have to say, the SVT had power of course, but that mach 1 is still the only new car I have heard to date that brings me somewhat back to the sound my dads 67 GT350 made. I actually looked them up a while back and apparently they are better than the SVT and if you throw a supercharger on it to make it on par with the SVT, it will beat it. But, my all time favorite that are very cheap and I could probably get one if it wasn't for the fact that I didn't need one is a 1991ish Jaguar XJ-S. They come with I6's or V12's and do around 140. It was in speed zone with better wheels than is on all of them I see in ads but yeah I think it's really neat haha. Here is a scene with it in the movie, yess its the blue one. http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZoY7iORGTN4 I also have a thing for the Audi RS5 that's coming out Oh and I've seen a Maserati GranTurismo in person, sweet jesussss.

I thought it was a little weird to have a huge mountain next to all those peeons. That's just incredible. I also found it weird the first time I saw the mountains in colorado come up in a line out of flat plains Glaciers need to do more gradual work. Oh grand canyon was the same way, nothing at all until you walk to the edge and see it all. Weird how everything likes to amaze you.

Is that actually a mountain in the background or a cloud?

I am not sure what you mean but I think you mean the part of the driveshaft that has splines. That part is definitely supposed to slide. I bet it does slide but takes a lot of force that only the truck can produce. It should slide in and out pretty easily though so if you can get it out (just pulls straight out, nothing is holding it) and grease it up it should be fine unless there is rust in there from not having any grease.

Yeah I don't get that at all. A brand new cummins that is completely stock from what I have heard gets less empty than I do with our trailer. I might as well list how I think it is NOT cleaner. [*]Cleaner now, blows the soot out during regen mode later. I can put a bag over my exhaust, collect the soot, and dump it in the creek when you're not looking as well.. [*]Worse fuel economy means you burn more fuel, how does burning more fuel even though burning cleaner, have lower emissions in the long run. My truck might be dirtier but I burn less fuel... [*]Indirectly, we now have to make more fuel for these trucks that guzzle it, wonder where the soot during that process goes...

Was in interesting day. I get there and nothing works but the dome light and hood light. No headlights, no nothing. After rewiring my truck I knew if nothing else, the headlights would surely work. Figured 24V's had some fancy stuff on them so called Mike to get the rundown on the wiring, same as my 12V though, nothing fancy. All the clear fuses were good but Mike says they can be burnt where you can't see and to ohm them all. I still couldn't figure out how it would make the headlights and everything else not work, it was like a master fuse was blown. While I am messing with all of this and pushing wires around, the guy is in the truck and suddenly everything turns on. Truck still won't start but just clicks. I know now we got something going on with connections, of course Mike is on the phone saying the same thing lol. We swap batteries with my truck just to make sure the battery isn't the cause since we didn't have a load tester and the crossed wire incident had made me a little shakey on the battery's condition. Same story, but the starter clicked multiple rounds, getting better. So I decide to take the terminal apart since it was an aftermarket one that smashed the wires. I get it apart and it looked like I just dumped a bag of sand. It didn't look very conductive We cleaned them all up, stuck it back together, truck started right up. I guess I am not sure why the dome light and hood light still worked when the connection was so bad it basically wasn't connecting. But I do have a new respect for corrosion. I am not one to think corrosion could cause a truck to be fine one day and completely dead the next. I think the crossed wires added some blackness to it but I still was doubting it would have that big of an effect. My batteries are in the back toolbox and never get corrosion on them so it never crosses my mind that it could be that big of an issue since I've never dealt with it. Lesson learned. All the more reason to keep your battery terminals coated with oil or something.

But a 2wd truck the same as mine gets 3mpg worse be it a CP3 or VP44. I know there are emissions things, but for a truck that is most efficient at all RPM's I would think they should be getting 30, as I know if my timing was dynamic I would probably have no problem hitting 30. At 55 I get 27.. I just see all these benefits on the newer trucks but it's like the thought process of having the benefits itself costs you mpg.

Sooo I gotta go help this guy because I know his daughter and ehhh. Anyhow, he went to autozone and got a new battery, wonderful kid there crossed the leads and fried the battery. Think he said they put another battery in, correctly, and it started 3 times so he drove it home. He gets home, inspects the battery and finds the negative lead loose, he puts a shim in it to get it tight and gets in and "click".Says the hood light and dome light are on, nothing else works. I am thinking he fried the other battery which they didn't replace and between it and the new battery it had enough to start 3 times and then it just lived off the alternator, but slowly died on the way home until finally killing itself which is why he has nothing now. I am betting they fried the 120amp fuse as well. But that's as far as I know to check, as well as all the other fuses. It is a VP44 truck, dont ask me any more info lol. Gonna go over and kick it tomorrow but would like to know some more on what I should be checking before I go over and leave him without an answer as to what the issue is should my 12valver tactics not work.

Forgot about that. One guy told me when he floored it in his car it would kill his wipers since I guess it doesn't produce any vacuum when you floor it. I know nothing about gassers

Alright I read AH64's stuff some more and looked at that link. That dyno was very interesting. I guess what I don't understand is why 12V's get better mileage with static timing than VP's or CP3's with dynamic timing. They claim emissions and weight differences but I can throw 1000lbs in the bed of mine and still get 25mpg. There is more to this than just timing but for the sake of the thread I will just focus on timing. To me it's almost like mileage doesn't really change, even though boost and power are all different. It's like something is making up for the differences which causes the mileage to be the same. I admit it was a little less but hardly enough to say a few degrees timing will wreck havoc on your fuel tank. I read a huge article once on timing, not really what it does but what effects the degrees, like pop pressure and spray pattern and stuff. What I would like to see is a chart showing exactly where the timing needs to be for most efficient operation at each rpm and power percentile (which I would assume to be most powerful at that rpm as well) with emissions thrown completely out.

My question is why is this listed as something to brag about: Also an electric windshield wiper system.Are they normally manual or what?

My parents skipped all that and just got the belt out every time

I gotta read over all of this some more for a while. I wonder if that timing table is right on the 20 degree thing. Why else would VP44 trucks knock like crazy at idle when they have basically the same everything as mine except the injector is moved to the center. I don't see that causing a huge knock at idle. Every time I park by one unknowingly idling I pop my hood and check the oil, until I figure out it's that truck. With mine advanced a lot it still didn't knock as bad as them so I'm really thinking they have a very advanced idle timing. I think i have been explaining what I saw in a point of view only I understand but you are right AH. Without a trailer the differences are pretty subtle. If you floor it then it shows the effect pretty good. I noticed I get more of a grey haze now than the soot I got before when I floored it. Pulling a trailer the differences really show. I was still getting decent mileage with the trailer though, I woulda thought it would be a lot worse. Most people on the net claim huge mileage differences with timing but I saw maybe 2 less if that going from 13.5 to 4. That was trailer mileage, didn't check it without it. Eh let me read over this some more and add more in a bit, I'm hungry and thirsty and you guys wrote a book while I was gone

My timing used to be really advanced and my max boost actually went up by 5psi. This was with the wastegate hooked up but outflowing it, as in I was hitting 30psi with stock timing and 35 with advanced. Notice it says manifold pressure decreases below peak torque, that leads me to believe it increases above it, especially since I have seen it first hand. I have heard mixed things on timing effecting EGT's. Guys who have sled pulling trucks tell me their EGT's go up when they advance it, yet nonpullers say the opposite. There are some other factors in the equation apparently though sled pullers are advancing it into the 20's. I think the degree of advance has a lot to do with it. You get to a certain sweet spot which will help EGT, but keep going and you eventually have reversed effects. There is also just the fact that people say the EGT is higher but they are still not telling the whole truth, yes it is higher but only because it takes more fuel because of the inefficient burn, if they compared results with boost psi they would see EGT is the same, as in 10psi egt with advanced timing is the same as 10psi egt with retarded timing, people on forums are comparing 10psi advanced egt with 15psi retarded egt. I am saying if boost is equal, EGT is the same as well. It is only higher because you have to step on it more to get the same power. I am talking about pure engine operation EGT where the fuel going in is the same amount no matter the timing, and with that, EGT will always be the same. This is not a model of any sort, it is what I have seen personally from doing it. --- Update to the previous post... I would set it to 14.5. That should put the timing in the best spot. As for EGT's, set your valves at 6 intake and 15 exhaust, makes a big difference. If you haven't straight piped it yet, that would help, or at least have a see through muffler. 4"+ exhaust is best, even says they need that in the cummins manual so I don't know how they ended up with 3".

Yeah I really didn't see much of a change. If it was at 30psi it was at the same EGT as when the right timing was at 30psi. I do question how you do just timing, I mean if it's a chip I kinda doubt it messes with timing and absolutely nothing else. I bet it changes a few other parameters, though I have no clue. Seeing the timing maps for the VP44 which are all over the place really tells me that it could be a whole different map as well. Could be less timing here but more there and less here and.... Nobody ever has a chart to show what they actually are. 12 valves have the same exact timing throughout so they show the principles of timing a lot better since all of the variables are not variable at all. It's definitely not a benefit of the 12 valve but in this case it does have a better reputation since we know for sure what my timing is and a new truck just has "more or less timing", which is still highly variable and very questionable unless we saw another vp44 looking map thing. I had mine at 13.5 and loved it there. I bumped it up to 14.5 since I spend a lot of time at 2000RPM with the trailer lately. If it wasn't for the trailer I would be back around 1600RPM and would set it back at 13.5, maybe 12. The thing is that you lose power down low when you advance it a lot and I doubt you would care with an automatic but I don't like having to rev higher in gears to try and make up for the loss in power the next gear will have. Many people say 16 is the sweet spot but that seems a little high to me. If you pull trailers a lot (run higher RPM), then 16 would be good, but I like to keep a good average between startability, low RPM driving and trailer driving. Startability needs probably around 0-5* advance, low RPM driving (1500-2000) is probably in the 10-14 range, and over 2000 is 16-20. I wouldn't go much over 18 because it will start like crap in the winter, more like autumn. Basically it's all up to how you drive.

I actually just drove it a sec ago. I drove it through a ditch after I put them on to see if it banged like before since I haven't taken the overloads off yet and it didn't make a peep. I put them on top of the overloads and just aired them up to get them a couple inches away from the overload contact points so that they wouldn't be used. The plan is to take those rubber contact points off and just let the overloads do nothing. I didn't want to take the U bolts out and get rid of the overloads and have to make new U bolts and all that. As for the drive I just did, they are incredible. Turned a wagon into a cadillac. Can't wait to hook onto the trailer and see what difference it makes.

I never understood that chart until now. I see everything as being a chain reaction. First off the thing isn't burning very efficient at cruising RPM, this means less power per fuel. The way a 12 valve is, or mine anyways, the pedal is your fuel amount, literally. If I am going 20mph and want to go 30 at a set acceleration, I push on the pedal a set amount and it gives it that much more fuel IRREGARDLESS of ANYTHING. If I change injectors or mess with timing or anything like that, it still gives it the exact same amount of fuel. Since the same amount of fuel now produces less power, I have to step on it a little more to get the same acceleration. Because I have to step on it more, I put in more fuel which raises EGT's while also creating more boost (intake manifold pressure). Cylinder pressure is down because the inefficient operation isn't creating as much of a "boom". EGT's actually were the same if you compare apples to apples. As in a slight haze and 30psi would be the same EGT as before, difference is that the power was a lot less. So the heat output is pretty linear whether the engine uses it for work or just blows it out the exhaust. I just set my timing to 14.5* and my power is back lol. EGT's are down but there again, I drive the same and since it's much more efficient it doesn't take as much fuel to get the same acceleration, so less fuel = cooler EGT.

I took the P7100 out a while back and I got in a hurry and messed up the timing but it ran fine so I said heck with it. I noticed it started up basically instantly, but quickly fell on it's face. When I pulled our trailer the same place (Branson), instead of the usual 15-20psi max, I was now getting into the 30's and it still didn't have the same power. I found it interesting so I drove it some more, pulled some more and now I got a chance to see exactly what the timing was. Believe it or not, it was at 3.8* :stuned:This was actually good because it really made the effects show. Starting is a lot quicker of course, because the piston gets a chance to go up farther, building more heat before the fuel gets shot in. It was 44F a couple days ago and it was still starting insanely fast and my grids are not hooked up. It actually seemed to be doggier at low RPM driving than usual. You would think it would be better off but it really didn't show that effect at all. Higher in the RPM it was a piece of crap. It still had power I suppose but it was nothing to brag about and definitely didn't snap your neck. Boost has just been wayyyy up there trying to compensate for the crappy fuel burn. Mileage was somewhat worse, but I still got 15mpg pulling the trailer 70mph, which is 2100 RPM. It was very obvious that I was stepping on the pedal a lot more. When you floored it, it really was a junker. Mine being a 215 pump means it has retarding notches to allow more fuel in, which I am told allow up to 4* retarding. Which means it was dumping the fuel in right at TDC. It smoked a lot more at all RPM's.

I got air bags from firestone, the ride rite ones. I don't see why I didn't do this a long time ago. It's 10x better ride now. I watched the pressure gauge while my brother jumped on the truck and saw it going up and down and I knew it would do the same thing while driving and I was thinking about the whole cornering deal. This made me leave the air lines separate so that when the truck rolls into a corner, it won't compress the air into the other airbag as the truck rolls and make it roll even more. I don't haul enough weight or go fast enough to really worry about it but I figured it would be wise to prevent it. The shrader valve was pretty neat since it had a quick connect hose fitting on the back. Most people put it in the bumper or something but I absolutely hate the idea of shrader valves just hanging out there for someone to mess with. I looked and looked and finally found the perfect spot. When you open the tailgate there is a square rubber block maybe an inch x inch x inch that seems to serve as a bump stop though my tailgate doesn't hit it, anyhow I drilled a hole right under it and stuck it in there. It's perfect, nobody knows it's there and it's easy to get to. I am starting to think I did good getting airbags, I really like the idea of being able to vary the psi rather than having something that's just 1 setting.