ISX

Because the tools in back stop rattling..

When you turn it off the engine slows down but still overcomes compression and rolls on to the next stroke until the engine gets to the point that it doesn't have enough momentum to overcome the compression. Therefore, the compression acts as a spring, the engine compresses the air but doesn't have the momentum so instead, it springs back, turning the engine reverse. It does this very quickly so the belt loses traction and squeaks. Everyone's truck except for mine does it, think I have heard it do it once.

What happens when the pump is turning that allows it to flow more? I guess I don't see how it can limit everything since that would mean intense pressure could be built and not be able to be relieved very quickly. I know the raptor has it's own regulator but did the stock lift pump have one as well? Will those pumps even build a lot of pressure? If you plug the line on my lift pump it will just keep going till something blows but I know thats a mechanical feature that I doubt the electric lift pumps will do.

Alright you'll have to pardon my ignorance of how the VP44 works but on mine all there is, is an overflow valve which opens when the spring pressure is overcome. Now in his video, I think it is the same principle, but is the flow regulated by the components in the pump or by the overflow valve? If it is just the overflow valve, then I think I have a solution. Build a T in which the return goes into one port, the overflow valve goes into a different port, which would be the same as it is now if the 3rd port were plugged, but instead, put a solenoid valve in the 3rd port. When the engine is off you can have a programmer pulsate the fuel pump and each time it energizes the pump, it also energizes the solenoid, so you have wide open flow. For some reason I am thinking the VP44 restricts it in another way, though this would work on a P7100. You really wouldn't even need a decent pump for this since you would have a wide open valve and all you would need was some flow, very little pressure. I would get a deep cycle battery and put a relay on it to connect it to the other batteries only when the key is on, that way when the alternator isn't running it would be isolated from draining the other batteries. That would be the fuel pump battery. Question all comes down to what would happen if there was no overflow valve in the VP, would it free flow or would it still be the same low pathetic flow. If it is the same low flow, I wonder if it would be possible to make it work having a little crappy pump and free flowing fuel system, that is if it even is free flowing without the overflow, another thing I need to figure out.

John researched the Ppump idea and came to the conclusion that after selling everything off of your 24V for the swap, you pretty well end up breaking even or spending only up to $500 on stuff. CR injectors are another thing, they are expensive, but it's what the emissions standards require and it's a bad part on dodge to put crappy fuel filters in. I know the diesel here is like a muddy river in comparison to the sparkling creek diesel they have in europe, I wonder if they have any injector issues over there. Dorkweed never has any issues so I'm sure he could care less about the price of the injectors. If my P7100 goes out, I'm looking at $2000. Just because the cost is there doesn't mean it is going to have to be paid for. Dorkweed is having great luck with his as far as I know and I doubt he would go back to a VP truck. Same with Wild and Free. Injector issue on CR, VP on VP44 trucks...same thing to me and injectors are easier to change. You lose a lot of fancy functionality with the P pump replaced instead with reliability. I still just see it as dodge doing their homework with the ppump and skipping some worksheets with the VP and CR trucks, they shoulda known to do something to make the VP reliable same with the CR, but we know how to resolve the issue with fuel pumps and fuel filters and then you have a truck that is just as reliable as a Ppump. I hear a lot about plungers sticking in the ppumps but it isn't advertised as much for some reason, keeping the good rap of the ppump. One VP goes down and the whole world knows about it. Personally, I loved John's truck. I liked how it drove and felt, though the response and feel of the engine was completely different than my ppumper. You would lose all of that if you ppumped the truck. I don't know if one is better than the other but his sure seemed a lot more cadillac. Being me, I like to tear into things and figure it out, I like knowing I don't have any obstacles and lets face it, the VP44 is not something you can just tear into, I can get into the ppump and put it back together easily enough with the right tools but the VP44 is not garage mechanic friendly. I also don't like how problems can be generated just from a computer (ECM). If my truck is running weird, its obviously something mechanical, if a 24V runs weird, it's something mechanical or electronic and unless you memorized all the codes and got a code reader, you might be sitting on the side of the road helplessly. I could probably fix any issue on my truck with just a pair of vise grips. Where am I going with this. What I am saying is you guys cant say because of one issue like the VP having issues, that that issue is enough to sell the whole truck. Fix the pump, get a raptor, get 2 stroke in it, get a fuel pressure gauge, problem solved. Might sound a little taxing to be messing with 2 stroke all the time but there is a price you gotta pay to have fancy features and lots of power among other things. Plus it only takes 30 seconds out of your day. Hmm, back on CR engines, they are harder to work on obviously, but I am beginning to think that is only because of the new stuff we have never seen. Looking at engines of the past, we see an incredibly simple design. I was at a car show last weekend that had all the hemi cudas and 427 cobras and tons of those camaro SS's, and they also had model A's and even a steam engine. The older you got, the less wires I saw, less hoses I saw, less stuff in the way of repairing them I saw... Now take a mechanic from back then and show him even a 1st gen 12V, he would say it was impossible to work on and everything else that we say about the latest trucks. I think the problem is that we haven't spread around enough of the ways at going about fixing things. Back then it was pretty obvious how to take things apart, nowadays they have a sequence, knowing the sequence is key, even on my truck things have a sequence that will bite you in the rear if you don't go in order. Now taking off the cab on these powerstrokes does seem like a chore, but once you figure out the right way to take it off, you are left with a chassis with the engine completely exposed, it would be the best thing to work on ever because you dont have the firewall and fenders always making things difficult. I do think they could just make the entire body of the front end from the firewall forward just flip up and open like on semi trucks. They have just as much crap as these new engines yet they are entirely serviceable.

The only snakes I see are the big black snakes, they are harmless. Bad thing is they are always laying across the trails when I'm on my dirt bike and you can't tell if its a log or a snake until you are right up on it, then you don't want to run it over because theres always that thought in the back of your head that it's gonna strike really fast or something. Nevertheless, I can stop right in front of it and it acts like you're not even there and slowly moves out of the way, and I do mean slow, I think they think it's fun to know they're holding you up.

The only thing that brings me back to a dead end is that the engine stays hot for hours on end. When his pump was 150F that was up to 3 hours after the truck had been shut down. It takes a few minutes to bring that pump back to ambient temps (or close) when you start it back up. Unless the fuel pump pulsates a little for hourrrss with a pulsation duration of maybe 10 seconds every minute, then I don't see it working. The chip gets the heat from somewhere, if the pump is cool then the chip will be cool as well, you don't have to directly cool the chip you just have to get rid of the heat sources that influence it. There are hundreds of solutions but none of them challenge a truck in a remote location that needs pump cooling until the engine is cool (several hours). It is also hard to cool something that is connected to the engine block therefore continues to get heat soaked. The best thing to do would be to circulate the fuel at a constant rate maybe 1gpm, and cool the fuel, though while driving the pump is always close to ambient so the fuel tank must radiate the heat pretty good. From another viewpoint, I don't see why they can't just make the pump more heat resistant. There are many what if's involved with this pump, and so far everyone has just been trying to mask the problem by trying to cool it or something. I don't see why we can't eliminate the what if.. What if my truck runs out of fuel? Oh I can eliminate it by topping it off... There are distinct differences between fixes and solutions.

It was around 70F when I was seeing 150F heat soak of the VP, seen on the fuel temp sensor in the VP that the edge juice is able to tap into. This happened over a period of several hours. I don't own a 24V so you probably know more about it's tendencies than the few days I spent with one but it was definitely not blistery hot out and it was still getting really hot since the engine takes forever to cool down which gives it hours to soak up all the heat. Of course the A/C was running, it was hotter than hell out lol. I turn the air off while I am at stoplights since the A/C does just start to get hot. It takes it a while to get hot though so if I know the stoplight is short I will leave it on. Engine coolant takes a long time to get above 212 so it's not even a concern of mine, though 24V's seem to get hotter a lot faster based on what Mike tells me.

If it isn't hot enough outside to make the engine overheat, then there is no issue. I don't have a fan, when I sit at a stoplight, the whole engine bay is HOT, and I see no signs of any issues. This includes pulling the trailer when it was 105F here, no fan, stoplights everywhere... The issue seems to be when you turn the truck off. The heat soak really gets to it. I watched John's truck climb in fuel temp up towards 150F every time you turned the truck off from operating temp, the fuel stops flowing and the engine equalizes. This doesn't necessarily facilitate an environment where everything is gonna melt as many things have a rating when not in use that is much higher than when they are running. A hard drive has a much lower shock rating while running than when it is off. Me and Mike spent hours going over this after I noticed it on John's truck. I think the problem lies when you turn the truck back on and it is still hot and the injection pump has been heat soaked and then the current creates more heat and stuff melts. Thing is, even if it was only 80F, the engine is still 190 when you turn it off and the underhood temps are always high because it has a way of insulating the heat. Therefore, I don't believe any temp from 60 on up to 120 is going to make a difference, the pump is still going to see 150+ temps no matter what unless you somehow cool the engine off quickly. When you start the truck, the pump quickly cools as fuel goes through it, so the only time I see the issue is the initial 5 minutes after the pump is still heat soaked because the engine has been ran sometime soon beforehand. Bluechip supposedly has a cure for this which entails leaving the lift pump on for a while, maybe even just pulsating it for a while, to keep cool fuel going through the pump to keep it from heat soaking until the engine has cooled enough to not heat up the pump to dangerous levels (which I am not sure at what temp they consider dangerous). As far as their idea goes, flowing through the pump while the truck is off seems to be a challenge. If you turn the lift pump on with the truck off, the pump merely wizzes out the overflow at a very low rate that probably couldn't keep up with the heat soak rate. My suggestion if you are worried about it is to keep your tank above 1/4 or 1/2 tank, that way there is a lot of fuel to radiate the heat. I doubt it would really make that much difference though. Frankly I don't think anything you do will stop the heat soak or even cool it down much aside from putting a peltier or something on it. I really wouldn't worry about it. I thought the blue chip X had the better solder in it so it isn't an issue anymore? If that's the case I wouldn't worry about it at all. Keep 2 stroke in it and call it good.

It is very interesting and I would love to be a cummins engineer but I need to know more first lol. I might go back and get some other books every now and then, they had a huge shelf of them all pertaining to engineering. I used to research that napier like crazy, I thought it was amazing and would watch a lot of youtube videos on it. Seems there are a lot of trains in Europe that still run them.

Sister went off to a big university specializing in engineering stuff so I took up the opportunity, told work I had better things to do, and went to the library there, which was practically a mall. I went straight to the engineering section that had to do with dynamics. First one is called design of machinery. I thought it was good enough there but I got home and looked at the table of contents and geeeeeeeeez, it has hundreds of pages on engine dynamics that deal with everything on the engine like the cam and flywheel and pistons and configurations and balance and hell I should just copy the contents page. I have been very interested in all that crap because they have to do with efficiency, which I am incredibly interested in improving. Theres about 400 pages about stuff dealing with the engine then another 300 pages of general physics that allow you to understand the 400 engine pages. 100 pages alone are on cam design. I'm going nuts over this book. If that wasn't enough, I got one on "fluid mechanics". Which is 700 pages of every detail of fluid that I cannot even fathom and will probably have to get my sisters book on calculus to understand it. Now if I could just quit my pointless job :banghead:

No prob, if you need more help, keep posting lol. Excel of course! http://www.mopar1973man.com//isx97/Excel/Excell.JPG Schedule.xls

I think it could easily be figured in if you knew who was qualified. I obviously just guessed that all of them were qualified but if you only had a few then you could adjust their schedules accordingly. All comes down to planning really, the welder's and electrician's schedules are very flexible, whereas the mechanic is a little more strict since you always need 3 and only one might be qualified. Changing the mechanics schedule to meet the needs would change the other mechanic's schedules.

I guess I don't know what you're wanting. If it were on this schedule then only the mechanic could do it because the electrician would sacrifice the position which would leave no electricians. Everything would have to be shifting around to give everyone a fair chance, unless just 1 mechanic is fit to be a super. If just 1 electrician and just 1 welder were fit as well, then it would get interesting but narrow down the people who were able and you would probably always be left with just that 1 person so you wouldn't have to really choose. But I am still a little confused by exactly what you are wanting.

Alright I think I got it figured out. The 10's with strikethroughs mean they are able to be a fill in/supervisor. So if this week the supervisor had thursday off, that means either welder or any 1 mechanic would be able to serve as the super's replacement. You could simply say which person needs to be the replacement but for now I'm just showing you all the options.

I'm gonna guess at this cause I'm on a roll with messing around with spreadsheets so if I am right, maybe this will work. The blue ones are fill ins/supervisors.

Are you saying out of the 8 workers, 1 of them will be a supervisor/fill in? So this whole schedule needs to revolve around 8 people? That would be entirely doable I just need to figure out exactly what your scenario is. I was thinking there were a few other people being supervisors who just happened to be able to do the other work.

I guess I mean do the fill ins need 40 hours? I can't make that work at all. You say they only fill in 1 day a week which works out but there doesn't seem to be a way to give 2 fill ins 40 hours each.

I'd like to hear more about this supervisor who fills in positions. Until then here is what I came up with without him factored in. Just shift the people down the list so guy 1 becomes guy 2 the next week. Ok I just figured out what you meant, I think, is this what you want or do both of those fill in's somehow need 40 hours in too?

If it wasn't hanging there would be no point to holding onto it......... It taxes your whole body to get on it and act like you're riding it when it is vertical like that. Shoulder is fine.

Things you will need:1. Dirt Bike2. Hoist3. Faith in hoist4. Quick reflexes if hoist breaks5. Health InsuranceIt's boring after I put my hands back on, I was trying to spin the bike back around.

Well for one the timing is really retarded. I put it together really fast and turned the engine backwards to hit my TDC mark, I didn't think the backlash was that significant. Apparently it is. It starts up very quick now. Takes off really nice, you can lug it a lot, but once you get over 1500 it falls on it's face. I pulled the trailer again this weekend and it was maybe 90F on the way down. It was a complete POS. Fine under 1500, absolute crap above it. I used to have an incredibly hard time hitting 900F EGT, well this time it ran at that temp the entire time. Up hills that I usually scratched the 900 mark with 15 pounds of boost, it was now at 1100 with 25-30 pounds I'm going to see where the timing is so I can find out how retarded it really is. Somehow it still got 20.5mpg with regular driving + 150 miles on the way there with the trailer, with 648 miles out of it that means 1/3 of it was pulling the trailer.

I'll put this into a little more perspective. 1 hp = 745.699872 watts. So my truck has, well you divide by 1000 so you can put it into kilowatts and my 215hp is 160kW or 160,000 watts.

Video will have to wait. I was putting together a big list of things I wanted to go over and I came up with 25 things on the pump, but I didn't have enough time in a day to get to much of it. I got some of it done but I wanted to get all of it done. We are going riding I guess today is when we are leaving so last night I had to get in a hurry and throw the truck back together. Somehow it started right up I'll take it back out on of these days and get more video. Its actually a very easy job. All you do is take 4 nuts off all the studs that bolt it to the timing case, unbolt the timing gear and pop it loose, take 1 bolt out that bolts it to a mount, and that takes care of all the bolts. Then you take the throttle cables off, oil line off, return line off (just the rubber hose needs to disconnected, the steel return line can stay on), supply line off, disconnect shutoff solenoid, and thats basically it. I did weigh it and it is right at 49 lbs, so if you have any doubts just use a little strap and a cherry picker. --- Update to the previous post... Guess I should change the title on this thread since it's becoming more than just whatever it was before. Here is a teaser pic. Shows the helix, vertical cut, timing notch (215 pump only). That is the plunger as seen through the front secondary fuel supply hole.

Let me try and shed some light on all this because I see people complain about issues like this daily and I don't know why (well I do but..). Here's my take on everything. Oh and I'm not trying to pick on you or make you look bad or anything so don't take it that way :pray:There is always going to be something you don't like. One day it's your wife's hair cut, the next day it's the president's hubcaps. For the sake of the conversation, we will say that neither of those things cost you a dime in any way shape or form. My point?, they still got your attention and they still bothered you. My boss does nothing, and makes probably 5x what I do, but it doesn't bother me because he took on the task of creating a company, he took on the risks and everything. Also, if I had a problem with him, I could just quit. Why would I stay and complain about my boss when it's his company and therefore his way of doing things, if I don't like it I should start my own company so then people I hire can complain about me, why, because people will ALWAYS complain about something. I don't really like the word complain, I see it more as people feel the need to speak out because it irritates them, rather than just complaining. Alright so lets throw money into this situation. People get cell phones who don't deserve it and that costs you money. But I don't believe it's the money that is the problem, it's the the sole fact that they are doing it, the fact that it irritates you. Do you really care that you have to pay 5 cents more? I doubt it. Do you care that they are using that 5 cents from 5 million people to be able to buy cell phones for the poor? Of course you do. But if it wasn't that thing then it would be something else. People at work complain to me all the time about how the guy with all the experience who is 60 years old (but not the boss) doesn't do anything all day. The way I see it, they wouldn't be getting anything done without him pointing them in the right direction, yet they want him to do it, which means they want him to do their job since we don't have anything else to do. But they couldn't do that job because they don't have the experience to point someone in the right direction. Which is why I roll my eyes and let them think what they want. But then those 2 come to me individually and complain about their partner. All I see is them wanting to whine about something. I found out my partner at my last job lied to me about my current job so that I wouldn't quit. Moral?, everyone likes drama. Thankfully, I work by myself and avoid it all. If you REALLY want to step back and see the big picture, think about this. You have maybe 80-90 years to live (I have 30 left based on my calculations ) and the older you get, the faster each year goes by. When you go home, you can say you were an A-hole at work, or you can go home feeling content by helping everyone and being friendly. I know guys who always go with the former and I don't see how they even sleep at night. If they ever looked at their life, what would they have to look at? Right now I am 21, I have tried to do all I can (that I have the energy for) to help as many people as I can, why do you think I keep tearing my truck apart for no reason. I want to learn more about it to help me and share it with everyone else so they know more as well, I don't like being in the dark and nobody else should have to be either. I think it's BS that there are a ton of shops who tear down these cummins' to the bone every day, injection pump and all, yet there is hardly a single video showing an actual tear down. There's pics of things here and there but I don't want to spend months piecing all the pics together that I find just so I can have a collage of crap that will get me nowhere. Being mad over that is a waste of time as well, so I skip it all and go straight to the source, my truck. They shouldn't have cell phones, no doubt everyone agrees, even the poor people deep down know they don't need it, but it's the same as the boss scenario, if you don't like it, find another job or speak with the boss about changing it. The way I see it, the boss is too big for me to speak with (the government!) so I just don't worry about any of it. If you got a way to get through to them that it is BS, then you should pursue it.