ISX

IAT temps do not make any difference at all. I get the same mileage at any IAT/air filter temp from 0-100F, I never can see a difference. Does seem to have more power with it being cold, but I am talking 10F cold, over that, all seems the same.

100% correct. It skyrockets at idle. Maybe if I had the engine fan on it, it wouldn't be as bad but mine shoots way up there.

I have a temp sensor on top of the BHAF, zip tied to it and the hotter it gets outside, the bigger the difference between ambient I see. It seems to max out at 20F difference. When ambient is 32F or less, I see no difference, pulling a trailer might get it 5F over. So I don't think a heat shield does anything.

I made an excel for this to figure out how bad I can afford. Not like I have many bills here and no time to spend any money, so just work and back driving. Trying to save for a damn house! Cost to Drive.xls

Click the paperclip and add the pics. Otherwise, just upload them to tinypic.com and paste the link here.

Just snug it up to where it won't fall off. Overly snug is fine too, yes a wrench, just snug it up so it never moves.

I think he means transfer Fritz's stuff over since I copied it all....... I copied it months ago for offline viewing. I copied his whollllllle site. --- Update to the previous post... Alright I did some more clicking and the TSB's actually still work, they seem to be part of a different subsidiary. http://dodgeram.info/tsb/index.html If you go here http://dodgeram.info/ You can click on 01, 03, 04, 05 at the very top of the page and get some info by clicking on the resulting page's headers. For example, here is after clicking on 2001 and clicking on dimensions http://dodgeram.info/2001/dimensions.html So there is still some good info there. Either way, I found the folder I saved it in so I got everything else

What is a UG? Get some hand calculated numbers. I bet you are getting 19.5 though. Thats the same resistor I used on stodg's truck and it bumped his way up there too.

Fritz's site is down or for sale or something. dodgeram.org I don't know what the deal is but that site is invaluable. I did happen to save his whole site to my computer months ago when my internet was screwy I wanted it for offline viewing so I still got it all, but I wonder what is going on with his site.

Clear coat is a layer on top of the paint. Maybe you have heard people say "my clear coat is gone!".

Mine won't lock the doors if the headlights are on or key is in the ignition. Found out the headlights part later on, called it everything in the book and just left the doors unlocked. Walked off, turned around (was night when I got in, daylight when I got to the store), said there is no way, turned headlights off, doors locked. Lets see a cadillac do that.

Well I got to thinking some more and if you can find this speaker thing in that chip, can't you desolder the speaker? Cut the printed connection that goes to it, something? --- Update to the previous post... I am only as right as the people who correct me

Looking at his sig, which one is he talking about? If it is your 12V we can fix it.. 24V, SOL

What kind of dinging do the 24V's have? Mine is a electromagnet coil that rattles these discs around. I know how to take it apart and disable it (actually on a 12V you can just take it out). I just don't know what a 24V uses.

I don't even own butt connectors Basically I am cutting the wires, and adding/removing as necessary. So the PCM wires are really long so I will cut them down, but the wires from the cab to the fuse box are short so I have to make them longer. Everything is soldered and heat shrinked. The ends of the braided sheath are also heat shrinked so it will never "unbraid". The blue tape is just there temporarily to keep them from unbraiding. I got 200FT of the braiding and 12ft of 3:1 3/16" heat shrink. I got a deal on some 14 and 12 gauge wire so I have 500FT of 14 and 12, black and red, or 2000FT. Hope its enough I got some pics since the videos aren't the greatest. In this pic (airbag sensor) you can see what I have been doing. I have a couple inches of the stock wiring, then a solder/heat shrink, then my wire. You can see where the heat shrink is, right before the wire turns into red wire. Wires coming to common location by drivers side firewall. White spots are dirt from a battery I stuck in there to test everything Wire going into the bushings. Another shot of the wires by firewall.

How much side to side play are we talking? Mine slides between the snap rings 1/16" or so. I don't know how the 24V's are set up. I would like to hear more about this though. --- Update to the previous post... http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=_X7WS2ZjYag

I don't even wanna look at a 24V Keep your mess to yourself I finally got the front end completely pulled in, Horns/Air Bags/Headlights/Turn Signals/Fog Lights.. That was the hard part so now I just have the easier stuff to do. I do still have to mess with the sensors on the engine, figuring out how to route them. I'm gonna kick myself to work on it every night and hopefully it will be done by a week from now. I really like how it is turning out so far. http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=5AsxLrjFemQ Oh and the bushings/grommets with the wires coming out worked good because I kept everything together, so each thing is in it's own category. They are drilled out like a pyramid, so here is what I mean:

Not a dumb question at all, I had to sit there and think about it lol. The rocker arms will slide side to side a tiny bit because they are just in between snap rings (hmm, maybe not on 24V's), that isn't the critical part, they have to "rock" properly with the proper valve lift and everything. The only way I know how to check if a pushrod is bent is to take them all out, find a flat surface and roll them. I suppose if you had a dial indicator you could set the valve lash on the engine so everything is the same, then put the dial indicator on the same spot of the rocker (either the valve side or pushrod side) and check to make sure the lift is the same on all the valves, since a bent one wouldn't lift as much. I read your other posts and you were thinking there shouldn't be any play when you set your valves, well there should be the amount of play that the valve lash is set to. So when the exhaust valve is not in use, it should have 0.020" play between the top of the valve and the rocker, it will feel loose but that is normal. The rocker assembly itself would be the rockers attaching to the rocker shaft (guess I never read what thats called) and I think on the 24V you have a bolt on every rocker. Not sure how you would know if it was loose other than just going through with a torque wrench on every bolt to make sure none have loosened up. There are only 2 bolts per rocker shaft since the shafts are individual for each piston (though that pic looks like the intake and exhaust are split, so there would be only one bolt per rocker assembly, I'm not sure). The torque spec for those bolts (seem to be the "rocker pedestal bolts") is 27 ft. lbs.

I figured that would be the only thing you were thinking, and no it's not an issue. The cam gear holds the VP gear, but even then you could just leave the gear puller on the VP gear.

I finally got a weekend off so I got some things done. Well not too much, fell asleep part of the day :doh:I got the passenger side headlight/turn signal/airbag all pulled in so that is taken care of. The biggest thing I wanted to get done TODAY was putting the stuff on the hood. It actually was a lot easier than I thought it was going to be. I thought up a design to mount it and it is so solid that I actually only mounted it with 2 bolts rather than the 4 I was planning on doing. I could pull as hard as I could on just one bolt, so I made another one diagonal to that one to hold the plate in position and it is solid as a rock. I did some guesswork on where everything should be so it wouldnt slam down on the brake reservoir or stuff like that. After mounting it, I moved everything off the cowl and shut the hood, I don't think it could be any more perfect. The intake horn should fit where I have nothing mounted, hopefully giving me 4" or so clearance in case I want to mount stuff to that spot in the future. I want to get rid of that power distribution box but that will just have to wait. Going to try and get a lot done tomorrow.

I don't see why you couldn't. Maybe I am missing something though, what makes you think you can't?

Standing in front of the bumper you would turn it clockwise. Normally that would tighten, but it is left handed, so it would loosen. Clockwise-LoosenCounterclockwise-TightenMost people just spin the fan on and hand tighten it, as the engine kinda works it tighter on its own.

Go look at your fan nut and you will see why you have to order thin wrenches. There is no room between the fan and the pulley for regular sized tools.

Mine says it on the door sticker and the sticker under the hood. I would think yours would be the same silver color as mine, unless they used different silvers through the years. My code is PFA.

I know the difference between EGT and combustion temp, I have a calculator showing exactly what the heat of compression is. The point I am trying to make is that I think the winter front is degrading performance/mpg. Maybe not mpg, but definitely performance. I didn't dyno it or anything, but with it off and me just driving around with frigid temps, I was constantly wondering what was going on. I know the feel of the power it has very well and I was expecting the usual power, so when the butt-meter spiked, I knew something was going on and all I had done was taken the winter front off. I need more solid proof but the colder it gets, the faster it is. It was -10F a while ago and that thing was an absolute animal. I never got that kind of power with the winter front on. Remember that mine is completely static, so the only thing that changed was colder air going into the engine. Another thing to think about with cold temps, the engine is at 200F or so, I don't think your going to lose any heat to the cylinder walls at operating temp.. You lose a little bit or else the engine wouldn't have the thermostat open, but hardly. I believe it is well within it's range to burn the fuel efficiently. According to my calculator, going from 0F to 100F is means going from 1000-1300 on compression temps, still well above 400F. This would mean the colder temps (1000) would take more time for the fuel to ignite, retarding timing. I think that is why the 24V spends so much time advancing it. As the fuel gets hot, it ignites faster, so timing advances. I think the 24V determines how much to advance it based on IAT. This is why on really cold days, it knocks really bad, but in summer it is not as bad. Now, fooling it brings our mileage back up, but how if it has cold fuel that is being shot in way to late. I think the fuel gets warmed up a lot, up to the same point as it gets to in the summer (since the engine is 200F in both instances) so the fuel goes in at the same temp. In other words, I think the programmers of the engine screwed up. Now there might be something with emissions for cold temp driving that they did, so they might have not screwed up. I think they did though, if the mileage drops THAT much in winter, you can't tell me it's not a screwup. I also don't see how it screws up so badly as to drop you more MPG than I do pulling a 4k lb enclosed trailer. I think they just thought "oh the fuel is cold, lets advance the timing a lotttt so it has time to ignite, to the point that it is very inefficient". They should have tested more.