wil440

A lot of the time fuel filters/pipes /connections are easy and just fire them back together using a little engine oil or fuel on O rings and keeping everything clean but then you get the bad deal where nothing you do will make the thing seal, my sons Peugeot Boxer tipper is a good example, last time I did a FF on it it took ME 3 attempts to get it to seal to the point of it's now got a complete new housing on it and there was nothing visually wrong with the one I took off (still went in the bin though) I've seen well meaning people clean filter heads, bowls etc with brake cleaner which is all good then fit an O ring then fit the bowl all bone dry, (this is worse when the bowl screws on) all it needs is a part of the bowl to catch the seal doesn't necessarily do any damage but It can turn a part of the seal with the bowl just enough to stretch a bit of it, this can make the O ring thinner just in one area and depending on the seal crush you have a air leak IN. Lube the seal with a little fuel or engine oil it will seal much better BUT don't overtighten as with lube it will tighten much more. When I started 44 years ago all bowls were either aluminium or steel, when plastic was first starting to be used you only overtightened 1 or 2 before you got the feel for how tight

I'd go 7 x 10's but my trans is stock so I'm sitting on the fence for now while I spread a layer of thought on it If pop pressure is set at the very high end of the specs then as the injectors settle in then it doesn't drop below the minimum. 320bar ish versus 290 bar IIRC Thing that bothers me a little being in the UK is high PP equals a harder life for the VP as that's one item I do not want wear out, but arguably our fuel is better so who knows In you situation I would have got the quad first, loaded a towing tune for stock off of here on it, stuck that on Level 9 and see what you thought and if you felt you needed more then do the rest.

My truck tows most of the time from a 7klb ish work trailer with tools/welders/bottles in the bed to a 34ft 5th Stock injectors, stock turbo, 315 tyres, 3.55's, 47re, mechanical lift pump, cat fuel filter and housing and a Quad, with my work trailer on checked on a weighbridge it's a total of 14300lbs truck and trailer, this was without my mig, generator and cutting bottles in the bed I never have a problem towing, I just lock out OD whenever I'm towing no matter what the grade or road, ends up at about 2100rpm at 55 to 60, EGT's aren't high, coolant and trans temps all ok. Yes I'll admit grades in the UK are mostly less than yours Quad has a towing tune on it I got from here, I use it on LVL9 of 9 never messed with tuning as I do not have the time to spend or more to the point I have other things to spend time on first, and for now I'm happy with it. I'm due injectors but really don't want to make a bad choice and mess up what is a nice towing truck I don't drive hard and why would I in a truck that's 24 years old and has to run everyday, I don't need or want 500hp due to a stock 47re

If that was me I'd use it as an ideal time to fit a Quad Only saying as I love mine I also understand the feeling of repairing the impossible I also understand the cost of a quad is a ouch, mine wasn't far off a £1000 to get to my door here in the UK with our stupid taxes but worth every penny for me

I know what you mean about the plastic fading to a grey but at the moment on my truck it doesn't matter as being a work truck only the rain cleans it so the grey plastic melts in with the quarry mud I'm determined to put up a big workshop this year so 3500 first then 2500 for some much needed work on both

I've never seen a factory fuel filter as the previous owner of my truck removed it and didn't both to fit anything else, luckily it was only a very short time before I bought it and it wasn't MOTed anyway so wasn't being used, I fitted a Cat fuel filter complete so I have no idea what the bowl or drain looks like but I will say from experience when you remove the drain check the seating area, threaded area, and the whole bowl area for hairline cracks as It's really common for threaded drains to be overtightened especially when the bowl is plastic, and damage to the O ring seat area

When I first read that, that is just what I thought BUT, modifying the statement somewhat to " add dye to engine oil of a totally different colour" and another totally different colour to the fuel using dye in the fuel would work great if the engine oil was black and ready for changing, dye EO black and use a really bright colour for fuel, not sure though how expensive the dye is Although I could be talking utter rubbish as I've never had to use dye looking for fuel leaks as in large construction plant is that destructive to have fuel in EO that you just dive in and change parts, starting with low pressure fuel pump (Cat as it's driven and leaks internal) injectors/injector seals and any tubes then high pressure fuel pump and then head, although LP FP or injectors usually gets it

All good advice, on spotting what if anything is leaking under the rocker cover you should be able to see if it's crossovers or injectors especially if you have a helper on the key and as M34M says be quick, I've never had to use dye in fuel but my guess is it's a good bright colour, A/C dye here is bright frog green Good luck

Yes someone did me a big favour, where it was there are quite a few allotments, these are areas of local council ground that is leased to people to grow food this is rather big in the UK and I'll bet it was someone who was there or going to/from there or just a dog walker as not much else around

Yes it's www.nextdoor.co.uk but I've tried to use the site this morning and I have to say it is garbage, I'd only ever visited a few times but decided to set up a business page, kept autofilling the wrong address so I spat the dummy and deleted my account You have the same just .com

I'm a member of a neighbour website for where I live and the next village I'll be posting a thank you and hopefully whoever it was pulled it out of the road reads it

That will depend on where oil is flung around, some engines it's easy some not and I admit I've not tried this on a 24v so have no idea on the amount of oil flung everywhere Worth a try in my book The very most important thing first off is inspection, time taken here saves ££££ or in your case $$$$ try to find the root cause before spending

if fuel is leaking out then air is leaking in and by more than the fuel you see leaking out I recently went to a Volvo L150E loading shovel that wouldn't start, starter was burnt out, no problems there BUT the clown that drives it said "oh it takes some starting in the morning" I asked how and why and he said it just cranks a while Fuel banjo on the ECM as the ECM is fuel cooled was just wet and I mean just wet, 2 new copper washers and a new starter and job done Due to injection pressures if a crossover tube was leaking air back in when stopped the engine oil would have fuel dilution When you pull injectors it is normal to see the bodies have fuel on them as you just broke the seal by pulling them out and and any fuel still in the head leakoff passage runs down the injector body as you pull it Fix the fuel bowl first then see

or crossover tubes As Mike says if you don't see anything under the RC it's time to check the front seal on the VP Hopefully and I'll admit I've never had the RC off of mine but hopefully you get enough time before getting swamped in engine oil to have a good inspection for fuel leakage, as I said before get someone on the key for no other reason that if oil is going everywhere at least the stop is quick and you can then use cardboard to stop some of it, don't over think it the worst that can happen is oil goes everywhere, spend more time inspecting beforehand but if the head is clean you won't see anything

If there is a clean track due to fuel washing deposits away leaving it not running won't change that Yes start it with the RC off after changing the oil but after the inspection IF you find a leak and the motor hasn't run for long the new oil will be fine unless it's leaking by the gallon

Everything you need to look at relating to injectors is inside the rocker cover so remove the cover first before changing the oil as SOMETIMES with fuel leakage you can see clean tracks on parts where the fuel has washed away black oil/deposits so inspect everything around the crossover tubes and injectors very carefully, you just might get lucky and spot a clean or cleaner area which will at the very least give you the heads up on where to look when it is running. The fuel in the oil could also have cleaned away all deposits or the engine oil could have been clean to start with Also while inspecting check for any sign of oil film breakdown, on load areas like tips of valves or rocker shaft pivot areas look for gall marks, for the rocker shaft pivot area if you pick a valve that has clearance you might be able to move the rocker over a bit on the shaft to see a small part of the shaft, just try moving it over with your fingers not a lever as if you have slack valve clearances sometimes the pushrod pops out from under the rocker, shiney and bright with no marks is what you want to see Once you have inspected it then change the oil, you should be able to refill with the RC off. For the start bit I would get a helper on the key as it could be messy, some engines running with the RC off fling oil everywhere some it goes either one way or the other on a ram my guess is the fan blows it all over the place at least with a helper off is quick

TBH I have given a MD some thought as there has been some really big finds here recently but as for the northern tip of Scotland there's not a deal there I wonder is it possible to make a MD yourself, I did have one when I was a kid, not a very good one as I recall, we had 2 fields and one of them had been excavated to put a tunnel underneath which Robert Louis Stevenson designed and built for a coal railway, the same guy as the Stevensons Rocket train but I never found anything other than bottle tops and nails

Best thing to do is change the oil, I'd be dropping the filter and at least tip it upside down to drain or better fit new then by all means run it a little with the rocker cover off, might make a mess but at least you can check crossovers as suggested, also check around each injector as if O rings are leaking it can come up the side of the injectors From experience of fuel dilution it takes a good amount of fuel for longer than 5 miles to damage bearings/crank bearing in mind service intervals on heavy plant which I work on mostly is now 500hrs and if drivers are lazy and don't check oil level it can be weeks

No it's not a race..... See below. No idea what 100mph is in K either I do know a K is 5/8th of a mile but UK is miles That's the very trip, 500 miles around the tip of Scotland

Totally different area of the planet but we're thinking of taking our 5th to Denmark around May for my brother in laws 70th, not sure yet as the ferry is a huge amount direct to Denmark Could get a ferry to Brussels then just drive north I suppose but the cost of fuel will end up being the same or more as direct ferry If that doesn't happen then the Scottish 500

Been doing a R/H/S rocker panel, step and wheel arch on a 04 Ford Transit van for a customer, started Friday morning and by 2.00pm ish I'd run out of MIG gas so off to get another gas cylinder, It's a bit tight on our drive at the moment due to small plant, trailers, 2 Rams, piles of logs etc and while reversing and turning hard to get out of our gates I just caught a wall, took a very quick look out of the side window and no scrapes on the wall so off I go. The gas supplier I use is about 6 miles away and after about a mile I heard something, I assumed it was the 2 gas cylinders in the bed which were ratcheted to my 5th wheel rails moving around so I pulled over once I found somewhere which was about another 1/2 mile further on after a left turn. Anyway I got the gas and got home not once going around the front of the truck until home....... bumper (front fender) looked different...... no top pad, pad is gone, totally ripped of leaving all the mounting tags still in the bumper, had to get on with the ford so once it got too dark I came in and checked online for pads or custom bumper plans Went for breakfast at a all you can eat full english at a pub this morning..... same route for the first 3 miles, low and behold there is my pad propped up against a dry stone wall with a piece of cardboard sat in front of it with yesterdays date and a time on it with my reg number. I must have run over it, no damage though other than no mounting tags ( I'll bolt it to the bumper) whoever pulled it out of the road has saved me a lot of ££ Also on the plus side I changed gas suppliers and went with my supplier that I use for oxy acetylene so took the old cylinder back to my old supplier and got £102 refund on the cylinder Like the thought of a custom bumper though but would need to make it myself as shipping

If you have fuel in the engine oil how much higher up the dipstick is it ? how much fuel ? If there is a fair amount of fuel in the engine oil you would get more "vapour" coming out of the breather for the reasons below 1. Much higher engine oil level, this can mean the crank is beating the oil a bit like whisking eggs this puts more oil/fuel mist airborne inside the sump 2. Fuel in engine oil makes it thinner and the fuel will vaporize out as the oil gets warmer, this will end up out the breather If it was me ( I do have a lot of engine oil in stock) I'd be dropping the oil and refilling then run it for a bit parked and see what the blowby is with fresh oil, yes I know you haven't fixed the fuel into engine oil but you should get a good enough run out of it to check especially if you have BB cold then compare that with BB cold on new oil Also I see you have a Quad, what is the engine load ? and is it stable I can't remember what live data shows for engine/fuel but that's one of the first things I would try, I have a S/O Modis and any problems with my truck that's the first thing I grab, I'd be looking for anything injection related and are the readings stable but as I said I can't remember what is shown, I could connect mine and check One other thing, don't run it at all with fuel in the engine oil..... fastest way other than NO engine oil to wipe crank and bearings, a tiny bit of fuel is kindof ok but it sounds like you past tiny

I quoted what you said as it may also be relevant to me Cavitation is a phenomenon in which the static pressure of a liquid reduces to below the liquid's vapour pressure, leading to the formation of small vapor-filled cavities in the liquid. When subjected to higher pressure, these cavities, called "bubbles" or "voids", collapse and can generate shock waves

I bought a large modular fuse box from a junk yard out of a Ford Mondeo, don't know what a Mondeo would be called over there, each module is maybe 3" x 6" with maybe 10 fuses or so and maybe 4 or 5 relay sockets, 3 of these modules that snap together each with a lid, got it with some of the loom so no pins to mess with just soldered joints and heatshrink, right now I only use one

140 microns isn't really large mesh, the Cat prefilter or screen is designed to take out lumps as @ddmk6 says and would add zero restriction as it's more like a very coarse pan scourer or rocker cover breather oil separator