wil440

I know what you're saying but it is a whole different ball game here, most that have been imported are 1500's, the people that buy them don't tow trailers full of wood/cows/horses/boats etc etc etc, due to fuel costs here they are just a car and usually never used for what they were designed for, here the work pickup is and it banes me to say always from Japan ie Mitsubishi, Nissan or Toyota or EU as the VW Amarok is everywhere, there is also other EU car makers getting into pickups even I think merc Ford have a range of r/h/d trucks but if the rest of Turds vehicles are anything to go by then thats a no. So for here a 1500 ram makes the rest look like toys He's seeing one tomorrow, 2000 2nd gen 1500 2wd 5.2 QCSB owner is driving up from Brighton maybe 200 plus miles, going to fill it with fuel and gas (it's on propane too which drops fuel costs by 1/2) and give him 2k. it will easily tow his work welding trailer (he starts working for himself next week and a RR is no more use than a chocolate fireguard) The ram has had a rear end rebuild as you do, trans has been rebuilt front end rebuilt and truck painted, my brother has told the owner who specialises in RR rubbish that I'll be looking it over and dropping my Modis on it and I've had 2gen ram for 18 years and If I find anything he takes it back.....

Finally I might have convinced my brother to get a Ram There is a Gen 2 2wd diesel QCLB on ebay right now but while the guy is interested in my brothers RR he wants cash 2nd gen 1500 5.2 looks good and clean this guy would throw 2k and swap Finally quite local (50miles away) a 3rd gen 1500 5.9V8 QCSB, wrapped in bright green, pictures looked great so off we go, owner assured us it was great, got there and the thing had been lower right to the ground, front edge of the fuel tank was 4" off of the road, sleeping policeman (as a speed hump is called here) would have ripped the tank off. Chassis at the rear was notched and badly, bed floor cut out and replaced again badly with aluminium, whole interior painted black including the leather seats and also including the drivers side rip in the leather. Aluminium radiator with 2 electric fans, no inner front fenders, air con removed, air filter box removed and a pancake filter housing with a K&N Some time and money had been spent on the exhaust with a diverter valve and stainless silencer so quiet and loud BUT CAT removed and I know 100% from experience that a 5.9 petrol Ram without a CAT will not pass emissions test here in the UK as I took my 3500 for a quick check without a cat when mine fell apart. I don't like Gen 3 2wd 1500's at all so I wasn't really that bothered but if it had been a gen 2 I wouldn't have been able to hold my tongue,although I did tell him that he'd reduced it to scrap

LR = Landrover LR and RR used to be the best 4x4 you could buy here IF you wanted the vehicle to work, the series 1, 2 and 3 offroad where unbeatable, on road they were noisy,slow and underpowered and horrible to drive until 4 low was engaged and offroad The 90's and 110's were better both on and off road, I used to compete in trials in a 1983 110, I have lots of pictures somewhere, in one I'm driving through water 6" up the windscreen, it did have a snorkel to the roof line Early Range Rovers were good too, here they made a great base for a landrover by using the RR 100" chassis and cutting a series 2 or 3 body to fit, or make a pickup out of a RR They went rubbish after owned by Ford

Your hearing must be really bad there mate...... no mention of reinforced, it is just plastic, melt your soda bottle, dye it black and thats about it Apparently it's a known problem, original part was made too thin Now these designers who BTW call themselves engineers (couldn't engineer there way out of a paper bag) couldn't figure out that plastic/heat/expansion spells failure, it is all bolted to an aluminium head and I'll bet the two expand at just the same rate NOT

well I agree with all the above.... finally got it off last night, it's wet with oil on the outside and a local LR specialist had already took a look and said straight away that was the problem. seperate areas to it, 6 intake runners, 3 injectors tubes, these sit in the head but pass through this cover/intake manifold, camshaft cover https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-LR032724--SelectedCurrency-1?gclid=Cj0KCQjw8IaGBhCHARIsAGIRRYrkU39k2cVyeCSvvNzocxZpQFVBLVFxyT6Cv6M_gMBfRye86-Kw5UoaAh2eEALw_wcB https://www.autoexpress.co.uk/land-rover/range-rover/100621/tdv6-27-litre-diesel-engine Worst thing is he's been talking to a guy about a deal on a 2000 ram 1500 5.2, yes I know a 1500 but hey start somewhere I say. About half way into getting this cover off the guy messages my brother and said he'd swap the ram for the RR and give my brother £1500 cash, we had gone too far to put it back together by this time it's a gen 2 2wd QCSB, recently painted, trans rebuilt, rear axle rebuilt, heater core, intake gasket, radiator, headers, twin exhaust and a load more, I'm trying to tell him compared to his RR the ram would be easy to maintain and another guy with a early gen 3 2wd with the 5.9 v8 Here's another...... we go on about cool diesel and lowering diesel temps, this thing has common rail, both left and right sit right above the exhaust and egr valves, remove the common rail and then strip the egr valve in a gap around 2" wide because one of the cover bolts is behind the mounting bracket for the egr and another bolt for the bracket wont come out until the egr motor is removed. This job in the RR specialists close by is over £1k

My brother has a 2012 range rover 6 cylinder V6 diesel, he did about 6 hours work with me last night servicing and repairs to a Cat 950H on a site I look after in return for me doing a fault on a range rover POS Fault is low boost code P1247 turns out the intake manifold right hand side (plastic FFS) is cracked, believe it or not it is also the cam cover, it has took 8 hrs to get the cover off, no access to anything at all, brother tells me IF the 2 turbos (1 each side) need replacing it's £5K to take the body off to get to them and after looking this is the way to do turbos on this junk. I have been a proper UK apprentiship trained diesel mechanic for 43 years and the idiots that designed rubbish this should be shot, just utter mechanical garbage, I have never in my life seen so many sensors in such a small space. here's one, a bolt screws into a bracket holding lines the head is 1/4" from the bulkhead right under the scuttle panel where the wipers poke through, screws in from the BACK, bolt is 1" long and it pokes through the bracket and stops the whole intake/cam cover from coming up and off, if it's undone it never comes out far enough to just lift off the cover, might just stove a hole in the bulkhead to put the new piece back on. here's a tip from the UK...... DO NOT ever buy any Range Rover newer than mid 90's cos boy are they dog s### and if you come across one with the driver thinking he's the dogs just laugh and smile cos they are really a joke Trying to get my brother into a 2nd gen ram but I'm struggling with it as he's clown

I guess it's no different John to anyone in the USA owning a Landrover, Jag, bentley, etc...... why you would want to is another matter, landrover that is, I've always said on here if anyone needs anything from here I'll gladly help as have people on here helped me with parts

Thanks for that, website for me at least has a English button so all in English, They also ship internationally so perfect... website bookmarked thank you

Just about what I figured, here in the UK our Vat is 20% though, If you don't mind me asking who repaired the PSG as It would be handy to bookmark a website for that, never know if there's anyone here in the uk that would do it until you need it done

I've been watching this closely, $1300 is way better than getting one from the USA as it would be higher than 1300 just to get the pump here once cost of pump, shipping, duty and Vat are factored in then as the guy says either the core has to be paid or return the old pump.... more cost. I'd guess around $1800 to $2000 all done to get a replacement from the USA I just got a box of closeout stuff from Rock.... nothing heavy, shipping well over twice the cost of whats in the box, and the box was the size of an unfolded laptop

I'd be checking the relief valve in the back of the PS pump, mine stuck open slightly and caused the power steering and brakes to have very little power at all, could be possible that yours the first time stuck shut (max pressure) Or it was just time for the hydroboost to leak, this time on your truck it does seem like the valve is sticking. I actually replaced my PS pump with a reconditioned unit BEFORE the valve stuck, on inspection it hadn't been replaced as it hadn't done anywhere near the amount of miles to get scored like it was, I polished it with very fine wet and dry and it's never stuck since, I also did the valve mod thats on here somewhere which intails drilling out the small delivery hole a little but I had a spare valve anyway that I could use if things went pear shaped, I wouldn't recommend the valve mod unless another valve is on hand. Valve is on the back of the pump under where the pressure line connects, just disconnect the pressure line and then the bigger boss it screws into is the valve, remove that and you will see the small nut with a filter inside, clean the filter as that can cause bad steering, then check the actual valve.

Yes John that is correct, 2 returns main one from the fuel pressure regulator goes to the old fuel supply line connection and the T is onto it's original connection both at the basket I have a draw straw into the basket for fuel supply

Also Don't do as I did and just give them a quick visual and "oh they are fine" one wire in the middle of the bunch had just one strand of copper left, 3 days after the "quick visual" I took the terminal off and found the bad wire

The main return from the pressure regulator uses the old fuel supply line into the basket, the T return was to start with the original line going to the basket until that cracked near the trans, it is now 3/8th rubber but still goes to the basket onto it's original connection

As I have everything made to put my return into the neck I'll get on it and get it done and see what happens to my temps but as I said my fuel temps are low, highest I ever saw was 118F last summer towing my 5th back from Cumbria (North West England right on the Scottish border) 300 miles or so and that was 20 mile from home through a hilly built up area (City) My temps are usually sub 100F easy, I will also check what my pump body temp is

my fuel pressure pegs at about 22 to 25, it is only idle that is 5 to 7, any and I do mean any rpm's over idle sends it up and fast, I would have to check but IIRC there is 2 returns with the DTT pump, one from the back of the head which is the Head and VP and one from the reg which is the system in general. As for low rpm and temps, due to fuel cost here I lug my truck all day every day, motorway driving I'm 1100 to 1500 all the time, it just ambles along nice (we don't have all that many big grades here), I drive watching rpm, speed, trans and egt's, I work for myself paid travel so I'm in no rush at all and we have speed cameras everywhere My fuel goes to the basket at present, I have the parts made to stick it in the filler but not done it yet

Just a thought, has anyone tried to reverse bleed using the brakes, assuming of course the fluid is the same, just connect the nearest front caliper bleed nipple to the bleed on the clutch slave with a peice of clear tubing, open both and very slowly press the brake pedal, if not very slowly then what happens is the tubing gets blown off, also lid off of the clutch master Of course a pressure bleed pump does the same but it is a cost to buy, tubing is nearly free Here some Ford transits are hard to bleed the clutch and this works every time

I fully understand what you say and what has been recommended but things change.... earth was thought to be flat and the centre of the universe once. If you remember I got into testing return flow because I was bothered about 5 to 7psi on a mechanical gauge, this is with the DTT pump, I even pulled it to peices to check if it was ok, nothing wrong with it at all, renewed the overflow just to test with a new one, no change, I then had the return line crack at a chassis bracket alongside the trans so replaced that with 3/8th rubber fuel line, bear in mind my return line from the back of the head is as it was and the fuel reg uses the old supply line, it is the line from the back of the head/VP that I checked for flow Me personally If anyone is having fuel problems whether it be low pressure, high temps, failed VP whatever I'd advise to disconnect the return at the T back left of the head and run a rubber line from that into the neck to test return BEFORE doing anything else, the line there is a push fit and a rubber line of the correct size does push over the stub it would take maybe 1/2hr to do and say 6ft of rubber fuel line, this way the state of the lift pump is known good or bad. I don't believe every truck is the same take mine and Lorens for instance why have I got 5 to 7 at idle (20+ at 2k+)and low fuel temps and Loren is 17 and high temps, all pressure is is a measure of a restriction anyway. Surely the correct advice is to get good quality clean cool fuel to the VP in sufficient quantity as to allow the system to send most back to tank to cool the VP.... note I didn't mention pressure. Maybe John can spread some thought onto this Friendly debate

Air temp is around 26c which here is a good summer day, I have never seen 150f for fuel temps, I think fuel pressure is a bit of a waste of time measuring as it is just a measure of restriction, I can build some serious fuel pressure on my truck IF I restrict the return line with brake line calipers (brake line seal tool) Actually your truck and my truck couldn't be further apart on fuel pressure and fuel temperature, my FP at idle is 5 to 7, yes at say 2k my FP is closer to 20psi but as I have said at 5 to 7 I HAVE tested return flow and while I didn't measure it I can say I'm happy with it

I'm absolutly gobsmacked.... what part of 5 to 7 psi at idle with good return flow to tank don't people get AND fuel temps sub 100f. tested.... tested ..... tested and tested some more, this is not thery looking at a picture this is tested Go ahead and perpetuate the 14psi "before fuel is returned to tank" and "no cooling" I know from testing that is absolute rubbish, hands up who has checked with the return into either a bucket or the filler neck, if you've done neither then you don't know for sure, i've done the latter over at least a day changing lines, changing where the reg is, changing filters, changing everything I can think of.... same conclusion, same result, 5 to 7 at idle and way more than enough back to tank and my fuel temps back that right up. Go ahead and test it is really easy especially as like my truck the return was fubared one other to bear in mind here..... the VP44 pump has been used extensively here in the UK and Europe, parts seem to be cheaper here..... BUT while it's reputation is not perfect it is in now way as bad as in the USA and no one here bothers a rats *** about fuel temps, or lift pumps, or fuel level..... but it is not bolted onto a million mile engine either

WT ...... in my testing with the fuel return disconnected from the basket and placed into the filler neck with engine at idle and a fuel pressure of 5 to 7ish I had/have really good fast return flow to the point now of not bothering at all about 5 to 7 at idle, I didn't put it into a bucket to measure at the time as here in the UK fuel is too costly to waste My fuel temps show that there is good return cooling flow, I did 90 mile yesterday towing my mobile workshop trailer..... fuel temps at their highest was 95F and this was once off of the motorway and onto small backroads, motorway driving was sub 90F. Also I have a DTT mechanical fuel lift pump which sits in cooler airflow, contrary to where it's sited it does not get any radiator heat as it's just a little lower but I suppose the pump could suffer from heat soak from the sump face it bolts too So my fuel test didn't show it piddling into a bucket, quite the opposite, also having a mechanical FP my pressure only goes one way with rpm, up, so idle is the lowest psi the system ever see's hence why I only tested at idle. Also one other thing to add.... the only way I could get to the 14psi at idle recommended was to clamp off the return line to restrict it somewhat, not totally closed off though as I soon figured the DTT was capable of blowing the face off of my 30psi gauge, this I will add was only done while testing and for a second or 2 at most just to test what happened. My return line is not the factory line as that split so I replaced it with 3/8th fuel hose. I'm ok with 5 to 7 psi on MY truck as I know from testing and fuel temps that I have more than enough flow back to tank, I would urge anyone that is having fuel problems or high fuel temps to pull the return line off and test it into the filler neck and what bothered me about this magical 14psi before fuel returns to tanks is 1. on my truck that is not right. 2 on my truck the only way to get to 14 was to restrict the return which defeats the object. For the record.... this is on MY truck and I'm not suggesting for one minute that 5 to 7 psi is good on anyone elses truck, I just know it's good on mine

Have you quantified the contamination, as in say change engine oil and filter run for a set amount of hours, earthmoving stuff is usually 100hrs but that only takes a couple of weeks usually and it depends on how much (if it's bucketing in don't bother) If it is a low level of contamination you wouldn't see it if it was a crossover tube and might only be leaking when really hot or high injection pressure For fuel to be washing down a bore and getting by rings you would know as it would run like a dog with misfires and smoke but you could always pull injectors and check with a bore scope, tops of pistons will be cleaner and just look different or bad cylinder shiney maybe wet carbon, good cylinders matt or dull carbon As you've changed injectors and crossover tubes and if your happy they are not leaking I'd be sending the VP off for a bench test

That is exactly the result I saw when I was messing about with my truck trying to find out why I had 5 to 7 ish psi at idle, I also ran a temp hose into the filler neck to test, plenty of flow to the point of I don't bother about 5 to 7psi at idle anymore, my return fuel still goes into the basket ( made the filler neck T but haven't fitted it yet) fuel temps never go to 120F

Last weekend doing the hinge bar I was around 6tonne 6000kg total truck and trailer or 13k lbs ish, Thing is here no one Police included know what it is really, doesn't look overweight, here my truck shouldn't be over 3.5tonne (just the truck) it can be but I'd need to use a tachograph, 3.5tonne is classed as PLG or Private Light Goods. When I SVA checked my 3500 when I first imported it it was weighed and the guy said hey you can't legally carry 6 people in it because it will then be overweight, he passed it and i've never bothered about it since, once carried in the bed 2 2200lb boxes of brake discs and pads and calipers I imported into Heathrow airport, all Gen 2 ram stuff for a military vehicle serving in Afganistan, that just about levelled my 3500 and didn't look over weight but it was SVA test is a check on imported vehicles to make sure they are a standard, pickups are just lights, weights, seatbelts, amber indicators to the front and front side, basic stuff no where near like a car test, you have to remove the original weight plate and stamp a new one that says GVW 3.5tonne, shouldn't tow anything over 3.5 either but again no one knows and I have all the licenses up to unlimited heavy haulage so my license covers me anyway

I'd say air bags, most big truck stuff here now is bagged on the rear