Old_Sparky

The Hopkins sound more like what I need. With dark windows and a camper shell, backing up at work at night in the rain can be a real pain. I need something that can see wide angle to help me out, not just something to help hook up a trailer once or twice a year.

I replaced my linkage with the 2009 version. Much tighter, much larger parts. It was a simple bolt-on replacement from the tie rod ends to the pitman arm. I did not replace the pitman arm.

The best method I have found takes 30 minutes or less. 1000 grit, 1500 grit, 2000 grit wet sanding. $10 bucks for three packs at Wally World, gives you enough to do 5 or more sets of headlights.

Mine had 3157's in them. I changed them out for the RetroSolutions LED backup lights bulbs. Much brighter now. Ended up putting one of the old backup bulbs in as a turn signal bulb later. One advantage of them being the same (3157).

I have been told by several people that the best way to prevent them from fogging up again after cleaning is to put a coat of polyurethane on them. I replaced mine with a set from LMC instead.

I have had my Ultragage for about a year now. It has worked well for me. I had to calibrate it for mileage, and find that as long as I drive the same route about the same way it does real well. If I go crazy with the driving, it does not do as well. One problem I have found is that once in a great while it won't turn on. I have to unplug it from the OBDII port, then plug it back in and it works fine once again.

I drive a semi all day long, rowing the 10 speed as needed. Way too much shifting to put in my truck. unless that 10 speed is synchronized, I can shift my NV4500 a whole lot faster.

Simple problem, the park switch is broke and forgets to tell the wiper motor where to stop.

I am ready to upgrade the front disk brakes on my truck now that I have the 17" rims/tires on it. What recommendations do you have for new disks/pads? My budget will only allow a total of $300 for rotors, brackets and pads, so please keep this in mind. Fancy rotors may be nice to have, but the budget is my limitation.

I am looking at some 125 hp injectors this summer. I am figuring that if I turn the Juice all the way down and keep my foot out of it I should be able to minimize the smoke. If I do hammer it, I am still hoping to keep the smoke level very low. I do understand that if I turn the Juice all the way up and hammer it, I will get a lot more smoke, but hopefully not too much. Once I get the cash later for a new turbo, that should take care of the smoke ( I hope).

Rogan, This makes it look very easy. I do have power door licks now, so this shouldn't be too difficult. Is the diagram you have here for a factory system, or an aftermarket version?

This is all good, but is there a way to add remote keyless entry to my truck that did not come with it?

I do not have the remote keyless entry, but would like to add it. Does anyone have information on how to add this to my truck?

I found out from another forum that the A/C runs in the floor/vent position. If the floor only or vent only is selected, the A/C does not run. Thanks for all the replies and assistance.

My goal is to add 125 hp sticks, or 150 hp sticks if I have enough to add a turbo at the same time. It's my DD, and I have to drive downtown St. Louis to work so I really need to keep the smoke to a minimum.