mr.mindless

I got tired of lifting with levers. I push buttons when this fits under. http://www.harborfreight.com/20-ton-air-over-hydraulic-jack-95553.html

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/02data1uuqsa7wd/pkpQW7sr4x#f:IMG_3201.JPG https://www.dropbox.com/sh/02data1uuqsa7wd/pkpQW7sr4x#f:IMG_3206.JPG these links seem to have a habit of expiring. the housings are available in black or chrome. ebay item. I've had two sets, the halo power supplies don't seem to last, one failed on each set after a couple months.

If the whole front is going in the air, the 10 ton air over hydro will lift the entire front end from the inboard edge of the diff casting.

those black housings eat a lot of light. they're black! I ran a set on my Dakota for a month before they went in the bin.get projector housings and don't look back.

When I had to drop my tank it was full. I used 2x4 blocking to drop it a little at a time without getting too sloshy on me.

caveat: easy when the tank is empty. 30 gallons of diesel is not light.

even on my rusty truck the bed tilt was a total breeze.I tilted the bed when I did my fuel lines, but after that I sprouted a transfer tank and the toolbox gained even more crap, so it wasn't worth it to empty the bed and I dropped the tank when I did my sending unit.Unless you have a hard bed to empty, just tip it up in front. Leave the rear bolts in and loose so it doesn't slide.

So far so good, I'm lovin it!

I found a switch actuated on the return stroke of the clutch pedal that was not being actuated. I was hoping that was the root of my cruise control issue but alas it was not. No difference today after I adjusted that switch to make contact.ABS light is still on, of course.The front sensors retail for about $50ea from Rock, so I'm still hoping that's not it.

I think it's ATF+4 base with additives. It looks like ATF but is stringy like Lucas engine oil treatment and similar.No complaints on my quickie test drive and it was around 30* last night and this morning. Seemed better than it was.The old stuff had a bit of red to it, I fear it wasn't motor oil but very well used ATF of some sort.

tone ring tapped off the stock case and transferred to the ARB. What a hokey setup. Just a slip fit, and no shoulder for it to ride on all ready to go, headed back to the truck from my buddy's shop. Well worth a 10 minute trip to use a press for the bearings. Yukon shafts needed trimming. The Internet says SRW=36.1" and DRW=40.1" - my DRW=38.1" marked and marked. I always draw a line on new axle shafts to look for twist later. I got the truck off the trailer and out from behind it, but not much luck on getting it parked last night. The locker works like a CHAMP though! A few things on my list are left, I got the gorilla juice in my G56, what I took out looked like used motor oil. I still need to drill & tap the manifold for my pyrometer, install my console cup holders, and my low pressure fuel pressure sensor. Found a decent flake of gear tooth on my G56 magnet, so I'll be keeping my eye out for a trans...

awesome photos!

Ditto to W&F!Don't replace the one odd one, replace the THREE odd ones! Torx have no place in an application like that, it's asking for broken torx drivers in the future when things are rusty and tough to deal with.

with the money I'm sticking into this stupid 11.5, I could!

none of them do. 90% of salesfolk are just like that, regardless of what product they're selling. Unfortunately 90% of customers are too stupid to know better because they come in totally uninformed and the good 10% of the sales force gets little benefit but a headache and bad rep that the rest earn for them.

Had to pull the diff case to get the splines out. Cleaned up the bore and saw cracks. :banghead: These 11.5" limited slips are rare as hens' teeth used, and new they cost a mint! The air compressor and tank are coming out of my '97 and an ARB will be here for the '07 Friday or Monday. Maybe I'll even get NY plates on it someday I like smilies They're all I've got left to keep me sane! - - - Updated - - -

ditto with me and computers. the LAST thing I want to do when I get home is work on the damn things any more.

I had that exact color combo on my Jetta IV front seats. I picked them up used, I loved them.I'm absolutely getting a set - at least for the front buckets - in the '07. Typical high mile driver seat, so it's getting a new cushion and I'll patch the factory seat cover, then cover it. Should look about like new.

I have friends who work at Delphi, I can borrow a TechII all day long, bur DRB III?

I'm pretty certain of that - but there are at least 4 speed sensors and I was hoping there was a way to have the ABS computer tell me which was bad without a DRB

6.7 vgt exhaust brake spanks the hell out of my Banks Brake. Quieter, way more power, rides better, and 14mpg calculated with around 4500# behind me. I didn't check how accurate the odometer is though, so +/- a lil bit of fudge. Tow bars SUCK in the snow. Almost had to wait for a thaw to get out of the harbor creek PA TA where I waited out a whiteout. - - - Updated - - - I can't have anything nice!! http://bb.m4wdfabrications.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=762.0;attach=1157;image 30 miles after I droppod the 2500. I sat at a light and didn't put it in gear soon enough and kinda romped on it. Heard a bang, didn't feel totally funny and I momentarily convinced myself it was something in the toolbox shifting. it felt really awful going around a building to go through a Tim Horton's drive through on my way to show off the new truck to my girlfriend... Didn't really want to go after that and I knew something was broken as opposed to just wrong. My buddy Smike came over to my house after Kim and I enjoyed some St. Paddy's dinner, and we finished mounting up a new winch on my lowboy and went on a retrieval mission. It backed out of its spot with some convincing, but no way it was going to drive up on the trailer so I'm glad we sorted out the winch mounting. I was initially thinking I stripped teeth in the diff gears (the gears were done ~3000 miles ago, original 3.73s let go at 350k - a diff shop did them and they were inspected for backlash after 500 mile breakin, so they were done right), but then it was acting more like a cross pin or axle shaft. I was real happy to pull a broken axle shaft out when we got back to my place. I'm also real NOT happy to have broken an axle shaft on the damn street! This axle is rated for nearly a ton more axle weight than the Dana 80 under the '97, that I've abused the hell out of and never harmed. WTF! For the moment I'm going to go with "when the gears went out, it stressed the hell out of the axle shaft and now it let go"

That doesn't recall abs codes

Looks like its all in the computer, huh? I was hoping for a disconnected vacuum line like I'm used to :)I have an ABS light on, so I'm guessing there's a dead wheel speed sensor somewhere. I'd like an easy way to find them but I don't have a drb, and Smarty Jr & Edge Insight don't read ABS codes. Is there another software tool that anyone knows of that I could use with a serial OBD II cable?I need to get the truck inspected soon, I'll see if my shop has anything but they're not big enough to waste $ on a DRB.

That doesn't sound off to me with 4.10s. That's what my 97 215hp 5sp got, mileage-wise. It just got there quicker!

If there was a lower air dam for a late third gen I'd love to put it on my new truck. The stocker has a rip on one spot and is sagging in a few others.