mr.mindless

I still must strenuously disagree with this method of tire pressure calculation. The logic is sound, but you cannot run a tire flat safely! By this logic, an empty trailer should have tires around 7-10psi. No!Many commercial tires will have a load table published suggesting inflation pressures for given loads. Follow those! If your tire doesn't have one published, look for similar tires and use them as a guideline. the very most critical thing in a dual tire setup is that the sidewalls do not contact each other. That'll build heat very quickly and lead to failure. Running such low pressures in your duals I hope they have a large amoun of clearance between the sidewalls to account for flex when you hit bumps or for the quick load you take while underinflated. Tapatalking in traffic

That sounds.... Interesting. Considering the housings are plastic I don't see how anything could short out aside from in the harness - and where was constant power even accessible to short to? I hate to say it but that really sounds like a truck side wiring problem. Tapatalking in traffic

I'll find out if they're totally worthless the end of next week give or take. $31 shipped....Tapatalking in traffic

3.42s if you can get em. You want to cruise at to just above peak torque for best economy. If you don't tow, the tallest gears you can get will universally do you best - unless you're 100% stop and go city stuff, and even so I bet you'd still be best considering the power the diesel makes. Tapatalking in traffic

quad cab 2500 vs 3500, the ebay place I found some cheap window vent visors from are claiming the cabs are different. I don't buy it. I expect across all the Rams of a given year there are only two four doors - a Quad and a Mega.Am I wrong or are they nuts?

I'm at 105 all the way around right now. I really need to get un-lazy and bring them all down around 75! Just need to make sure my rear duals don't rub at that. My recap drives still total over 12k at 75psi.

You'll love them, without a doubt.They're a bargain, and good too. At least 10 sets among my friends including low pressure off road use and tow rig use and ONE issue through that all, which was very quickly remedied at no out of pocket expense.

pull it all the way out and check the o-ring. replace if needed.

I paid $750 for a complete '95 Ford D60 to do my Ford knuckle swap. Could do better than that if you're not in a hurry.

give it as many shims as you can and still stuff it in there, that's how

That's funny, sounds heavier built than the CM flatbed I have on my new truck, by far - and that's MEANT to haul things on!

Exactly. CAD only saves on the front driveshaft not spinning. All the guts of the axle still do - that's why adding locking hubs makes for such a big gain even over CAD being disconnected. I think the lesson to learn is to engage the 4x4 before you get stuck! Aside: sawing the wheel left & right - as in lock to lock sort of distance if needed - may turn things in the front far enough to allow spline engagement in the CAD.

Only an appearance improvement from the rust removal IMO - but I'm glad you found one!

just on the casting, as close to the centerline as possible I've heard that before and with static weight I simply don't buy it. jumping? sure. Landing on it while moving? sure. Not statie weight being jacked up. No way.

This. Notched gates aren't low enough for goose hookup. I hate bumper pull by comparison to anything in the bed.

Ignored the halos not lighting. Light was more than great. Not easy to adjust or change bulbs though. To be expected with aftermarket lights really. Retrofits (re:minimoto) must be done with a clear lens light, and are a lot of work to fit properly.

It had a lil knock...

Finally pulled the head tonight. Not much left to disassemble under the hood- really just fuel system, tappet cover/camshaft, and brake master/ booster. I think I found the problem:

You didn't say what model, but my P3 kills everything when there's a short whether with the manual lever or automatic usage. Unless yours is different the above statement indicates to me you have a truck side issue not a trailer issue.

:cookoo:what sort of brake controllers are these? are they set properly as far as level goes if they are pendulum type?

that's easy: controller is shot, then.

your controller isn't getting the brake signal input from the truck. do your truck brake lights work? if not, bad brake switch. if so, bad wiring to the controller.

That's just cooked oil. Lack of changes and long periods sitting, drying out. The last head I pulled (84 4.2 in an AMC Eagle) had so much coked oil that I had to chip it away to find all the head bolts. It was stiff turning over and I couldn't get it to fire. Wonder why... - - - Updated - - - By the way, that is the same stuff that'll kill your turbo bearings if you shut down hot too often.

inboard of diff = near centerline of truckoutboard of diff would be between the diff an the knuckle where you only have room for a jack OR a jackstand and would be lifting only the driver side tire

my bottle jack fits under the tube, inboard of and up tight against the diff, to lift the whole front at once.you won't get a bottle jack under the diff with stockish sized tires on.