mr.mindless

Finally finished testing this morning. No leakers but #1 and #6 are out of spec with high return meaning they're shorting me on fuel. #5 has a broken alignment roll pin (that's the one whose hold down felt loose, god I hope that didn't go down the hole) and along with #2 it's at the return limit spec. So I'm gonna put 6 reman injectors in it. Given age and history I don't know if these could potentially be aftermarket tips or anything like that and I'm not going to spend this kind of money to gamble on four fresh remans matching flow of two in spec unknowns. Shitty but it is what it is. At least I don't have to worry about having melted anything with leaky tips, and testing was only $23/ea.

Absolutely not. Rail pressure is rock steady. No notable fluctuations in boost or pyro, low of high pressure fuel. Injectors are out and in dropping them at D&W Diesel first thing tmw. Snark: I'd post pics if I had tapatalk

Also - I've seen varying reports on whether the ECU needs to be programmed with the injector codes. Any knowledge to share? Opinions on the smartness of replacing only one/some injectors and not doing it as a set? I've been under the impression that as long as they "match" CR can be replaced piecemeal, not like the older injection systems.

Hey everybody, it's been a while! And I'm back with a problem... 07.5 6.7, 370k. Two owners ago supposedly replaced the whole top end of the motor at about 320k chasing what turned out to be a bad EGR cooler. The truck had been stock until then. It got a new head, new turbo, new injectors, and an H&S with SmartyJr. I run either econ or tow with default values. I've had the truck for a year and about 15k miles. It has been flawless with the exception of what sounds like chipped teeth in 5th gear that I'm ignoring... The last few days I've noticed what feels like a miss under high load. I have an Insight CTS, and watching what it's telling me I see no oddities in rail pressure, EGT, load, anything. It happens above about 20k rail pressure. If I back off it smooths out, if I upshift and lug it the rail pressure drops at a lower RPM and it smooths out. I have no smoke, no gained oil, no rough idle, no miss at low load. It's pretty subtle, along the lines of an exhaust leak. I had no end of issues with injection lines on my P7100 24v though and it's attuned me to what a dead hole feels like, and this doesn't feel right. I did get a tank of watery fuel over the winter once. I'd be less concerned if it wasn't for that. Planning to pull all 6 sticks and bring them to D&W Diesel for testing. Crappy thing is I have a race this weekend and would like to tow down Friday morning, and they're backed up a couple days on testing!

What sort of pressure do you usually see? I put a tapped banjo in the CP3 and see very little pressure (under 2psi) on it according to my CTS. Stock fuel system, and that was installed with brand new filters. I've never verified the reading with an analog gauge but that's been on my list to do forever...

I have a 95 v10 2500 with 4 wheel abs. My 97 cummins 3500 was RWAL only - no front sensors. I really wish it didn't take a drb (and attendant $90 dealer diag fee) to pull abs codes. Abs light has been on in my 07.5 since before I got it. No cruise control is the only symptom I care about. Tapatalking in traffic

Valve lash has absolutely nothing whatsoever to do with either blowby or normal oil off gassing. Tapatalking in traffic

The torque management that's possible with electronic controls of engine and trans talking to each other is the key. You'll never see that 850 off the line, or while mid-shift. It's comparitively easy to make a trans last in top gear, higher RPM, full lockup with a ton of torque than while it's shifting or slipping.

Making turns with loose lug nuts is my usual suggestion. Tapatalking in traffic

Nice. I thought there was something with C&C trucks being slightly derated in addition to other differences. Still a great table & rule of thumb. Tapatalking in traffic

Sent you a PM with a couple questions on my setup. Thanks for keeping us up to date!Tapatalking in traffic

100% what w&f said. You need a driveline shop not a machine shop. This is also assuming the parts in use suffered no damage and therefore excessive wear and resulting slop from having been run with MUCH less engagement than is necessary. Tapatalking in traffic

Why was it removed?I assume this was a quadzilla thing?Tapatalking in traffic

I thought 02 HD were still second gen, and that the IPM didn't start until third gen trucks. I don't think you'll find a relay in the IPM setup, that's all computer controlled.

Careful playing with floating gears in something with synchros. It's a quick way to commit yourself to matching revs on that gear until you drop the tranny and put some fresh brass in it. Tapatalking in traffic

There should be a drl relay in the pdcMy 98 Dakota has one. US spec though so it never had drlsTapatalking in traffic

Yup, clutches are for starting and stopping. And passing a CDL test, I hear. If I ever do that I'll have to find an auto to test in. Double clutching has never made any sense at all to me. Tapatalking in traffic

Damaged a seal when reassembling? Give it one too many pumps on the EZ Lube hub? (man I HATE those!)Tapatalking in traffic

It sounds no different than any other except when you're using the exhaust brake, and that's your choice. Tapatalking in traffic

More likely a bad hub seal and it's greased. That SUCKS. trust meTapatalking in traffic

If you just slapped on the backing plates and assembled, you need to adjust slack. Set them to just before they're dragging and you'll see a WORLD of difference. Tapatalking in traffic

I wouldn't trade the vgt exhaust brake for anything. Does it sound like a Jake? Nope. Does it work like a champ? Absolutely. Without the exhaust brake on, you can't tell the difference from the sound anyway. Tapatalking in traffic

classic control arm bushing symptoms. If you take load off the front suspension you'll probably be able to wiggle them around. Under load, the axle is moving back on that side causing your pull. Took 6 months to find this on my buddy's '01, we thought it was bent frame from a jackknife crash (we did some serious bushmechanicary straightening the twist in the frame on an equipment trailer with chains, binders, bottle jacks) but the wheelbase measured out straight and square no matter how many ways we tried. Even tire wear too. But the bushings were bad enough that while rolling the px side wheelbase was probably shortening near half an inch. With weight on it and sitting still it would settle back where it belonged though.With the prices I get, new arms are not much more than a pair of replacement bushings if you're staying stock. May as well save the effort.

Comparing those numbers is totally apples & oranges. I'd expect your peak torque is around 1800-1900 but ignoring that you're talking a 20mph speed differential. Making a run in 5th vs 4th (or 6th vs 5th) or swapping gears is the only way to make that comparison. How accurate is your scangauge to pump-odometer numbers? I'm trying to "train in" my Edge Insight CTS and a couple thousand miles in its still wildly off. The current tank it's way low. It's been way high until now. The overhead computer has been decenty close the whole time. I think 15% off is the worst I've seen. Tapatalking in traffic

With 35s I think you'd be happy with 4.10s. Anything smaller and they're just plain too deep. I've got 245/70r19.5s on which is about a 34" tire with 3.42 gears. It's not lacking. I haven't grossed more than maybe 20,000 with this setup though. I may be wanting when I'm at 26k with three cars behind me. Tapatalking in traffic