mr.mindless

I'd pull the gasket and see if I could feel where the cover was rocking from touching underneath. use some putty to judge clearance if needed... but if it'll sit flat on the top of the head it'll surely seat with a gasket.I don't know if two would seal well, but they are pretty stout gaskets...

I'll second the Maxxis, they've done well on the trailers I know.Stay away from Carlisle. They've done exceptionally poorly...

No more huge voltage drops, seems to have been the belt slipping. Still have occasional minor brownouts (.5v drop or so, according to the PIII brake controller readout) but that could be nearly anything. it's JUST enough to notice in the headlights when it's relatively dark around. Could be trailer load, relay, compressor, small short, small open... Been that way at least since the 24v swap. Doubt I'll find that one.

I think you're being wildly conservative to worry at those temps.I try not to sustain over 1350 and call it good

How bad are your EGTs and what's your setup? I'm sure it's posted elsewhere so a link instead of a recap would be great, then the twins can stay here and chatting about that can go there....

Checked my ignition off draws last night. With a door open and cab lights on, it sat at just under 3a, steady. With the door shut, I see 0.04a steady. So whatever draws me down is definitely intermittent. Terminal connections are all clean and tight. With as random and infrequent as it is, and as short a duration as this issue has, I doubt a bench test of batteries or alt will shed any light. --- Update to the previous post... Going to VA this weekend so I'll have some "testing time" Picked up a new belt this morning, so I'll do that first. If I still see it, I'll unhook the trigger wires on the grid heater solenoids. After that I'll probably change the charging fuse just for grins, and then think about an ammeter.

How buried is the back of the house? could the water be entering through the foundation on that side, as opposed to through the floor?Unfortunately the only "proper" fix for that would be to expose that whole side of the foundation and waterproof the exteririor of it, and I'd still set up a french drain just below the slab level and then backfill with stone to help the water get down into the drain instead of sitting against the wall.Not an easy battle to fight. Things on the SIDE of a hill just plain aren't supposed to flood!Good luck in the battle.

indeed!

the problem is far too intermittent and unpredictable to show up in any bench testing. Sometimes it'll be every few seconds for 4-5 cycles, sometimes it'll go hours without doing it. Road conditions don't matter, it doesn't seem to have anything to do with rough roads or anything.I like the cracked charging fuse idea. Another thought that just occurred to me is it could be a belt slipping under load - it's been through some pretty healthy oil and fuel leakage. No squeal though, and I haven't noticed power steering drop outs and I expect that puts a higher demand on the serpentine than the alternator should.

I've got something odd going on with my truck. The more vexing problem is I get intermittent dimming lights that I notice when driving at night. For a tenth of a second everything will go dim, and then come back. Headlights, dash lights, interior lights if they're on, and the voltage gauge will dip from 13.x to12v and then recover.I've looked for shorts in the main battery cables and alternator charging cable, and find none; nothing is ever warm either. I've checked for loose battery connections and loose alternator connections. I'm getting close to throwing parts at it with a fresh alternator to see if that makes a difference, and an external voltage regulator if it doesn't. Considering putting an ammeter in to diagnose if draw is going up or if supply is going down, too. Any thoughts?The second and possibly related issue is a seeming ignition off draw. I can only let her sit for 24 hours if it's cool out or it doesn't have enough juice to spin fast enough to fire. That at least ought to not be too hard to track down with a DVM and pulling fuses to see what circuit it's on - assuming it isn't intermittent as well.I guess I'm looking for your anecdotes on similar issues so I can maybe have a few places to check out specifically, see if anyone has fought something similar and won. :shrug:Thanks!

An engine barring tool!If only there was an easy a way to keep the pump shaft from spinning too.

this is the other build I was thinking of http://www.sanco-bg.com/Conversion_NV5600.htm found it again from this thread http://www.powerwagonadvertiser.com/forums/showthread.php?p=88105 and here's a thread on that guy's swap on CF http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-powertrain/41978-nv5600-fso6406a-6-speed-fuller.html

Got your PM, I'm waiting to hear back on a VA trip I'm doing this week and if I have room I can definitely take care of this for you.

If the small case Eatons use a SAE #3 bell housing, maybe. Keep searching, there is at least one guy who put a baby 6 or 7 in his Ram, he's got a thread on I think CumminsForum. Pretty sure there were still floor mods. If you can find a clutch housing that keeps the starter on the driver side you'll have an easier time and probably get to leave your exhaust alone. Most SAE setups have passenger side starters though. Read my thread, find the 2-3 other ones out there, an you'll be in good shape.

NV4500 to NV4500 to RTOO9513, yup. Decided after a "fixed" 5th gear departed and then I took teeth off 5th, the 4500 wasn't for me.The small case 6 and 7 speeds may be an easier swap, but what I did was hardly "hard". It all bolts up... Just have to make the floor work above it.I rarely split the top side, but I wanted the double over to help make up for the 4.10 gears. I'd still love to put 3.55s in, I have plenty of low gear options that see little use. Empty I start in 4th.

One out of three or four times it's been an absolute bear to tighten the nut without the pump turning, so watch that on reassembly.

What Mike said.Put tension on it and smack it, preferably in-plane with the force you're applying.

duration is a very important component of timing that seems to be ignored in most corners of the Cummins world. well studied in TDI circles - where smaller things make changes more apparent I'd expect. Same requested injected quantity through a bigger hole gives less smoke and lower EGTs because more of the fuel is shoved through the hole sooner giving a shorter ignition event and more accurate timing.

With the pump stroke, you're dealing with injecting a fixed volume of fuel (in a given circumstance) and varying pressure and rate with pump type and injector size, so it will take a longer or shorter duration to get that fixed quantity through the nozzle based on the volume the injector can pass.

I pulled a bunch of timing out at the same time, and don't think I suffered much if any power loss... And the EGTs do climb slower. Towing my usual routes will really let me know what difference it made - whether I still have to pedal it by the time I make the summit of Bloss Mountain....

Well I have some nontowing results from this swap, I picked up about 20% in fuel economy, I got mid-16s running ~73mph empty back and forth on I90 to Cleveland. I used to only be able to get that sort of milage at 60-ish, and would expect somewhere in the 13s at 75ish.EGTs when accelerating hard have not improved, but I'm pushing a lot of heat back into the motor since I haven't replaced my wastegate actuator yet and it'll get to at least 37psi on the HX35. I should get some towing miles in this week or next and see what sort of improvement it made there. Once it warms up I'll play with shortening the arm on the WG actuator I got and see if I can make it work right for me.

Really? I bought one a year ago when I did my motor swap, and I bought one again a month ago when I did my cam. I go to my local Cummins dealer, Regional International. They've had to get them in both times. If you need, I'm sure I can pull receipts and get part numbers for you.

I could really tell my 12v from my friend's 24v when we would park next to each other idling, I don't think I've done that since the 24v went in my truck. Back then I really just thought it sounded like twice as many things going on and I blamed the valve train. Not sure if that's still the case or not... I'll make a mental note to check next time we're running together and pull up for fuel next to each other again.

No EMP gauge here, so it's all butt dyno...

My vacuum seems a little weak for my Banks Brake to actuate properly so I won't have a good before and after comparison on that. I want to get rid of the vacuum canister and actuate it with air pressure instead but haven't gotten around to source an actuator from Clippard or anyone just yet.