txmasterplumber

I have read, yes they do have a chrank sensor, then have read they don't, they have a cam sensor. I just looked, but I didn't see anything. Trying to get ahold of my mechanic buddy.... maybe he said cam sensor?

It was wierd. Being a plumber, I used my stem sockets. The new one needed a 1 3/32", so I tried to take the original out, wouldn't fit. Wound up needing a 1 9/32". You can get them at any hardware store for around $12 to $15 bucks.

Well, I received my packages from Geno's yesterday. I just finished installing the oil pres. sensor.... IT WORKS!!! Now all I have to do is find out were the crankshaft pos. sensor is.... been looking in the '01 Ram Service Manual, but can't find it.. shows a cam pos. sensor... more searching.... say a prayer for me! --- Update to the previous post... I forgot to mention the new problem, With a mechanic freind telling me about the crankshaft position sensor operates with the tach, and he also said that it affects the system charging..... last Friday when I was on my way to Texas Motor Speedway to set up the tent for the weekend race.... the volt meter was showing max'd out, 18 volts... scan gauge said anywhere from 14.0 to 18.0 volts, but mostly in the 14 to 15 range, so I'll see how it works once I replace the Crank Sensor.... again, if I can find out where the hell it goes!

Ordered one from Geno's garage for under $100... called Auto Zone today, $197, Oreilly's $212, Dealer $257, wasn't about to pay that, can get a aftermarket gauge for $100 to $150, but then have to deal with the "Check Gauges" light. It's been a good truck, have 348,000 on her now, been through: 5 lift pumps (aftermarket soon), original clutch (southbend currently), on the 3rd VP-44 (first replacement from Dodge dealer, only lasted 14 months) on 3rd clutch master cyl., countless front pads (finally found the "Severe Duty" pads from Wagoner, tires are a different story, stay away from Interco, there too soft, 8800 miles on first set, I have ran Maxxis Bighorns and they seem to last pretty good, usually around 35 to 40 k. The best thing is, it's been paid off for 4 years....

Man, I need a break... this morning, went out to get ready for work.. start truck for warm up. Leave about 10 min later. About 4 miles from house, look down at gauges and no oil pressure, turn around, go back to house. Check oil, ok, it was a little low (Qt & 1/2) but not enough to show no pressure. It didn't knock or run any different than normal. So I check the gauges out ( key off, push and hold trip odom. button, turn key to on) Everything checks out ok. So I figure its the oil pres. sending switch. Call Autozone... $197 bucks. No way i'm paying that, can get a aftermarket for $100. So, I drove it today, no problems: water temp ok, no engine nock, the check gauges light did come on, of course.Question is, anyone else had this problem, and what did you do to fix, or what should I check?Also, a few weeks ago, running north on I-35W towards Ft. Worth, happen to look down, and Tach shows nothing. About a mile or so, it comes back up. Only time it happened. A few days later, it happened again. Engine didn't sputter, ran fine, tach just crazy or what. Any thoughts?

Man, I really don't exactly remember, around 230, paid the dealer 20 bucks to install. Bought them at the Dodge dealer in Waxahachie, TX. I had the original mirrors with power and heat, these are manual. I would like to find a set with power and heat.

Yeah, it show's the current, and previous day's readings, it was the previous readings that were gone. I guess there's lemons with everything, but they stepped up and took care of me. We'll see how the new one works out, I really like the unit --- Update to the previous post... yep, you got it, all of them... I mean the previous days and total MPG's... and the engine and tank settings were going back to 2.2 and 15 gals. They stepped up without any problems and sent me one out and just asked me to return mine in the same box that they sent the new one in, with a prepaid label, can't beat that with a stick!

I've got a ScanGauge II, in fact, just got the replacement yesterday from Linear Logic. The original one kept reseting itself to zero, I had to go in and reset the engine size, tank size, etc. The Boost didn't seem to work right, could only get 7.6 on the display for boost at full throtle. Now the new one is showing 15.6 lbs of boost at idle, don't know whats going on. Will have to call them Monday after the visit to the doc. Mike, your the master of the SG, am I missing something or what. The 1st on I had to reset because I set the gallons after my 1st fill up, so started from scratch. At 2nd fill up, set the gallons, then the next day, started it up, whent to check the Avg. MPG, and was at zero. So I called and they sent me a new one.

Guess I'm not very good at descriptions, but I know what i'm talking about.... I bought these from the Dodge Dealer, and they installed them for $20 bucks

I'm going to look in the morning, after I work on my wifes S-10, trans. problems... got the parts in today. Will let ya'll know what I find.

Trying to find out, which one I have, if any, in my '01. I have only the standard map lights, sunglass holder now, wondering if there may me a connector installed that might work with the evic system There's 2 types of overheads:. OTIS (Overhead Traveling Information System) EVIC (Electronic Vehicle Information Center) OTIS has two versions: 1 with Homelink and 1 without Homelink OTIS modules have the name of the buttons written on the console underneath the actual button. EVIC modules ALWAYS have Homelink buttons, but they are also capable to telling you other stuff like low washer fluid, they can allow you to program your horn, lights, etc. It's a really nice module - BUT here's where th BCM comes in (and I don't have enough info about the BCM and the EVICs to know for sure): I have read on the internet that you might have a BCM that cannot talk to an EVIC. If that's the case, you might get some funny actions coming from the module readout. --- Update to the previous post... Yeah, what he said.....

I installed the flip up tow mirrors a few years ago, and I can't be the only one wondering about this. When you have the mirrors flipped up, there's what looks like a removable tab that's on the arm, i'm wondering if it's not for like turn signals?..... anybody know, or just a pattern in the design

anyone have an overhead console in their truck, other than the one with the map lights, sunglass holder and garage door opener holder, one that shows the temp and direction.

correctamundo... wondering if all the rams came with the wireing standard, or if im out of luck.

man, i've searched the net for hours, and can't find the info I need. Anyone have info on what otis/evic came on the '01's. I've got an '01 SLT with the standard o/h console. Trying to find out what system I can put in..... did I mention my wrist hurts from the moving the mouse....

i've had my BHAF on for 4+ years and have never had a heat sheld, have never had any issues: melting, etc. Wouldn't it be better not to have one, to help with the IAT's for the mileage factor? --- Update to the previous post... ..... also, where can I get a sock for it????? --- Update to the previous post... My filter minder never seemed to work. I had taken the oem filter out and installed a K&N filter, but the mechanic that I had used almost beat the crap out of me when he saw that... he said that the K&N's let to much dirt in the system, that's when I had put my BHAF in, but never thought about puttin the air minder in. Any way of testing them?

I've had my BHAF on for probably 4 yrs now, without a heat sheald. I just picked up my SG II today from Autozone, and said I got an average of 21.0 on my trip home. I'll have to read up on the manual tonight..... man, this thing is SWEET

How's she sound?

Not to get off topic, but a good (cheap) place to buy anything electronic... www.mouser.com their in my backyard and I bought my resisters, delphi connectors and switches from them. You can buy directly from them and have them ship to you, or if your in the area and run it though a company, can pick up. Check them out.

I don't know about the +4, but a mechanic told me that I could put a quart of ATF (dextron) in the tank, to help the lubricity. I've done it a few times, but didn't check the mpg.

Found the problem, nothing to due, i think, with the ball joint job, but still don't know how it happened..it turned out, these 2, I think vacuum lines, came off. Located on the front of the tranny skid plate. Works now

Mike, what is this gauge? Brand? [ATTACH=CONFIG]2322[/ATTACH]

i'll check it tomorrow after work, it's just wierd that it worked fine till I changed out the ball joints....:banghead:

OK, Brainiacs, from my last post, I changed the U/L ball joints out last weekend. Once you get the hang of what you're doing, it's not to bad. Well, around Tuesday, I noticed a light blinked on the dash, bottom middle. Didn't know what it was, till I got home and used a flashlight..... 4WD light. I thought maybe, the bulb was going out. So I put it in 4H to take a spin around the property.... the light didn't come on, but it went into 4WD. Today when I left the house, the light started blinking, almost like a strobe light when I was driving. It would go off when I came to a stop, but then when I get to around 35, it starts blinking again, but sometimes it goes out, then starts again. Has anybody had this happen to them, or what did I do. Any answers?

Well boys, I finnally decided to replace my ball joints,@ 325k. Had them replaced around 160k, and it cost me over 1200.00 . I bought a set of XRP's from a store in Dallas a few weeks ago. I started on the drivers side yesterday around 8:30 in the morning, finally got them both out around 1:00, man were they stuck. Broke 2- 1/2" Craftsman breaker bars and 2 cm ratchets and 1 Snapon. Went to Sears in Arlington to change them out, lunch. Went to Northern Tool and bought a 900 ft lb 1/2" air ratchet, since my Stanley wouldn't hack it. The new one didn't hack it either. I had bought a ball joint press from HF, and man is it junk. Broke the middle receiver spacer on the upper, had to drop back and punt. Anyway, finally got them installed and moved to the right side around 5:15 and they were as bad as the other side. Soaked them both with PB Blaster, put the new BJ's in the freezer and called it quits for the night. Hit the other two around 1:00 this afternoon, after going back to Sears to change out 1 more breaker bar and another ratchet. I hit the upper with the new a/r and just kept after it. Finally came out, got the lower out with a little persuasion and a rap with the 3lb sledge. This was my first attempt at B/J's. I didn't think that it would take as long as it did, the guy on u tube did one side in 30 mins. I don't know about anyone else's luck, but i'd stay away from the HF press.