JD435

Hi Jman, Well thank you for your question. This truck is still project truck. Currently way laid with other projects. I am happy way the truck sits. Expect it will ride well. In the thread below on July 25 2019, there is a picture of the truck in the background on my concrete pad. https://mopar1973man.com/topic/16281-99-ole-rusty-cab-rust/?&page=2#comments Will post a current photo this weekend when weather is nicer (not raining). Bob G. Ok here is the truck as it sits on the concrete pad.

Hi Jman, Well thank you for your question. This truck is still project truck. Currently way laid with other projects. I am happy way the truck sits. Expect it will ride well. In the thread below on July 25 2019, there is a picture of the truck in the background on my concrete pad. https://mopar1973man.com/topic/16281-99-ole-rusty-cab-rust/?&page=2#comments Will post a current photo this weekend when weather is nicer (not raining). Bob G.

Dripley, Would $400 be a good price for a used Pacbrake C14025 with HX35 exhaust adapter, angle butterfly/cylinder, vacuum solenoid, hoses and wiring? Looks like will need the ECM Pin# 20 connection. Anyone know what make/# pins used in the 2gen ECM module connector?

Well just an update. I have the cab in my shop (barely-so much stuff) and the interior is stripped down to just the metal. There is no rust except a few small surface rust spots on the floor boards. However looking inside the driver's side of the cowling, there looks to be may be some paint blisters right where my old cab had rotted out. I think everyone should eye ball this hidden area. In the meantime, my wife has been on me about her 2005 Honda CRV about throwing a P0341 code (camshafts out of phase). This CRV is now a standby vehicle. Found the timing chain had jumped a tooth (explain less power) and the CRV has 260K miles and was drinking about one qt of oil every 200 miles. Found that all of piston oil control rings where stuck, drain holes plugged, heavy carbon build up on top of the pistons, intake valves stems. So in middle of major rebuild. Not sure when be able to get back on the Dodge. Question: Looking to also install an exhaust brake for when I will be towing my equipment trailer. See all the new exhaust brakes use air compressors. Looking to buy used since will only really needed on occasions towing my equipment trailer. Anything wrong using the older vacuum direct mount BD or Pacbrake units?

Have not been around heavy duty diesels for 30 years now. I was a Detroit guy. I know the fords with the 6.9L and 7.3L IDI diesels used coolants filters but they also had cavitation issues. I have been using the yellow NAPA Extended AF in my equipment ( mostly Kubota diesel powered) for the last five years now. What AF is everyone else using?

Just curious... So anyone installed a coolant filter and use filters with DCA? If so, how did you plumb it in? Bob G.

Well went down to Moyock, NC and picked up a 2000 Dodge 1500 cab, both fenders, hood, front support and passenger door. Started stripping down the cab and have not found any rust yet. Will see when I pull out the carpet. The paint on top of the roof is a little rough and a dent in the top left rear corner. Will need to get the front windshield replace since there is a crack going across the middle. Debating if should go ahead have cab, fenders, hood and passenger door painted while everything is apart or after everything is installed back together.

WOW - What can I say about your 'work' truck. Fantastic job. My standards for 'Work' truck are much lower. LOL My build was just for reliability with all the rust issues. Every part take off is recondition(blasted/repainted), repair or replace. Chipped/Wire Wheel rust from the frame as I went along. Still have right-rear. Started at the rear using 'Chassis Saver' then Rustoleum at the front frame and did front axle in POR15. I also have a impressive scrap pile. Bought my truck last year from first owner who had good records of oil changes. He worked in construction and did daily 60 mile commutes to Washington D.C. so he picked up a lot of road salt over the years and did not do complete wash down under the truck. Guess you are in the NW part of the state where there is still some real country. Use to go to the Flemington Fair every year and made many trips to J.S. Covert in Neshanic Station for Deere parts in the 70's. Your kicker wagons bring back fond memories with JD 3020 PS and JD 346 baler. Thanks for the photos, Bob G.

Gee they still do this? I grew up in NJ and our family moved down to Virginia in 1980 during the recession. This was the time states where starting to adopt self-server gas. Remember pulling into a VA gas station and sitting there for 15 minutes complaining about the poor customer service. Fast forward a few years, went back to NJ and as soon as I grab the fuel nozzle four guys came out shouting at me. You think I murdered someone. LOL.

So you had a cab adventure too? What top coat color did you go with? What was the black coating under the cab? I am afraid when I get this new cab here that I will want to have it painted even though cab is in good shape and same color as the old cab. This project has been a mission creep from the begin . Was going to just repair what needs to be done and get it inspected - that was one year ago. With fuel tank, vac/ps pump and starter removed had good access to frame to address the rust issues and so the journey began... At least with all the new rust-free sheet metal on the front end, could just compound and buff out the paint. Then down the road at a later date, can repaint the truck.

The Enterprise manager over in Harrisonbug, VA confirmed that that door opening width is 7'4" (88 inches). I need 75 inches at the cabs widest point so no problems here. The cab mount on the skid is 5' and the door opening is 7' high. I originally planned to rent a flatbed pickup but could not find one to rent so called Enterprise because they offer the small Isuzu stakebody truck shown above on their website. They confirm the 16' truck also includes a tailgate lift. Between three people, a couple of 2x6x8 boards and a come-along, should have no problems loading the truck. Will post pictures later...

Yeah - This is the truck I am trying to confirm. Do you know what the roll up door opening width is? I need 7’ 6” for the cab to slide in. Was there a wheel well hump inside the box? Do you know what mpg this truck gets? At a conservative 12 mpg rate, I figure my total cost should be about $335. Thanks again.

What make/ model truck did you get because I aligned up a truck with enterprise for next weekend for $140 per day and $0.20 per mile. Will have to go over the mountain to get it. They list width as 8' but I think this outside dimension. Sent Enterprise an email for clarification. By the way I grew up in Monmouth county in Morganville when it was still rural. We moved to Virginia in 1980 during the recession.

Thanks for the impressive cut away...

Funny you say this.... When searching about ABS plastic repairs, some of the auto restoration sites said that 'Armor-All' accelerated the problem. Remember that 'Aero 303' was one of the recommend products to use every 30 day to protect the plastic. Agree that 200F+ temp on the dash does contribute to the problem but also UV exposure. Have seen plastic not in direct sun become brittle. Bob G.

Timd32 - Thank you for the response, A trailer not possible without truck. I have been restoring the truck in my sig for one year now. I need a dependable truck which will not let me down and break the bank. My 88 Ford F250 (gas) has something wrong every time I take it on the road. Totally untrustworthy - just use it on my land. Also have a F250 with the 7.3 IDI diesel (need rebuild) - bought at scrapped value and original going this route until the Dodge came around. As rusty running Dodge/Cummins still brings good money in Virginia. People very proud of their CTD here and get offended offering a lower price on a 20 year truck. Price . I asked locally here if anyone want to go down and pickup the cab for me. Most said to far to travel. One taker yesterday said he could do yesterday after he finish his morning run. We agreed on $500 for the 450 mile round trip. Late morning said he quote to low but could do it for $800 on Saturday. Also checked United Rental which have rented from in the past. The website listed 3/4 ton flatbed truck but when I called, the person said they dont have this truck and no on the east coast stock them for one-day rentals. Most of them are in the midwest and could have one ship for long term lease. Sorry for the long wind.. Dont mind doing another one day round trip myself, just trying to keep the cost down. Will be back looking at rental box trucks with a measuring tape in hand. Bob G.

Well just an update... I bought the rust-free cab, passenger door, both fenders, hood and front support. Last Saturday (5th), my wife and I drove down to Hampton, VA (three hours) to pick up a Budget Rental van and traveled another hour to Moyock NC to pick everything up. Learned a hard lesson. When I got there, we could not fit the cab in the truck by a few inches - did not figure the door opening and the online dimensions where not the actual dimensions. S!@# I had measured my cab and needed at least 75". While research trucks I saw a dimension of 7' 8". I should have measured the truck before taking delivery at least. Remembered measure twice and cut once... Well loaded up everything else and head home. Now looking to make a second trip which will not kill me $permile plus cost of truck. Trying to rent a 3/4 flatbed truck - does not seem any of the rentals have these trucks.

Hi Evan, Can you elaborate regarding the issue with using Dodge RAM 1500 cabs on a 2500/3500 truck. I was told the cabs was all the same except if auto->manual would require cutting shifter hole. In two weeks, I will be going down to North Carolina to pickup a rust-free 2001 Dodge Ram 1500 cab, front clip and hood to replace all rusted salt-saturated seamed sheet metal. Bob G.

Would a 1997 Dodge Ram 1500 standard 2-door cab work the replace a 1999 Dodge Ram 2500 cab? Found possible one on Craiglist https://norfolk.craigslist.org/pts/d...894211887.html The he first three photos is my truck and photo 4 to 7 is the Ram 1500 on Craiglist. Thanks everyone, Bob G

A few days ago started looking on car-parts down south in NC,SC,GA to see what is available. This got me thing about cab swap after seeing a few cab potentials then decide to search from zip 78108 in Texas where my wife has some family who we visit at xmas every few years. Frustrated not having the opportunity to go truck shopping and searching the junk yards while down there... Well found several 2-door std cab with same silver color in good shape looking at the photos down in that part of of the country. I seen those trucks list when searching. There are alot of 1500's out there! Questions: - Is the 1500 cab same as a 2500/3500 std cab? - Is the transmission tunnel part of the floor different regarding auto/manual other than the floor opening for the stick? - Some listing say 'Cab Assembly' and have a higher price - assume this means complete cab with remaining interior? - Seeing cabs in the $200 to 500 range - assume these would be price for a stripped down cab? - Any one buy a cab through the Car-part network and have it shipped a good distances? My current thinking is just patch the hole to get the truck drivable in order to do a road trip for a replacement cab. Bob G.

The truck I bought 10 months ago had a lot of frame, cab corner/rocker, front fender rust. The rear fender just starting to blister in the wheel well and the cab floor boards are solid with some light surface rust some spots. That being said I could deal with these rust issues but... Copied this thread over from Cumminsforum.com since can not upload photos... https://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/auto-body/2482091-1999-ram-2500-rusted-out-cab.html I also have another rust out location which totally caught me off guard! I have a broken dash, a leaking heater core and water leak around rear window so removed all of the interior. After removing the instrument panel from the truck, notice some daylight between driver 'A' pillar and the steering column cab support. Poking at the rusty sheet metal and my fingers went right through. Remove the wipers and cowling cover to get a better idea what is going on. Notice on this truck the firewall does not go all the way up to the windshield but there is a large plenum space. The interior cab side of this space the seam sealer coating in the trough has all flaked apart. The space by the driver A pillar has heavy rust from where water was standing. The drains are in the cowling space. Truck was parked outside for three years on a uphill incline so assume this was cause with the water pooled in this location. Debating course of action - since I will also have to deal with rocker/cab corner replacement on both sides, a cab replacement from a drier southern location may be better option. Right now leaning to just address the rusted areas and weld in new metal where base metal is thin. Need suggestion recoating the inside of this plenum space. Bob G.

Agree with what every one has said. Truck is on a gentle concrete slope in front of my shop. So glad to see the front axle finally hanging there since it was removed four months ago. Planned to hang the traction bar to see the change. Right now as the truck sits, C-C is 36" and on the traction bar measured C-C about 38" . On Sunday scrambled to get the traction bar, sway bars, drag link and tie rod link degreased, wire brush, POR 15 and then Rustoleum top coated twice before it rained in the late afternoon. We are suppose to get 5 to 8" of snow tonight and freezing rain in the morning. Hoping to get the axles and hubs in tonight. Debating at this point to just throw the old coils back in to compared. Wished I had done that before pulling the front axle out. Bob G.

Ok Sprayed the front axle with POR15 and top coated with Rustoleum last Wednesday. Installed the front axle on Saturday with new Moog CC1712 front spring set. Measured the installed front coil springs... Driver Side Loaded Height: 14 7/8" Bumper-Axle Gap: 3 5/8" Pass. Side Loaded Height: 15 1/8". Bumper-Axle Gap: 3 7/8" Do these numbers look right for s standard stock #8600 lb truck? Thanks, Bob G.

DF - Thanks for the response, Yes those springs are Moog progressive variable rate springs. Both Moog CC1710 and CC1712 are VR springs which are replacement for Mopar #38 and #39. Took ok off today since weather is warmer and sunny to paint the front axle. Going out now to but the last top coat on. Hoping to install the axle this weekend but calling rain or snow. Bob G.

Update, Received the Moog CC1712 springs from Rock Auto on Saturday. Was shipped from Hampstead, NY by FedEx for $23. The springs where made in good old USA! The box weighted 54 lbs. Each spring is 25 lbs and are slightly tall than my old coils. Looking forward to get the front axle reinstall. It should be done with in the next two weeks. Will post again after the axle is in update regarding how much lift. Bob G.