pepsi71ocean

Running around up here in -10 to -20 F weather I was seeing hot temps out of my vents with the 200F tstat. I find it cycles in the 197 to 202 range (after first open). IIRC the vent on max ac was pushing 170-180F out the center vent, you will roast. While nothing solid I did see a difference in fuel economy, and he truck seems to run beer and i is quieter. When running my smarty on stock timing you can clearly hear a audible difference. You will see a slight difference in warm up times, but once the truck is up to temp a 200F will keep you much warmer then the 190. my 200F cycles 197-202, rather wise my older 190 was 185-195. Any dodge Tstat from a 2010-2013 should be 200F, they all fit, and are the same diameter. Another thing to look into is a winter front, if it is thart cold its better to build one instead of he cardboard theory, as it causes my transmission temperatures to get squirrely.

your fine. These engines will take serious abuse and keep on chugging. I can attest to having lost a vp-44 front seal and gave my engine a srubb bath with a custom mix of diesel and engine oil. took a year's worth of oil changes to get the diesel (the green tint) out of the engine oil.

You may try these guys, they have done quite a bit of work without issue. Contact them first though and let me know. @marked23

try shifting from drive to neutral back to drive. I suspect your governor pressure solenoid is acting up, could be a clogg due to poor design. The GPS also controls shifting between the 1-2-3 as well. Usually the tale tell sign is backing out the throttle, which adjusts line pressure through the TV cable. the shuttle shift issue is usually line pressure based, you have just enough pressure at that throttle to cause it to flip gears.

This is the suspected reason why I wanted to toy with upping the pop pressure on my smarty truck. I suspect smoke control would benefit.

I have had multiple sets of DAP injectors I've used on builds, and I've never had issues with any of their stuff. I understand that there was a lot of scuttlebutt with the common rail injectors, but that isn't what I do, i play on VP's

The PCM and ECM ground runs through the main wiring harness around the motor up onto the firewall to the PCM, they are internally grounded, not grounded to the body by a stud and that wire. That is why on some trucks you simply pull it out of the harness and re run it over the radiator, or wrap aluminum foil over it. That is the ground. What makes things worse is that I've had trucks where they had a short on the 12V+ lead on the PCM cause Lock up Issues. This is why the CCD bus wires are wrapped around one another, to cancel out this noise. For the record I fixed a Chrysler Sebring that had an A/C noise issue where the speedometer would go to 65mph whenever you took it out of Park or Netural. (ie Drive, 2 1), turns out the Alternator has put out a odd sine wave that was only picked up by the speed sensor. But this alternator benched just fine in a store.

Yes, but cleaning and drop testing are different. I had three trucks so far with TC lock up issues in Jersey/PA that had marginal ground cables. And they looked good. Ironically two were drivers side cables, and one was the passenger side that were .179v give or take.

Stock internals are to weak, the overdrive units are marginal at best. It does support lock up, but I wouldn't be running a lock up switch with your foot off the throttle. Do It. I was told that i should adjust my bands and change fluid every 20,000 miles. Best to dump the fluid and when you do get a 46re filter for a 94-96 dodge, they are exactly the same, except the older one has no steel around the filter. How are your ground cables? have you pulled the alternator off to confirm it is a grounding issue. Have you cleaned the ground sub cables on the passenger side, they are the gey clips with the 00 gauge wire. That is your PCM and ECM ground wire.

I have a FASS 95, (the red series), I'm running 1/2 draw straw, 1/2 from draw straw to FASS. Then 3/8's everywhere else, and I see 18psi at idle, and 15 at WOT with 100's and my smarty Turned up at 35psi of boost.

I don't much about the edge, but I think that you have to realize what I did about the engine rpm, I had to come to accept life at higher rpm. I think @Mopar1973Man would be able to delve into the edge's settings better then I could to help with tweeking. But I think that slight TV cable adjustment would be fine to adjust shifting if you turn the programmer up some, that is what I had to do. As for your deadspot, there is a timing change in that 1,500-2,200 rpm rage you speak of, It exists on my smarty as well, and something that was discussed on the Smarty Tuning thread. But be careful as there is the ability to add too much timing, but with 50hp sticks I don't think it is likely, unlike my 100's where I found too much timing on the truck on certain settings. I think your VP's fuel pressure is to high, it should be 18psi max, out of fear of blowing out the front seal on the VP44. Speaking of, here is my other video about my shifting, as you watch it you will see that I have to play with the O/D Off and "2" buttons to keep the truck rpm's up. Now it is interesting to note, my truck does exactly like you said about slamming gears when I have the Smarty turned back too far. I can't run Torque Management on 0/1/2 because the truck holds the gears into the 2,400 range and loves to slam gears. TM has to be on lvl 3 or 4 for me. If I turn it Up to 5 or 6 it will shuttle shifts sooner then it does now. I'm not entirely sure that it is the cause of your issues, but i suspect that it may be both the TV settings, and the programmer fighting one another.

I think you need to adjust the programmer at this point. You want power yes, but higher up is where you need it. Like for me I've been playing allot with the Smarty, in terms of smoke control and performance. I will say that even with my smarty there are levels and settings I can't use because the truck shifts in odd manors. Like the current settings I have that is what you see, but if I change the Torque Management up It gets more sensitive the faster you move the pedal, more smoke, so Lower TM is fine, because once your moving you don't need that TM anyways. When you Say com 1 transmission, is that built for towing or racing? I suspect this may be a valve body built for a drag strip, and your using it as a daily driver.

My transmission was (supposedly) built for towing, with a valve body with shifting set up for towing and locked TC use. Over time I have come to believe that when towing you really should keep the rpm's above 1,600. As the timing pressure is way to high under lower rpm. When towing I will usually shift the truck manually, around 2,200 rpm's when accelerating, and I keep the tach between 1,500 and 2,300 when towing heavy.

if you fast forward to 1.30 seconds in that video I did another test at a higher percentage throttle. Yes small light throttle to me is dropping an egg on the peddle, Not much movement, TPS on Scan Gauge reads 20 or less. I do have to increase my foot as i accelerate up in speed. medium seems to be about 40%, bot seems more like about 1/3 to 1/2 of the pedal movement. Yes I totally agree with this.

I thought the Medium throttle video posted to the post, Apparently it didn't. Let me to go find it on Youtube. My truck has a similar point right around where you speak of 42-48mph for me, you need to push the throttle. That is why I drive around in 3rd locked, and then shift out into O/D around 45 mph, and by the time she shifts into 4, and locks the TC im above that 1,500rpm line. Yes, my Oil Pressure gauge lies quite a bit. sometimes it takes 30 seconds to register pressure.

This is my truck here shifting with the Smarty Notice the shift points Medium Throttle. Now WOT same settings

How quickly can you destroy your transmission is the real question. IMO I wouldn't do it, the Overdrive units are weak as it is, add in some more lock up power will not fix it. Driving it around with the alternator unhooked, and you still had lock up problems, then it is a ground issue.

I still think you have a valve body issue. My truck shifts WOT at 2900, but under partial throttle it is about 2K on the tach. The torque converter shouldn't have an effect on shifting. Although, I will admit I tend to lock out O/D and keep my engine rpm's above 1,500rpm and shift between "2" and "D" with O/D off under 45-50mph. For me shifting isn't the issue, it is when i back off the throttle, and the truck is idling she won't shift till its too late. Although, I have a SMARTY on my truck and it effects the shift points as well. truck shifts way to late when the TM# is lower. You are correct, adjustment is just on the APPS side. Side note, I have a pair of springs on my TV cable leer on the transmission side?

When testing are you using a good quality voltage meter? also can you give a list of things you have replaced, or tested on the electrical system. Also how was you battery grounds when doing a vDrop test?

When your running the truck it will have a static loss. But if you dump a load on it (like the grid heaters, the starter etc, you will measure the loss between the two points. it should ready less then .02v @Mopar1973Man is this correct I can't remember. That shifting seems about correct to me as well. I bumped the starter manually with a wire i built with a tab on one end and a switch on it, that hooks to the battery positive. Welcome to my neck of the woods. VA drivers can't drive worth a darn in the rain!

WOT for me is about 3,000 on most of the shifts. But for me anywhere up to 35% throttle i see 2,000 on 1 and 2nd shifts, but i tend to stay off the throttle. She shifts good otherwise like when your foot is in it. Both the ECM and PCM are directly grounded in the wiring harness to the passenger battery. When my Drivers side ground cable started to fail it was causing my alternators to start putting out excessive AC voltage and created a list of Lock Up issues. Passenger was fine, but That is because I believe electricity is lazy, and finds the easiest path to ground. SO it was overcharging the passenger battery. I did my vDrop test by setting my fluke meter to vDC and then hooking the red test lead to the grid heater grounds, and then black to the battery ground. drivers side was reading .17v drop, the passenger was .03v. Now you need to put a load on the cables, like starting the truck for example. Grid Heaters firing will also do the same. I choose the grid heater ground because It was the cleanest metal I could find. and I also scratched it first with the needle. Here is the main article, I went from the engine to the batteries to test the grounds.

My 1-2 Shift under any throttle is roughly 2,000 rpm, and 2-3 is also about 1,800rpm. I'm glad that you got that figured out. Now my next questions about burning up alternators, have you checked your ground cables for a vDrop test?

That is what I'm trying to say. I totally would agree with the TC theory if the gearing was correct. But I feel that there is no reason for it to be in 3rd or 4th gear, even at speeds that I believe that 2nd gear is not only warranted but I think suggested. If you do and they find a solution please let me know. That is very odd, what is your fuel pipe diameter? is your pump grounded correctly to the battery and the relay is powered up? I see a steady 17-18psi, with a 2psi drop on my system, and I'm running 3/8"s everywhere except between the FASS and the Fuel tank. That is 1/2" and I have almost no pressure problems. I had a similar issue with my truck running around at 1,100rpms locked up, i was told it was the springs in the TC that were bouncing due to the torque reversals in the crankshaft. I found that upping the timing on my smarty eliminated that metallic noise, on the current smarty setting. My truck will idle up as well. I can hit 15 mph if it let it roll down the road. But at an idle in Drive she will even shift into 2nd. and I'll hit 15mph.

My disagreement with the TC theory is that I don't think the truck should be running around in the wrong gear, I don't like my truck running around in 4th gear at 20 mph. If I shift my truck at the proper rpm shifting, she is smoke and lag free. This is where my disagreement comes from. I totally get the ideal of easier to spool, but if that was the case the truck should be 2nd gear instead of 3rd or 4th at such slow speeds. For me when towing You want a lower gear anyways, because you want more torque multiplication, In which the lower stall speed will help with getting the load moving, I just don't think it is smart, or wise to run around towing heavy loads at 1,100rpm's when boosting, the truck should be ideally between 1,700 and 2,300 rpm's when towing. This is what (DTT) explained to me when I got my transmission built. And despite multiple attempts of adjusting the TV cable I was never able to get the shifting issues figured out, so I run around with O/D OFF, and sometimes the truck in 2nd as well. And I have no lagging or anything, the truck moves loads. I sometimes think people forget our baby Cummins is 1/3 the size of the motors in the semi trucks I drive at work, and the engines in the semi world are designed for 1,300 to 1,800 rpm applications, these baby Cummins need to be higher up the power band. I wouldn't bet on the fluctuations of the fuel psi being related to the voltage. My FASS 95gph pump still cycles on batteries, I suspect it has to do with the engine. 13.7-14.2V is normal for the Alternator charging. My Shift points were close, 1-2 Shift - 25mph @ 3000 rpm 2-3 Shift - 42mph @ 3000 rpm 3-4 Shift - 65mph @ 3000 rpm 4th to TC Lock 4th - 75mph @ 2,500 rpm I've found that test to be about useless, because you can easily achieve the same by running around in locked gear and see at what point the truck really takes off. When I did this test I came up with about 1,500/1,600 rpm as where the truck likes to accelerate the most. I think your speedo is not correct. Because My truck with the 215/75/R16's is within 1/2mph at hwy speed. The downshifting from 4th to 2nd is exactly what I feel as well. But I never let it get that far now, I'll shift the truck first. But it should pick a gear relative to speed. (Or so I would Think).

I penned this article, If you guys have remans and they are working good let me know so I can add them into the article.