pepsi71ocean

This is true, but I needed as much amperage as I could get. I have quite a few short trips per day. Mainly 5-15 mins at a clip. And those can be anywhere between 4 and 8 times per day. it sucks. So for me the extra amperage given to me from the larger batteries helps overcome the short trips. My old group 27s were 850CA and the new ones are 1,150CA each, and at 0F 950CCA is allot of power. But for me I believe that the extra reserve will make it easier on the alternator and not kill my batteries when I'm constantly starting and stopping throughout the day. @Mopar1973Man does my theory sound logical? Or, am I way off?

@Mopar1973Man did you do this to your truck Mike?

Hey Guys, So my old group 27 batteries finally took a dump. I left the radio on in my truck for about 2 hours while I was loading up scrap, and it was enough that after starting the truck the batteries were just beyond this. Anyways, I did some quick looking and decided to upgrade to the famed Group31's. And the results are nothing less then amazing. So not only did the truck start up super fast, but even with the grids banging away the battery voltage went from 14.0 to 12.8V with the grids going off, and you don't even hear the change in the engine or the whine of the alternator, unlike with my old group27's Anyways here is how you do it. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Tools you will need. 1. A dremel or a drill with a drill bit. 2. A propane/ butane torch. 3. Battery Charger 4. Line wrenches for battery cables --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Procedure 1. You pull your old batteries out. From here you will need a dremel, or a drill with a big drill bit. Either works good. 2. So first thing you need is to do is trim these notches off. If you don't the battery will not sit flat on the bottom of the tray, and this is crucial for the battery temp sensor to work correctly. And the other side 3. Start by heating up the battery box sides with a torch. Take your time, as it is better to go slow and steady then race this step. 3A You want to torch from end to end. 3B So when you torch one side so it is nice and warm and pliable, you swap to the other side, and then before you drop the battery in you re-hit the first side again for another 30-45 seconds then drop her in. To this end 4. Now torch away 5. Now after it is warm drop the battery in. 6. Let it cool down, and then pull it out. When your doing this you'll have to do this several times, its best to heat it up, and then drop it back in. 7. After each time you heat it up and drop the battery down you need to trim the plastic. Here you can see the plastic where its getting bigger. 8. Now its important to keep doing this until the battery sits on the bottom of the tray. This is the battery sensor, that my finger is on. 9. Hook up your batteries 9A. You may need to adjust the crossover cable between the two batteries in order to make the drivers side snug. 10. Use your 2/10/50 AMP battery charger to charge your batteries up. Once charged it works great. Some additional notes. 1. I had to adjust the slack on the crossover battery cable so I could get the drivers side positive terminal to fit on snug. 2. The battery hold downs do fit just fine, if you get the battery all of the way to floor. 3. There is about an inch of clearance between the top of the batteries and the hood. 4. Its best to charge your batteries until they are fully full before starting the truck for the first time. I'll update this with some videos in about a week when the weather turns. View full Cummins article

Both the TV lever and the Gear linkage came loose, it was very odd. SO a PSA Drain your tanks. I installed this drier into the air compressor system and it was the best thing I ever did. And now my newest addition to the truck group 31 batteries. And holy smokes do they make a huge difference. I'll have a write up coming for this. This truck turns over like a raped ape. Each battery has almost 1200 cranking amps, and 950CCA, rather-wise my old group 27's were 850 and 650CCA respectively.

So this is what I'm dealing with. It's all buttoned up now. Snapchat-745347969.mp4 On another note this I discovered Makes me think we should always periodically check our stuff. It's a fuel leak alright. Look know shiney and diesel smelling it is ? Also think I'm leaking oil from here too. Now if I could only find out where that transmission fluid is going.....

I haven't a clue how the lock up works with the valve body, maybe @Dynamic could explain how that works. In park or neutral about 300*, In drive or reverse about 450* The difference is with the position of accelerator pedal. The higher the sw the faster the fueling comes on. Even with the higher popped injectors, running SW9 I can't run Timing on 4, Even with a higher TM# this still effects spool up. However, backing timing to 2 on SW9, with TM 5 my truck seems to spool faster. The only difference I see is in low boost driving and idling. I can see 550* on TM 4 vs 450 on TM3, however changing the Timing also seems to effect this. Smoke will be less on SW9 with the timing on 3. Depending on the size of the injectors you may or may not see the lag. That's because the TM changes the fueling, not the SW# My truck's stalling issues im 90% sure were valve body related to my DTT transmission. As the stalling is nowhere nearly as bad with the Dynamic VB in it. Ironically the stalling didnt' change with the higher popped injectors, the stalling was a little less with the DTT valve body, but the dynamic valve body reduced the stalling allot. Irony has it that the shift linkage came undone on the rooster comb, got knows how long that has been going on for. But I'm working on fixing it this week. I'll add some photos, My mistake is that I blasted and painted the levers, and I suspect that what I thought was tight, was not tight. And the linkages and stuff came loose. I have to diagnose what the root cause is.

Irony is that I don't believe that the stalling issue is related so much to the smarty, because the truck is theoritically at idle validation. Now with that being said, the truck did stall quite a bit this week. And of course I lost reverse and neutral. I can go from P to R and have Reverse. If I go P-N-R I get nothing. If I go from P-N-D-N it stays in drive. I spoke to dynamic and he thinks that it is a manual valve, which makes sense. I downed the truck at 2,331 miles after pressing it into service. I plan to drop the valve body tomorrow am, and look at it thoroughly. I'm going to also pull the spare rooster comb from my spare valve body and install it into the Dodge. I'm hoping that what ever is wrong is something stupid. I'll keep everyone posted.

I bought my replacement fan from the dealership. It even included the fan plug as well. My new one works great. Now for the rest of my truck ........

Its fairly simple on these trucks. And most likely the resister switch is going out. The actual switch had a almost noon existent fail rate.

Not really. I bent the sending unit because I had someone return the truck to me on empty and I barely made it to the gas station up the road. I bent the sender and never looked back. Back then empty line was about 31 gallons haha.

I have had my Dainin DiProcols for years. And I love them. Top is egt, then trans temp, followed by fuel pressure on the A-Pillar, I also have a 0-35psi boost gauge on the steering column. They match the truck exactly. I even tapped into the stock wiring so they all dim and brighten in unison.

I've started it up without grid heaters down to 22f and then it wouldn't start. However with the grid heaters hooked up its started up to 15f without issue. That's the coldest we have had this winter. I'm unsure as to what the stall speed is. That is why I'm curious about the path of the fluid thought the valve body. It's ironic that it's only upon start up that it does it. And only in drive. Not reverse. But putting it into reverse for 40 seconds cures it for good and I can drop it into drive and have no issues. I love this new valve body

Yea, I bent my sending unit. Empty on E to me is 25 gallons, lmao 1/8th tank is about 23 haha. haven't had an issue since.

I have 100's from DAP that i got reset to 322BAR and I love every moment of it.

If its in great shape hold onto it. They are retaining their value. Plus at this rate, anything newer will have more issues usually, reliably is always suspect.

What does our 136Amp alternators put out at idle?

I wonder if the sending unit is in the tank correctly. Mine did that and I think it was the way the sending unit was sitting in the tank. I suspect it was cocked or something.

@Dynamic Any ideas as to why this is? Granted my truck doesn't stall when warm, or after its had 30 seconds in reverse, which is totally different from that goofball DTT VB that stalled 7/10 times going into gear regardless of temperature haha.

I think it's two fold 1. It is really bizarre. Stalling on SW7 TM3, T4, D4 is not anywhere near as bad as SW7 TM3, T3, D4. The change in engine note from SW5 to SW7 on T4 is noticeable, but I can't figure out why the stalling is less. I know that the truck on SW7 T4, produces more smoke when standing on it, and I believe that I'll move back to SW5, with the timing on 4, because the egt's and boost are much lower running down the road then compared to SW7. However, smoke is non existent with the injectors at 322bar. I have no smoke at all, no coal, sometimes if i hammer it in 4th it is a light grey haze, but nothing like coal rolling, and you have to try. Even at idle in Drive (like at a traffic light), there is almost 100F difference between T3 and T4 on the pyrometer. Just weird. And the talking heads will never understand how this happens because even thought i wrote the article and @Me78569 did his data logging, well never get what changes between T3 and T4, if the truck is at an idle(or coming off idle) 2. The tighter torque converter will let the truck stall in Drive, but not reverse. Ive had it start up and not stall going into reverse from Park on my truck. However going from Park to Drive at 20F will result in a stall. Exception is if I put it into reverse for 30 seconds and hold my foot on the brake, then put it into drive. No stalling then.

I'll try to get some pressure tests done. How would you like me to test them? and what procedure? Quite literally, the only way it downshifts into M2 is if I O/D off and then don't touch the pedal, and sometimes it will downshift around 30mph, and then usually shifts right into 1st if i downshift it. I know dtt did a wonder on it.

I called, but I can't remember if I left you a voicemail or not. It was I think a late Tuesday or Wednesday Night. I'm still trying to get my truck to downshift when I command it. I put it into manual 2 but it takes along time to downshift. I was thinking it would have taken less time. Like almost instant in this case?

Two things, 1. Funds are really tight, I havn't had the chance to find the part online to buy it. 2. the truck was pressed into service as soon as sea trials were done. I've driven almost 1,600 miles since the truck was back in service. I've been running it 7 days a week non stop.

Hey Guys, as you know I'm one of a few guys running a modified truck around here with larger injectors popped to 322BAR. So far the truck is running 100HP injectors a Dynamic Valve Body, and a Smarty. Current Smarty Settings are SW#7 TM3, T3,D4. The truck runs fairly well, and there is no smoke unless you really try. Even so its a light haze when passing. Ive played with the Timing and TM settings, and can say both have caused stalling issues at varying temperatures. However the stalling is alleviated significantly when you put the truck into Reverse for 30 seconds, then drop it into gear. I have over 2,000 miles now under my belt with these injectors, and have determined that depending on what settings you have on the smarrty it also effects when the truck won't start due to cold temperatures. On the current settings the truck will not start at about 22F without grid heaters. It will crank over and miss like its got air in the fuel. However 30 seconds with the grids and it fires right up.