pepsi71ocean

i highly doubt, i had the intank pump and it has a bypass built into it, and you cant draw fuel through it too save your life.

Update:Spoke to DTT and they said the trans should be done by the end of the week, and well discuss shipping it back and what exactly was wrong with it. Im curious to see what the root cause of all of this was.

did you confirm that you have the intank fuel pump? If so do as he says and pull it out and clean it, swap filters and see how it goes.

My honest opinion, is that a 150 is over kill, and alot of stuff is over kill. go with either an AD or a FASS 95gph pump. don't go with the DDRP or HPFP, because they are not true kits, just replacements. the DDRP and HPRP move about 70 gallons per hour which is about double what the stock carter system moves. 95gph is more then enough. My advice is go for one of the full replacement setups either the fass 95 or the AD 95, i prefer FASS since it more or less is a bolt on DIY kit. the new FASS pumps now come with the proer nipples and you can use spin on fleetguard filters now, instead of the FASS specific ones from the past. (they were Fleetguard filters, but were hard to get. http://www.fassride.com/shop/fuel-air-separation-systems/fass-hd-series.php I have the HD series, and the 95gph one, and it supplies more fuel pressure then i will ever need. and if you are worried about psi, get some USCG approved steel renforced fuel line (1/2) and get a 1/2 draw straw and run it from your tank to your fass, then run 3/8's every where else, you will notice almost 0 psi loss since the negative side has more volume now.

that was probably my videos, loli say its best to pull the lines off completely, since i have seen other people have issues with their lines not sealing properly afterwards.

make sure to loosen up the blue lock connectors so that your lines can go back together without scratching up the ends.When in doubt watch my video in the 24v section in the articles area.

So, i finally got the trans out of the truck today and several noted issues arose today. 1. I was missing two bell housing bolts, along with 1 cross member bolt, a transfer case bolt. 2. only 2 of the 5 remaining bell housing bolts were even tight, the other 3 were easily taken off by hand with ratchet. When i say loose i mean just no effort was needed to break it loose. 3. one item of concern is the amount of play between my TC and the flex plate, something that i'll discuss with DTT. Oh and the -=-=-=- Spacer was installed, HAHAHAH I really have no clue why it was there but it was. good news is that the outer shaft on the input shaft was nice and solid, however the inside one was free moving. Oh and for those of you looking to d0 this, PLEASE put some shims between your cross member and the front of the engine, mine came to rest into the radiator after i got the trans out.

care to elaborate? im courious. Oh and a Built auto is worth its weight in gold.

I went with DTT, and if my trans gets sorted out then i'll be happy. Let me know how ATS is, i have heard some really mixed reviews about their tranny's.

don't go with a race unit, talk to Goerend, or Garmon. and ask for a towing, HD unit. tell these guys what your doing with it and you will not have any issues.Personally, Goerend has lock up ability in all forwards gears, which is a plus if your tran braking, or need to lock it up.

its personal decision IMO, a built automatic will do just as much good, it is a night and day difference towing.i wish i took a few videos of my 99 before i had to pull the trans on it, but i can tell it handled the loads quite differently.

what is his rail pressure?is he blowing bubbles out of his coolant bottle? did he do a compression test?

go here and read my article. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/39-transmission-systems/257-automatic-transmission-diagnostic-chart sounds like you have sticking valves

huh? so is snug even to tight?

why not run the water from number 6 slot into your heater core instead of your bypass pipe?

snug, and no more

ok fist lets clear some stuff up.the TC not locking up can be caused by two things, 1. not commanded lockup, or 2 the trans is slipping/low line pressure/ or work lock up plate.the throttle doesn't have as much impact for unlocking the trans just in the case that you move the pedal quite far very fast. it causes the kick down cable to move, after the KD cable moves the line pressure enough it will cause the transmission to downshift. unless it is commanded to do so by the PCM. (for 4-3 downshift, or 3-2 Downshift.the TC lock up may be electronically controlled, however it is line pressure that creates it, if you lack the line pressur5e to lock it up the TCC can be fine but the LP out of the trans will be poor.I would drop your Valve body out disassemble it and clean it all, and then put it back, i would readjust your bands, and also flush the trans with ATF fluid, you could also blow out the output line from the trans and try to empty the TC of as much fluid as you can.The longer that crap is in there the worse it will be.After that fill it up and run the truck for 100-200 miles then drop the pan and put new fluid in. do this several times, to try and purge the crap out of the trans.I would think that as long as you have band adjustment left that you might be able to get5 away with this.Your transmissions lack of shifting without getting off of the throttle is a typical clogged Governor pressure soloniod.IMO, a case of ATF 4, and a few filters and a very good cleaning job may yield you some life out of the trans to save up for a new one which is definitely in your future.If you want you can read up on my AT trans diagnostics chart in General Cummins.

DO like the rest of us, and do it right when yo do go for it. your transmissions output line pressures should be there at idle, unless its not in lock up. Once in lock up you should see with a pressure gauge the value go up with rpm. No, the Lock up solenoid is in the VB, it increases line pressure flow to overcome the springs inside, that then pushes your pressure plate against the clutches and the front of the TC. This increased line pressure will cause the output line to rise as well. the truck will lock up based on speed, and throttle load, if you increase your throttle to fast it will unlock, if the o/D is off it will lock 3rd automatically. The PCM is programmed to lock the truck in 3rd automatically and stay locked regardless if the the trucks O/D is off, i believe (could be wrong)

When in lock up your TC is being fed line pressure, it should be about 80 psi in Neutral. Now when in lock up you will notice you have pressure coming out of your transmission this output line going to the cooler is the output line from the TC.When you use a lock up switch your commanding the solenoid to feed line pressure to the TC to allow for it to lock up.You also need higher line pressures to keep your clutch packs happy, especially 4th the O/D is a weak setup on its own.Now as for towing, light weight towing a single is fine, but if your towing heavier loads a 3x TC is what you need. A triple allows you to add more surface area, the stock single disk is only about 33 square inches of lining between your pressure plate and the front of the TC. Now a triple disk is closer to 130 Square inches. this extra lining allows for better grip in lock up, but it allows for better lock up at the same line pressures.Its hard to explain but for example, If your TC is running 100PSI of line pressure at 55Mph and your accelerating, it will slip, but you could have the same 100psi and same set up, except a triple disk, it will not slip because of the increased surface area of lock up.the same can be used for engine braking. When braking you need to keep your line pressures up, which is indeed controlled VIA the throttle position. However built automatics usually run higher then stock line pressures off the bat so they don't need to worry as much. As practice, i usually keep my pedal off idle so as to keep the pressures up a bit. But its best to Keep your engine rpm's above 1200 rpm's for the sake of the TC and the TC springs inside.I agree, a billet input shaft is most warranted, because if you break a input shaft, usually you trash your pump, and sometimes the 2nd gear band area.I also recommend either a strengthened SFI flex plate, or a Billeted one, but a stocker should be replaced if you plan to use the trans as a Eugine brake, mainly because the torque reversals going back and fourth can cause the center to tear out/ or cause the plate to become out of round..

i can't see it?

I would test first by unhooking your Alternator and seeing if your truck stalls out when put into gear.If it does then i would see if there is another VP44 to swap with as it could be the issue. I have shocked my truck a few times by crossing my wrench across battery terminals, but i have never taken it from engine alternator to positive side of the battery.If your a 4WD, try putting the TC into neutral and see if it stalls out just free wheeling.

Well i spoke to DTT, and they said if i cover the cost of shipping that they will gladly take the trans in and give it a once over.So it looks like ima pulling my transmission. This time i am doing it. Screw PATS and their crap.

here are you getting your trans temperature from? the pan or the output line?That is something of concern, either they adjusted the bands wrong, or something is causing low line pressure.

Yea they built it, along with the whole trans, i simply picked it up, and took it to pats.I got off the phone with bill a little bit ago, and he said that at this point the VB has to go back to DTT. The only oddity is that all of the valves are grey inside, i though they should have been black? I did get my billeted internals, (servo and what not), but the valves are throwing me off.I really wish Mike would answer his phone, where is the hell is he:banghead: He would love to hear about this mess im in......Good news is since the truck will be down for a week or more, im going to continue to do resto mod work. Head studs, boost elbow, and more rust warfare are in my future.

With input from my thread on the CF several people have stated i should drop the trans and send it to them for a "once" over. What are your ideas guys? is it worth it to do that?Anyways,I'll speak to bill and see what he says. I have the pan dropped, and im working on dropping the Valve Body tomorrow. Im exhausted and frustrated.Talk about a blind rage i was in, i am so pissed off at the mechanical shop that did the trans install, as i blame them for this. If i could go back in time i would have pulled the truck and then hoped to have installed it right the first time.If bill and them will take the trans back and give it a once over, i will put out a feeler on the NJ Cummins forum on FB for a few guys who can help out.I cannot curse, but every other word in this post was a curse, im just so pissed off because i feel like the odds a DTT sent a lemon trans are must less likely, then say the PATS Automotive who i feel secretly screwed with my trans in the hopes it would fail.