pepsi71ocean

it should load on anything over the stock settings. i used level 3 as an example, but yest until you get a good TC and valve body keep off the pedal with that smarty, she will eat your trans and then ask for seconds.

the smarty will auto load it if you load the smarty onto the truck.So load it to level 3 then start and run the truck, then turn it off, and return to stock the only thing that stays is the high idle.

sounds like it is the cord, but in reality either could be at fault.In order to swap out you need to pup a freeze plug, so my advice is to drain the coolant down into bottles, once the radiator is almost empty about 2/3's the way you should be suffice to do it.I used the middle plug under the turbo. Alternatively you could ohm text the wires on the plug.

after my OEM one died, (not sure if it was the cord or the element,) i went and bought a Cummins one. This one gives me 120F temps at 30F and hold 120 as far as i can remember.

the trans is very tight, i think as tight as a manual tranny. The triple disk by its self puts a good shock load, the truck drops from 850rpm to 625 just putting it in gear, before it raises back up to 850:smart: but i have already hauled with it and she is a charm,

with my built auto i do what you do sometimes, i just leave it in drive, and she puts a hell of a load, i see 450-500F easily at idle, but its best to high idle away for 2-5 mins then take off and drive.

Yep, that problem is now a part of the past. now the next problem, the dreaded (what i call the Jimbowe syndrome:wow: ) So its been hovering around the 20-30's in the morning, fired the truck up and bam she stalled when i threw it in gear, i was like ZOMG, WTF. A call to DTT yeilded this TSB on the matter... TSB 18-014-01 -Performance Enhancement for Severe Cold Weather Environments (Stalling) Symptoms/Condition: Customers may experience hard starting and/or idle speed fluctuations. Cummins 24-valve engines used with automatic transmissions can be severely effected by the use of sub-grade #1 diesel fuel when ambient temperatures are below 0C (32F), typically prevalent during the winter months in Alaska, Northwestern Canada, and similar climates/temperatures elsewhere. But, after some experimenting today i noticed that if i idle the truck for 2-4 mins in Neutral then put it into a gear she didn't die, and it was the same temp outside today as it was yesterday. (and yes it stalled as well on first try, then i idled it for a few mins then threw it into gear and wham problem solved. So im going to eventually take the truck in for a TSB flash. The only other thing is the truck runs solid, i towed my first trailer with it a 4,000lbs motorcycle trailer, she drives like a big rig, it makes you want to keep driving. she accelerates hard to 2,000rpm then shifts to about 1,600, and continues that run all the way up. But yea i get smoke !, on ever loaded shift in 3 and 4th gear, when ever the engine is below 1,300rpm (give or take), so i have to figure that out as well. I think it might be my hard foot, b3ecause i noticed if i haul heavier (like the motorcycle trailer) then the truck doesn't go that low, but stays in that 1,600-2,000 rpm zone. Will upload a video of the driving later for inquiring minds.

i remember reading somewhere that when you have the pumps out, take the new pump and rotate the shaft until it matches the key way on the old pump. then put some loc tite on it or motor oil and it will stay in place. but then again if you use the alternator pulley to rotate the engine assembly, make sure your key way is up on the VP gear, this (i believe marks the position of the Key way on the VP-44)

like i said its a good loose calculation method. Im curious to see what mine will run on the dyno once i get the whole thing together with the smarty unlocked.

the rule of thumb is that for every 10 HP you require 1 psi of boost, now of course the engine will draw what it needs on its own, but that is rule of thumb. it is a close calculation as running a larger turbo will mean more CFM thus lower boost numbers, a HX40/35 will run the same cfm running 3-4psi less. So when your buddy says i have 500 HP and you say what is your boost, and he says 30psi you know he is full of ____. In order to really see any use out of the 60HP injectors you need a boost elbow, adjusted to 30psi. why? because now your allowing the engine to grab what it needs to be happy. The example.. Your engine is 215HP pump, add your 60HP injectors and you now have 275HP, but your still only running about 225hp because your waste gate will only let you build about 22psi of boost. adjust it with a boost elbow and you will have your 275HP because you can hit the loose estimation of 27.5psi. Now add a smarty (another 60HP), and you went from 275 to 335 HP, convert over to 33.5 and you are now almost to the ceiling of the HX-35 turbo. Now to skew the numbers. The smarty will add 60HP with stock injectors, add more mechanical changes and your HP level may be closer to 65-70HP(because the change in injectors can account for a variable. The reason i say stick with 60 or 75's is because if you tow and tow heavy you will find you will be around your top MAP for the HX35 turbo, especially if you have a programmer, because the programmer will allow for more fueling, and thus raise your boost requirements. Also i too planned for a VP-44 change, the SO 215 pumps no longer exist they are all 235 pumps. So for me 235+60+60 is 355, or 35.5psi meaning the HX35 is now at full capacity. Like stated above it is not an exact science but it works good for loose calculation:smart:

i like them alot, you do feel the difference, and with the edge comp you will be maxed out on your turbo. i went with 60's over 75's because i never planned to upgrade the turbo, but if your going to swap to a HX 40/35 then 75's or 100's would be good too. The most you want to go with a stock turbo (and your maybe a HY-35(not HX-35) then i wouldn't go much over 60-75HP because of EGT's. you must factor in the other things (so 215HP, 60HP+60HP is 33.5), meaning you need to run 34psi of boost, but if yours is a HY-35 then your the 235 pump which puts you right at the max for your Turbo which is 35.5psi. MPG wise i saw about 2-2.5 mpg gain, better low end response and the turbo lights quicker. He has to be careful because he is a 200, were not sure if he is a HX or HY turbo, if he i a HY then he will be maxed out with 60's.

i went a step above the 275's and got 60HP injectors, they give you a real 275HP, over the 40 or so you see with the RV 275's. as for install and removal of injectors see my write up guide here http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/25-fuel-system/255-24v-injector-install-video it includes videos and everything.

the thing about down hill is it would trap the fuel in the lines. IMO i have found that parking nose ___ up or nose down didn't make a difference if it was the extremes, for some reason she still would loose prime when it was cold. Did you consider pulling the injectors out and the cross over tubes and the lines off and doing a good once over inspection, and checking the O-rings on everything? if it is above 40F truck will not lose prime. i started my truck up this morning it has not been run in 5 days,m and she starts up without issue. last week it was below 40F, and she would hard start every morning, even if it was 50F by the time i started working on the truck.

if you tell him what your plans are, and what your doing im sure he can accommodate, and if not tell him you did some research into the matter.

welcome to the club.I struggled to figure out what my problem was for 6 months. 6 months of tightening fitting, hell i even hose clamped every fuel line fitting that had hose, and when i was all said and done it was the front of the VP-44.It took a long time before the fuel really started to become noticeable, mainly because i forgot what engine oil was to look like.Then one day i pulled my engine oil dipstick and said wait its green"!Even though i have been watching my engine oil turn green with envy, i have yet to notice my oil level rising, not sure why.

Can you expand more on your weeping injector lines? if they are loose i would say loosen the bars that hold the lines together and then loosen then re torque them to a bit more then snug. Seems that those weeping lines can be causing the timing knock. Not sticking injector, i think he answered his own question... timing knock

im cutting and pasting what i have saved from a file that is going to become a write up some day.... HAS FIRST/REVERSE ONLY (NO 1-2 OR 2-3 UPSHIFT) 1. Governor Circuit Electrical Fault. 1. Test using DRB® scan tool and repair as required. 2. Valve Body Malfunction. 2. Repair stuck 1-2 shift valve or governor plug. 3. Front Servo/Kickdown Band Damaged/Burned. 3. Repair/replace. NO 3-4 UPSHIFT 1. O/D Switch In OFF Position. 1. Turn control switch to ON position. 2. Overdrive Circuit Fuse Blown. 2. Replace fuse. Determine why fuse failed and repair as necessary (i.e., shorts or grounds in circuit). 3. O/D Switch Wire Shorted/Open Cut. 3. Check wires/connections with 12V test lamp and voltmeter. Repair damaged or loose wire/connection as necessary. 4. Distance or Coolant Sensor Malfunction. 4. Check with DRB® scan tool and repair or replace as necessary. 5. TPS Malfunction. 5. Check with DRB® scan tool and replace if necessary. 6. Neutral Sense to PCM Wire Shorted/Cut. 6. Test switch/sensor as described in service section and replace if necessary. Engine no start. 7. PCM Malfunction. 7. Check with DRB® scan tool and replace if necessary. 8. Overdrive Solenoid Shorted/Open. 8. Replace solenoid if shorted or open and repair loose or damaged wires (DRB® scan tool). 9. Solenoid Feed Orifice in Valve Body Blocked. 9. Remove, disassemble, and clean valve body thoroughly. Check feed orifice. 10. Overdrive Clutch Failed. 10. Disassemble overdrive and repair as needed. 11. Hydraulic Pressure Low. 11. Pressure test transmission to determine cause. 12. Valve Body Valve Stuck. 12. Repair stuck 3-4 shift valve, 3-4 timing valve. 13. O/D Piston Incorrect Spacer. 13. Remove unit, check end play and install correct spacer. 14. Overdrive Piston Seal Failure. 14. Replace both seals. 15. O/D Check Valve/Orifice Failed. 15. Check for free movement and secure assembly (in piston retainer). Check ball bleed orifice. STUCK IN LOW GEAR (WILL NOT UPSHIFT) 1. Throttle Linkage Mis-adjusted/Stuck. 1. Adjust linkage and repair linkage if worn or damaged. Check for binding cable or missing return spring. 2. Gearshift Linkage Mis-adjusted. 2. Adjust linkage and repair linkage if worn or damaged. 3. Governor Component Electrical Fault. 3. Check operating pressures and test with DRB® scan tool, repair faulty component. 4. Front Band Out of Adjustment. 4. Adjust Band. 5. Clutch or Servo Malfunction. 5. Air pressure check operation of clutches and bands. Repair faulty component. CREEPS IN NEUTRAL 1. Gearshift Linkage Mis-adjusted. 1. Adjust linkage. 2. Rear Clutch Dragging/Warped. 2. Disassemble and repair. 3. Valve Body Malfunction. 3. Perform hydraulic pressure test to determine cause and repair as required. Hope this helps. As for band adjustment http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/transmission/automatic/AT_band_adj.htm Also i would talk to one of the reputable builders here DTT Goerend etic and see what they have going. i know stephan @DTT always has a deal going on i think they were selling billet single disk trannys and a general rebuild for something like 2,800 something like that let me look... http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/dtt-diesel-transmission-technology/439277-winter-transmission-parts-sale-must-see.html http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/dtt-diesel-transmission-technology/433581-want-build-your-trans-budget.html If not talk to him tell him John from NJ (ie pepsi) sent ya. If money is super tight i would buy a stock dodge rebuild buy a built VB and TC and call it a day should cost you like 3,000 when done, or for the extra 1,000 have it done for you. Sad fact is by the time in done writing this i'll have my transmission write up done.

so i was not alone in my thinking, (lost this thread for a reply).... I agree with you because what is the advantage of boosting unless your increasing the amount of air into the engine to raise cylinder pressure. The other guy has it right for most normal engines, but we must remember that non NA engines cannot achieve anything over 100% vE.

you would just use the ECM's fuel pump lead. I am somewhat puzzled as to why you wouldn't just hook the negative up to the battery and not the frame. you would want the best connection possible and that would be to run back to the battery.

what you are describing is the typical wiring setup for a FASS/airdog system. You put the relay on the positive side, and then the Positive voltage from the ECM powers the relay, thus opening the relay up and allowing electricity to flow to the fuel pump. I find that its really hard to kill a relay, and the voltage shouldn't go backwards as they will not be inter connected, so if the fuel pump goes nuts, it won't effect the ECM, just batter or PDC (which ever you hook it up to, The ECM positive runs at i believe 8 volt, or 8 am, (idr), you need to run on 12v@ 20 amp as the FASS 95 runs on 20-25 amp as it has a 30 Am inline fuse in it. Running a full sized fass/ airdog pump will burden the power from the ecm.

You take the ECM positive and run it to the relay, that will then power the coil spring, to open the switch inside the relay, this switch then has the positive coming from the battery(or PDC), and the other side goes to the pump, the negative goes to the ground. Here is a link to a site with a relay explaining how it goes http://www.r1200gs.info/howto/relay.html If i was not tied up writing up this interrogatories i would have shot a how to video by now.

it was my understanding that the 4,500 psi is the pop pressure, as if you take 4,500psi and times it by 6 injectors you get a number like 27,000psi total, that i always assumed the pump had to make in order to feed all 6 lines the proper pop pressure???

If you go digging around by where your lift pump is (on the block) you will see a two pronged cord, run the positive to a relay the ground to the other side using a real relay set up, then power directly off the PDC. I'll make note on adding this to my FASS guide when i get to finishing it this week.

can you explain the TM problem? and yes there is no real top end at all but they are good down low for our trucks. i would like to see a larger HP increase on top, but then again smarty says the top end is proportional, its 60HP with stock injectors, change your fueling and air you could be higher.

while i need to finish it i have the ultimate FASS guide under general Cummins/ Fuel systems