pepsi71ocean

Fuel pressure is important, but not as important as rail pressure, on any CR engine rail pressure is as important as fuel pressure is on any vp truck.especially if your modified.

yes guys in 2000.5 they swapped to HY-35 turbo's, he needs a Boost elbow, but no shame in that, i think the elbow works better

to expand on this. i have the OEM gasket on the truck, and OEm studs, with a boost elbow going on the truck i plan to run about 30-33psi as well, but can i replace each stud 1-1 or do i have the replace the gasket as well? Im considerijng either torquing the studs, or getting aftermarket ones what are your opinoins?

i got my 4 inch tbe from walt at FTE diesel, but i also would suggest a Pac Elbow if you are looking for truly better flow, as it replaces the crappy head unit on the turbo flange anyways.Unless your getting a PAC brake that is not inline.

the problem i see with a 351w i the size of the exhaust, your almost no better off with a hy, unless im missing something. What makes the HX 35/40 great is you get the compressor size of the HX 40, but with the spool up of a 35. a streight up HX 40 requires alot of air to keep it moving, and i think this is why they kept it off of the 5.9l's ad used them on the larger motors. IMO 30-32psi is a little low im my opinion for the setup you have towing wise. I stayed under 75 for this very reason, i went with the 60's because i felt it would hold up much better giving me a sturdy 275HP. While i do not have a boost gauge i will be making notes on my boost pressure and its relation to EGT's running empty and loaded in the future, especially after the boost elbow goes in.

you would be better off with a HX35/40, also did you try a boost elbow, those HX-40's are really big i don't know if your getting the right spool up with it, maybe try a CAM? Now you have me wondering because with 60's and a smarty i couldn't break 1100 going up a hill hauling 15,000lbs

im a 99, so i have the hx, im so happy they didn't switch till 2000:lol: the j Hook will help out alot, but i would think he would be running a little on the high side.

even with the Smarty and the 60Hp injectors and boost elbow you think?

So much has transpired since i started this thread....I would like to have a low stall converter, but i wonder if those can be "found", seem like fun to watch the rpm's drop a few hundred on lock up.I will talk to Stephan about the planetary gears, I did go with a Billet input shaft, and flex plate.I will also discuss the harsh shifting, over some more easy going shifting as well.( I had a shop drop my trans because i have been working so much and they took out my trans pan, so i'll be getting a double deep pan will cooling fins on it.Stephan said he has a new transmission cooler coming out soon i think.Still taking advice on this build.

Call Walt at FTE Diesel or Jacob at Diesel Auto power. Walt got me a deal on my 4inch pipe and i got a performance resonator as well. IMO ditch the CAT and the rest of the stuff, put a performance muffler on it or resonator if you tow and be done with it. back pressure after the turbo is not desired, unlike gas engines which use back pressure to increase their fuel economy.

My OEM filter is long gone, i can't even find the parts for it anymore, this is how much faith i had in the FASS fuel filters when i put it on my truck!

i do believe that your turbo's flange is 4inch. My thoughts are 4 inch will be the best for a stock truck. Anything over 4 inch is useless unless your trying or aiming for anything over 500HP, and even then 4inch will handle it. What i found is when i took out my stock exhaust and put in a 4 inch exhaust my EGT's were lower, way lower then they ever were stock. IMO a 4 inch exhaust would be the best bet for a stock truck, it lowest the back pressure the most once you leave the turbo flange, which some degree of heat is desired to allow for the exhaust the pull more air out. The ideal setup for a 2nd gen truck (with the HX-35) is a pac elbow and then a 4inch exhaust, the is no restriction from the turbo's turbine all the way to the tip. If set up right, between BHAF and a good 4 inch exhaust you should see slightly better spoolup times, but once again the best spool up ill be seen with some more fuel on the low end.

it gets its filtration over a multi pass system, bottom like is the FASS 95 fuel filter is marginal compared to a Baldwin1212, which is rated at i think 2um on a single pass. EDIT: sorry the OEM filter filters better then then aftermarket company ones, but that is because BOSCH set the standard for that filter.

Actually, the only place you want back pressure is between your exhaust and your turbo, once it exits the turbine side you want NO back pressure. And to the OP, the reason you have a sluggish low end is because it is a common rail, most of the older mechanical diesel had something "like" on demand torque being they spool up quickly, ' Add a smarty and add fuel on the low end and you will notice a huge difference, the stock programming was designed to save your transmission. I drive a large international 4400 around at work, and with a DT560 inside it i found the best ondemand torque you get out of that CR's is when you have a load on it

the left line is ~165F the one on the right i never bothered to guess at.

there you are! i knew it was a matter of time before you pop'ed into this thread. what do you think of this filtration kit being post FASS but pre VP-44? http://www.glacierdieselpower.com/product.aspx?pf_id=FW1220-TFK Or this one with the heater http://www.glacierdieselpower.com/product.aspx?pf_id=MK79852-BLKH

yes they are, they are all rated for a multi pass system, talk to AHD64 about filters for the fas and airdog systems. A separate filter after the FASS/Airdog pump that does a good filtration, IMO while the design of the fass/airdog is good, there is to much filtering going on. For example it filters through the F/W and FF multiple times, however most of it goes back to the tank right after the fuel pump unit, why waste good filter media on that, that is why it is rated with a much lower filtration rate. Does it do its job, yes but it is marginal. Now the last that i did much research i decided to keep running the FASS filters for my FASS 95, being that if i filter the fuel first through that then it should be 90% there, then if i added something from here http://www.glacierdieselpower.com/dept.aspx?dept_id=08-001 it should be good to go. AHD64D sent me here, and fter reading his massive thread on the Cummins forum i just wish i could afford the whole thing.

just remember that those airdog and fass filters are crap, LOL

our tractor is i think an 04 or 05 model and its mechanical injection as well?

as such, any older mechanical truck will take more abuse compared to a CR. our VP trucks don;'t run near the pressure that they do.

with such high egt's and lowering boost numbers i wonder if your turbo is not up to par, you said you -plugged the waste gate, it makes me wonder.my advice is to drive it to my house and let me mess with it for a week or so i'll figure it out for you.Does your motor hard start? did you do a compression test on the cylinders? shoot the exhaust for temperature variance? you mention your hitting 1600F for exhaust temps that is ungodly high most heavily modified trucks.1,600F is around that temperature where things start to melt and warp, where an engine can become worn for all you know that the inter cooler leak was from back pressure when you let off without a blow off valve, or the cylinders are getting weak from excessive temperature.im just throwing this out there.

i want to say the little filters, they look about the same size as mikes photo up there on his 150. im digging up a photo to post here as we speak

what about a fass 95 series? what would i need to do to change the fuel filter and f/w seperator over to somethign that is more easily found and also rated to provide good protection to my truck, I finally swapped in some new injectors and i have a VP-44 on the way as well, ide hate to have non standard filters that are more or less crap.

this is true however we must also realize that the edge is not as tight in tolerance as the Pinter and the nozzles are when in operation, they only move very little.

After much back and forth arguing i decided to do a full build, my new job assignment more or less requires a truck that is 4wd capable, reliable and gets great MPG.and as such my 99 is well suited minus the missing trans.The problem is the job is in Philly, which is nothing but traffic, mostly going home that is, i'll sit in traffic for the first hour of my drive, once i get out of the construction zone im all good and its highway speeds from there.After a failed attempt at a shift kit install, i sent the kit back to DTt with my VB, where they have been sitting for a few months.I decided to just get a built transmission, i decided on DTT since they already have the shift kit, and Stephan is a site sponsor, plus they are good people to deal with.the question is how do you guys think a fully built trans will handle the drive, plus towing i still tow, and there are opportunities to tow as well as i might buy my first toy hauler as well.I will be adding a Pac Brake on the truck down the road to aid in braking and in warm up.my other question is can a fully built trans handle towing in 4th gear? i used to tow in 4th on level ground with my stocker trans but that might have been part of the problem. i will not like when i say the Camper sticker said that the GVW was 13,900.Now i have hauled before way heavier stuff then this, i just want to know how the built trans will handle the constant double duty as a DD and a heavy hauler.I will be posting videos once this truck is all together again. i miss the sound of my truck