Ravewolf

I was not aware of this.

I have a FASS and a ½" fuel line from the pump to the vp44, and I use marvels mystery oil whenever I fill the tank. But since it's the cheaper and easier option, I'll replace the injection pump and I guess put in another filter like you did. What are your thoughts on Blue Chip Diesel? They're super expensive but I'd rather pay a chunk for a unit that'll last the life of the truck. I really want big power though. Not sure if it's feasible with a vp44 unless I spent $4k on a bigger pump. Like I said I'm fixing to tear the entire truck apart and scrap the body because it's pretty much junk and I don't like it anymore. So I got time to gather parts.

Well, it's hard to swap a 24v cummins into a Chevy (which I'm hell bent to do) and keep the wiring and such. The simpler the better, unless someone makes a standalone harness, or knows how to make one.

I'm doing it because I refuse to buy a new vp44 and have to worry about it taking a crap and not getting it warrantied because of the programmer. And what problems? I've been studying this for a while now, and it doesn't seem like it's that hard to do other than tuning,time,and money. Crazy Carl sells a complete kit minus the pump. The vp44 is a giant pile of crap and I'll never run one again. This truck has failed me twice because of it. I also refuse to leave it in that pos dodge body because everything is falling apart on it.

Well, pretty sure my truck ate it's last injection pump. Left me stranded in my home town. Parked it at my dads house so it's safe, but I'm done with the vp44. And the truck in general. I hated the tan interior on it, and the fact I couldn't find anything other than dash parts for it. I have a lock on an 86 square body with a junk 350 and axles. As soon as I can get that pile of crap dodge back home, it's getting ripped apart, and parts are going on that Chevy, minus the electric crap. I'm so over the wires and stuff, just want to p-pump it and never have to worry about it again. And having a truck which I can pretty much build out of a magazine. I always wanted another square, and a cummins one at that. And hopefully the new job I'm getting will make all that possible. So what's the going rate on a used quadzilla? And a good rebuilt engine pcm? Just had it rebuilt last April at the price of $700. I'm hoping thoroughbred diesel will take a dead vp as a core because they want $1k for a core on top of the $1300 for a mechanical pump. I'm also selling the transmission and transfer case in lieu of a 4r100 and an np205. With dodge axles. Transmission was rebuilt in 2019 by Super Stick transmission and I babied it because I didn't want to blow it up.

Update : New compressor shelled itself pretty bad. I think adding the oil the way I did caused it to fail as I added it before the orifice tube, and I'm pretty sure it packed up the filter. I pulled the orifice tube out and it had metal shavings in it. My question is, can I add the oil on the low side port before the filter/drier? I found a tool on Amazon that hooks there and let's you inject the oil directly without having to open the system up. It's gonna be a winter thing since I'm broke right now, and I'm replacing everything except for the lines. Also just toying with the idea of putting it together, putting a vacuum on it, then just letting a shop with a machine do it since it's automatic. I'm not the brightest when it comes to a/c work.

I didn't check but I will next time I have time off. And the gauges are ok, it's the r12 to r34 fitting adapters that are the problem. I'll replace them when I mess with it again.

Not sure, I didn't have the manifold hooked up to it because the fittings were kinda janky on the manifold. I ended up using a "gauge" off of one of the parts store cans. So is it safe to assume the new compressor is junk? Or can it be saved?

So I was given a 92 gmc sierra 1500 with a 4.3l. I've recently been trying to get the a/c going but have been having hell. When I first did anything with it, I just recharged it and got the compressor to spin but it wasn't blowing anything. So I suspected either the orifice tube was clogged or the compressor was junk. I ended up having to buy another line and condenser because the threads on the orifice tube line were galled and stripped. After I did that, I recharged the system and added about 1.5oz of oil to the system, and it was working beautifully until the compressor suddenly started grinding really bad, and it stopped blowing cold. I figured it gave up the ghost. I then ordered a new compressor, new condenser, and a new filter-drier. I flushed the crap out of the evaporater core, and the lines. I then added 5oz of oil to the system (compressor came with 3oz already), spun the new compressor ten times, put a vacuum to it for an hour, and slowly put two cans of refrigerant in. Worked beautifully again, but then the compressor wouldn't shut off. Then it started grinding. Then something popped really loud like a prv. I haven't touched the truck since, because I'm not sure if I fried the new compressor or not. Idk what I've done wrong this time. I did everything I could think of, including using almost all new components. And when I say I flushed the evaporater core, I mean I flushed it. I used a/c system flush, and when I ran out, used 95% alcohol to flush it. Then pushed compressed air through it until nothing came out. I did pour the oil into the hotside via the suction manifold off the back of the compressor. Then spun it to make sure it didn't pool up (if that's a thing?) Idk if anyone is an a/c tech on here, or has links to some good guides. I'm a diyer, so I have my own vacuum pump and a/c manifold, along with a flush gun, and other tools. But I'm shaky at best when it comes to a/c stuff. Thanks for any help/tips/admonishments

It's an he300vg

So I scored a vgt turbo off a 6.7 that hopefully will perform better than my current turbo(it's too big for the truck, and requires waaaaaaaaaaay too much fuel and timing to light off before 2500 rpm) but I need an adapter to bolt it to my current setup. What adapter will I need? I've been trying to find one but no dice. And yes, I have a computer to run the vgt. If anyone is interested I can possibly point you to the gentleman who made the computer kit(you have to solder it but it's not hard) and how to set it up.

What was the breadboard you used? And is the chip necessary? That breakout board has pins for stacking a shield on it

This is what I have to use as a pin breakout https://www.amazon.com/Terminal-Breakout-Shield-Module-Arduino/dp/B08LH5TCM5?pd_rd_w=08Uv4&content-id=amzn1.sym.3cb9b85f-43ef-4d4b-94d0-0a8efe2194e9&pf_rd_p=3cb9b85f-43ef-4d4b-94d0-0a8efe2194e9&pf_rd_r=3BXJJ0ZSXQH23PFQMB95&pd_rd_wg=99JM4&pd_rd_r=d02b3756-d0af-4761-89e2-ba517c9f2e75&pd_rd_i=B08LH5TCM5&psc=1&ref_=pd_bap_m_rp_1_qv That umax board won't work with this, will it?

I bought all the stuff including the 9924 chip and the obd adapter. My question is what do I do with the chip? Do I have to solder it to the board? Or to wires individually? Anyone got a complete picture of a setup?

I fixed it! Found a wire to my buss system I made was cooked through at the pdc. Did some moving of wires, and got the codes to clear (except for the abs but I know what that is). I'm so happy to have my truck back again after 6 months of being broken! But now I can't drive her because of the damn fuel prices. Fml.

I do. Most corporations now are more worried about the bottom line than integrity. It seems so bad they'll sell their own children to keep things in the red. I remember when I was little that Snap On was the tool of "professional" mechanics. Now I hear nothing but horror stories about junk ratchets and their power tools. This, to me, is indicative of the idea that numbers mean more than reputation, and no matter what, you have to make a certain profit, even if it damages your brand in the future. So what you're saying is I probably blew $115 on something I didn't need. Figures. Oh well, I'll change it anyway and keep the other one as a spare just in case.

I did yesterday. They offered to rebuild my computer again. I also ordered a genuine cummins map sensor since the one I have now was from O'Reillys. I was told our trucks don't mix well with aftermarket parts.

So, I'm still having the P0237 code problem, even after I sent my ecm (which was barely scraping by apparently) to ACS. I ended up shelling out the $499,plus another $165 for the wts light fix. Tried disconnecting the battery terminals to see if it was a ghost from the past, but the codes still won't clear. I tried just removing the quadzilla, and still no dice. I checked all three wires. Ground is grounding, 5 volt reference is getting power, and the signal wire shows continuity between the ecm connector and the map sensor connector. Wtf am I missing? I'm seriously considering pulling everything, selling it, and going to a P-pump. Because I'm disgusted with the computer bs already. Seriously, I just spent almost $700 and it's still not happy. I stg this truck is cursed. And I'm probably getting karma back for something stupid a long time ago. 😭😭😭😭

Well, since I don't have a drbiii tool, and I followed and tested everything, it's safe to say the ecm is toast. Fml. This truck has made me literally go through every major part on it at this point lol. I hate it.

So I'm trying to figure out a previous problem where I suspect I fried my ecm. Long story short I did the wt wire mod on the truck, but didn't crimp a battery terminal right, and had a bad time. I sent the quadzilla module off, and they checked it out, and all is well with it. Truck is still throwing the same codes in the title, and with my janky Bosch scantool, I can see the map sensor still isn't reading, staying permanently stuck on 29.5hg. I tested all the wires, I'm getting good ground to the map sensor, and getting the 5 volts to it, but no signal on the wire. I have the ecm directly plugged into the map sensor (not through quadzilla) and the truck still shows no change. Can't erase codes either. I really really really suspect I fried my ecm. But I want to be 100% sure before I yank it and send it off to be repaired. The guides on here say to use a drbiii but I'm not shelling out $2500 for a used unit. Is there any other way to test these codes more accurately? I know someone with a snap on scan tool. I'm also highly considering just selling my quadzilla, and using that money towards a p pump swap. Kinda tired of stupid electrical problems. Which, yes, are mainly my fault. But still.... I want my truck back, and bulletproof.

Yep its a 98.5,the bastard change over year. I'll test everything tomorrow after court. I hope it's a stupid ground wire. But I did check all the fuses, all were good. And the map sensor was fine before the sparky spark.

So not the ecm Has new map sensor btw.

So codes are as follows P1693 P0237 P0237 Map sensor doesn't change when revved, stays at 29.8

I'll get them tonight when I get back into town

So I did whap Mopar1973Man said, still no dice. Truck still runs like poop. But thankfully I found a friend who is gonna help me pull my camper. So now my question is, is it the body pcm or the engine pcm that's fried? Just for reference, I pulled the same code for the turbo charger boost reference circuit low voltage. Not sure which computer controls that?