Ravewolf

So I've read some of your posts, and noticed you don't like using wiretap. Is it bad? More stress on the pump? I would imagine you'd want as much fuel from the ECM as possible before wiretap, correct? Also, since we're on the subject, what is pop pressure?

As the title states, I'm not sure what either one of these is. I've tried Iooking them up on here, and on Google, but no dice. I come from a gasser background, so idk heads or tails with my truck. All new to me. If anyone can explain any of this, I'd appreciate it. Thanks!

I've been using the tunes off here for a bit just to see how my truck reacts, and so far she has less smoke than before. But I'd like to make my own tune, I'm just not sure where to start? As stated my truck has 150hp injectors, and a 63mm(i think) turbo, and cam. Where would you guys start with the tune? I'm really trying to understand the Quadzilla tuning guide, but I'd like a bit of guidance if possible. I don't want to nuke my engine running too lean or wash it out running too rich. I'm pretty sure my injectors are ok, it's just tuning at this point.

* 5th gear first time, other morning 4th gear * 70mph first time, other morning 35 mph * first time was about 2400 rpm, other morning was about 1400rpm (I think) *steady throttle both times *sounded like it came from the transmission area, or front of transmission, not sure. My truck has no muffler so it drones, and is loud. Hard to tell exactly. *flat road, steady throttle, cruising both times, just different rates of speed.

It's been hard to get into gear since I put the new transmission in. Lately whenever I go to put it in reverse or 2nd,it clunks. I really really don't want to pull the transmission again. But what must be done....

I agree, I just wanted a second opinion. Thanks!

Alright, so she's back at it again. Probably my fault this time. Any who, on the way back from North Dakota a few days ago, I was outside Pueblo when I heard what I can only describe as a bearing seizing. A loud squalling like noise that shook the truck, and I felt it through the shifter. It wasn't constant. Just a quick noise, then gone. After everything that's happened, I was on red alert. Turned off my stereo, and kept driving, listening. Found an off ramp, and pulled off to see if anything had froze, was leaking, etc. Nothing. So I jumped back on i25 and headed south. She did it again. Loud quick noise. At this point I prayed nothing seized up completely before I got to Colorado City. Made the noise two more times before I got to the exit. I called some relatives to come get me and parked the truck at the truck stop. I thought it could be the throwout bearing, but while I was waiting I kept hitting the clutch to see if it made noise. Nothing. My thoughts are the carrier bearing I put on (we used a pipe and a hammer since I didn't have access to a press, and there's no driveline shops here, and it popped out of the rubber), or could it be the pilot bearing? It wasn't constant, off and on. Thoughts?

How is this compared to a sump system?

Weird, but ok. As long as it's normal.

Ok, thanks for the input!

So as it says, more weirdo readings on my quadzilla. The temperature was going up to 204°, then would go to -40,then back to 204. I figured my cts was junk, so I replaced it. Didn't pay much attention to it these three hell filled weeks with it. Well, I drove home to NM from North Dakota yesterday, and noticed it was still doing the same thing. Up to 204,then -40. Then back to 204. Is this normal? Or?

So a couple of nights ago I built a manifold for the fps on the quadzilla (I have access to hydraulic fluid fittings in all sizes) and was able to install my fps since I bought the programmer. I noticed the first night the pressure jumped around alot, and would drop to 6 psi on the gauge, then jump back up. I figured it was the water hammer effect, and I installed the needle valve I had bought previously but forgot about until then. She sits steady at 12-13psi idle, but continues to jump up and down while driving. I haven't romped on it (too scary to do with no 4x4 and icy roads) but it made me curious if the sensor was junk? Or? I also changed out both filters on my fass tonight just as a precaution (thought they might have become clogged from gel/sludge/etc) but no change. She runs very, very good now when I roll into her,but I worry about the fp. I go home Saturday night and have to drive about 900 miles (partially on deserted back roads) and I really, really don't want to break down. Thanks for the input in advance!

All mine got chewed up and I found more dents in the main body, so I ordered one from Tom Woods Driveshaft out of Ogden, Utah. $584 with two day shipping, and it's 3/4-1 ton rated. Also warrantied. We use 729 style ujoints for the front shaft right?

So my front driveshaft came apart. Anyone have any idea how long they are right off the top of their head? I can order a new one($258) vs having one built ($650). Mine is too damaged to measure properly.

Timbo apps is on the way! I'm thinking it's more than likely the quadzilla doing it because I haven't played with the tunes much. She drives beautiful otherwise (messed with the power levels today), and my god the power she has now! Even my turbo seems to spool quicker! I'm going to unhook it though tomorrow night and see if the condition still exists. I plan on new injectors as is (I don't trust the previous builder), but I have to make do with the ones I have for now. Again, thanks for all the help, I've learned so much here, even in this one post. I'll report back tomorrow what I find.

I don't think it's normal. It's a hard sputter. Something isn't right. The only codes I have are the boost code from the quadzilla and the apps sensor code. With the way things are going on this truck, my vp is probably about to die next. It's killed everything else but the front and rear axles. My next step is going home on days off, and I'm parking the damn thing until further notice. That's if I don't set fire to it and run it through the home of the guy I bought it from.

Ok. So this is normal then? I mean, she runs good otherwise.

As the title states, she pops and stutters when I free rev her. Has done this since day one of when I bought the truck. It doesn't do it under heavy throttle, or when I'm cruising steady,just when it's idling and I rev it. I figured it was the junk edge tuner, and a new tuner would help. But it still does it, even when warm. It does puff gray smoke when it stutters, but clears up after a few revs. It reminds me of having a car with a carburetor that has a stuck float, you have to rev it because it "loads up". What could it be? MAP Sensor? My cel is on but it's from my apps sensor, and I have a new one ordered. Even before when there were no codes it still stuttered like this. Could I tune this out on quadzilla?

Yes, I read it and didn't understand it. Awesome. I tried, couldn't understand anyway. I'm more of a pictures guy anyway.

I've read the article but still unsure what to do? Does anyone have a clearer explanation?

That's the funniest thing I've read all day ???

Happy new year to all of you, drink much, be merry, and don't drink and drive. I'm currently on my way home, but battling old man winter and hit frozen scrotum of cold misery in Wyoming (just went through Newcastle) in a friend's 2007 Chevy Trailblazer with sketchy tires and a trailer. Pray to whatever Gods you follow I make it, and can get a damn tcase for my clapped out pile. Vaya con Dios amigos!

So a set of stock hydraulics from rockauto.com would work fine then?

So I have to order new hydraulics (or the slave at least because the hose popped out of mine), and I was curious what the difference between stock and valair is besides the threaded clutch rod? I have a south bend dual disc clutch btw.

I wasn't referring to a big truck style fuel cooler. More like a transmission fluid cooler with a fan on it. I figure throw it on the return side and hopefully cool the fuel off. I also thought about wrapping the vp in header wrap if it would help with heat soak. Trying to think of everything I can do to keep that pump cool. I'm going to run 2 cycle oil too, and try to keep it full. I have full time employment now, so I can afford to start upgrading the fuel system more. I already bought a mechanical fuel pressure gauge, next move is to do the draw straw mod and move the return to the fuel neck like some of you have done. Also, update on my tcase. The front bearing fried, and the input shaft wobbles in it, so most likely the planetary is done. At least my buddy who pulled it out thinks. Thank God for good friends. Just finished reading the entire high fuel temps thread. So I guess all my ideas were tested out already. Good, means less stuff to buy lol. Also, this got merged with this post. But thanks again my fellow oil burners.