Ravewolf

I work in the oilfield, and was helping one of the mechanics fix one of our coil tubing wet kits, namely the hydraulics cooler and fan. It got me thinking about transmission coolers, which led me to think about using one for a fuel cooler, fan and all. Would it be a waste? I also read about FedEx(I think) had problems with their fleet trucks breaking down because of their vp pumps, so they used heat sinks and apparently the problems dropped dramatically. Anyone hear about this? Just thinking too much again about how I can prolong the life of my pump, different ideas, etc.

Thank you for the info. I guess I'll stick that turbo on another project I have in the future,and go with something else. Like I said I'm just paranoid right now as I had no idea what I was buying into when I bought the truck. I should have been more patient and done more research. Oh well, it is what it is. As for the tuning, do I need new injectors on top of a new programmer? I am going to get a quadzilla instead of a p-pump swap I think. I like the idea of on the fly tuning vs having to mess with fuel plates and such. See, these are things I wonder about. I hope I'm not spamming up the forum with my questions. If so feel free to delete.

I like my truck better.

Ok, well, as some of you know, my trucks tcase pooped the bed on the way to my new job. It's home now, safe at my friends shop. I'm 900 miles away though, so I can't do anything but think about what I need to fix, what I should do, etc. Now obviously the tcase is priority. Once that's fixed, she's good to go. But given that the last two times this truck has gone on a long trip and left me stranded, I'm leery about some things. The truck has 265000 on it (I think). I think the vp is the original. Not sure if the previous owner had it rebuilt, or replaced, or anything. He said he had the transmission rebuilt, but that was an obvious lie. So I choose to err on the side of caution and believe it's the stock one. I have a FASS titanium fuel pump, and it has a huge line going from the pump to the vp,and has push loc fittings. So I know it's getting fuel. How long does a vp usually last? I also have bigger injectors (they're supposed to be 150s, they haze at idle when it's cold, and dump fuel like crazy, but I plan on changing them as well), and every now and then it idles funny (yes I know I need to monitor fuel pressure, that's coming soon) but no drive ability problems. When I had her on the road last, she ran real good,so I'm probably being paranoid. Why? Because when I drive to work I have to drive some desolate and empty roads in cold snowy back country, and I don't trust the truck enough to chance driving if there's a good chance it'll leave me stranded. Most of those places have no cell service, so I couldn't call for help if I needed, and it gets cold. Really cold. It's literally a life and death situation at that point. I'm seriously considering doing a p-pump swap to get rid of that possibility, but damn it's expensive.If the vp pump can make power and last, it's the cheaper alternative. Lastly, my turbo is an aftermarket turbonetics unit. I think the specs are 65/63/.84, and it has no wastegate. Is this too big for a single? It doesn't spool until 2000, but it doesn't built steam until 2500-2800(i think), then it flies until the computer cuts fuel. It smokes like a freight train though. Like, alot of smoke. ALOT. It's fun, but laggy. I'm not sure if that's because of the fuel, programmer, or something else.I have an hx35, so I could compound it if need be. I hope this isn't too much to digest all at once. But after two strikes, she's on my crap list. If something else happens again, she gets sold to the highest bidder. Then I'm buying something else.

This is exactly what I have I think. Cool beans.

I've been looking, but I'm also broke at this point, and I don't want to chance another tcase popping on me. I figure rebuild mine and have no worries.

I couldn't tell you, the truck is 120 miles away from me at my friends shop. I had just changed a leaky rear seal, and refilled it with ATF type f. But who knows the condition of the thing from the previous owner. Or how much abuse it took. The truck is getting parked until I address all the issues. She gets new injectors, a compound kit, new injection pump, a quadzilla, new clutch hydraulics, and I guell I'll rebuilt the tcase. It should take about a year or so to get it all done. But I'm tired of worrying about it every time I take it on the highway. This is the second time she let me down. No more.

The axles have 4.10s,i was just hoping I could regrar it cheaper that way, but I suppose since I want to rebuild both axles I'll regear them to 3.55. I'm positive it's not the transmission. I shifted through all the gears and listened, and when I shifted the tcase to 4lo, it bound up and stuck.

As title states, my tcase went crunch on the way to North Dakota for my new job. I'm assuming the way it locked up the innards are toast. I had to disconnect both drive shafts to move it. As of now, the truck is going to be put into hibernation until I figure out what's going to happen next. That depends on whether or not I can get a decent case for cheap enough. I've also considered adapting it to run an np205, and hopefully not have to worry again. But I really don't want to have to get new yokes and drivelines. What do you all suggest? Who could rebuild it for a reasonable amount? Who sells gears and stuff besides all state? The truck has 4.11s in, and at 75 it runs 2500rpm. I'd like it lower, so does anyone have a higher gearset perhaps for the tcase? Many thanks my friends.

Has to be aftermarket one. Plugs into a harness.

OK, so it's nothing major then with the fuel pump, Good to know. I changed the fuel filters night before last. As for my apps, not sure. It looks new, and it didn't have a voltage setting sticker on it. I planned on buying the timbo one when I get money. Gentlemen, I'm about to head off to North Dakota. Pray to the diesel gods for me. But thank you for the help again!

I have an egt gauge and boost gauge on my edge module. Also has a fuel pressure gauge but doesn't have the sensor. The lope more often than not, but I changed the fuel and water filters last night, and she seems to be doing a bit better. I also threw some stanadyne in the tank. My only other worry is the fuel pump will audibly prime the system now. When I first got the truck it would prime up loud. Then for some reason it went away one day. Now that I changed filters last night, it's back to being loud again. I wonder if the old filters were junk and it wasn't letting much fuel through? It feels like it did when I first got her, which was really nice. Probably helped adjusting the valves too. I did play with my apps sensor too, now it's throwing a p0122 code. But I found it wasn't opening up to 3.8 all the way so I messed with the rear back stop. For the life of me it wouldn't read accurately on two voltmeter gauges. I'll play with it more tomorrow and see if I can get the code to go away. Thanks for the help guys.

I'm going to install one as soon as I get my first check from my new job. Just hoping she makes it long enough. It's probably good, but after everything I read, and how many miles it has, I worry.

I don't have one but I have access to a fuel pressure tester which I'll use tonight

Ok, that's good to know. But now I worry more because my truck lopes now and then. Hoping it's not the vp but I haven't tested it yet so we'll see.

Ok, so as my title states, my truck never came with a lift pump. I only have a FASS titanium fuel pump, and huge lines running straight to the vp44. Would it help anything by putting in a stock lift pump later? Or can I just keep my current setup? Lately it's been loping kind of funny now and then. I'm terrified my vp is getting ready to **** the bed. I'm heading to Williston ND tomorrow to start work Monday, but that's easily a 16hr drive for me, if not longer. After Gillette WY there's alot of empty roads and no service.... Im going to change the fuel filter and water separator just to be safe before I go. The truck has made it from Casper Wyoming to Dickinson Nd, back pulling a trailer, and made it to NM, and back ok. I just don't want to push my luck though....

I was also thinking along that train of thought too. Either way I'll keep double clutching until further notice.

As the above title says, thank you all so much for your help with the problems I've had so far. No bs answers, and great advice here, along with lots of how to articles. So much friendlier here than other cummins sites too. I look forward to getting my money pit together now lol.

I tried that trick, it seems to work somewhat at first. But still sometimes it's kinda hard, and I have to keep playing with the clutch to get it to go in. I've also found out if I move the stick in neutral back and forth a few times she drops right in. Just shits and giggles I doubled clutched all day yesterday, and she shifted beautifully. So I'm thinking she still needs to break in a bit still. You'll all come to see I tend to panic over little things. Like my truck now decided she wants to lope a few times while idling, and sputtering while free revving. Fml. No tests yet because no time, working on other people's cars at the moment.

Yes, I sent both disks off to SB to get re hubbed for the bigger input shaft, and installed the new pilot bearing that came with it. Clutch engages a little under halfway up, maybe lower. It was rebuilt by SuoerStick Transmissions, and pretty much a total rebuild as my tranny burned up from lack of oil (my fault for not checking), and new synchros, new updated mainshaft, new counter shaft, new and bigger input shaft, and 5th gear fix, along with a new top cover (mine was cracked apparently.

The clutch and hydraulics came with the truck I meant to say. I didn't buy them. Will a single disc hold up to power? What is the limit for them? I plan on building the truck more in the near future.

New sealed pilot bearing. I got as close as I could to the bellhousing, then started all 4 bolts, then slowly sucked it in. The clutch and hydraulics came with the clutch. I won't have time or money to replace the pilot bearing right away, so how long will it ride? I am going to be traveling to North Dakota soon for work, and I can have a shop replace it for me while I'm there. Unless there's a guarantee of failure before then.... Also, I installed the bellhousing first, then the transmission. Was this the correct order? Not much room under there and it was a pita the first time around. Not keen on doing it again honestly.

Like the title says, my transmission is hard to shift. Real notchy, and sometimes a bastard to put into gear or reverse. It's rebuilt, and has maybe 400 miles on it. Running Lucas 50wt oil as recommended. But it just doesn't feel right. In another post I stated I had the clutch pedal adjusted way our to get rid of the slop of no bushing. The clutch seems to release ok, it doesn't crawl when in gear. But I worry it's something else. I will say when I put the transmission back in I fought to put it in the last tiny bit in the pilot bearing. Had to torque it down, but I did it as slowly and gently as I could,and the gap was less than half an inch when I started. Not sure if it was hung up on air or just such a tight fit. Also has a Sb dd clutch, and had the big input shaft put in. Stock shifter. No noise from the clutches, and no noise from the transmission. But I can kinda feel the teeth in third sometimes, is this normal? Anywho, tell me I'm paranoid and it's all ok. I'm terrified to blow up this transmission, or hurt this truck in any way. I waited seven and a half years to get another cummins, don't want to ruin this one.

So basically I gotta experiment for everyone. Sweet. I like exploring ideas!

Screw that. No one's stuffed superduty seats in a 2nd gen? Or newer seats?