Ravewolf

Checked three times. Was told the injectors were a few months old when I bought it. From the looks of things, the guy was right. The springs looked pretty solid in the injectors. Not much wear. Pintle needles were tight too.

Well, the truck is back together, and I bled lines 1,3,and 4,getting good fuel. But it won't starts. The hell? I even tried using carb cleaner just to see if it would sputter, nothing. Yes, I disconnected the grid heater first before that. What gives? I reused the orings that were on the injector bodies because they were still brand new. They all clicked into place (by hand) tightly. I changed all the orings on the crossover tubes as well, and put them in with the injector hold downs off, that way I could make sure they were in the injector holes. Even took everything back apart, torqued the line nuts, then put the injector hold downs on, and torqued them to spec. Thought I might have fried my box again, but no dice with it disconnected. Everything appears to be hooked up correctly. Just keep cranking? Or?

I figured it out after going through the rest of the injectors, but I didn't torque the lines first. I'll loosen everything tomorrow and retorque everything correctly. Thanks for the help El Pollo lol

All the old washers came out, I made extra sure. Is the injector hold down supposed to be flush when tight? Or is there a small gap? I tried to torque one down and the bolt snapped. I pulled the injector and tube, both were fine. This is my first time doing this and YouTube is a great help, but nothing beats hands on experience

So I've been doing research lately, and had a sneaking suspicion that I had a leak somewhere after my injection pump. After looking hard, sure enough #5 fuel line was slightly wet. I said screw it and ordered an injection seal kit from thoroughbred (I think), and while I was at it I broke all the injectors down, soaked them in naptha, cleaned them more with b12 chemtool, then reassembled according to spec. With the new washers on, I've popped all them in by hand, set the crossover tubes in by hand, and now I'm about to torque the injector hold down clamps. The injectors are sitting higher than normal, is that normal? I figure the new copper washers haven't been seated yet, so they're up a bit higher, but is it OK to crank down those tiny 8mm bolts to seat them?

Wrong year, but thanks bud. Mine is still vacuum operated, and has the cable for the temp control

This is the best solution I can think of at the moment. I guess it will have to work for now until I can get the money gathered for the new doors. A country boy makes do!

Since I was waiting for my tuner to come back, I decided to tackle another issue that's bugged me: the hvac system. I about froze my toes off on the way back from North Dakota a few weeks ago, as I had no floor heat or defrost. Only worked on max a/c. I decided to pull the box and open it up. I wasn't paying attention when I split the case, and the top half came off suddenly, causing the bottom to fall and break the little door with the spring flap on it. I've tried unsuccessfully to epoxy and plastic weld it back together, but it always snaps. I've seen replacements online, but no way in hell am I paying $325 for a set of aluminum doors. So has anyone come across a replacement? Or does anyone have a parts truck and maybe sell one? Thanks.

Post up pics of the various little custom touches you've made to your truck. Interior stuff, exterior, etc. Looking for ideas on mine.

I guess I'll play

I did, box is fried, but it's covered. Sent mine to them today, hoping for a quick turnaround.

With the quad connected, lights are on in the dash with key off. Kinda like when the turbo timer is on. Disconnected, key off, no lights.

With quad connected. Without truck starts and runs

Thanks!

Instructions on this website? I'm game to try it

Ok. I know I hooked everything up again and I can't find the Bluetooth signal from the box. But I'll try that right quick UPDATE Just tried as mopar1973man suggested, no dice. Going to unhook the box completely and roll like that until I can figure out what happened. I'm pretty sure I either erased, or corrupted the program inside the box. Also, with key off, brake, airbag, and CEL lights stay on in dash.

Hopefully he gets on soon and it's simple. I don't want to pay for another box.... I did open mine just to make sure nothing burned up, and it seems fine. But I'm not an electronics engineer,so I truly can't say.

Well, truck starts right up without the box hooked up. Hook up box, no start, but everything turns on like key is on when it isn't. I think my box pooped the bed. Is there any way to reset it? Or reflash it?

Motor spins plenty fast. It just won't light. Like the vp44 is getting the signal to inject. It sounds like when you have air in the lines and have to bleed them. That kind of starting sound.

Ok, so my truck has an electrical draw (among the myriad of other things) so I went to start it yesterday, and the batteries were dead. I hooked up a charger to the passenger side and let the charger trickle charge all night. Still wouldn't start today. I had a friend bring over a big wheeled battery charger, and hooked it up, but remembered I needed to disconnect the adrenaline adr box first. I did, got the truck to start, let it idle for about 20 minutes to charge the batteries, then shut it down and hooked up the adr box. Immediately, with the key off and in my hand, I heard the cluster ding, and a few seconds later my fuel pump primed. Weird, but ok. I tried to start the truck, but nothing. I'm getting fuel, but the truck acts like it's not pushing the fuel. I disconnected the negative cables on the batteries, and did a 30 minute hard reset. I rehooked the adr box back up, then the negatives, and as soon as the truck got power the pump primed again like the key was on. But the ignition is off, key in my pocket. I tried again, no. Dice. Did I fry the box?

What am I missing?

Good point. Eh,maybe in the future when i hit the lottery Ill build something like this lol. As for chimkins,man,they dont hold up to a .357 well lol.

I need to snoop around more. My bad....

So I have a horrible sinus infection which lead to inner ear infections on BOTH ears, and has generally been a shitty experience. My right ear drum popped from pressure, my left one is trying, and everything is muffled. I can't work right now, so I'm home, stuck inside, waiting for the antibiotics to work. In the meantime I've slept too much and now have become a night owl. Thus I think too much lol. Anyway, rambling aside, here's my idea/question. I like my truck, but it's not exactly everything I want. I've also been jonesing for a nice longbed square body Chevy. But I only have room for one truck in my life right now. Thus, the idea. I'm wondering how hard it would be to mount a sc/lb Chevy body on my dodge frame. I keep all the bulletproof and nice suspension (my truck came with a Carli 3" lift), plus my engine, trans, tcase, and a wicked rear end. I gain easy body part availability, and can build a square body from a magazine pretty much. My only hangup is how to get the 24v to work with the Chevy body. Gauges are no problem. I can run my fuel pump off a switch, and my grid heaters as well. But getting the ECM to work right is my question. Will it have to be reprogrammed to run stand alone? Now, you're probably asking "Rave, why go through all that when you could swap a 12v in it and be done"? Well, because I don't want to lose my programmer for one(I flipping love my quadzilla), everyone else has already done it, and mainly because I have everything other than a clean body. Fabrication doesn't scare me,but I've been bit by Chrysler and their pita electronics a few times, and they taint everything they touch. But if this is an absolute **** idea, tell me. If not, well, I'll look for a clean Chevy body lol.

So in my quest to further understand the monster that is quadzilla adrenaline, I found this video online. It explains alot, so if anyone has any questions about the video, check this out too. The original quadzilla tuning video is pretty good as well. I'll provide links to both. Original Quadzilla tuning video: I'm sure the gurus on here are masters with this programmer already, but for those who aren't, or those who are wondering whether they should, here you go.