Ravewolf

Ok. Doing this purely for research. No way I'm driving it.

Not planning on driving with it. More like just throw it on for "show" then load my economy tune to actually drive. Also just curious if it could actually be done..

This is probably a completely truck rice thing to do, but how would you make a lope tune with Quadzilla? Is it possible?

I'll get the numbers off the turbo again and rerun them, but I know it's kinda big. It doesn't have a wastegate either.

I don't think I have a boost fooler in, unless it came with the Quadzilla. I have a turbonetics 63/65 with a 1.85 ex housing if I remember right. It's too big I think.

So I've been testing Lucille out and seeing what's what, and I noticed according to qz my boost maxes out at 22psi. This is with stock sized injectors. I know the turbo is probably too big for my engine, but I was curious what rpm a proper turbo should start spooling on a 24v? Mine starts to come on at about 2200rpm,and I reach fuel cut off before it spools more. Aside from replacing the turbo completely, is there a way around this at all? I do plan on reinstalling my 150hp injectors, and I want about 700hp in the end. If I can get away with keeping my current turbo that would be cheaper. But I'm open to suggestions. Kinda want to stay single turbo for ease of cost.

So i decided I wanted to play a bit today, and tried to change my tune from the economy to the fun tune (just using downloaded tunes from here until I can afford to get it tuned). No matter what I do, it's stuck on the economy tune. It acts like it's loading the tune I want, but when I check the tune page, it's still on economy. Do I need to reset the program, or the box?

So mine is kinda the same way, but I have a new slave/master set in my truck. I did accidentally pop the slave out like an idiot, but I cleaned it with a blue towel and put it back together, and got it bled (used a vacuum bleeder up top, worked like a charm). My truck doesn't creep forward in gear, but I have to fight to get it into reverse, 2nd,or 3rd unless I float the gears. I suspect the pilot bearing thought because when I put my new transmission in, it wouldn't go all the way in. About a ¼ was sticking out, but I pulled it in with the bolts. Idk if that was a good idea, but it seemed ok. New pilot bearing btw. I have a new one from torque king (the big one) are they worth the hassle to pull the trans and machine the flywheel?

My crossover tubes didn't have filters in them, and looked pretty new. I assume they were changed when the injectors were changed. I reused them but put new orings on. Seems to be working fine for now. Once I get the 150s rebuilt I'll order a new set of tubes

Just wanted to give you all a quick update on my truck. Got the new injectors from WiscoRedkneck, and they worked like a charm. Truck runs alot better also. Down on power obviously because of stock injectors, but it drives much, much smoother. Also starting is a dream, I barely hit the key and it lights off. Hasn't sputtered much either, just small amounts. I'm starting to think the old 150s were going out in it and it wasn't running like it should have. Still getting them rebuilt in the future, but for now I'm rolling stockish. Can't wait until my hx35 comes in finally.

Tha gauge situation could be taken care of by manual gauges, right? Also, doesn't quadzilla plug into the canbus only? In theory all it needs is 12 volts to run and it could work on a standalone setup, right? I'm not swapping anything right now, I am just doing research.

Well, mine still works fine(still not running, usps screwed WiscoRedkneck on my injectors) I was just curious because my friend and I were talking about swaps and such, and how someone would run a pump in that situation. He has a 79 ford truck and I joked about stealing it and swapping my 24v into it, then it just went downhill from there. Also, the 24v can be ran without the dodge pcm, I found a website that shows how to do stand alone wiring in case anyone had any ideas. Just food for thought for ya'll.

Just curious, but what would happen if one were to bypass the ECM and install a switch to turn on the fuel pump? Mine works fine, but I was always curious about it.

Crossover tubes, per dynamite diesel instructions, then injectors. I also held my finger on the tubes and spun the injectors a bit to make sure they were seated. I will once I get a stock set. Also I'm going to try and bleed all six injectors while it's running and see if that helps. I also noticed my fp gauge was bouncing while the truck was running. I think I might have to bleed the injection pump more. All in all it just acts like there's still a ton of air in it. No, I did awhile back, but they needed to be adjusted at that point anyway. Only thing I did this time under the valve cover was remove the injectors.

Hell yea man, I'll take em! You've got mail! This is why I love this website! Brotherhood of the Cummins!

I don't, I wish I did know someone. It seems like theres a ton of air in it still. It takes forever to start, and just pours white smoke when I rev it. I cracked lines 1,3,4,and 5,and they were spraying ok. I didn't get 2 because the air horn and grid heater were in the way, and six was blocked by the lift bracket. Can I take it off and just put the bolts back in? And can I run the truck without the grid heater and air horn on? I could get all the injectors then.

Iive in New Mexico but I'm 6 miles from the Colorado border. Stuff ain't legal here yet. Pretty soon though lol.

True. As an update on the truck, it's running again, but sounds like a couple of cylinders are dead. Tried running it at 1500 rpm, but there was so much white smoke I had to stop. Thought the law was gonna show up. Idk guys. I'm lost right now as to what to do except park it and see if I can find somebody with more experience than me. If any Colorado guys want to come help me it'd be appreciated.

Hrm. Ok, I'll quit worrying about it then. Also, I found the problem! It helps when all the copper sealing rings are the same thickness. Can't believe I didn't catch it. This goes to show you can never be too careful.

They aren't used, they came with the truck I remember that. What I meant was it seemed like it was "loading up" and choking on excess fuel. But I understand what you mean.

I made sure nothing like that came out with the first injector. I was extremely careful about it. I don't think it's the injectors. I also pulled the torque number from online, several sources said 55 ft lbs. But upon further research, ddp says 30. So back apart it comes. Where I live we're lucky to have internet. Morons abound here. I seriously doubt that I messed up the pop pressure because everything was meticulously bagged and tagged besides the crossover tubes. Speaking of which, I took them out today (was sick for three days then it decided to snow for two days), and noticed all of them were wet past the orings. I did find a kit with green orings, and found a set that was just like the ones I removed. The crossover tubes clicked in nicely, so I think that was a big part of the problem. Also, the intake plenum gasket was completely toast, it's no wonder I never could build boost, half of it was going to the atmosphere! I didn't get it started today, as I ran out of daylight. But Dieselfuture pointed out my torque values were wrong on the nozzles, and they're way too tight. I'm going to yank them tomorrow and tear them down again. Hopefully I didnt screw anything up.... Me and my damn bright ideas.

I didn't, I just took them apart one by one, cleaned them, then reassembled them one by one. I kept everything together, and in separate compartments. I took care to label everything, and organized the parts by injector. Kept track of how everything came apart, and when I put them back together, I torqued the caps to DDP specs (55lbs). I guess tomorrow I'll pull it back apart again, and recheck everything. I have to anyway since I'm replacing the plenum gasket. Might be why my truck never built that much boost.

Update: it lives! But....i notices by the number 4 injector, the diesel that pooled around the nut is bubbling. Looks like it's coming from the intake cover. Will this cause it to run like crap? It's still stuttering when I rev it. Seems to rev quicker though. Also, I forgot to mention these were the injectors that came with the truck, not new ones. So not putting the crossover tubes back in the same holes is ok still? Or? UPDATE 2. Truck runs like crap, seems to miss at idle,pops/misses during free rev, belches a ton of gray/white smoke when revved, and when I let off, shudders and coughs, and comes back through the turbo. Also, when I shut it off, refuses to start again. Almost like it lost prime? Wtf did I do?? She ran decent before, much better than this....

How about four? I cracked 1,3,4,&5. 1 was spraying pretty good. The rest were just kinda dribbling out. I really hope I didn't mess anything up. I forgot to mention I didn't label the crossover tubes, then found out after the fact I was supposed to. Could that be the problem?

Negative. Fuel to all the lines it seems, still won't fire. It's late here, sun's down, and I don't have a garage to work on it. Guess I'll try it Tuesday when I'm free again.