LorenS

As long as your pressure is reasonable it can't hurt anything and I'd certainly try it. As goopy as the stuff was around my screen (imagine wet coffee grounds, but much finer), it may not "clear it" like make it disperse all throughout the tank, but it should move a little. Whatever pump you put on that isn't a stock unit really "must" be on a relay to protect your ECM. And stock units "should" be on a relay. They tend to draw quite a few amps. This screenshot of Airdog's listing shows all the things needed to mount this unit on the frame, but I don't believe most of it is included. I'd call and ask. Even if you don't install it in the frame right now, it'd be nice to have on hand the materials to do so, and would give you the relay wiring.

Any further updates on Dripley?

My DDRP is on the frame behind the transfer case, with a spin-on screen ahead of it (see my signature), draw straw and 3/8" fuel lines (1/2" wasn't popular when I did the change over). I'm very happy with my fuel pressure at the VP, but I don't pull heavy so can't speak to that. Fed with appropriate relay triggered by the stock wires.

$410?!?!? Holy smokes.

I always assumed that was the point of the "boost fooling" feature of many tuners, including the Adrenaline.

I know for certain the ones I have fit that description! I was incredibly slow today at work, so had some time throughout the day to investigate these connectors. The closest I came was of course some Alibaba B.S. with no description of what brand they were ripping off so I could buy legitimate. It there weren't so many wires I'd replace with better plugs, but at this point I think I'll just hardwire the SOBs - crimp connectors and solder, with heat shrink tubing. Treat it like I'm on the side of the road and be done with it. Not sure why I'd ever need the plugs anyway, unless it was to replace yet another portion of the harness - and I'll do the same then!

In his younger days, my dad spent a lot of time around local race engine builders. One of them melted down an Edelbrock carb and sent the aluminum ingot with iron pieces sticking out back to them with an expletive-riddled note it worked as good now as it did before, with ideas of where they could shove it. He of course got no money back, but Holley and even Quadrajet got a little more business.

The connector with the white latch mechanism wasn't too bad. The the other one is nearly impossible. Not sure if it's due to the plastic getting stiff with age and heat, or what. There is a plastic tab to move, but some just don't want to budge. I've tried pushing the terminal in to make sure it's fully seated and the tab wasn't already jambed, but that only worked on one. I have several more to go. They are similar looking to a metri-pack 280 series 2, but I question whether they really are. Hopefully the good NAPA man can help me, but not sure he works Sundays.

Had some success yesterday disassembling the connectors and getting a few terminals out. It helped to be able to look at the harness my dad had, though of course my luck dictated that it only had the "wrong" side of the plugs. For the life of me I still can't figure out HOW the terminals are supposed to come out, for the connector with the brown piece. Taking the brown piece out was very easy after seeing it in good light, but knowing how to remove the metal terminal from the plastic part (at least after 21 years) has eluded me, even after removing several - it just "happened" while poking and prodding with the removal tools. It seems obvious after disassembly and studying it, until you try to do it on the next one.

I went to England in 1999 for a university competition, and we were all blown away by the cost of fuel considering it was per liter! Made us understand why we saw so many Minis. I drank way too much Blackthorn while there. Well, we drank too much in general, but I suppose that was expected since so many of us could finally buy booze legally! After stumbling around Birmingham by myself one afternoon on a personal pub crawl, I finally made it back to the dorms in which we were staying. Great times!

It just rose to $3.39/gal here this week, but I went by Sam's Club today and it was only $2.89. Makes me wonder what they leave out to be 50 cents/gallon cheaper. Maybe they just haven't received the higher price tanker truck yet, or it isn't blended (colder weather finally blew in, lows in single digits).

As I understand it, and as I've witnessed, the truck won't give you overdrive until the transmission temp reaches 100F. Depending on climate, I would not replace the HEX with a cooling-only aftermarket unit if I had any other reasonable choice.

Bought the Passat first, but essentially yes. They have their own quirks, but much cheaper to deal with! I kind of wish I'd never sold my 1995 Suburban. Wasn't great on fuel as the miles racked up, but total cost per mile was very reasonable. If it was 3/4 ton I wouldn't have sold it.

I sold it. I drove a 2015 Ram 2500 for a while so was familiar with DEF, regens, and the like. I never once got the "go drive on the highway for 20 miles" message to clear the DPF, but that Ecodiesel was constantly needing to actively regen, and never failed it was after I'd just driven for 2 hours on the highway - it couldn't have regen'd a little early?!? Coupled with the constant stream of catastrophic engine failures I was seeing on an Ecodiesel Facebook page I followed, I just wasn't interested in it anymore. $10k engine if they don't cover it under warranty, and it can take a few months to get the new engine. Then even normal maintenance items were going to be stupid expensive. I mean it's like $800 to change the water pump, the thermostat is a couple hundred dollars, and on and on. Screw that. I wound up nearly breaking even on it when I sold it to a dealer. I think if you ONLY use the truck to haul a trailer, then it seems they do really good - like several hundred thousand miles. But if you drive empty, even on long hauls, it's a crapshoot if you make it to 100k, with way too many failing before 30k miles. And it wasn't people putting in the wrong oil, or otherwise being dumb. It'd be people that really know how to maintain and drive vehicles.

They are. They're also apparently Made in USA, if that helps. I also can't remember ever reading about someone having problems with them, though surely someone has.

The cheapest I found the cable was about $38 plus shipping. Considering I only have two gauges, it so far has not been worth it to me.

The most complicated part of the install is getting power, and if you are going to utilize the lighting in your manual gauges, then you'll be doing the same thing anyway. I have the same gauges as mentioned above, and have never bothered with purchasing a cable to "program" the gauges. Just not worth it to me. So, don't think that that is a complicated task that must be done, it's just a very nice feature if you ever decide to utilize it. I came close a couple times to buying the cable just to make the gauges dim at the same rate as the truck's display, it's just a little off.

My only experience is with the ISSPRO gauges, and found them to be pretty darn easy to wire up.

Not my 2005 Passat! The engine's not even transverse, and it's FWD. Handy for some things, not handy for other things. However, if you want to drop the oil pan you have a real project on your hands - the subframe/cradle/whatever does have to come out. Fantastic steering and seats, 38 MPG, and my 5-year old being able to get himself in the car are major reasons (besides squirrels) I no longer drive the Ram every day. Well, that and I had hoped to get the truck in the body shop by now.

I finally watched the video and see that the oil pressure 'gauge' doesn't move when the engine does its thing. So, maybe that splice isn't a problem. Or it could be that only the ECT wire is the only one not making consistently good connection. Considering the shoddy work we've seen related to such splices (W-T's photos prove it), I'd start there as it costs about zero pennies to check, and not many minutes to take apart, inspect, and reapply electrical tape, etc.

Welcome back. Did you get a chance to check S165? According to the wire map Mike posted, it's a splice that serves many sensors, including the ECT, IAT, and Cam sensors. Do you have an OBD Link LX, MX, etc., to check live data? Would be interesting to know if the IAT and ECT sensors wig out at the same time.

I ordered a supposedly-genuine Delphi kit that includes the crimpers and assortment of seals, pins, bodies, etc. And the removal tool. If this setup leaves me stranded maybe "next time" I'll get the Deutsch connector set - or just hardwire it all. In 21 years and 345k miles this is probably the first time those wire looms have been pulled out of their resting place on the firewall. They may have needed the connectors in Saltillo, MX to build the truck, but haven't been used since.

The thing is, my truck was hardly in "storage", I had driven it about 9 days before discovering this mess, and was parked in a prime parking spot in my nice, concrete driveway! Only reason it went 9 days without being driven is because I pretty much slept for a week, sick with the flu or something that wasn't the Wuhans. Meaning I wasn't going to go out and spray anything under the hood, either. No shortage of acorns or walnuts this year, so not sure why the bastard needed a chew toy at bedtime.

Thanks, @wil440. I just pulled the trigger a bit ago on a weather-pack set, supposedly genuine Delphi (for the cost I sure hope it is...) Perhaps I should cancel it and buy this even more expensive set- but I may have to do something different for the 12-gauge wires: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00724M7SK/ref=sspa_dk_detail_4?psc=1p13NParams&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzUEZJN0ZHRzZIUkZZJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwOTM4ODg1MlFPUjY2VU9FNDJVNiZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMzQxOTk0Mjk3WjVFUThGNU0wMCZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2RldGFpbDImYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl