LorenS

Any of you ladies and gentlemen on Parler? No surprise, I'm @LorenS. Fairly new there, no real idea how to do anything on that platform!

I think you should shop around for parts, some of those prices are more than double what you'd pay if you can wait a few days. Like thermostat and blower resistor. Rock Auto for a Stant Super-stat is $9, Standard Motor Products blower resistor is $22. Plus shipping of course, which is very reasonable with them. Of course sometimes you need it that day, which I understand, too.

Agreed.

I have neither 3 CYL high idle nor an exhaust brake, and if I let my truck rattle itself to life for 10 minutes outside a hotel I'd likely be missing some teeth. And if I did that at home in Kansas City my truck might drive off with someone else in it (I don't have remote start), and my neighbors would stop being nice to me. Very few people want to listen to one of these rattle traps first thing in the morning. Before 7AM the longest I try to idle my truck is about 30 seconds, then proceed at very slow rate if not plugged in and it's cold out. 14.4 cents is worth it to me. Knowing for a fact that most engine wear is at cold startup, it seems like the least I can do for my truck's well being - and my comfort!

That's what I needed to know, thanks! One would think this would be spelled out somewhere. I thought the Warm Up mode was the switchover point to allow a tune to start. By that, I mean that essentially the truck would be on Level 0 until that temp was reached, then whatever tune would kick in. That way a guy wouldn't be trying to get 500 HP with a cold engine, etc. Now I know, thanks!

I figured it would stay on high idle indefinitely.

Well maybe that's my problem, that I don't have warmup mode turned on! Like you said, the "user's manual" is lacking. Since I'm the perfect test dummy for this (I have had SO many basic questions about it) I really need to write up an article on the small, but very important aspects of operation!

A maintainer would be fine, but I'm not sure about hooking up a big charger and setting it to a 200 Amp "jump start" mode. Just mentioning there shouldn't have been some massive electrical surge or voltage spike to knock it out. I don't have the warmup mode turned on because I assume - perhaps incorrectly - that it's there to make sure a guy doesn't make too much power on a cold engine. My truck has stock injectors, stock turbo, and a 41 year old driving it. So, I'm not too worried

Truck was in my driveway on level 2 while I was scraping ice. I have warmup mode turned off. I'll try to remember to idle for over 60 seconds tomorrow morning and start data logging.

Before I call Quadzilla for support, I thought I'd ask for suggestions here. I recently noticed that my Quadzilla high idle won't start anymore. I have checked several times that it is on and the elapsed time is set right now to 60 seconds. I have tried other tunes and it doesn't work with any of them. I have deleted and reloaded tunes, that didn't help. I checked that my Vehicle Selection is correct, V2 Dodge 98-2002 version 2.7, NOT the 4k. This summer a rodent chewed a little hole in my iQuad box. I have since used a VERY small piece of that rubberized/foil backed tape to seal the hole. I have not had to jumpstart the truck. The only time a battery charger was on it was a little 40A model, but of course was connected to the driver's side battery. Everything else seems to work right. Any ideas? Should I again backup my tunes and do the "Default Profile" and "reset the device to the defaults"?

I don't believe changing it should be necessary. If you set that Low Load Timing just a couple of percent above your normal, flat ground cruising Engine Load at say 65-70 MPH, then you know the engine isn't straining and can handle a little 'stress' of advanced timing. If you're going 80, or 65 up a grade, or towing a trailer, then the engine load will be higher and the Quad will not allow the higher timing, thus saving your engine/head/etc. With your bigger injectors, you likely won't have a cruising engine load as high as mine. It is recommended to have different tunes for different things, like Towing versus Sportscar or Economy; towing you will likely have long duration of heavy load, and also will want to get moving even at the cost of a little fuel economy. I'm no expert at any of this, either, so if I said something wrong hopefully one of the more knowledgeable guys will chime in.

I've started my truck plenty of times in Minnesota winter without plugging in (cheap hotel) and it certainly had no troubles starting, it just ran a little rough at first. That said, once it's below 35 and I'm at home it gets plugged in at night, with the timer set for two hours of heat. That's 1.2 kW-hrs, or 14.4 cents. Sure is nice to jump in the cab and have defrost work really quicky, and not have my batteries deal with grid heaters.

Yes. That confused me in the past, too! Other than the Adrenaline, my truck is stock (see my signature for details) with a dinky HY35 turbo. Since the factory timing is over 13 degrees at 1500 RPM and I don't need help getting the turbo spooled, I started my table around 13.5 or 14 degrees timing. I also set my "Light Throttle Limit" to 40% so I can stay in the higher timing (19.5-20 degrees) while cruising on flat ground at 70-72 MPH. My mileage is MUCH better since I've done that. EGTs are lower, required throttle input is lower. And that's before I changed the rear diff carrier bearings. It's great on a Sunday, etc., to do laps on the highway, back and forth with different settings to see what changes. Low traffic and cruise control helps minimize variables pass to pass. I think this tank I'll be well over 19 MPG, but watch it drop to 16.5 🤬🤔😆

Now I can fathom it.

My truck is basically stock. When I got started I bought a couple of Me78569's or AH64ID's tunes - I don't remember whose. Using those for a while and slowly adjusting timing using the Adrenaline article got me to where I am now - which I believe is up at least 1 MPG, just off of timing. One of my last trips I set the Quad to Level 0 and watched timing, EGTs, engine load, and throttle position a lot, to get a feel for the factory timing and its effects on EGT. When I went back to Level 2, my EGTs, required throttle input, and engine load dropped for the same type of highway cruising conditions. Now, the EPA may not have liked it because "parts per million" of NOx likely went up, but my truck was emitting fewer millions, too. I cannot fathom why Quadzilla made Level 0 Stock and Level 1 the Valet mode. If you have the Valet mode set very low at all, it makes it a real pain to switch between stock and Level 2 to observe differences. Set valet mode to 100%, and that would likely go away - I just switched mine while off the throttle since I didn't want to change Valet settings while driving, and didn't want to stop.

I must say since my dad got the two post lift the creepers don't get near the workout they used to!

My dad's Snap-On creeper is around 30 years old. No problems with the wheels, bearings, cracked frame welds, or anything. The padding is still good, and pad cover hasn't split - it is thick material. He's been well over 250 pounds the whole time. The wheels are larger than most, and I think there are 8 wheels, not 6.

I had a hell of a lot of backlash since the day I bought it almost 60k miles ago. When I had the rear cover off 40k miles ago, or thereabouts, ol' dad gave it a quick inspection and showed me how much of the slop was in the spiders and side gears. In the last 5k miles everything got a lot worse and I had already ordered the carrier guts so decided to install before the new year. I'm also a big fan of the LSD, whether gear or clutch type, and I would get "stuck" on wet grass unless I engaged 4WD. Turns out the "Lot Worse" must have been the carrier bearings! Perhaps someday my not setting preload and backlash will lead to "Even Worse", but I'm skeptical of that. First, I rarely haul or tow and even then it's generally light - a Massey Ferguson 135 may be the heaviest thing so far. Second, the tolerance on Timken or SKF bearings is pretty good and I reinstalled the same shims in the same locations. Time and mileage will tell. Good advice. As another note, beware that there are two different torque specs for those carrier bolts, and if you don't turn the page ('01 FSM) you'd never know! It's higher for bolts with special markings, which mine had, so I torqued them in 3 passes.

I figure bearing manufacturers have their tolerances down pat, the shims are for the differences between differentials. Same brand went in that came out. Considering we didn't need a spread to put it back in, I'd say if anything it's loose. I know the previous owner abused the truck, he basically told me as much. I figured I'd be driving this truck 800 miles per year so I really didn't care, now it's closer 30k miles per year so things are getting changed when time allows. I'm guessing Blueox01 wouldn't run into the same problem I did, hence saying it was quick and easy. Changing carrier bearings the right way clearly would not be either!

The actual changing of the clutches and carrier guts shouldn't require the setting of backlash. Changing the bearings like I did, sure all that other should be done and checked. However, changing bearings is not what Blueox01 is considering. If my bearings weren't absolute trash I would've put it all back together and taken it to "a guy" to do that amount of work! My bearing literally fell apart in the Parts washer, so it had to be changed!

When I had the Commie Cold in early October I was just exhausted a few days and tired for about a week after that. No fever, no breathing issues. Weird how different folks respond to it. Wife got tested and had it, too, so pretty sure it wasn't a false positive. She had same symptoms as me. She had the H1N1 way back and said that was WAY worse for her. That killed a LOT more kids than Wuhan ever dreamed of and they didn't close schools. My mom is 65 and got it, thankfully no problems for her, either. A high school classmate's mom got it and it killed her; she wasn't doing very well beforehand so it was more like the proverbial straw and camel back.

I would say Level 2, but with proper tuning I could see level 3 giving great mileage, too. I have no experience with wire tapping but Mike has previously mentioned driving around on max wire tap and getting good mileage. I seem to recall his wire tap doesn't engage until higher boost, like 15-20 PSI, so even when it engages shouldn't roll coal and waste fuel.

Nope. Just reused the shims that were there on the carrier bearings. Bearings weren't on the agenda yesterday, but tracked down two when it fell out of the truck and there was severe putting on the rollers. No pinion seal leak so left it alone.

Yesterday I drove 570 miles round trip. Thinking about this thread I set my Adrenaline to level 2 and tried my best to maintain 70 MPH. I averaged over 18.5 MPG. For a couple of miles through the Flint Hills of Kansas I went back to level zero (stock). I noticed it was rare for the timing to get near 15 degrees, it stayed in the high 13s and 14s mostly. Compared to my tune, where I'd be up at 21 degrees a lot. Going up the steeper hills it'd drop down to 15.5 or so. In Park and idling, timing advance is about 13.4 degrees on my truck (that is unaffected by the Adrenaline).

@Blueox01 I did order one of the Benz Force turbos, but delivery isn't until possibly early March! All to save a few bucks, I did the pre-order deal.