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dieseldon

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  • Location (City, State)
    Boise Idaho

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  1. Thanks LorenS, maybe it was because I had the weight of the truck on the axles? But turning the cam lobe towards the rear of truck was doable, turning them past 12 o'clock towards the axle wasn't, they would just spring back with force, hence the reason I had to hold the breaker bar with Jack.
  2. FYI, it was not easy turning those bolts that direction, I used a 1/2 in breaker bar with a small floor jack under it, basically with bar at lowest point possible and then jacking up to horizontal and then tighten nut. (Might help someone else out)
  3. So... I got around to fiddling with those cam bolts today, I turned them both ways but ended up turning approx. three "lines"/ notches towards the axle. Thanks for the help Haggar! Not sure if I'll mess with toe or not, drives WAY BETTER! At least 75% better, it's no longer scary, I can drive down highway with two fingers on steering wheel if I want without wandering back and forth, back and forth... Much more relaxed! You know that old saying, if you want something done right..... Thanks again, Dieseldon
  4. Thanks, I may try that, the funny thing is les Schwab was trying to tell me I needed more negative toe! Just simply would not listen, I showed them the spec's, zero toe, more caster!
  5. I'm confused, they? An adjustable ball joint? Haven't had a chance to adjust cam bolts yet, will update.. It's been about two and a half months, technically only guaranteed for thirty days, my hunch is they didn't check anything as far as look for worn parts the first time, this time they didn't say my ball joints were worn out, just suggested adjustable uppers for big $$ and weren't sure it would help. They were willing to readjust to the other spec's but another $90 and assured me it would do no good. That's why I left frustrated, they basically said, well tuff luck,
  6. Thanks for the info, yeah they don't look like they have been touched recently. Might play around with later. I'd show were mine are sitting but pic's won't upload! FYI, here is my printout
  7. Thanks Hagar, I might experiment with those. I just wish I knew which one turns which way to compensate for a left pull? Your picture is showing right inside can bolt turning counter clockwise, not sure if you're just pointing out the bolts and general position or? Don't know why I can't load a picture today? My driver's side, outer looking right behind wheel, marker line is at 12 o-clock, passenger side is about between ten and eleven.
  8. Thanks Dieselfutue, do you have any specific directions/link to the "tape measure one" ? Do you use the Thuren specs? Obviously you shoot for zero toe but he calls for a lot of caster too? I went back to les Schwab today, (different location ) at least he took it for a test drive and confirmed it drove wonkey. Besides the wander it pulls to the left. He put it up on the rack and said everything seemed good with alignment and parts wise. He wasn't convinced the Thuren specs would do me any good and suggested $200 plus labor offset upper ball joints? I wasn't thrilled about that p
  9. Moparman, I'd love to try a second gen that's as "good as gold" I can't help wondering if you've been driving one for so long you don't know the difference between that and a good driving truck, lol! I've been driving chevy/gm trucks since '80s up till my 08 that I sold to buy this 01 cummins, if I had the resources I'd put this cummins engine in any year gm I'd ever owned, the independent ft. suspension is light years ahead of these things IMO. But honestly I haven't driven many seconds gens to compare, pretty much mine and my son's '99 and mine is way better than his! And mi
  10. Thanks for the input, mine is 4x4, if you read the article we're talking about solid axles, he says 0.08 total toe is too much. I had les Schwab do mine awhile ago after putting in the 08+ tie rod setup and some other stuff, set to factory specs, hate it, they said they would set it to the Thuren spec's, but he'd never heard of it before, said my tires would wear out faster, (contrary to the article) and for another $90. Hence the reason I'm looking for others experience and possibly another shop. I asked them to look over all the ft.end parts to make sure everything was good, but I don't
  11. https://www.thurenfabrication.com/tech/alignment-and-handling.html Alignment according to thuren. I'm willing to hear anyone elses ideas also. Thanks.
  12. I have a question for anyone that might come across this that has the T -stearing linkage/tie rods on their truck. Any experience with the "Thuren alignment specs" ? Very specific that you have t-style linkage or disregard spec's, 0.0 - 0.05 toe and 3.8 - 4.2 caster, I believe the emphasis is on the 0.0 toe? Just had it aligned and NOT happy with factory spec's, always holding the steering wheel to one side or the other, back and forth, back and forth... Anyone know a good alignment shop in Boise/treasure valley area? Thanks!
  13. Thanks for taking the time to clarify some things! However as usual more questions come up, maybe time to wrap up this thread. ? I was asked earlier if my ECM (factory warm up mode) was turned on, if so I've got problems because they don't play well with each other, however obviously you can have both, BUT you need that switch, and when it gets cold turn off high idle settings on quad, got it, correct me if I'm wrong. Now, shouldn't I be able to use quad high idle as long as it's not cold, wether or not the ECM is enabled, and I'm assuming it's not, and wether or n
  14. Thanks for the help, so how do I use (turn on) the factory warm-up?? It has to be activated at dealership, a smarty or it's a kit?? It sounds like you turn yours on and off at will, (@factory ECM) how does one do that? It seems you have both, quad and factory with no issues, just lucky or is that the"kit" you're talking about? What am I missing here? You can use one or the other. It seems I can't use either for whatever reason short of deactivating ECM and it sounds like that's the one to use during winter. I'm pretty sure it was cold enough this morning to meet param
  15. Well, I finally think I got my slow starting sorted out, new batteries, (which really didn't help, but were marginal anyhow) turned out to be the starter, which I found out prior owner put in POS aftermarket ?! Anyhow, don't have money for batteries plus new starter so decided to disassemble this one and clean up and lube for the fun of it, was definitely worth doing, turns the engine 2-3 times faster now and fire's right up now even when warm! Almost afraid to bring up again, but still wondering why using i-quad's fast idle (warm-up mode) sets off check engine light and other issu
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