LorenS

As I recall from my research a couple years ago there are two types of vaccines (as defined historically, not the latest "definition"): Neutralizing vaccines, which are as you describe. The other one I don't remember the name of, where it reduces the symptoms - which sounds more to me like a "therapeutic", but whatever. I'm right there with you on the side-effects. I will never agree to have my kids receive a "vax" for this or a similar illness, and until the benefits outweigh the risks (like if I was much older, already sick, or it's for a MUCH more dangerous illness) I won't voluntarily take it, either.

My anecdotal evidence on the vax topic is that I've yet to hear from someone that isn't vaxxed and got it twice (or at least enough to notice, which is all that matters). But I've met many people who got vaxxed and multi-boosted, and have had it 2-3 times and also spread it. That statistic was glaringly absent from CDC data when I last looked.

I found this on Cummins Forum after doing a Duck Duck Go search. It's from this spring. Regarding Dynomat, I just question whether its adhesive would work with the temperatures seen on an oil pan, maybe it'd work on the valve cover. But Dynomat doesn't offer much mass; it's great for killing high pitched harmonics on a sheet of steel, but not sure it'd do much on something that's already stiff like a cast valve cover. The valve covers already 'thunk' more than 'tink' when tapped.

I see the price for the valve cover blanket is $300. That's a lot of money, but I drove my truck 3 days this week (have been commuting in my VW Passat TDI) and my ears are already feeling 'weird' again. My A/C has a leak so I have to drive windows-down. But even windows up in the winter my ears didn't like the truck. If my truck didn't leak so much oil I'd get the oil pan cover, too. "One of these days" I'll get all the leaks fixed; I have the crank seal ready to go in, figured I'd do that when I put in the new A/C condenser, which would also be a good time to install a new cam....

Fancy! Is that from ATP? https://atpwrap.com/2020/08/13/advanced-thermal-products-inc-is-a-manufacturer-of-high-temperature-insulation-systems-for-the-diesel-power-generation-aerospace-and-race-industries/

I run the muffler that came with my 4" Diamond Eye system. It's a straight-through and knocked down the noise really well. The front end of my truck is far louder than the back end. Mine exits in stock fashion, behind rear tire.

That was my first thought to purchase. It seems strange they don't put the bead around it like the filler neck has. However, with $10 shipping I think I'm going to just tee into the 3/4" vent hose. I don't fill the truck with it running. I have new tank straps coming so this will be a good opportunity to make the changes and may drop the tank anyway, just for better access. Wish I had the means at my home to just lift the bed.

This is correct. @Tractorman I believe did a bunch of testing around this topic.

What is a good, economical means to return the fuel to the general tank versus returning directly to the basket? Can a guy splice a tee into the filler neck VENT? Should I obtain the Airdog/Fass style tee that goes in the ACTUAL filler neck hose? I'd prefer something where I don't have to drop the tank. I bought a 3-way ball valve so I can seasonally return to the basket in winter, or to the tank in the summer. It's ~75 degrees here this morning, and by the end of my 23 mile commute the fuel was over 120 degrees running empty at 65-70 mph for most of that time. Fuel gauge at 1/2, so probably around 10 gallons in the tank. Trip meter at 400 miles. Two years ago my fuel was 160 degrees running empty on flat Iowa highways, so I know it gets hot.

Anyone have a source (or even manufacturer) for decent quality sealed grommets? There is a plethora of unknown-quality units on Amazon, but I'd prefer something I know is of near-OEM quality. I didn't see anything on Gardner-Denver's website, at Waytek Wire, or NAPA. McMaster-Carr has some at below link, style B, but freight from these guys (and no assortment pack available for future projects) makes me want to find another source. https://www.mcmaster.com/grommets/wet-location-snap-in-sealing-grommets/ Application is that I'm adding a backup camera license plate frame to my '05 Passat, and the license plate is mounted to the trunk lid. I need to pass a fairly large connector (RCA cable) out of sheet metal where it exits the trunk lid to the license plate. The 18 gauge wire would be swimming in a 1/2" hole if I used a 'standard' grommet. Maybe it'll just get a dose of silicone.

FASS DRP 100. Relocating the stock pump to the frame was probably sufficient as the pressure rose and was consistent, but I had already bought the FASS so eventually installed it just to see if it gave any noticeable improvement. It may have been better at maintaining a higher pressure in a high load situation.

I'm glad you got it ironed out. Relocating my lift pump to the frame helped my fuel pressure a lot. I put a spin-on strainer ahead of it since I gutted (on accident) the strainer/sock in the tank. Here's the link to an amateur photo of my install. https://mopar1973man.com/topic/18093-donaldson-upstream-spin-on-screen/

I don't have any ideas on this, but really like the diagnostics/detective threads so will be following along! Being able to see what the computer is being told by sensors may be critical to solving this one. Do you have a relatively good OBD reader like an OBDLink LX or MX? Or hook up the Adrenaline to see live data. Before starting engine see if anything looks weird, like coolant, fuel, or intake air temperatures.

That video is great! I bet that was the first and last time anyone utilized the 2-tier cargo system in the bed 😄

I wouldn't set my CANBUS to 115% right at 1 PSI, that's a big jump from 0 PSI, and you do have slightly larger injectors, too. Some will say your 1500 RPM timing is too advanced and won't spool the turbo real good, but you have the Low PSI timing reduction set at 4.5⁰ which is what I believe allows setting that 1500 setting higher. I don't run wiretap so can't comment on that section.

I believe it would hit the compressor if simply shortened in a straight line. Since I'm running stock sized injectors and don't really exercise the engine I still have my wastegate just wired shut. By winter I should have a new garage built so I can actually get around to these projects!

I would fix that before doing anything else.

As much of mine has rusted and fallen off, I'd be in a similar boat if not for the fiberglass camper shell.

This isn't my situation at all! I return to the basket and after switching to drawstraw (and the little screen came off the bottom of my fuel basket) I can't go below "quarter tank" which for me is 1/7th tank or 5 gallons. Three times at least since installing drawstraw tens of thousands of miles ago I've "run out" of fuel with 5 gallons left. And my fuel temp gets HOT running empty down the interstate in flat Iowa terrain. Like 160! Even at 3/4 tank.

Looks like your plug, just missing the extra layer of heat-shrink (or yours didn't get the heat-shrink shrank... shrunk... shranked... whatever).

Overdrive switch?

At least one food plant I know that's closing doesn't need financial help: the Smithfield/Farmer John's plant in Vernon, CA. I've been there a couple times, the last time was this February to gather information to quote millions of dollars of work to their refrigeration system. Maybe 60 years ago that location made sense, but it doesn't anymore. It's in the middle of a metropolis. I make my living going to slaughterhouses, and this is the ONLY one I've seen in this kind of area. My taxes shouldn't be passed out to any company to help them overcome burdens imposed by another state, let alone a Chinese-owned mega company that can just as easily move that production to one of their other facilities. I don't believe the fires are tinfoil-hat fodder. I believe the service techs with the most experience took early retirement, etc., due to the Wuhan's, and without their expertise the plants are falling to pieces and mistakes are being made by rookies who are being overworked due to staff shortages. Preventative inspections are being skipped, procedures like having a dedicated firewatch (when applicable) are impossible due to lack of manpower, etc.

It was a touch over $6 in Indiana last week, less in Illinois and Kentucky. Got home to Kansas City and it was (and is still) $5.09-5.29 depending on the part of town. Again, loving my '05 VW Passat TDI! Got an average of about 42 MPG over that 1100 mile trip.

...and 2WD. The top of your tire is above the top of your bumper. Here's a photo of my truck with POs 285/?/17 tires on it. The top of the tire is right at or even below the chrome of the bumper. Look at the body lines, and the top of your rear tire is right in the body "lines". Mine is well below, even WITH the 285 tires.

Yeah, there's a lot of unused real estate in the wheel wells! 4:11s and taller tires sure sounds good to me until you factor is rotational mass, drag from being taller, etc. And lifting stuff into the bed. I do like that about my 1995 4WD K2500, the tailgate is still at a reasonable height.