LorenS

I believe his tires are 31.6" in diameter. Compared to a 30.5" 245/75/16 I can't imagine that's an issue worth writing home about at this time. The Adrenaline should make a great improvement, but the following issues need to be diagnosed and resolved first: and @Shimritz do you have a means of looking at live data when this happens, and/or data log? An OBD reader like OBDlink LX or MX+ is a great tool to have, and pretty inexpensive in the grand scheme of things. Once you get your Adrenaline hooked up it can do a lot of the same things but not all. If you can hit 'record' on the data-logging and in maybe 4th or 5th gear go slow and steady from zero to full throttle in 4-5 seconds, that should show TPS readings, MAP reading, IAT reading, fuel temperature, etc. If your foot was steady in applying the go pedal and any of those jump around, we have clues to follow. I see you have gauges, is the fuel pressure good?

Weird and sporadic problems leads one to start thinking electrical. Have you done the W-T mod (see page 2 of Articles section)? Checked alternator A/C noise?

Sorry, I got nothin'.

I tracked down my issue, and it's in the C159 (or whatever the number) connector on the firewall, where the first go-around with the squirrels occurred. The connector is ever so slightly loose enough that that one (hopefully just one...) pin doesn't make good contact. I'm now going to put ANOTHER Weather-Pack connector in there. To be honest, it's very tempting to just run the blue and green wire from the alternator straight to the PCM instead of looping clear around the engine bay just to make the assembly line move faster in Saltillo, MX.

Some of my first memories of tractors was riding with my grandpa on his un-styled, 1930's Allis WC. It's still stored in the barn, I need to get my butt in gear and get it running good so I can take my boy and girl on rides before they get too old. He's already six, so I need to move quick! I always loved the sound of my dad's WD-45, so I bought one after buying some land. I didn't realize that his had been gone through so had higher compression and more power! I still liked mine, but didn't need a high-crop tractor to mow with. And without a Ferguson style 3-pt it was of little use (I realize these can be added) and sold it to buy a 1968 135 Massey-Ferguson, which I decided didn't have either enough power or enough gears (was actually a non-industrial 2135, now that I think about it) so bought a Deere 2150 diesel, basically a 90's version of a 2040, still made in Germany. There's something to be enjoyed about old tractors, and there's something to be said for power steering, no leaks, plenty of power, 8 gears, and synchronizers!

We have a couple tractors behind the business here where I work; maybe not Allis, I think they're Farmalls...? I may take a walk back there later and look. I was dumbfounded when the guys brought them back to the shop. We have guys that work here and are from out of town, so they buy these tractors to give them something to do after work before going to their apartments or the hotel.

ACS really did me a solid one today. After a squirrel went to town near my PCM and on the plug covers, I called ACS to order new covers. Jay took care of me and they're going to send them my way at a VERY reasonable price! It was obvious in talking with Jay for a while that he and ACS really know these trucks' electrical systems inside and out. If (when) I have further issues with my truck's wiring/ECM/PCM, etc., I will be using them for repairs, no doubt.

Following the article on diagnosing alternator no-charge issues, I have traced the problem to the blue wire. I have power at my PCM-protecting fuse, and no power at the alternator connector. Hopefully a quick repair here in the next couple days.

Some rodent actually chewed through a 120V cord for my more expensive batteryMINDer, so now I only use the cheaper one outdoors. It apparently lived to tell the tale. Because - of course - the rodent chewed RIGHT BY the charger, my attempt at repairing the expensive one has since failed. I need to desolder from the board, and I'm terrible at that. Hopefully I can get my buddy Jeff to fix it, he's a whiz at that stuff.

Marlin bolt action and some subsonic projectiles are on the invite list for my upcoming Saturday. Just pulled the alternator green and blue wires with engine running - neither had power. I read the older article last night, will follow that tonight to diagnose further.

Yes to all three. Breaker hadn't tripped but I manually "tripped" it and reset. Checked fuse, it's good - or at least appears to be. Will check later. At this point my money is on me not making a great connection with one of the butt-splice connectors. While I don't need any more failures on my "mechanic-ing" resume, I hope that's all it is.

Good idea!

Further update. Yesterday drove the truck 46 miles roundtrip, no issues. Today the alternator didn't want to work. I checked the alternator connections and wiggled the wiring harness at the PCM - I didn't have anyone to watch the gauge so no idea if it helped. I have BatteryMINDer on it so I can go to work tomorrow. Alternator new, few hundred miles at most, old one may have been the original. I didn't think to check voltage with the Adrenaline, if that would've done any good. How should I approach this diagnosis, considering the varmint damage?

Yep. Locally there's a 2000 long bed, 2WD. Super clean, 125k miles. Asking $25k and I bet he gets it. In this market if I woke up tomorrow and my truck was gone I'd go with $20k cash and hope to buy it. My dad's long time buddy sold his 2004 quad cab short bed 4WD for $40k just about a month ago. It had about 35k miles, super clean. Was his "going on vacation" truck, and he didn't have a camper

Fantastic, I'll try to remember to call you before 5PM Eastern Time. So for an update on this situation, I bought some Kevlar sleeves to slide over the wires. Pretty cheap on Jeff Bezos's website. Here are some photos. The lump of yellow is HUGE because of all the Weather Pack connectors I had to retrofit.

This is what I like about them on my VW Passat, but unlike the Bilstein units that fit our trucks, these are actually made for the car and just "well, they fit". If course right now the front of my truck is like having no shocks at all. Hit a dip in the road and you sway back and forth like a rocking chair. Unsafe, in my opinion. Can hardly wait to put the KYBs on. Just can't do much for a few more weeks while my back heals.

We can buy really small stuff here, like 1/8" outer diameter. Used for sensing lines for compressed air systems is where I have used smaller stuff, but not 1/8" small. 1/4" stuff is used all the time here for running refrigerator ice maker lines, or water supply to home humidifiers.

Since it's now an intermittent problem, that really makes me think electrical connection, or even the harness's relay. This may be hard to diagnose, but on the plus side, I bet the fix is dirt cheap!

Whoah!!!

This doesn't sound like a problem with the lift pump as it's clearly operating and does build 15 PSI when engine is running. I assume your lift pump is triggered by the ECM; if you hotwire the lift pump does it build pressure? Mechanical or electronic gauge/sender? It may have more to do with something getting weak and really needs 14.4V to be happy, versus 12V with alternator not operating - so maybe it IS the pump motor.

I would guess for "look at me" reasons. BUT if a guy spent a lot of time off road and at speed, splitting the damping between two shocks (per side) would split the heat load. All that energy shocks absorb is turned to heat and has to dissipate. Two shocks gives twice the surface area. They would need to be valved differently so it wouldn't ride like a hardtail, thus reducing heat per shock.

Now that you say that, I think based on you saying this before I bought some fronts. I used to run Monroe Sensa-Tracs on anything, if available, and thought they were just fine. They don't make them anymore, or rebranded.

Wow, that's amazing! I first learned about these desulfators actually being worth it from the Turbodiesel Register, it may have been Moses Ludel.

I put Bilstein 4600s on my truck several years ago and the fronts were junk after around 50k miles, per jounce test. Predominantly highway driving and mild driving through job sites. Thoroughly unimpressed. The rears are still going great. I can't remember what's in the garage waiting to go on, but they weren't expensive.

That's all I have to hear, will order them ASAP, immediately if possible! Thank you for the suggestion! I love my battery minder with the desulfator. I wonder how long my last set of batteries would have lasted if I hadn't had to fight a terminal off the post and thus cause a leak at the case-post interface. Or maybe the leak was there already and that's why I had to fight it, who knows. This was fairly early in my ownership. EDIT: hopefully these are similar. The above example was sold out everywhere I looked. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07D118ZRJ/ref=cm_cr_othr_mb_bdcrb_top?ie=UTF8#cm_cr_carousel_images_section