CSM

I would love to see the look on a policeman's face pulling me over on that. "dispatch! we got a bogie going down I-25 in a uh... dang. Some kind of infernal contraption!"

I want one.

It sounds cool. Any pictures?

Except the leak, it sounds normal.

It would be interesting to compare to a stock cam.

To get specific numbers, I need the degrees ATDC the intake valve closes. I can't seem to find the cam info stock on the Hamilton 188/220, but assuming about 4-5 degrees of overlap I get the following. I doubt 4.5 deg is anywhere close to right. I based it of half the overlap-45/2. Static compression ratio of 16.3:1.Effective stroke is 4.71 inches.Your dynamic compression ratio is 15.07:1 .Your dynamic cranking pressure is 353.71 PSI.Your effective boost compression ratio, reflecting static c.r., cam timing, altitude, and boost of 0 PSI is 15.07 :1.V/P (Volume to Pressure Index) is 381 Calculator used. http://wallaceracing.com/dynamic-cr.php In all honesty though, it has been so long since I got into the nitty gritty of cams, I really don't remember much! T-56 Allisons don't have Cams dangit!

Any injector leaks or high pressure fuel lines spraying? Odd issue. I'm thinking fuel or injector system issue.

I think injectors make a big difference with droplet size, but CR (compression ratio) makes more difference. H.o. trucks should start best, but Tylers truck will have a slight disadvantage with marine pistons. Another disadvantage tyler has is his big cam. I have not run the numbers, but I think that the dynamic compression at low rpm is pretty low.

Why pcm/ecm? If they just died, I bet your alternator or another electronic surge is killing them. You need to find the issue before you drive the truck if it is electrical. A multimeter on ac mode should see less than 0.1VAC.

Welcome!

Did you bend a u joint yoke with a particularly stuck universal?

Yep. At that point, it will likely be some new guides and probably some new valves. I would like to have the head off to do a gasket match port cleanup and do a valve job.... but it runs fine now and the start up smoke doesn't bother me.

Did it happen right when you hit the light switch? As in, you had power before you turned on your lights, or were the lights the first thing you powered on? I would suspect that you loosened your connectors between the fuse box and the firewall. I would get under there and check them and make sure they aren't loose. I would also start at the battery with a meter and start following the 12V... start at the battery, go to the box in the engine bay, then to the box inside. If you don't find it at the box inside, then start looking at the connectors between those two. Seeing a complete shut down of power to the inside is kinda odd and it sounds like something major got unplugged. Also, you might want to fill us in on what truck you are talking about. If you plan on sticking around, you might as well fill out your signature.

I once had a high mileage 6L Ford from work at -35... it was a 10 min process to get it running with the starter and then took 20 min of white smoke at idle to run normally. You couldn't see the apartment building I was living at for the white smoke.

+1. OP very well may have melted some things.

Really... When I searched I found the opposite. I am not sure who to trust.

My valve spring compressor is FINALLY here. It was backordered. I have been holding off due to a lack of time. If I ever get the borgeson steering box I ordered two months ago arrives I will get to it. The box is backordered indefinitely.

i will check. Thanks for the hard numbers!

I agree with you mostly, Mike. Although, I think you have better water that much of the country. The downside of the coolant is that leaks would be a problem, but the upside is that blown hoses are very unlikely, as the hoses have 0 psi on them, aside from pumping pressures and hydrostatic. I am not saying that it is cheaper to run than traditional coolant, but that it is very much a fill and forget system. I still would like to try it, and if I could buy a new 2nd or 3rd gen Dodge I probably would run the stuff.

Nope. Thats a good thought. I should do that.

WWwwwwooorrrrrRRRRRRRrrrrrrrrrrzzzzzZZZZZZZZZZZzzzzzzzzzzzz! So, last winter, I got this weird buzz from my block heater, and a very high current draw to the heater. Popped a CB in the house. And, like any true American would do, I reset the breaker and plugged that puppy back in! I haven't used it since though. I Ohmed the plug, and couldn't find any leaks and summer was coming so I didn't worry about it. I was thinking of replacing the thing soon. Has anybody had this issue?

I had to update my cache and delete my temporary internet files again.

The MPG mode will tell the engine that the air coming in the intake is warm enough not to run the intake heater, but not the block heater that you plug into your house. I don't think that you were asking about the 110V block heater, but just to be specific.

Over the life of the vehicle....

Mike, have you seen this stuff? Evanscooling.com. It isn't ethylene glycolic but a mix. Ethylene Glycol 66–70 %wt Propylene Glycol %wt not specified Water %wt not specified but from Evans webpage info it should be <3 %wt Proprietary Corrosion Inhibitor Package <2 %wt The cool thing is that it boils at about 350f, so your cooling system is kept at atmospheric pressure. It also has no water and is non conductive, so no galvanic reactions. Since there doesn't need a sacrificial buffer/inhibitor, it is good for infinite service life. I want to try it.