CSM

Also funny that most won't admit that they don't know whats up with the trucks and just make it up and muck it up.

You're pretty handy. I wish the 4x4s could be repacked. Oh well. I dislike the unit bearing assembly.

On the damage point mike, from what I read... Most of the parts are not rated for any real VAC from what I understand, and most won't be harmed. However, the integrated circuits of the ECM, PCM, Juice, and gauges won't live long. Edge told me that their juice modules can handle 18V (and 18-13.5=4V) but any noise that peaks past that will burn out a juice module. Also, most multimeters won't pick up the absolute peaks unless it is a flukemeter. I was seeing past 30Vmax on a flukemeter and only 13-19VAC on a normal cheap multimeter.

Big plus one to this. And if the "bank" can't find their copy of the title... then I don't think I would trust them.

I wouldn't give him anything more than a deposit unless I had the process verified through the state at minimum. He should be able to get a replacement title. If the bank doesn't hold a copy of the title, they should get one.

If you can feel it hunt, its not the converter. you can test it by pulling and isolating the field wire from the alternator, driving a bit on batteries and see if it still hunts. Though, I will say that I did have this issue from another source of noise. I would get AC when the truck was not running by the key was on due to a backfeeding relay in the AirDog wiring.

Very true, Mike. And that is a big plus to the Edge/Quadzilla boxes. I would also note that Quadzilla is out of business. They had good stuff, and it can be great value on the used market, but there is no factory support. I do believe that the site here has most of the tunes available for download.

Likely a copy / paste typo... but interested.

Go alot of places backwards doya?

It might. I've never run an Edge EZ or a power puck... Those may be good too, but I wouldn't know. I can say I am happy with the smarty. You might note though, MoparMan doesn't run one. He likes his Comp and has tried the Smarty in the past. So some of it is a matter of personal preference. Basically the Smarty will add fuel and timing to a maximum of 60 hp. However, the higher number the Catcher (power level) the faster it will get to peak power. If you buy a used one make sure it isn't vinlocked. They lock to the vin of the truck its installed on and won't load to another truck without returning the prior truck to stock. The Smarty has 3 cyl high idle enabled on all settings. You can still use it as a 2nd gen 24v code reader even if it is locked to your truck however. You can get the cable and downloader to use your laptop to install different versions of the Catcher softwares. Some are anti theft, some are winter fuel / auto trans specific, and the most recent is the REVO. Basically, the revo allows you to pick a Catcher level, then tune it by varying the sub levels of injection timing advance, injection fueling & pulse duration, torque management, etc. You can also correct the speedo for non stock tires. (one of my favorite things)

I have a smarty/comp stack at present. I like it. I've run the comp, juice, CTS, and smarty. The smarty gives a good low end grunt and perceived power increase. However, that is torque and at low RPM... which will be the hardest on the transmission. The smarty is good as I like how its tune-able. However, the comp (with wire tap) gives more power, 120hp. Yet the smarty feels more powerful. The comp will add more power overall, but at higher RPM and not as aggressively off the line. I don't honestly know how much power I get from them stacked, but with my previous (stock injectors/turbo) truck I really liked how the smarty drove. A downside of the smarty is that you have to shut the truck down, and take 2-4 minutes to load the software and any modifications each time you want to change a power setting. The comp/juice/etc. have simple buttons that you can dial it up or down as you drive. This isn't all bad though, as you don't have any additional wires with the smarty as it is just plug and load. - - - Updated - - - I would also say, regardless of what you get, you would need to watch boost and EGT. You can run the risk of pushing the stock turbo too hard and either burning it up, or overheating things. for a jaunt around town, getting a bit warm doesn't seem to be that bad once in a while. However, when towing, you want to keep from heat soaking things at those high over maximum temperatures.

If you don't want to tap the pump, get a Smarty. If I could only have one box, that would be it. I like the REVO tunability and the low end torque. The smarty alone will add ~60hp max. Plus, the smarty is going for 400 - 450 on the forums.

With the automatic, I would say an edge comp or juice module, the 50hp or RV275 injectors, and be very very gentle to the stock auto. You will kill it with mods. The stock components are not built to handle the torque of the modified diesel, especially at low speeds and lower engine RPMs. That is likely your weak spot.I would search for info from Cajflynn, he has made his auto 24V run over a million miles. However, he has a standby automatic ready to go, considers input shafts consumable every few hundred thousand or so (even billet), and somewhere has a Ram Rules for towing that he used with his 01. The biggest rule was stay under 20psi of boost.

When K&N first appeared on the diesel market, they marketed to a local trucking company. Trucking Company ended up buying a bunch of filters and a year to two later needed all new engines that the engine manufacturer would not warranty as the cylinder walls were worn excessively for the hours and miles. The Trucking Company sued K&N and ended up settling out of court, including an agreement that the Trucking Company would not publically bash K&N. Washable filters are outstanding for one application in my opinion, race cars. If you have a desert racer or dirt track car, you can put a K&N with a big pre filter element on a car and run it all season. No big deal, wash the filter each week, and rebuild the engine a couple times a year. However our diesels hopefully don't get rebuilt more than once over the life of the truck, at one rebuild each 500,000 mi or more. DIRT is bad. Paper air filters are cheap.

Cool. I have been to Vernal, Roosevelt, etc. quite a bit for work. I see some trucks like yours in the neighborhood.

Welcome. Oil patch perhaps? Vernal?

Given the price of diesel, oil, 3/4 ton tires, etc... You are likely enjoying a lower cost/mile also. Very cool! I never saw mileage like that on my 97, though I had headers, flowmasters (not loud ones), and 285 series tires on it.i would like to find a 2001 sport 1500 with decent miles. However, I am NOT a fan of the brakes on the 1500s. I had lots of issues with that.

Ok, I misunderstood. You could ad a cheater to your torque wrench and make x ft-lbs easier to attain... However, I would be concerned that you won't get it very accurate, if that really matters since the wrench is likely going to flex differently than when it was calibrated. .

It would be increasing the wrench arm 1.8/1.5*r. However, since the clicker and beam type wrenches measure the torque a the head and from the deflection of the beam from the distance between the head and needle, respectively... it doesn't matter. You can't increase the point where the wrench will measure.

I've seen it happen by accident with a blowout. The e&p company cleaned it up, but the old Norwegian farmer laughed and said "as long as ya keep sendin me dem checks, I don't care what ya do with dis tree acres!" I also don't think that well in the vid is a new drill. they have a wellhead and valve on it. I think they just opened it up and let it blow.

I love the American oil patch. haha.

So basically we would need to go to the FedEx style of mounts or go straight to an elephant ear mount like on a race car? Anybody have photos of the FedEx style mounts? I don't have a 53, but I am curious.

I had a SB con-ofe and flywheel and it was great. The larger flywheel smoothed out the motor a bit too. I upgraded the hydraulics as well. I was harsh on that clutch, and had zero issues with it.

In theory, it should increase the pressure. However, I would be more concerned that your FASS isn't working properly. Mine pushes 15-16psi. My pressure only really drops if my filters get dirty or if I have an air leak on the suction (tank side) of the FASS. I suspect an issue with the fass itself, that you have a leaky connection on teh tank side that is allowing very small amounts of air and thus decreasing the efficiency of the pump, or that your ball check valve on the return side of the VP44 is not working. Just a guess at that stuff though.

Another possible option is that you are sucking air on the suction side of the pump somewhere at a fitting or cracked line. That air in the pump would greatly reduce its head.