Rotax3006

Yes you have to crank the engine. leave 3 or 4 injectors cracked and crank the engine. Once they show fuel squirting out tighten them down. It will usually start once you have fuel out of 3 injectors.

The pilot bearing can make quite a bit of noise as well, only when the clutch is pressed though. Make sure you change it as well mine has had 2 failures so far. Talk about a lot of work for a inexpensive part.

Yep same for me. New one seems twice as fast. Glad you are up and running.

To be fair, i went through the exact same situation. My truck would start quickly when cold but crank for a long time when hot. I think as the starter started to fail i didnt notice the cranking speed slowing down. I definitely noticed once I installed the new starter though. Mine had bad bearings, easy to spot once you bench tested it. I think the heat sink would tighten them up and cause excessive draw and slow cranking when hot. I noticed with the scanner that once the cranking speed hit 300 RPM the truck would start. It just took longer to build pressure with the initial slower cranking. The VPs on these trucks are so fragile that its the go to anytime you have starting issues.

Any updates?

So if I understand you correctly, truck is starting fine now? Hope that fixed your problem. Enjoy the pack trip.

The good news is that those are not the VP death codes, of course that doesn't mean much. It does not sound like a fuel leak to me. It would have to be a major leak for a hard start immediately after shut off. Here is pretty good link to hot start trouble shooting https://www.bluechipdiesel.com/troubleshooting-quick-reference. This is what I used along with the advice on here. They definitely emphasize making sure the starting system is 100%. Good luck it can be frustrating.

I went through some hot hard start issues with my truck recently. I ended up replacing the battery and starter. When it was cold it would crank over great and fire right up. As everything got hot it wouldn't crank fast enough to build pressure and took longer to start. It seemed like it was cranking fast enough at least until i put the new stuff on. I would check the batteries and starter before you throw a VP at it, doesn't cost anything. My starter actually passed the load tests at Orileys but you could hear that the bearings had failed.

Thanks for the tip. Appreciate all the advice.

Yes the truck seem to be performing correctly now. It always ran fine once it started just cranked longer than normal. It starts cold or hot now. Had trouble when it was hot before. Fires right off now. Not a daily driver but I drove it for three days this week to make sure. Bill

No it was a Napa reman from about 15 years ago. It actually lasted longer than the factory starter. Core charge was $40 anyway.

Just got the long cranking all figured out. Turned out to be a combination of a bad battery and a bad starter. It fires right up now. Took the starter off and took it in to have checked. It passed all the load tests but sounded like death doing it. Replaced it and sounds night and day different cranking. Now off to address that lift pump before im back here asking the same questions.

I agree with you that oversized tires do make a big difference on drivetrain wear. I have only had the nut fail once and that was on the original transmission with 175000 miles. Once i put the updated shaft in the nut itself never failed. I stripped a couple teeth off the gear last summer. i got lucky and they just fell into the bottom without damaging anything. The guys at inland truck said they see that a lot. You might be on to something with the undersized tires. Steven the guys over at torque king can probably answer any questions you might have. Its a local shop for me so I always go and pick their brains they are pretty helpful. They seem to be the NV 4500 experts, probably had one of the best mainshaft fix kits ever. Not enough demand now so they quit making them.

I just put on of these in my truck last summer and i believe mine was the same way. I think the outer washer is to keep the inner pieces from falling out if it gets loose. It still keeps the gear from backing off because of the slotted shaft that the inner pieces fit into.

Thanks again guys. I know I need a better lift pump, will probably get one sooner than later Covid 19 and kids are hard on the truck budget. If this vp failed I believe it had to be a faulty pump rebuild. I know that fuel pressure was never under 12 psi for any extended period. Even with low pressure 5000 miles is horrible. Had it made 50000 I wouldn’t be too upset. My intention with the Hotwire test was to eliminate the electronic failure. That would narrow it down to mechanical issue with the pump. I don’t know if that eliminates the pump electronics though. I guess it doesn’t matter since the electronic failure requires a new pump too.