Rotax3006

I saw those photos on your post. Pretty substantial damage. Mine didn’t damage much except the mainshaft 5th gear, looks about like yours everything else seems fine. Headed over to torque king on Monday to see what they think. Seems to be a little play in the slot where the 3 piece split washer goes. Not sure if that needs to be tight or not. Bought a new split washer thinking it was worn. Measures essential the same as the old one. Hard to believe the shaft wore that much without the washer wearing.

Well guys I finally got it torn down. Not a nut failure this time. The mainshaft gear stripped 3 teeth off. It looks like one may be fatigued cracked/shock load not sure, the guys at inland truck said they don't see many like that. I do have an updated mainshaft with the 3 piece washer set. The retainer rings seem loose to me. When installed the gear can still move about .025 or so. I'm thinking the washers are worn thin and allowed the gear to move in and out and hammer the teeth to the point of failure. I have ordered a new retainer set as well as a gear and associated seals. We will see how it all fits together with new parts. May replace the mainshaft as well if the gear seems loose.

I have the same setup. I swapped in 275s because they were the same price as stock. It definitely made mine run better but I would guess that had more to do with the old ones being worn out than anything else. I did notice a bump in power and smoke as well. Its my understanding that with a tuner you can get a pretty good boost in power as well as mileage.

It was inland truck parts here in Montana that did it. They seem pretty reputable. Plus the company I was working for did a lot of business with them. This failure seems different than the nut coming off. I guess I will tear into it and find out.

Have you seen a nut failure on an upgraded shaft? I’m thinking it’s something else this time. But yes I agree if I take it off I definitely need to assemble it correctly.

Its possible I have been down that road before..... It would be an updated shaft failing this time if it is.

Watched a video of a guy flying a drone right outside of the nest. The wasps kept attacking the drone and getting killed by the props. Killed thousands of them that way. Eventually wiped out the nest, probably the coolest part was the camera on the drone caught all the action up close.

Hello Everyone So my truck has developed a new issue this past weekend. Heading home from the mountains I was cruising at about 75 in 5th gear. Pulled out to a pass a truck and began to accelerate. Let off for a second and the transmission began to make a clunking/knocking ticking sound. Kind of sounds like the teeth are slipping past each other or not meshing correctly. Only happens in 5th all other gears seem fine. I'm thinking I either lost some teeth on a gear or the shift fork/pins brake and its not engaging the gear all the way. Anybody experience anything similar? Finally do I have to pull the transmission to change out the overdrive gears if that is the problem? The transmission was rebuilt by a reputable shop about 70000 miles ago so I don't think its in too bad of shape other than said issue. Truck is a 98- 24v, 4x4. Thanks Bill

My cross member was a SOB to get in and out as well (4wd) I did basically the same thing with the hydraulic ram to spread the frame. I think I beat it out with a BFH then had to spread the frame to put it back in. I don't remember the engine tipping thing probably did it. Glad you found the problem. I have had mine fail twice in 256000 miles I actually liked the old brass bushing better than these phony needle bearings. I believe with some machine work you can install a better bearing if you want. I wouldn't worry about the shaft too much. Just a few marks I think you could buff them up a little and be ok. I have heard the NV 5600 is a pain to work on. good luck -Bill

Yes only way to check that is to pull the transmission. The input shaft was fine, the bearing is a needle bearing similar to a caged wrist pin. Cheap fix but lots of work. I think there are some updated bearings available too. I just used oem.

I had a similar thing happen to me. Pulled up to a stop light slid it out of gear couldn't get it back in. Shut off truck and put it in gear then took off. A little while later I pushed in the clutch to stop and truck kept going pushed in the brake and heard a snap. Turned out that the pilot bearing had froze up and was dragging the transmission. After that I didn't have any problems with the clutch. Replaced bearing with transmission and clutch a little later. I have had to put 2 pilot bearings in both from heat related failures. (Rocking the truck while stuck once). If the clutch feels good you might want to look at the pilot bearing ,although the Master cylinder is easier to check first.

I have nothing of value to add but wanted to say that was one hell of a good write up. My old roommate from college was an EE major and always talked about this stuff. Way over my head, I just build roads but if anybody wants to talk about super elevations I'm your guy...

I should have clarified better, the caliper froze up on the pins and wore one brake pad off. I’m guessing from all the mud, snow and that wonderful magnesium chloride the state uses. I’m in no way implying that an exhaust brake wouldn’t be sweet, I’m just not going to spend the money on me right now. Maybe down the road though. The old standard insult to injury.........

Did you experience a catastrophic failure at speed? That would be a ride for sure, probably about like blowing a front tire. I definitely drive like moparman, lots of following distance and the middle pedal doesn’t exist. This most recent failure was a result of a frozen caliper. The other side looked new still. Need to pay closer attention when I rotate tires.

Well got the Amazon brake rotors and pads on this past weekend. I ordered a set from a company called Detroit Axle, they are drilled and slotted and came with ceramic pads all for $99. They fit perfectly and seemed to be of comparable quality to the last ones I used(Napa). Definitely stops better so I guess time will tell how they hold up. Thanks Guys.

You could use it going uphill if you need to stop really quick!!! I know the benefits of the E brake when towing. I don't tow much (just a 2 place sled trailer) with the 5 speed I just grab 4th at the top and no worries. If I pulled heavy loads I would definitely consider one as brake fade is scary stuff. Lots of you guys are saying you like them for daily driving which is probably pretty sweet but without towing much I personally cant justify the cost of one. I think the new trucks come with these from the factory.

I would think that using exhaust brakes wouldn't really apply any more force or wear than downshifting with a manual. Probably less since you are not adding wear on the syncros to make the shift. The comment I made was something an old timer told me when I first started driving dump trucks 15 years ago. True but dodge is in the market to sell parts and services especially at 120000 miles.......Most of us have at least 2 or 3 in front of the OD now. I might keep an eye out for one but a $1000 buys a lot of brake pads. Plus I really want a Quad first.......As always good conversation and info.

Well just ordered a set of rotors and ceramic pads from Detroit axle off amazon for 100$ free shipping. We shall see.

I have always been told brakes are cheap, transmissions are expensive so stay off the E brake unless you need it. Have you seen any reduction in transmission life as a result? I’d like on someday if for nothing more than going down the logging road with a load of firewood. Unfortunately I have to be selective with my wants right now.

Well looks like economy brakes it is. Thanks for all the advice. E brake would be sweet but I don’t tow much, well that and I rather get a tuner next.

Mine is a 98 so I think thats out.

So I heard the standard grinding screeching noise under a stopping yesterday. Looked at the front brake pads and they are shot. Went on RockAuto for a new set of pads and rotors. I noticed a lot of different options. Prices ranging from 25 each for rotors up to 250 for the top end. Is there a substantial difference between the low end, mid grade and top end? I don't pull heavy loads, just daily driving to work. I'm of the school of thought that you get what you pay for. I just hate to waste money if its not really any better. I know the pads are substantially different depending on application but the rotors are my real question. Whats everyone else running, recommend, certain things to stay away from? Any certain combination that works better than others. I live in Montana so we don't really have major corrosion issues. Thanks Bill

Just thinking out loud here but wouldn't there have to be a leak in the fuel system for the vacuum to pull the fuel back out of the system? Cooling fuel can definitely create substantial vacuum just look at a 5 gal gas can. Either way it should be easy to check with shop vac or an air compressor.

I think you are on the right path. Does your amp meter fluctuate indicating the grid heater is working? Like everyone said good batteries and clean connections make a huge difference. How old are your current batteries? Might be worth getting them load checked.

I have had hard start issues a couple times. Just recently it was after I changed injectors. I figured I had a leaking injector feed tube. Checked and re-torqued to no avail. It turned out to be a leaking supply line washer, this did not leak fuel just let air in. Changed all 4 that led up to the VP and no more problems. With that said mine would fire right off then die/ sputter. That is what eventually led me to the supply side of things. I have also had the intake heater corrode and fail. That led to slow starting as well but also to poor running until things got warmed up a little (maybe 30 sec) . Maybe a little more info on how it runs/starts would be helpful in chasing down weather its electrical or fuel related. I know these trucks start way better with good batteries especially in cold weather.