Rotax3006

I mean once you get it to start, it runs rough for a few minutes while it works the air out. Mine takes maybe 30 seconds to a minute to level out.

Mine with rv 275s sounds similar. You don’t have air in the system if you get it to start it pushes it at least once you run it for a few minutes.

Thanks Mike. I thought from what I have been reading on here that’s what i needed. I guess I’ll start saving up for that.

Are you talking about the boost fooler (72$) or one of the tuners like the adrenaline. Sorry for all the questions, been running the old dodge since 99 but it’s always been in stock form, new to all this go faster stuff. Thanks Bill

Would a boost fooler and elbow help with anything or are those a waste of money? Don’t have the funds right now for a high end tuner. One of these days I’ll find the right deal but the kids seem to take all my disposable income.........thanks

Well the 275s are in! Truck definitely has some more zip and sounds a lot better. Throws a little smoke but not enough to get into trouble. Thanks for all the tips.

If you have a manual and a little room you can pull them. We actually used to start them on the ranch that way when the hired men ran them out of fuel. Which happens more often than you would think...... Good luck

If you are running a tune setup for stock injectors larger injectors could create a fuel/timing knock. Performance injectors have a lower pop pressure (sometimes) so they can act like a worn out stock injector if they are adding fuel too soon. At least that's the way I understand it. Somebody else will probably jump in here with a better explanation.

Well I guess I found that exhaust/leaking valve sound. Anyone ever braze these up? Good replacement?

About a quarter size. Equals about a quart every 3000 miles

Must have. I know it was one of the first 24v to hit Montana.

No photos, but it comes out the side cover. No vent on the gear case on mine. I’ll try to grab photo when it quits snowing. Here is a photo of outlet by starter

How did you do the blowby test? I'm getting ready to do mine and was looking for some tips. Mine is a 98.5 and has the more modern breather. Would that have been a recall or were the first models done that way, just curious. I bought it from my cousin who got it new and I know he didn't do it but it does have a couple recall notes under the hood but they seem to be computer reprograms. Mine drips every time I park it as well. FYI

I thought the exact same thing as you guys so I pulled the valve cover and took a look. I set them at 150k then again at 225k. They were almost perfect at .010 and .020 (where I set them). I did get a video of the noise at idle today. Sorry about the shaking. I also noticed the idle is slightly elevated. I think I read Mopar1973man injector write up that that is a sign of wear. I'm definitely going to go with the RV 275 injectors when I do pull the trigger. I did break a valve spring a about 5 years ago but it didn't fall in. I'm sure it kissed the piston a few times before I got to a place where I could shut it down. The valve did not feel bent you could spin it freely, felt like it seated fine. It was the daily driver at the time so I didn't have much choice but to put it together and drive it. (work gets in the way of everything!). This sound didn't start then though so I think its ok. Oil pressure is great still and the blades in the turbo look perfect. Could be leaking seat though. Might be worth getting a compression gauge and checking it out. I do have a backup vehicle now so I can take my time this go around. IMG_1388.MOV

Thanks for all the replies. looks like RV 275s are the ticket at least for my application. Will bad injectors create a ticking/Pssst kind of sound under deceleration? I have a sound that has been bothering me for a while now that almost sounds like a burned valve but its really quiet (at least compared to the burned valve on the old chevy 292 gasser). Cant hear it under acceleration, only deceleration with no throttle add a slight amount of fuel and it goes away. I guess it wouldn't be too hard to run a compression test when I swap injectors that would tell me for sure. I tried to get a video but I made it too long to upload. Maybe I can get a shorter one tonight. Thanks again guys.

Hi guys So I think its time for some new injectors, truck has a pretty decent knock than sounds like all the injector knock videos on you tube. The stock ones have 253000 miles on them so I'm sure the pop pressure is pretty low. From my reading on here it sounds like maybe 100-150k mile per set give or take. So my question is. With a mostly stock truck would you guys recommend RV 275s or the DAP 7V.008 50 HP set or something completely different. Some day I would like to add some HP but nothing too crazy for the time being anyway. They are pretty similar in cost so looking for advise/experiences for other users. 98.5 Standard Cab with lots of dents and rust.

So according to Cenex its 430. They say 10-15% better than traditional fuel.

I'm probably the odd man out here but I have a stock pump (carter) on my truck. My fuel pressure sets at 13-14 idle in the warmer months and 12-13 in the cold. I will drop to about 9-10 at WOT. My last VP went 252000 miles without adding and 2T although I usually ran cenex road master fuel (supposed to have additional lube). I would go to a mechanical pump if I was going to change it out. I guess for me the most important thing is to keep an eye on the pressure and make sure it meets those stock parameters. I think the VP got a bad rap early on when everybody was adding power with tuners and a marginal at best stock pump.

Hi guys, had a bit of a weird experience with my grid heater this past winter thought Id share incase someone else is having trouble. The intake heater wasn't working, the wait to start light would come on and cycle like it should but the volt meter never showed a drop. Checked the hot side of the relay, it showed 12 volts. Cycle the heater on no voltage at the heater terminals. Must be the relay. Replaced with new, same outcome. Took the leads off at the heater to check resistance, checked ok. Cycled the heater again and the leads showed 12v when they were not connected to anything. Long story short I needed to clean the lead at the battery terminal. Apparently it was making enough of a connection to show 12v but wouldn't deliver enough amperage once the intake heater was triggered. So my 6 month problem took about 5 minutes to fix once I figured it out. Anyway all is well now, truck starts without being plugged in. This is truly one of the best forums on the internet lots of helpful folks on here. Thanks Bill

Usually I use a Wix in some form, either Napa or carquest and Rotella 15/40. Although I currently have a K&N from walmart on there.

Mine did something similar to this. Turned out to be the pilot bearing in the flywheel. I went to stop and the truck wanted to keep going. Stepped on the brake and it made a poping/grinding sound. Next stop light it wouldn't go into gear had to shut truck off then start it in gear (stuck on busy street). Third time, made some more popping grinding and that was it. No more sounds or problems until the transmission went out then I discovered what that sound was. I have put 3 of them in my truck. if it was this or a throwout bearing it should have happened when you shifted or tried to stop.

I have a lot of the sealed factory joints in my truck still. They have 252000 on them. On the ranch we use Spicer joints with grease fittings. They seem to last a little longer if you grease them often. These operate exclusively in the dirt and mud, on highway I would use sealed units.

Since everybody else is doing it. Here is my weekend load!

We routinely put a round bale bed/feeder on our ranch trucks and 2 big round bales (4000lbs). I can tell you from personnel experience your truck frame will fail before you rear end (after years of abuse). Never had any rear end problems with the D80s.

Check the wiring going through the door post/frame area by the door hinges. I had one break the wire in there. It would work if you wiggled it. I would think you could pop the switch out and check for power when its not working to verify weather its a switch or power issue.