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It doesn't matter which return fitting on the pump the power steering or power brake return hose goes to; they both empty into the reservoir there for are interchangeable. As @Tractormansaid there is no benefit adding clear return tubing. I've seen it take 2days for the entrained air to vacate the system so be patient.

I am sorry for the loss of your father; please accept my condolences. The memories he gave you will last a lifetime.

Nice, just what I need for those cold SoCal mornings. A clean switch install. I see it uses a relay, where did you get the power from for terminal 87 and 30, switching power and main power, of the relay?

Thanks for sharing the mods. The vacuum pump that is used is the same type Volvo used for the cruise control in the 240, 740, and 850 models.

Welcome to the site. You've piqued my interest with the vacuum/power steering pumps deleted. Tell more with pictures please.

Since the noise can occur in neutral by increasing the engine RPM 1500-2000 the problem lies between the flywheel and the counter shaft. This would include the clutch disk, pressure plate, throw-out bearing, and input shaft along with the counter shaft. I thinking it could be a loose/broken clutch disk spring, but I keep coming back to the T/O bearing.

Also, this applies a slight pressure to the fingers of the pressure plate so that the clutch disk may not have the full force applied to it and possibly cause premature wear on components. "Keep your foot of the clutch peddle" was empathized when I earned to drive. To hear the noise better have you tried turning the engine off while coasting?

Sounds like a problem with the throw out bearing.

Yes, I thought about adding one to the list. Mike's referring to the time my VP44 took a dump about 20miles from his house and he graciously ordered one from DAP, then came out and helped me change it.

Radiator and heater hoses and I have a Timbo app under the back seat.

I think Diesel Auto Power has a Smarty rental program. https://www.dieselautopower.com/smarty-s-03-rental-sr-s03a

Give Auto Computer Specialist a call. They should be able to help you with your needs. Phone Number: (954) 513-8359

It should work. I'd buy it and have it bench tested as a 99 Ram. All you have to lose is $50+shipping.

When I have a hard time lining up a convertor, I set the transmission into a vertical position and lower the torque convertor on to the shafts, spin the convertor and let gravity pull it into position.

For power splice into fuse #5 (orange wire) in the left side of the dash and ground anywhere that's convenient.

Good to hear and thanks for the feedback.

Dose the rebuilt 2000 engine have a cam shaft position sensor as well as a crank shaft position sensor. Early 2000 blocks had both whereas 2002 blocks only have the cam shaft position sensor.

With engine at idle and operating temperature, with all lights and accessories turned off, measure AC voltage between the alternator's B+ terminal (that's the big stud with the red wire attached to it on the back of the alternator) and the negative battery post. The voltage should be ≤ 0.03.

That's a stock diff in my truck with 4.10. The way your truck is set with 285 tires and a 3.55 diff the effective gear ratio is 3.42. If you were to go down in size to a 245 tire the effective gear ratio would change to 3.69 where you would gain some better pulling power keep, decent fuel milage and help lower exhaust temps going uphill without down shifting, plus is cheaper than changing ring and pion gears.

Check this link out. https://www.google.com/search?q=2001+dodge+ram+diesel+fuel+injection+lines&sca_esv=edeca30911a1fd73&sca_upv=1&source=hp&ei=n-nTZoLACqTLkPIPyc-C0QE&iflsig=AL9hbdgAAAAAZtP3rxJa1xWfCcKDnC1GGQbOPxlX8yu1&oq=2001+dodge+ram+diesel+fuel+ijection+lines&gs_lp=Egdnd3Mtd2l6IikyMDAxIGRvZGdlIHJhbSBkaWVzZWwgZnVlbCBpamVjdGlvbiBsaW5lcyoCCAAyBxAhGAoYqwJItrEDUOFKWOWeA3ABeACQAQCYAW6gAbkdqgEEMzcuNbgBAcgBAPgBAZgCK6ACyR6oAgrCAhAQLhgDGOUCGOoCGIwDGI8BwgIQEAAYAxjlAhjqAhiMAxiPAcICDhAuGIAEGLEDGNEDGMcBwgIFEAAYgATCAg4QLhiABBixAxiDARiKBcICCBAuGIAEGLEDwgIOEC4YgAQYsQMYgwEY1ALCAggQABiABBixA8ICCxAAGIAEGLEDGIMBwgILEC4YgAQYsQMYgwHCAg4QABiABBixAxiDARiKBcICBRAuGIAEwgIGEAAYFhgewgILEAAYgAQYhgMYigXCAggQABgWGB4YD8ICBRAhGKsCwgIIEAAYgAQYogSYAwaSBwQzNS44oAeZqQM&sclient=gws-wiz

It may be possible but is it manageable? Someone with a manual transmission will chime in. If you need to drain the new fluid buy a new oil drain container and use it exclusively for transmission oil. I do this for my auto transmission when I need to do internal work like on the valve body or adjust the rear band. I wrote on the side of the container "ATF ONLY".

Ohm test the wires from the PCM to the transmission speed sensor for open circuit and check the connectors for corrosion/poor contact.

It's not supposed to be grounded. That test is to see if the wire is shorted to ground.

I have a @Dynamic built stage 2 transmission; below are the line pressures the transmission now has: stopped in drive 85psi @800 rpm light throttle 2ed gear 105psi light throttle 3ed gear 110psi light throttle 4th gear 120 psi @2200 rpm full throttle 1-2 shift 180psi @2800 rpm full throttle 2-3 shift 175psi @3100 rpm full throttle 3-4 shift 150 psi 100% throttle 4th gear w/torque converter locked 160psi @70mph As for adding a drain plug in the transmission pan there is an article in the 24 Valve 2nd Generation transmission section. https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/24-valve-2nd-generation_50/52_transmission-transfer-case/adding-a-transmission-drain-plug-r674/

Did you run all the tests outlined above? That will tell you what to look for and what part of the circuit it is on.