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Is there a place nearby that can test the alternator before you buy another one?

Is it worth it? I don't know. How many rear freeze plugs have you heard of blowing out due to heat in the rear cylinders. May be a problem with the lack of coolant pressure release during high RPMs along with some other underlying issue like weak freeze plugs.

Can you bench press 50 pounds? Tool needed to get the carrier out and back in is a rear axle spreader https://www.vevor.com/differential-housing-spreader-c_10334/dana-spicer-differential-housing-case-spreader-dana-30-44-50-60-70-80-p_010780674643?adp=gmc&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_id=21040685019&utm_term=&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw5v2wBhBrEiwAXDDoJW0ujeO9IT-MqMJpUAHGEaiOTnYXBl9kzBajCLoWtsREe5IpPrxQSxoCRycQAvD_BwE.

I never had to R&R the whole axle assembly to change bearings. Jack the back of the truck up and put jack stands under the axle. Now remove the cover and drain the housing. Remove the driveshaft and the pinion nut; I always market the flange and pinion, so they go back together the same as they came off. Remove the rear tires and axle shafts. Install the spreader, remove the carrier bearing caps and remove the carrier; be sure to mark the carrier bearing caps so they go back the same as they came off. With a mallet and a block of wood beat the pinion out of the housing. The front bearing should come off and the rear bearing can be pressed off and the new one pressed on. Remove the old races out of the housing install new bearing races, pion and new front bearing. Inspect the carrier bearings while out of housing. If they are bad press them off keeping the shims to back on to the same side they came off and press on the new bearings. Put the carrier back in and torque everything to specs. I've replaced whole rear axle assemblies in Volvos and Chevy Astro vans jacked up off the ground with a floor jack and another person to help man handle the unit. It's not hard to do.

I've done a few pinion bearings in Dana rear axles and they aren't that bad. You'll need a spreader to get the carrier out and back in, a big hammer to knock the pinion out of the front bearing/housing, a press to remove and install the rear pinion , and a big torque wrench. There will be a shim under the rear bearing, just reuse it when the new bearing is pressed on to the pinion.

I have a pack of flux coated bronze rods, 56% copper.

I've fixed leaking PS reservoirs that crack where the mounting bolts go through the sheet metal by using a brazing rod and acetylene torch; don't use JB Weld, it won't hold up to the vibrations.

The 12 volts comes from the transmission relay and is used to power the torque convertor solenoid, overdrive solenoid and the variable force solenoid (governor pressure solenoid). With the 8pin transmission connector unplugged The PCM would not get a transmission temperature signal or a governor pressure signal.

Don't have one. I use Valvoline 75w-140 full synthetic gear oil, changed out every 45k miles.

NICE

I removed the lockup switch when the Pac Brake was installed but, for your purpose, I don't see why it wouldn't work. Here is the wiring diagram for what I did but it can be modified with the ground wire going through a switch then the resister to ground. You could run it through a relay with a switch like the relay on the right side of the diagram. The relay on the left side is for release of the lockup with the foot brake option.

I going by what my friend told me, a 360. Maybe I didn't hear him right or had a senior moment. I'll check with him tomorrow.

Unplug the Edge EZ and see if that makes a difference.

How about the two ground wires for the PCM. They are the black/tan 14gauge wires at PCM terminals C1 #31 and #32. They go to splice S126 before going to the right side battery. Here is a link to what I did to improve the grounding continuity. https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/24-valve-2nd-generation_50/51_engine/electrical/pcm-ground-splice-repair-r675/?tab=comments#comment-115

Have you seen this in the FSM? NO LOW GEAR (MOVES IN 2ND OR 3RD GEAR ONLY) 1. Governor Circuit Electrical Fault. 1. Test with DRBT scan tool and repair as required. 2. Valve Body Malfunction. 2. Remove, clean and inspect. Look for sticking 1-2 shift valve, 2-3 shift valve, governor plug or broken springs. 3. Front Servo Piston Cocked in Bore. 3. Inspect servo and repair as required. 4. Front Band Linkage Malfunction 4. Inspect linkage and look for bind in linkage

If you need another view let me know and I'll get it for you.

I like he color combination. It reminds me of a 1970 Dodge Hemi Super Bee. i

My buddy has a 72-73 P/U with a 360. I'll take some pic today and get them posted on Sunday.

@JAG1 and I use a fuse on our charge leads. Yes, I carry spare fuses under the back seat along with the other spare fuses, spare belt, spare hoses, and spare Timbo apps; I keep the spare tire under the bed. The fuses are not that "spendy" https://www.amazon.com/Skar-Audio-Nickel-Plated-Fuses/dp/B07WLWVZBH/ref=sr_1_6?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.9FO_d7aRNEcZEswxEveToxpqTkwZPNUZ9OmptAnJJl9bsa9NNvs-9WH_6ipPNSGHAx4bAPaUiqqw-0Y-OfOgyk-jQ4t4ZlMbAF4TKwloFp9stxERb7pgLEcGUrRaIjNzIxCvrQO7vCZ2aFUn8kanURucLaokdQ_4z85Qc9d6M0DpVzJUMIQXrQRvMrcB84p0EEtvVdQEjEYYntbR3nc5XsZJL7U_rKpZVKzBBYlQpIxvfwkvzBGTbMR-SaHBLVI1u37zSo73o5yrnfxK7DydkHwa80jbjkqN7O3oxJ7CWvk.PEAtm4uj2VqWrJa6LgPRtP_atj6I-Xs6zlwOzAgBkdM&dib_tag=se&keywords=anl%2Bfuse%2B150%2Bamp&qid=1709919512&s=automotive&sr=1-6&th=1

Very nice, clean and now you're going to be a truck molester when you get it home.

pics and info please; year and milage also.

About the same as I see with my Fluke. I'd call this an acceptable level. If you need to replace the terminals then do so otherwise wait till they are needed.

If you drove the truck with the alternator disconnected and it still does it then you can rule out AC noise. Most likely a failing lock up convertor disk. Test right away; a catastrophic failure could take out the rest of the trans with clutch material debris.

military spec top post battery clamp

If you take it to a place like O Reilly auto parts they will only be able to volt/amp test the alternator. It's best to take it to a shop that rebuilds starters and alternator for a more Indepth test; call first to be sure they can do that type of test.