IBMobile

I'm going to keep it as a spare. My tire size is LT 245/75R16 so I'll be fine.

Congratulations! It's a grate place to visit for any occasion. I was there the end of last August through Labor day in September at Tunnel Mountain in Banff and Whistlers in Jasper. When I made my reservations in January the pickings were very slim. You have to keep trying, There may be a cancellation.

I carry a lot of parts and tools with me but two things I know will get the job done, a AAA card with 200 mi. RV towing and a credit card. I'll be going through Banff Canada on my way to the Sierra Nevada Mountains.

My truck with 4:10's gets 14-16 around town, 16-18 freeway and I am an old man. I just put in new RV275 injectors so we'll see if there is any improvement.

Well yes and no. I helped talk him through a complete engine overhaul he was doing on a turbo Volvo. He had the steering gear still in its' shipping box. He said the people that owned the house before him left it when they moved out.

I got the steer box with what looks like the adaptor on it. The price was right, free.

The tag on my factory hitch looks like this hitch type trailer weight tongue weight weight distributing 10,000 lb. 1,000 lb. weight carrying 5.000 lb. 500 lb.

I'm leaving on a 5 week camping trip this Sunday and don't have time to wait. I went to Home Depot and bought a 2 pack for $30 https://www.homedepot.com/p/Kidde-1-A-10-B-C-Recreational-Fire-Extinguisher-2-Pack-21027416MTL/303196148

Great minds think alike.

I stalled a set of RV 275 a couple of weeks ago an followed these. There is no need to remove the exhaust rocker arm or the rear bolt for the injector hold down. I put the fuel lines on finger tight then tightened the injector hold down to 89 in-lb then I torqued the fuel lines at the injection pump and the cross over tubes to 28 ft-lb. When I adjusted the valves there were only 2 that were opened 1-2 thousandth of an inch more than specs. There were no tight valves.

I took of the boost elbow off an reinstalled the original fitting. The manual waste gate adjuster is mounted to the battery tray with a cable/hose support clamp and a 6mm X 1.00- 40mm bolt and nut. That mounting point became freed up after I removed the #8 gauge ground wire that was attached there and moved it to the other battery. I order it 3/20 with standard shipping. The confirmation email said I could expect it April 7- May 9. I received it March 28, via air mail. The final, final installation.

Found a 3' length of1/4 silicone wastgate hose from a VW shop here in town. $6.84

A friend of mine came across a brand new, in the box, Borgeson Model #800120 quick ratio steering box. Is it worth getting without the steering column or pump to go with it? Will it work with stock steering column and pump?

Just last week I installed a new PNP (park-neutral-position) switch that was bad right out of the box. It was a good thing I tested it before the job was buttoned up.

Maybe the contacts in the ignition switch behind the key and lock. Next time it happens turn the key slightly counterclockwise and see if the radio or turn signals turn on.

The ground wire that comes from the auxiliary battery negative post clamp and splits in a Y has a connector at the end of each 'leg of the Y'. One leg connected to the ground wire that ran by the alternator, in front of the engine and to the point where the 4 wires spliced on to it. This wire is unplugged from the connector by the auxiliary battery, cut of at the point where the 4 smaller ground wires join it on the left side of the engine and thrown away. The other wire that runs by the air cleaner is the ground for the PCM. This wire run is 2-#14 black/yellow wires from PCM spliced to a #10 black/yellow wire to a connector. This connector joins the other leg of the Y which is spliced to the #8 wire at the auxiliary battery negative clamp. It can be either left plugged into the other leg of the Y connector or you can cut out the connector and Y splice at the battery. Now find where the 2 #14 AWG grounds for the PCM splice into the #10 AWG and cut out the #10 wire. You can now solder the 2 #14 grounds to a new length of #8 AWG and the other end to the #8 at the aux. battery.

Yes it is a Bone creeper. Strip the cover off until you reach the main wire harness, ~ 3-4". Bottom arrow shows the ground wires coming out of the harness. No, there is no inline fuses. It's a mater of personal choice for me. All the Volvos that I work on don't have one as well as any other car that I've owned other than this truck. In over 45 years working on cars I've seen only one moron jump a car backwards. Nothing happened to the alternator but the ignition control module got fried which an alternator fuse would not have helped anyway.

NAPA has it part # EH227 1/4" turbocharger hose H/D truck silicone hose @ $17/ft. This is a special order part and I would need to prepay the whole 50' roll for $850. I think not and will keep looking.

No Just the new ground, #6 AWG cable, to the main, left side battery.

This will roll over your old bones and you'll feel good about it.

I've done mine already. This is what I did. 1 Disconnect batteries 2 Unplug ground wirer, the one (black/yellow) that comes by the alternator, at the aux. battery. 3 Remove the charging wire from the B+ terminal of the alternator. 4 Remove alternator top bracket. 5 Remover the ground and charging wire from plastic conduit removing the 3 clamps as you go. 6 Remove the 10mm nut that holds the charging wire at the PDC and throw the wire in the trash. 7 Cut the ground wire where the 4 wires are spliced into it and throw the old ground wire in the trash. 8 Strip the 4 ground wires an solder the in to a #10-12 1/4" eye lug. You may have to spread the end of the lug open to fit all the wires be for you solder. 9 Install new 1/2" conduit on remaining wire that are in front of engine and reinstall the 3 clamps. Tape ends as you go with quality electrical tape. 10 Make the ground cable from engine to main battery. Cut #6 AWG cable 18-20" long and solder lugs on. I used a small butane torch to do this. Don't for get to orientate the lugs for minimum cable twist and slid the heat shrink on the cable before you put the lugs on. 11 Attach ground wires and cable to engine case with the 5mm x0.08 bolt an a flat washer and attach other end to main battery negative clamp. 12 Make the B+ charge cable from alternator to the auxiliary battery. Cut the #4 AGW cable 20" long slide on the heat shrink and solder on the lugs. The sides of the #4-1/4" lug that goes on the alternator B+ post may have to have its side ground off by a few thousands to make it fit in the insulator. 13 Attach the B+ charge cable to the B+ terminal of the alternator and the auxiliary battery positive clamp. Refit alternator top bracket. 14 Inspect all work, reattach all battery cables to the batteries and rest APPS. 15 Start engine and test DC and AC voltage at B+ terminal and both batteries. A battery shop has the cable and lugs. The rest of the materials, (solder, heat shrink' cable cover, #12 -1/4 lug, bolt and washer), came out of my supplies, 2' #6 AWG $5.54 2' #4 AWG $5.54 1 #6 -1/4" lug .47 1 #6 -5/16" lug .47 1 #4 -1/4" lug .47 1 #4 -5/16 lug .47 TOTAL 12.96

That's it in a nut shell.

Hose for fuel evap system till I can get silicone wastegate hose from a supplier tomorrow.

Glade to see you're still trudging along and up graded to a third generation. Here's a pic of the bridge I took last September. It's the only bridge in the U S where it is legal to base jump from. Dripley still likes to horse around

Final installation after adjusting boost pressure.