RJC2

These are the front and rear lines where they attach to the transmission. This is why I want to get them off now!

This is the problem area that is leaking. The black area is rust inhibitor that I had applied to try to slow the rust down a bit until I could get the lines replaced. I have decided to just bite the bullet and replace all of them. If I don't get them off now, well, I wouldn't want to do it later, it will only get harder.Has anyone ordered these lines from Rock Auto before. I am having a hard time figuring out which one is which. I called them and the girl that tried to help me was no help.I want to order: 1) The front line from the transmission to the tank (don't know what that thing is called) on the passenger side of the engine.2) The line from the above mentioned tank, to the cooler near the grill. It attaches to a rubber hose with a clip about a 1 foot back near the oil pan.3) The one that goes from the cooler (connects to rubber line with metal fitting held by a clip near the oil pan) to the rear port of the transmission.Is it best to replace those fittings that go into the transmission as well? They don't look good either.I hope this isn't too confusing.

Now that sounds like good advice, after a hefty coat of undercoating to prevent the rust issue.

Knowing Mike, he is on the phone helping someone with a Dodge.

Maybe we will hear the definitive answer from the great one in the clouds... of Idaho that is.For what it's worth thats the way I have always done it too. Batteries attached, slow charge preferred. I have been told that once batteries have discharged and a vehicle is jump started and the batteries are recharged by the vehicle only, that they never fully recover to total capacity without a boost from a battery charger. They appear to be at total charge but reserve amperage is depleated. I learned this from a automotive electronics Tech. instructor at the local College.

thanks, I'd like to see that set up.

Is there a way to link to Rockauto through this site for the discount? I checked their website and really am not sure which line is which. The price looks good. How was the quality?If I am looking at the right ones Part #s B61050, A61097, & A61098 the total would be around $100. Not bad.

Are you saying that you removed the sway bar and aren't going to put it back on?

Sounds like a whole lot easier way to do it. I wonder if a repair with rubber line would last? I would still need to find a place to put the sending unit for the trans. temp. gauge.

I have "leaky line syndrome" you know where the connectors hold the lines from rubbing each other along the transmission. They have started to rust and are beginning to drip. I called the Dodge dealer and the three lines cost $232.78 not including the little clips (rust starters) that are $3 each. The price didn't sound too hateful but I was wondering if there is another source that has lines with a port for the transmission temperature gauge that I am going to install?I called Geno's who sells them for the older trucks but not the 02. They recommended Goerend Transmissions who said they order them from Dodge and would have to charge shipping on top of that. No good.Any help from a "been there done that" guy is welcome.Also, are these lines a MitsuBitchy" to get off? After reading the recent posts about the ball joint fiasco, I thought I had better prepare myself. It takes less time to have hemmoroid surgery than to remove ball joints from the sounds of it. I hope this isn't akin to that job.

36 grit is used on plasitc. The paper I used was intended for plastic body repair. The idea is to rough it not grind it off.

I used it by hand and was careful as an air filter is not the place to go nuts with sandpaper! Like I said, it won't come off. I guess one could take a file and cut a few grooves around the neck and get the same effect. I have all grits from 36 to 2000 on hand and thought 36 would do the best job.

It was 36 grit. I wanted a deep heavy cut so the rubber would have something to hold onto. I held the filter upside down so any abrasive that may have become dislodged while sanding would fall to the ground and not into the filter. It didn't take too much just a couple of rounds with the paper.

I noticed that problem with the filter slipping off the turbo tube when I installed it. I took some 36 grit sandpaper and sanded around the opening so the tube would have some grab. Then I cleaned both mating surfaces with brake cleaner on a rag. I lifted up and pulled on it and it didn't give a bit.

I am running completely stock. I wish I had known about the size difference before ordering, I got the part number from a post somewhere. I little bit of diameter makes a big difference in capacity, not only in air in but the amount of dirt it can hold which means it lasts longer. Next time.The only reason I elected to make a bracket was just to get it up off the studs sticking up below, and that it would be stable and not rub on anything.The heat sheild wouldn't have been hard to make, but probably not worth the effort from what Mike says. The heat would actually work for me in the winter months. It would probably be worth making a duct to pull air over the turbo into the engine in the cold months. It would give warm air to the engine and cool the turbo, reverse it in the warm months. I need to think about this one more.I did think about taking the stock air box and cut the bottom off of it to use as a base for the BHAF. It would fit right back over the bolts.

I find it interesting that the guy worked for "whom" before retiring? It may appear to some that he is making sure his reitirement is solid by advertising for the company. And the part about the seat being so comfortable is a crock of cow poo. I have a severe back injury and the seat in a vehicle makes or breaks me. I have wondered who at Ford designs their seats. They are like sitting on a board, of course after a million miles maybe it has softened up a little.I have owned six 7.3 Powerstrokes, they were all good engines. I only saw 20 mpg one time running empty at 55mph on a long trip. I don't question that this man has a million miles on the truck, that is possible. I am not convinced about the claimed fuel economy.

That is what I'll do. Do you have a cover on yours? I had thought of that afterward. I wash my engine often and wondered how the water would effect the filter if I didn't cover it. I am just sitting here thinking that in heavy rain the filter could get a bit damp as well. One problem leads to another...Damn mice.

I wish I had known that part # yesterday. I didn't know there was a "big unn". Good thing you noticed as someone else can avoid making this mistake. It probably didn't cost a whole lot more. I see you have over a million miles on yours. Have you replaced your seat yet? That is some serious saddle time.

That's the story of my life, No, seriouslyWhat brand is yours?

Yesterday I checked my air filter and found that a mouse had started chewing it. No gaping hole, but getting there. I realized that the factory air box is nothing more than a nice "mouse motel" and decided that it was time for a BHAF as they are covered with steel mesh and not so easy to eat through.I did a search and didn't find too much regarding how to mount this thing so I thought of making a steel bracket from 1.5" x 10" steel strap 1/16" thick, [see last photo]. I drilled a 5/16" hole in the end of the air filter and put a bolt with a large flat washer through from the inside and bolted the bracket to it using thread locker and two nuts so the bolt couldn't come loose (and go through the turbo). The bolt fits the hole very tight so I don't have to worry if it did happen to come loose. As you can see I used some RTV silicone to cover the nuts and prevent corrosion. I then drilled a 11/16" hole for the air filter monitor and installed it. I attached it to the fender with a exhisting 13mm fender bolt. I made that side of the bracket with slot instead of a hole, so that when I want to remove the air filter all I have to do is loosen the 13mm bolt and the pipe clamp on the other end, and lift it out.The filter sits about 3/4" below the hood, and has several inches of clearance under and around it. I did think of making a heat sheild, however, after talking to Mopar1973man decided not to. Mike says that they aren't necessary so I thought I would try it this way without one.The filter is a NAPA #6637 and was about $62 total.Any input pro or con is welcome. Always trying to build a better mouse trap (pardon the pun).Bob

Water in the cab is hard to dry as the factory carpet has a rubber liner and it holds water under it, at least that is how my 2002 carpets are. A dehumidifier placed in the cab overnight would do alot to dry it out. I have done this many times after cleaning carpets and it really dries the thing out.It would be best to puff the carpet up as much as possible to allow the dry air to get under it.Damp rid is nothing more than calcium choride in a container with an area beneath it for the water to accumulate. It has very little capacity to dry in comparison to a dehumidifier.Also, if the water lays in there long enough it will start rusting out your floorboards and you will have a musty smell.

I had it too with an old and new (Dayco) belt. I then got the goodyear gator belt and no more chirp since. Others have said it is the only way to stop it, it worked. Got it on ebay for around $24 including shipping.

When I did my install the directions said to fill the primary filter before installing it. I just filled both to be sure and all went well. I am glad your up and running. Amazing how the bug got in there.

I don't know how closely related the AD165II and the AD100I is, but I just had a discussion about the port for the pressure sending unit with Eric at Vulcan yesterday. It was the one on the top of the base plate that is used for it on the 100 model. There weren't any open ports on it anywhere. I know many of these units are much alike, (like the AD100 & AD150) only different motor speed or gearing, you probably already know all of this but I thought it might help.

I did the same thing about a month ago. I called the manuafacturer and told them that what happened. They were very nice and offered my money back but I kept it thinking that I may modify it later to fit. If any truck needed one of these things installed, it would be a truck with the added weight of a plow.One would think that the company that sells these things would print a warning regarding plow equipped trucks.