JAG1

Mine weights 2275, about the most you would ever want on a SRW truck. Your lucky to find that camper since I've seen some failures with BF and Northern Lite. Notice the aluminum plates on the side of mine in the Pick above? That is because the fiberglass went loose and bulged two bubbles on each side from the weight of the cab over. The two plates on either side squeezes them back in. Had to place an oak wall inside for backing to squeeze them in. Looks nice anyhow. Good thing is, it never showed up for 14 years

Mine is a Northern Lite sort of in the same family being that its fiberglass clam shell construction like BigFoot. Pre 1996 BF's were built better.

We did for the eclipse camp. Will jump back on later... have an appt to go to.

Set old pump alongside new pump on the bench and turn the shaft till it matches the old pumps key way location. If it's at 11;45 or straight up 12 noon,..... just get them to be the same, exact as you can with your eyes studying its position. Its easy to turn with your hand. Next paint the front of the key way white or yellow so you can see it from the front going in with the mirror. (NOTE)...While old pump was being removed the key was loose on mine, but had the pencil magnet ready, just in case, before I bumped it and lost it. It raced toward the magnet real quick and was a relief to get that. Very handy to have the pencil magnet near for each nut while removing during the whole process too. Make sure the key is in tight on the new pump from the rebuilder. You shouldn't be able to lift it out by hand and there is a small arrow on the key to indicate the correct orientation of the key. You may need a magnifying glass to see the arrow. That arrow has to point the right way. I'm sorry I Cannot remember which way now that it has to point. Another trick is to take a screwdriver pointed at the end of the pump shaft when removing or replacing the nut and washer. This way if you do drop them they will stay on the screwdriver and not be lost in the gear case. Mike is right.... if he can teach me how anyone can do it. Best your first time to have no distractions. Be very deliberate each step of the way no short cuts and no hurrying is important.

Annetts' Mono Viilage 14 miles East of Bridgeport, always before school gets out and always after schools back in session. I hope this fall our trip for October will be the later part of October. Cool nites and nice days. Trying to talk IBMobile into this as we speak.

A couple of us members meet up in May and again in October for a for coffee, campfire and b.s.ing for a few days each trip. All members are welcome. In the eastern Sierra Mts., its a nice place with showers. All members welcome.

Oreilly's sells the Ph test strips that also test for freezing point and level of additive protection. They're pretty cool because if you don't use them before the exiration date Oreilly's replaces them for free.

Forgive me...around here we all belong to Dripleys' tape peckers union.

He installed it in my truck and its great. Two thumbs up for sure. When get used to it and I drive the other truck without, it feels like something is wrong like a slushy POS. Welcome to the forum.

The hardest part is scoring and peeling the gob of electrical tape next to the VP without damaging any of the wires. You have to be careful not to go crazy and hurt any wiring in there. It takes some doin, but thats what you have to in order to get the B+ #4 wire free. You can cut that wire out of your way cutting it off either side of the gob of tape because the 2 lengths left are still plenty. I makes it a little easier not having that wire in the way.

I did both my trucks and want to say if funds are tight, you can get plenty enough high quality #4 copper wire for two items by reusing the B+ wire you are removing. (1)Enough to do the new location of the charge wire from the alternator to the passenger battery positive post. (2) still plenty to go from the driver side battery to complete the new ground on the back of the gear case. Save the terminals on the ends especially the one that fits on the alternator stud. The wire is copper even though it looks silver colored. That is because it is tinned copper wire. Tinned with solder coating. It is also braided wire which makes it even still, a higher quality cable/ wire.

Mopar1973Man, is it possible it could also be a worn or intermittent throttle position sensor?

Are you confusing a Bosch injection pump with the lift pump? They are two separate parts on the fuel system. The lift pump keeps the injection pump fed. Sometimes called the fuel transfer pump, it can go out, but the truck still runs because the injection pump can pull enough fuel on its own, This eventually kills the injection pump by starvation, not having enough fuel pressure to lube and keep it cool. Any fuel pressure under 14 p.s.i causes an accelerated wear or damage to the injection pump. First item is to get a fuel pressure gauge and a 1/2 inch fuel line kit with a good lift pump. BTW, Welcome to the forum.... all great folks around these parts

I know little about DAP. I was explaining how I got mine from Pacific Fuel Injection and just wanted you to know they are the same owners of Industrial Fuel Injection.

Yes they are a Bosch approved rebuilder. They are the same company as Industrial Fuel Injection. They have a facility with the clean rooms for no dust etc.

Bought my VP44 from Pacific Fuel Injection in Portland, Oregon. No sales tax and cost $1150.00 with core exchange. Good people down there.

. Mark, We are all hoping you find the problem and that you become a long time member of our forum. The articles section is an area that will help you enormously as it sounds like your fuel system needs a lot of changes with right lift pump, pressure gauge, bigger fuel lines etc. Not to mention the electrical upgrades we all have recently discovered by reading W-Ts' articles on grounding issues. Mopar1973 man has helped loads of people around here getting us all on the right track with our second gens.

Yes because the injection pump can still draw fuel from the tank and keep running , but your causing death to your injection pump by starving it. It needs a minimum of 14 all the time to stay cool and get lubrication. Thats why important to have a fuel pressure gauge and shut it down if too low. If the lift pump shows no fuel pressure who knows if it is causing an electrical overload affecting the rest of the sensors in the system or if it has failed mechanically. I mentioned grounds to help batteries to absorb A/C ripple that may affect the system. Correct me if I'm wrong here.

Pretty cool your going to do it yourself. I'm struggling with bad shoulders, but refuse to let it stop me. Welcome to the forum.

Way I understand it..... it just a supply of motivation that lacking. Not surprised with the amount of traveling each week.

I don't have any idea what lift pump brand that is. It could be drawing too much juice thru the ECM. In all brands the lift pump power needs to come off the battery thereby getting the damaging electrical load off the ECM. This is done thru a relay in which the ECM lift pump connection becomes only the trigger for a relay to connect to the battery.

Usually I have no help for that. It would be better to have someone starting it at the same time. I have also used an air hose but difficult to keep the air in there with a rag or piece of foam. Other time I suspected dirt was clogging my draw straw in the tank so I removed a fuel line connection closest to the tank and blew air backwards in the fuel line.

Yes, using my hand to kind of hold air the air in there and pressurized the tank. Do it in short blasts, just a few seconds each time, you don't want to over stress the fuel tank. When you remove the vac hose after just a few seconds you'll be amazed how much pressure comes blowing out the filler neck. You'll see it doesn't take a whole lot.

Out of desperation with a difficult prime, on one occasion I reversed the hose on a shop vac and blew air down in the fuel tank fill neck. You don't need to do it for long... just short blasts of air and I pressurized fuel all the way to the engine and it started just fine. I also found a leak that way on another occasion. You'll get it to run this way if the VP is good but you better have fuel pressure showing on a gauge to make sure your lift pump is working or your killing the VP. BTW, during the time you've been trying to get this truck going, even when just bumping the starter, your fuel pressure gauge should be showing at least14-19 fuel pressure.