JAG1

It's as if they build it for the dealer service shops, letting the dealer get their hands on them. I've seen where they seem to only care about making a deal on a new one for you. Just don't trade in till Michael Nelson does......

I have to wonder if getting a newer 4th gen CTD, because of all it's advancements, would you be setting yourself up to have to trade in the truck sooner than a less advanced truck!? Anyway it seems that trouble shooting problems become more difficult on a more complex/ advanced rig.

Nice place you have. Is there good fishing in the lake?

I think they will too . While parking next to all the newer CTD's (they all seem to congregate in this one place I go) out of all,... the second gen looks the best. IMHO.

That's what happened when Dripley tried wiring up his hood ornament to have open wings at 60.

I think the older we get the more important, for staying young, that we learn things and stay interested. W-T has woke me up from long sleep and know how dormant I was before.

The pump should run for 20 seconds if you just bump the starter but no let the engine start. Thank you Dripley that's another clue for a healthy ECM.

Might be electrical connections. The site owner uses the Wait to Start light on the dash as an indicator for the health of the ECM. Does wait to start lite go on immediately and stay on for a few seconds? If it doesn't that's bad. Side question.....Is the lift pump running off the batteries thru a protection relay to protect the Ecm ?

I'll ride in your truck but I ain't smoking that stuff. That stuff will have your wires crossed in a hurry.

I understand. The first thing that's taking a long time to sink in is the ground, being that 'it goes to ground' and is called negative, actually the electrons are running the other way, from negative battery post to the positive. That one messes with me real good like the earths coordinces got switched somehow. That's OK though.........Cause I've read this thread many times and has helped a lot. But most of all W-T has taken the time to talk with me on my level / used a concrete drill to get things thru my thick head Dripley its most important to ask questions on whats got you baffled. Not asking is not smart because now that W-T has drilled it into my thinking it has become very simple. I can't explain how it feels to have all this discomfort and confusion about it for so long and then all of a sudden like being cured from a disease, be able to understand.

Thanks Bud... appreciate you doing this.

Are you talking about the bolt that holds the power lead terminal to the power distribution box? Sorry, having trouble knowing where this is...

Welcome to the Forum. Keep up the good work on your truck. Oregon has sure changed in recent years. I can't help but wonder if legalizing the gateway drug has something to do with it.

Be careful your dealing with enough amps to melt your tools and wiring if you don't think about what you are doing.

There is ......always will be just one Dripley in this world, Thank God

I got all Dave's forming an alliance now I like what W-T has presented. The way he writes his post is excellent, educational, wakes up even the foggiest morning. I'm listening... perhaps a good example, my headlights were not as bright as should be so even though the ground under the driver side kick panel still looked new, I took it apart sanded the mating surfaces. Interesting that under that kick panel is a painted surface and a crome plated ground terminal, I cleaned/ sanded everything in spite of the new look and the crome. It made a huge difference in my headlights. I was surprised.

ME DRIPLEY

Grid heaters alternator

Probably means that I'm just big big trouble maker around here

I know... it's amazing how parts get more costly and at the same time made with lesser quality. I don't mean to contradict Michael Nelson .... I just learned these things recently and am excited how much my understanding has increased. Posting about it helps me put down what I've learned and to share

Like I said both my trucks grids have very low Ohms resistance. The 94,000 mile grids show .3 ohms and the 200,000 mile truck shows the same on the Fluke meter. This indicates little deterioration of the grids. A lot has to do with the high amp draw of healthy grids (190 amps) and the starter placing a big momentary load on the batteries, trying to recharge and keeping up with the high amp load, that little alternator is getting hot and hammered. Combine that with less expensive alternator rebuild parts, improper alternator ground, an aging electrical system and OEM wiring .... Well then you have it. With two trucks I'm best off not using grids and plug in the block heater when needed. Thanks to W-T my understanding has got me well grounded. further explaining how electrolisys (sp) sets itself up on a ground connection and accelerates the deterioration rate. It is made worse by moisture, unlike metals and trying to squeeze all those electrons thru a tiny portion of once was a good ground or easier electron pathway.

My Grids on both trucks show almost zero Ohms resistance. They are an 01 and an 02 truck. One has 201,000 miles and the other has 94,000 miles. Both show exactly the same resistance value with the Fluke. Could it be deterioration of the overall electrical system with more cheaply made rebuild parts inside the alternator? W-T taught me quite a bit on the phone..... forgive me as its all his fault, LOL, but when you do use the grids your just hammering the snot out of that little alternator. Grids drawing 190 amps X 14 volts = 2660 watts. Like he says that's a hell of a lot of welder... enough to turn my framing hammer into a liquid. Then add whatever else is being used from starter, lift pump, dash lights etc.

I hope someone chimes in on that ticking sound as I have read it can be a sign of a bad injector. But then I think you have the kind of, not to worry kind of miles on that truck.

Talking with W-T today he said you don't because the grids run directly off the battery.