CUMMINSDIESELPWR

thanks man!

http://www.drive2.ru/l/288230376152567844/#post

i guess one would be inclined to take voltage readings from the pins on a working vp44 and see what the load is, if possible...

even the russians have the issue, check this out... http://forum.opelclub-by.com/index.php?showtopic=20908&mode=linearplus look at the nice close ups they took, the wire lead is melted into a pool and the transistor is deformed... i think they took the pic from elsewhere. but still that thing is getting a high heat load from something to melt wire leads.

excuse my ignorance, im usually really good at acronyms but whats does PSG stand for Pump S? G?

+1 for larry B!

im quite enjoying my mechanical pump. pressure goes up with the RPM'S. Just make sure everything is clear bypass valve wise.

yeah i chained mine with 2 chains... still wanted to slip

when the pump went out, i didnt even know about this site and it had no gauges to determine. it had the stock POS LP on it so im sure it was low.

i had to replace my vp around 170k iirc. good cold start but no hot start

those transistors can get obviously so hot that they desolder the connections on their own with how they are arranged (wire soldered directly to face of thermal load) the replacement wont do that as easily as they are tapped with a prong and the thermal load will transmit through the backside into the housing.

i found it easier to pull them as one piece, be warned it is a off balance heavy chunk of metal!

when mine fails next ill do this replacement, im very good with electronics and micro soldering

those transistors look like they are being thermally disentegrated and failing. possibly incorrect load handling rating for the stock ones?

when i replaced the clutch on my 6spd i did the easy way and dropped the tranny xcase in one piece. i replaced the all clutch internals with new, throw out arm/bearing/pivot ball/pivot ball clip and lubed the input shaft lightly and the groove inside the bearing <---- mandatory. i replaced the rear main while i was in there. <---- take your time on this. tossed it all back together and had zero issues since. i used a valair clutch single disk with pressure plate and had the flywheel resurfaced as it was in great shape. took me and a friend a day to do it

hey everyone, sry for the late response (im on the road traveling still) lol i had no white/black smoke out the exhaust but a bit of blue/white haze out the vent. the pyro is pre turbo on the header reading the rear cylinders. the edge was on setting 2x2 and i was pulling up similar grades with no issues along the way. i could have cracked a piston as well with the excessive blowby and the heavy loud knock is happening even at idle. it wont be till oct/nov before i get to it. I do know its something in the engine, i do have loss of power, bubbly oil on the stick (which was still full. I will troubleshoot from the top down before ripping it apart. i will keep everyone posted. for now lets not speculate but rather give possibilities of what to check.

yeah i wasnt paying attention for 30sec and it cost me an engine

oh i got it towed home yesterday, thank you for the offer sir. i was about 5 miles west of elk mtn exit where the conoco is. it was the climb just before that, where it happened.

will do

yeah first the head comes off to see what happened then check the cylinder if that is the case

yeah 30 second lapse of judgement cost me an engine... but on the bright side i get to do all needed maintenance on everything!!! hahaha

if this is in the wrong category go ahead and move it admins

Hello everyone, long time no talk. Life has been busy and health has been bleh... Long story short i was coming back from utah for a friends wedding and he was moving as well. I towed the uhaul trailer 6'x12' densly packed and very very heavy. Had no problems going through the mountains on HWY 80 EB till about 80 mi from lariamie WY. I was heading up a very long grade and towards the top something bad happened. Here are the stats of when it happened speed 70 gear 6 EGT under 1250 (no more than 60 seconds@1250, i saw it and turned the cruise off and throttled down) boost around 20psi rpm appx 1800~ cant remember exactly but was below 2000 oil psi normal ~65 fuel psi 18-20 temp rose from normal 180F to appx 200F when i powered down (within the white brackets) What happened was a knock appeared and progressed to a loud knock quickly. I unloaded the engine and babied it to the crest which was less than half mile. Pulled over and the knock rose to a certain level and stayed there, excess blowby is observed and nothing else abnormal aside from the knock. I havent torn into the engine but i am presuming either a cracked/melted piston or a conrod bearing went to hell or both. I have my backup vehicle that ill be using for my trip and when i get back ill tear the engine apart. Things i did learn from this, My RPM's were too low, egts were too high and in too high of a gear pushing too hard too long. Fresh oil/filter air filter done before trip 3 weeks ago. zero issues aside from a cam sensor that gets fussy here and there. (was going to replace it when i got back this week as its bolt is stripped...) Anyone have any thoughts or questions?

you will enjoy the 6spd