CUMMINSDIESELPWR

single this is what i bought below, uses stock flywheel (turned of course) NMU70279-06 $756.33 This is not a Dual Disc Clutch. Picture is showing both sides of disc. 13.00" x 1.375" Performance Replacement Ceramic / Kevlar Buttons HD Spring Hub Rated @ 500HP / 1000 ft lbs Torque 3400# Pressure Plate Kit includes: Pressure Plate, Clutch Disc, Release Bearing, Pilot Bearing and Alignment Tool. http://www.valairinc.com/performance/24nv5600.html

when i got the new valair, i ordered a new throw out arm, bearing, pivot ball, spring and clip. All the clutch internals are new for mine when i replaced the clutch. total was about $1000 for everything (also got a rear main and replaced it, i installed correct as i had zero leaks when i took engine out for rebuild)

depends on if it will tow or just be a daily driver. I spent the $ on a valair clutch and it holds power just fine, touch grabby till broken in but i like it.

lower gasket kit arrived yaaay, doing inventory now

i need to replace the valve seals since everything is apart., it wasnt stripped down, it was boiled and cleaned though and leak tested.

it wast fully disassembled, he wanted it together to test valve seal and its good

so good news, machine shop said the crank polished perfect so .STD bearings will be ordered and the head only needed .004 removed to true it up so i should still be able to use a stock head gasket. my valve tool came in from cumminsperformanceparts.com for $45 just need to order bearings and start assembly when they arrive

have you tested for AC noise?

im more concerned about dripping on others driveways lol

ill be replacing my seals, i got cummins oem seals and will knock em out when the machinist is done. i bought the tool for the job too

i glued mine to the point of the threaded downtube on the back of the engine. makes for removal easy to unscrew the downpipe and work on things. never had an issue. i am going to work on integrating a plastic catch bottle onto it so my truck stays clean

as does the cylinder pressure

its not a washer, it came off a cast aluminum something and it was a half tab that a bolt held onto like a half hole cut onto a plate edge and a bolt held half of something and half of this... but its not from the engine it is pot aluminum (cast) its very light and non ferrous i do have the oil, and the stuff in the pan ill be filtering the oil soon. this i think was already in the filter when i installed it, the pump is in top shape and no signs of foreign intrusion. Taking everything apart i didnt see anything missing or half washers... I think i got a junk filter with sh!t in it. inspect your filters before installation and shake them out i guess no more purolator pure ones for me.

so after more parts cleaning i got to the oil cooler. here is when it got weird. i found wedged at the bottom of the input hole of the oil cooler a chunk of metal. pried it out and inspected. it looks like a cast piece of aluminum that let go from something and i think it was in the oil filter feed side to where it got blown into the cooler... i have no clue what it is or how it got in there

lol nah, i realized what i did and it was my fault. not paying attention and allowed the motor to lug in 6th going uphill with a load. first the bearings started making metal which plugged #6 cooler jet combined with high egt led to #6 piston almost melting. lesson learned... dont lug the engine, keep rpm's high egts low and lower speed while towing up grades

Best of your knowledge, have you ever had antifreeze in your oil? NO Were all the bearings std. Cummins? If not, someone else been in there... YES upon disassembly, did you notice any other signs of this engine being apart before? Usually, RTV in odd places is a giveaway... wrench marks, etc IT WAS A VIRGIN ENGINE Has this truck been subjected to extremely steep operating conditions.. ever been upside down? (don't laugh) I'm sitting in one right now! .... has engine been 'killed/stalled' before you had a chance to 'clutch it' YES ON STEEP, WHEELING IN THE MOUNTAINS UP AND DOWN, YES MAYBE ONCE WHILE I OWNED IT ON STALLING. caps not yelling lol

number 6 and i think 4 was and yeah i caught it just before it grenaded itself. i should have been using the right foot instead of the cruise... and downshifted

no sweat man, it was a uhaul 6'x12" dual axle trailer packed very very tight front to back side to side top to bottom. a family of 4 stuff. i was pulling up a long steep grade in cruise control and it was lugging the engine and over temped the pistons. it was my fault.the damage is enough to rebuild, they will check everything out at the shop.

good place

oh good news i do NOT have a 53 block!!! and i dont have to worry bout the KDP issue as the housing has a step inside to keep the pin in place

looks like because i had cruise control on going uphill it started lugging causing the bearing issue and egt went up cooking the piston... http://www.agkits.com/bearing-failure-analysis.aspx

fyi wild and free, the cooling nozzles on a couple had material in them i know #6 did, i had probably about less than 2000 miles on this oil change before failure

the pics i posted look like crap compared to the rest of the bearing which could be reused in an emergency (of which im not) just intruiging that some are trashed and some are perfect

i honestly dont know how well this truck was taken care of before me, ive changed oil and filters around 6-10k miles, only towed twice (before the breakdown) and ive only put about 60,000 miles on since i bought it. im the second owner.

so bottom line, crank will be polished and reused, its in good shape (speedysleeve put on the front main as there is a groove in it). the cam is in good shape and will be reused. the block will be washed and cleaned, decked if needed and new cam bushing placed in it. the head will be cleaned and water tested for valve seal. and while that is being done i get to clean the workshop and all the parts that go back on so it will be a nice happy clean motor when rebuilt. yaaay