CUMMINSDIESELPWR

tnx tom, wasnt sure if it was a resonator or dpf

mine originally died around 160,000 then i found this site. i think mikes died at 56,000? not sure. if it starts cold but hard/no start hot, time to source a new(reman) VP

park nose downhill and see if it repeats. if it doesnt you have a air leak draining the fuel lines. might be time for crossover tube orings (installed dry)

you can shim the bypass valve to hold better pressure. mine increases to about 22 and no matter what i throw at it i dont see it drop.

the first one is either a resonator or a DPF (diesel particulate filter) i removed both and i pass emissions here in colorado. and that toyota is probably not gonna last long btw... i would do a hx, BHAF and larger post turbo exhaust. i did notice faster spool when i installed the bhaf. soon ill be doing a post ex brake pipe and stack that is bigger.

im using wix too, dont want to do cheap ones any more...

correct, the fuel boss pulls from the tank then pushes to the filter and vp.

i have the fuel boss as well, love it! idle about 16-17 psi and 20-21 at speed. the thing i like about it is that it site below fuel tank level (it stays primed) and if i need to prime the system, lines to filter and then vp, (stock lift pump is tough to get primed) i took the belt off the small pulley and primed the dry system after rebuild with a cordless drill (took 10 seconds). I think its worth the money, the more skinny pedal you push the more psi it spits out! and no wires to worry bout, no electrical pump to fail. it has 2 moving pieces and a belt, thats it. Richard is a great owner and helped me out a lot when i was installing.

2 bolts seperate the vacuum pump housing, there is a thin oring between the two and the inner seal on the sleeve and an outer oring on the sleeve. very easy to do. also the gasket to gear housing too

when was the filter changed last? what is the driving fuel pressure? how many miles are on the truck? there isnt much to go off of either, auto or manual transmission? what are the rpms when you floor it. try taking a video of the intrument cluster doing this. im starting to think there is a transmission problem if its an automatic.

oh you bought me a new trackbar kit, thanks! how much was it and where?

heat the flange with a torch first till hot and that will loosen the locktite. junkyard will have flange bolts, rockauto might also.

so when you say no power, what exactly does it not have? and still, putting a chip/puck on an engine that has issues wont fix anything.

before you try to add power with a power puck, find out why it has a lack of power first. check wiring to the cam sensor as well to see if there is a open or short on it..

well when i did mine, it was real easy, depending on how nasty the pump housing is will dictate a gasbath or not to clean it. I cleaned mine in gas as it was nasty and it came out real nice. Putting it back together, gotta make sure it is assembled exactly the same as it was taken apart (obviously lol) driving the seals is an easy task. Mainly the sleeve on the backside where the steering pump inserts into... Drive the seal into the sleeve all the way, put the oring on the outside and use a large socket to drive the sleeve into the housing --->EVENLY<--- first try i didnt evenly drive it in and it was slightly off, and not deep enough into the housing and the pump wouldnt bolt to the vacuum pump. I then placed a socket under the gear and drove the sleeve evenly and further into the housing about a 1/4"-1/2" away from the drive face/key assembly inside the vacuum pump. everything bolted up nicely after that and no leaks. before putting the vacuum pump together, drop a little bit of machine oil in the pump rotor to get it prelubed. there should be instructions that come with the kit, its easy to do, i spent more time cleaning the housing than putting it together. let me know if you have questions

lol

yup perpendicular is good ^^^^^^^ this

mike have you done a vacuum pump before? if not i got a few pointers that i learned on mine tips too

i chased all my leaks down the hard way. rebuild hahaha

that is a nice bumper! you adding a winch to it?

be careful using a pressure washer, the force will flatten out the thin fins and block the rad totally. i use a garden hose with a spray attachment held very close so there is no deflection to bend anything.

when i rebuilt brutus, it took an hour to clean the radiator. i soaked with simple green and used a hose sprayer to force through the fins (without bending them) gotta go straight at the fins and push all the oil and crap out. holy cow there was a bunch of junk in mine... runs great now. also you can use brake cleaner if it hard to get out packed in oil/dirt then hose out. you wanna be able to see through the radiator.

very weird indeed

i upgraded to 1ton steering linkage and brace, took out 90% of slack if not more.

i was thinking of running dual alternators for my winch. warn 16.5k <-- 500A max draw iirc