CUMMINSDIESELPWR

Vehicle Nickname: Randy Date Added To The Garage: 2022-01-15 Garage Link: Randy

my fuel boss doesnt have any issues....

tnx guys, i have in my cart a set of 2 for $30 in amazon

i usually drain water out of fuel with engine running to avoid air in fuel.

hey mike can you send me the info as well? i want to rig a dead switch to the vp too. tnx

at 180,000 miles when i did the clutch i drained and refilled my 5600 with what was required +1qt. no issues.

hey drip what is the donaldson blue p/n for the oil filter? currently im using fleetguard and if donaldson is better ill switch. tnx mang

since you are gonna do major work on the brake system, might as well fluch it good too. i highly recommend getting this as it makes flushing/bleeding a breeze for one person... this specific one works for our trucks https://www.motiveproducts.com/collections/domestic-bleeder-kits/products/chrysler-dodge-mopar-bleeder

the motherboard is probably toast then. if it gets zero power even plugged in its gonna be in the power portion of the mobo or the power connector in the chassis has broken free from the solderings.

also to the motor in the housing charges the battery and/or drives a motor on the crank adding HP

miles im not worried about, its the time the oil goes before changing... 6 years... the oil i just changed had 10k miles which im fine with however 2014 was when it was put in. i may just do it every 3 years then

so i tried searching for this specifically and no luck. Seeing that the last engine oil change was 10k miles ago and 6 years, i dont drive truck that much. Is there a oil additive to put in after a couple years to refresh the additives in the oil that will degrade via time or is this even something to be concerned about? seeing it took 6 years to get 10k on the truck no point in changing oil till 10k (which ive done since i owned it along with filter) seems better to save some money and put in an additive to refresh the oil. rotella t 15-40 is what i use thoughts?

leslie was the other brand i couldnt remember! their horns do sound better

i want these https://hornblasters.com/collections/train-horns/products/airchime-p3-train-horn

ignition issue on the column? have you tried putting the key in run, use a wrench and jumps the poles on the starter to see if its not the starter? if jumping poles on the starter works, its something between the key ignition and starter, possibly a relay?

this is what most people get, ashless 2 stroke oil. i just dump a quart in every fill up. id rather have a bit too much lube than less. gotta keep vp happy

negative pressure for bleeding brakes will pull air past the threads on the bleeders. i use my old raptor 150 for oil extraction on the car. works great. get a power bleeder for brakes, one person job works like a champ and its easy https://www.motiveproducts.com/collections/domestic-bleeder-kits/products/chrysler-dodge-mopar-bleeder

1. fuel pressure gauge 2. exhaust temp gauge 3. aftermarket lift pump ASAP, either electric or mechanical 4. pcv vent mod

what is good flow? for me good flow would be more fuel through the vp back to tank than what is used by the engine. some would say a steady small stream is good flow... not enough fuel through the vp back to the tank is not sufficient to cool the vp.

in the overflow banjo bolt, there is a tiny bypass hole that will flow fuel out of before the pressure builds up enough to crack the sprung ballvalve inside the banjo bolt at 14psi, then flow is even greater. so yes technically you will get flow from the overflow banjo bolt but not anywhere near what the flow iwll be when the ballvalve is open (unless its broken and stuck open)

flow yes to keep cool fuel flowing through, pressure needs to stay above 15 to ensure flow happens, on a stock truck you wont see much pressure drop from fuel going to injectors but on built engines you can see the pressure drop from hammering down and you still need to be above the 15psi to keep the flow going.

those pesky vacuum pumps...

leaky/weak injector. crack each line to find it. move it to one that isnt knocking to verify the problem moved by cracking the line where it moved to. if it doesnt move its further up. if it moves its the injector. i suggest rv275's

possible defective gasket or improper or missed torquing of headbolts? thankfully it didnt get into a cylinder.

52, you are fine. keep driving knowing you have a clean engine :D