CUMMINSDIESELPWR

fuel boss or mechanical pump vote here. bone stock trucks will get the vp44 killed by a weak lift pump. its basically a known fact that you MUST upgrade lift pumps on these trucks, stock or not. mine has rv275's, and a tuner (only for monitoring) and is otherwise "stock". im not in for power, i am in for reliability and longevity. Having a weak lift pump will cost you $1500 in a new vp eventually. another advantage of a mechanical lift pump, you remove the electrical load on the ECM which has also been proven to be killed by having the oem lift pump. (my ECM lift pump circuit is dead) so there are many advantages to mechanical.

i have the valair half ceramic half kevlar, good for more power than my truck can make. south bend is the best to go but i went valair as i had limited funds.

check the ground? and we see no pics fyi

yes please

my truck came with a EX brake, was a farm truck towing things. being second owner i dont tow but i still love the ex brake! pros' i can brake to a crawl without touching the service brakes if they fail (which has happened recently) i can sit back and slap cruise on and ex brake on and let the truck modulate speed on downhills loaded or unloaded. this ensures i have brakes when needed in winter time on snow in 4wd the ex brake doesnt lock tires up but lets them spin and i still have steering but braking as well, saved my arse many times in colorado. (mine being rwd abs only) the ex brake sounds cool. cons... ill get back to you on this when i find one.

coming down the big hill on i70 in colorado from the mountains to denver, i can set the ex brake and cruise to whatever speed i want and it will modulate itself at that speed the whole way down severe grades with no touching of brakes at all if no traffic is stopping me. get an exhaust brake

as long as you are above 15psi at any given time or throttle, you are fine. its the flow to open the overflow banjo that keeps the vp cool. 14 and below there is no flow.

ill get to it when im able but to simply put it, the 2x4 slips into the frame perfectly and is seated as deep as it can go. every seam available from the frame rail to the 2x4 is welded and every bolt hole is plug welded also. (its permanent) But you could bolt it onto the frame if you wanted to, i didnt as i dont want anything stolen nor have weak spots.

i hand built mine, with a warn 16.5ti winch. 1/4"x2x4 framed decked with 1/2 plate for the winch plate,5/8" gussets, welded to the frame. then built a pipe bumper on it with 2" pipe. all hand bent and welded. even tacked the bottom bolts on the winch for theft deterrent

you full stroke a lot of things dont ya mike....

piston is stuck in caliper. either rebuild or buy new.

this happened to me long ago, the bearing seized and walked out of the rubber carrier. took a 40 ton press to get the bearing off the shaft....

you need to do this with front wheel abs systems. rear only abs no need. and the full stroke pump of pedal will work if the bore isnt rusted or corroded, like IBM said do at own risk.

i think there is a minimum rpm for detonation to occur to start, temp relative too. so your symptoms are def the starter as you found. install that lift pump asap but be aware the vp still has a lot of miles on it from the oem tincan lift pump and may still die soon.

i think the OP wasnt clear as to which hard start he was referring to. will the engine crank over but not fire when hot (vp44 failure) or will the engine just not crank over (or very slow cranking) at all when hot (starter failure) we all thought it was the vp44 when you mentioned it but i think clarity on the exact style of no hot start is needed.

replace valve seals while the head is off

19 year old fluid, look at it that way. may need a change and additive

when you pull suction from the bleeder nipples you get air coming in via threads. this is why i always bleed positive pressure from master cylinder. one thing over anything when bleeding hydraulic assisted brakes... DO NOT PUSH THE PEDAL to push fluid through, you may bottom out plunger damaging seals inside and then you get to replace the whole thing. i have one of these, it works perfect and only need 1 person. it is worth the money and super easy to use! https://www.motiveproducts.com/collections/domestic-bleeder-kits/products/chrysler-dodge-mopar-bleeder

sounds like the vp has been murdered by the oem lift pump. when you install the new lift pump set pressure at idle above 15psi. this keeps fuel flowing cooling the vp.

exhaust brakes are awesome! saves the wheel brakes for sure and make downhills while towing a breeze.

im offended by all of this... now where did i put my safe space and my box of hugs...

this stuff? (click 2 stroke tab) https://magna1.com/marine/

#diesellivesmatter

set the pressure higher. idle you want over 14.

i guess i cant read... i read it twice and didnt catch this lol must have been tired. soda can lift pump (oem small lift pump on side of block) ive never heard of a VP causing loss of fuel pressure, my money is on faulty lift pump valving