CUMMINSDIESELPWR

probably been said but you have the dreaded hot no start syndrome on the vp, no codes but no hot start and will cold start. i had same thing happen to me, swapped the vp out and all fixed. but you will need to upgrade the lift pump to one that can handle the task of cooling as well as pressure or you WILL do this again around 100,000 more miles... i recommend the fuel boss mechanical pump, no problems and wont fail like an electric lift pump.

even a slight bit of play gets amplified through the mechanics so that one balljoint could be noticed. how old is the hardware? (trackbar, TRE's, unit bearings etc?)

i run 35" tires and did a lot of rock crawling and trail in colorado thus i needed beefier stuff start from the steering gear make sure its tight on the adjuster and the frame, then the balljoint for the steering linkage (make sure it isnt worn) then the tie rod end joints for play, then jack a tire up and see if the balljoints and or the unit hubs have play. then check the trackbar for play on the frame side balljoint (common) i noticed play in my steering recently and found the unit bearing had failed causing slack. i have also found everything listed above to have been worn and a contributor to slack.

i went with w 3rd gen t setup with no damper... i dont miss the old crap

but it gave the epa a visible tree hugger tool to use against the diesel world that nobody can question. one person rolling coal on a crowd in a youtube vid and the world hates all diesels... as an exampl, same goes for guns, if you question the atf if something is legal now they will change their mind and rule against it making it illegal. basically giving them ammo to use against you.

my exhaust will have plenty of boost....

so far the progress is: all body lines and park brake cables removed. under hood hard lines will get swapped out later (keep the abs stuff from corrosion) brackets and such will get refurbished and painted with rustoleum and coated with reg paint thanks to pepsi71ocean for the SSTUBES suggestion, the kit i got has everything from under the hood to the axles (minus a couple brackets) for now when i get all the parts ordered to put the truck back together only then will i run the lines and button it up then bleed brakes with the power bleeder. its a fairly simple task, just time consuming and with a back that is as messed up as congress it take even longer. but it will be back together.

rolling coal is why we now have epa on everyones *** about deleting stuff....

i was able to refurb the parking brake hardware and it will be serviceable. now to get that damn check to get parts....

haha im glad im getting it, i need it. so far the front end is apart now, im glad i did the antiseize and red rtv to seal it in when installing the unit bearing, been in there for 10 years most in colorado winters and it took 3 light whacks of the BFH and it fell out. spicer HD non-serviceable ujoints still good both sides front axle serviceable balljoints both sides still good serviceable tierod balljoints still good just need to get a couple 12pt HUB to KNUCKLE 14mm bolts as they are "stripped" and dont want to reuse them again, the rest im going to clean up and reuse, they are still good. tomorrow removal of rear brake hardware then on to brake line removal and disassemble front diff to replace the seals ive been holding off for years... (and the cover needs a reseal)

"Mr President, i need a check for Me, Myself, and I. Thanks!" $3600

well this brake job just opened up to a complete brake and bearing overhaul. front driver unit hub is bad, driver rear (original bearing) is kinda crunchy. all bearings front rear will be replaced, all parking brake hardware will be replaced along with parking brake cables. all brake lines and hardware will be replaced (got the sstubes kit in) the rear ubolts and bolt plates (under the axle) will be replaced (rust) drums will be replaced (front discs are good) shoes and pads will be replaced... while im at it im going to replace the front axle seals too... joy im already over $2000 in parts im gonna be stimulating the economy big time come next week...

i cant use mine with 35" tires so if someone needs one i can remove mine and ship it. we can talk prices if interested

my fuel boss idles at around 19-20, increases to about 25-28 (i stretched the spring a bit when i installed) you may have debris in the check ball valve.

shame they never built a filter into the system to be replaced...

thanks for the information everyone, i will be putting together parts when i get the $ to do so and after this pandemic is over with in a few months. thank you so much! i believe this is the one i need. 2001 ex cab long bed 4wd D80 single wheel axle RWABS https://www.sstubes.com/collections/brake-and-hose/products/blh76_complete_brake_line_and_hose_kit

found this site https://fcacommunity.force.com/RAM/s/equipment-listing which gave me this (shortened version) Vehicle Description 2001 DODGE RAM 2500 P/U QUAD CAB Dana M60/248MM Front Axle Shift-on-the-Fly,241HD Transfer Case 3.55 Rear Axle Ratio Dana M80 Rear Axle all i am finding for these kits are for my truck with a dana70 axle... im gonna have to go to the dodge shop to get part numbers

my truck specific is 2001 quad cab, long bed, drum, rear 2wheel antilock (rear axle) single rear wheel so i presume its the dana 80? ive still yet to figure out if my rear is a 80 hybrid or 70. its the HO engine, NV5600 tranny, single wheels i looked at the glovebox code list (barely can read it) front axle DJF 5200 (dana 60 im sure) ratio AMD (i think 3.55?) rear axle DRL and i see an 8000 at the end (dana 80?) ok i took pics and compared them, i do have a dana 80 rear. specs https://www.dieselhub.com/maintenance/dana-80-fluid.html

So if this is wrong section move please. I had a main brake line failure today, thankfully while teaching nephew manual transmission. he was standing on the brake and thankfully caused the fault which would have been very bad had i been at speed. it is the steel main line along driver frame rail leading to the rear brake valve. all rubber lines still look good but im gonna redo ALL brake lines steel and rubber to have a fresh system.

good vid, i can see where the timing happens.

i messed up two balljoint press tools doing mine, i even used heat and dry ice.... still boogered threads on the presses (cheap advance auto rentals) expect a days work to do them on your own... and a lot of cussing

when i replaced my vp, i accidentally bent the bracket and never put it on. that was about 40,000 miles and a engine rebuild ago and no issues. eventually ill get another to install...

i do my oil changes "around" 10k miles. use rotella with new filter. no problems. i dont tow either and at the rate of such low miles i drive it i only have to change every few years lol

im sure they do however ive not ready anything so far about fuel boss and mine has had zero issues since install back in 2010. hope you get it sorted though.